Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Changing AWP Head?
May 6, 2014
I have a 2003 1.8t awp head that needs replacing but can't find one with that exact code of awp! My question is can I just buy another 1.8t head with a different code?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 1.8t awp head that needs replacing but can't find one with that exact code of awp! My question is can I just buy another 1.8t head with a different code?
View 4 RepliesI recently replaced the whole head and head gasket on my 2003 jetta 1.8t and it is still overheating so I have to replace either the thermostat, cooling fans, timing chain, or water pump. I have $700 and they said they can fix it for that. So should I spend my $700 and hopefully the problems go away or should I just try to sell the car as is and try to squeeze as much money out of it as i can?
View 7 RepliesWhat is making this noise? car fired up fine this morning, drove it to work and once i exited the highway, idle started bouncing slightly and it seemed like the car was trying to compensate for something. every once in a while it will jump to 1000 rpm then try to settle but still the idle is choppy. and then there is this noise. Does not seem to the be the belts and to be honest I cant really pinpoint its location i think its loudest under the intake manifold. it sounds like a bad bearing to me but from where? O and I checked codes, nothing accept my regular emissions delete codes. I don't have immediate access to VAG-COM so that's out for the time being. also another detail, if i rev the car the noise does not seem to get any louder in fact it disappears mostly.
View 1 RepliesI did a head rebuild to my 01 jetta vr6 and replaced some valves after the timing chain broke. Once i put the head back on, i realized that the timing on the timing chain gear and the drive pulley was off like so:
How did that happen? Could the gear have slipped on the crankshaft wen the chain broke? Or the pulley slipped somehow? What am i missing?
My car is a 2.0 AEG manual for reference.
So, my alternator died last night and when I changed it this morning, I fired her up and now when I turn my light switch one click I can see my high beam light illuminated on the dash. If I have the switch on any setting, it's illuminated but no lights are on out front except the dtr lights. Turn signals work fine and so do the brake/tail lights. I checked the fuses for both low/high beams but they were fine. I saw someone mention an ignition switch while I was searching but I'd rather get other opinions whether it is that or not.
Edit: My original test drive the car ran fine minus the headlight issue. But upon driving it through the city when I was coming to a stop at a redlight the battery light came back on and it died. It fired right back up and barely made it across the street to a parking lot before it died again. It'll fire up but won't stay on. On my way to an parts store for charging system check.
I'll start by saying that I have a 2004 GTI 1.8t. Picked the car up from a local junkyard around 2 months ago for a grand. They were unsure why it was running rough, so I took a chance and picked it up. Got it back to the house and the timing chain tensioner was shot. Ordered a new one up. Went to a friends house and he noticed it was producing some white smoke from the tail pipe and suggest I take a look into my head gasket. Replaced the head gasket about 2 weeks ago. Got everything buttoned back up and it smoked even worse.
Being my first head gasket change I accepted the fact that I may not have been thorough enough in my replacement and stripped her back down once again. Made sure I was extremely focused and replaced the head gasket again. I just got her back together and she is still smoking.
I know for a fact that coolant is getting into my pistons and causing my spark plugs to foul out. Too much moisture in the cylinder.
So I have a 12v vr6 jetta and I really want a better exhaust with a nice clean and loud growl. My friend has a mk5 with a full Apr exhaust that sounds absolutely amazing and I want it to sound like that and I am willing to change my rear valance to the later mk4 jetta style if needed.
View 3 RepliesI own a 2000 Jetta auto with 200k on it. I have the same problem. It wouldn't change gears till 4000 rpm i scanned it. And got the cods g38 and g68. So I changed both. It was working fine then again same thing it works then stop works. So scanned it again and got same codes changed them again worked fine then stopped working so I took it to vw and they told me same thing same sensors and the wire harness so I changed them again got the parts from VW this time. It was working then stopped. And when I turn on the car and drive my gear box display goes all black for at least 10 min driving then goes back to normal. But sill doesn't change gears. Now not even after 4000 rpm. Ps. When I do it manual 1st gear 2 and changes fine once I put it on drive doesn't not change gears.
View 7 RepliesI know it's just one bulb behind the fan speed control knob. I also know (or was told, rather) that the lighting color is red because of some red plastic doo-dad. What I don't know is whether or not this plastic is red because of a film or coating applied to clear plastic or if the plastic itself is red.
I work at a graphics shop so I've got translucent vinyl film in various shades and tints of blue. If it's a film or coating applied to clear plastic that makes the lighting red, I could probably remove it from the plastic and apply a blue film. I'd really prefer not to take apart the dash to remove the HVAC controls only to find out that I'm stuck with red lighting.
Reprogramming my key for my 1999 mk4 jetta. Recently the battery died on one of my key fobs and the other fob that i have has been dead since i bought the car. i put new batteries in them both now. I have one flip key and the only other key i have is the valet key. How I could re program my fobs?
View 2 RepliesI recently changed my battery and now my auxiliary doesn't work. I have read that it's simply changing a code with program. Vagcom-(VCDS)
View 9 RepliesI'm having some electrical issues with my 04 jetta and have no idea what is wrong. This came up recently after changing the solenoids in my 09A tranny (side note: tranny works now ).
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Got a 02 Jetta 1.8T 5spd auto tiptronic with 100k miles. Having issues with shifting. Trying to determine if its electronic or mechanical. Had a short in solenoid 10 N283 which melted the TCM. Put in a used N283 to see if the trans is still ok mechanically. Plan is if its ok to put new fluids and solenoid pack. What do the experts think does is need a full rebuild or will new electronics do the job?
After putting the used N283 solenoid the trans works but not correct. The problem is in the shifting only. Feels like its out of time. When you start moving from a stopped position from 1st to 2nd the car takes off good but when changing gears it reves and feels like its slipping then it hits hard into 2nd. Then 2nd-3rd is a fast shift and not hard. 3rd-4th slips and revs a little then changes gears 4th-5th is fine. all down shifts are fine. Does not mater if the car is hot or cold its the same.
If I disconnect the MAF 1st to 2nd shifts fine with no problems. 2nd-3rd little rough but not bad. Problem with disconnected MAF when going in Drive at 30-40mph all of a sudden it jumped into 1st gear and felt like I was slamming on the brakes.
With the MAF connected and I shift manually in tiptronic mode each gear runs real good with no slipping at all. But same problem happens when switching gears. I can drive it smooth if i accelerate to 3000 rpm and then left off the gas a little and it shifts fine.. Same with the other gears.
I got a used TCM to rule that out and the problem is close to the same. It tries to shift at lower rpm but still does about the same problem. I did recently had a MAF go out. Put in a new bosch and no change. Did my VCDS scan and only codes I get is "17840 secondary air". I can get operational data on some solenoids but not sure what parameters to look for.
So I changed transmission fluid on my 1.8t GLS because I was having difficulty shifting out of gears on cold starts. It seemed to work fine for a few days and now I'm back to square one, it still doesn't want to shift correctly!
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 Toyota Prius. I bought it last year at a Toyota dealership. No long after having the car, the head light would go off sporadically, but would come back on if I turn the car off and back on. Now the entire right side, both the head light and fog light are out. I have a 2006 Prius. I looked online and apparently this is a known issue. There was even a law suit against Toyota, for not recalling the cars and costing owner's hundreds of dollars in repairs.
I took the car in, last summer while the car was still under warranty, when I had to get the 12V battery replace, and told the tech about the issue with the head light. They found "nothing wrong"The problem kept happening and became more often. Now that both sides are off and won't come on at all, I called the dealership, they want to charge me almost $300 to change the bulb!
I saw videos online that show how to do this in about 5 min (changing the bulb) without having to take the bumper off, which is what the dealer told me they had to to. I know it is a lot of info, just to ask, would it be safe, or how safe would it be to change the bulb my self? I would of course be wearing gloves to make sure I don't touch the bulb.
2005 f150 xlt supercrew. Battery dead overnight. New battery installed, and it was drained after a few days use, then an overnight sit. I hooked up my meter as required to check for an amp draw. 5.87a draw. Disconnected alternator, no change. Started pulling fuses. Fuse #107 Power Door Lock(BSM) pulled drops down to 1.04a. Radio power fuse pulled also, drops to .033a. I have had a problem with the 6 disc changer trying to load, read, eject etc so I will be changing out the head unit. I am stumped as to what to try for the 107 fuse though.
View 14 RepliesI have this noise on my cars head, its like a ticking noise that is coming from the top, more towards the back of the head.
It sounds like a bad lifter sound and gets louder with acceleration.
I have did a complete head overhaul-changed valves-lifters-seals-guides- also did oil pressure test and everything seems fine.
but he noise is still there? vw jetta 3 1.8i
I drive a car I am extremely reliant on. I don't have money to buy a new one and I may be a bit over protective of this car. It is in excellent shape, I bought it with 96K and whoever owned it took good care of it. I changed the battery pretty much right away, and the auto parts store guy said it looked like it was the original battery. So I suspect the timing belt is original too, (along with the clutch, which works great BTW). I don't know anything about cars short of what I have heard on CT, but it seems there is a trend towards having to change the timing belt at 80-90K And I know that a worn out timing belt can have no symptoms and essentially ruin your car if it breaks.
I took my car for the blue plate special, and it has been to the dealer a couple of times for some repairs where they also do the general service and see if they can find something to charge me for and in all cases, my car had nothing they would identify and repair. Fluids are good air filters are good etc. When I took it to the little shop on the corner I got the same report, and when I picked it up I asked, well how does the timing belt look? And he said. I can't tell you, you would have to take it apart to find out. So my questions are, as I do not know if the timing belt has been changed by previous owners. should I just go for it and have someone change the timing belt as part of my regular maintenance plan now, or is there some nifty way to find out if it needs changing without having to spend an arm and a leg?
2003 Jetta station wagon, disc brakes all around.
Recently changed all 4 pads + the rear rotors. about 2 weeks after this the car started making a horrible noise from the rear driver side wheel- like the tires were dragging metal.
We took off the wheel last night, replaced the caliper, and discovered one caliper bolt was missing. We think this caused the caliper to misplace itself and start riding the rotor. The caliper was also in pretty bad shape so we went ahead and replaced it because we had already bought the part.
Anyway, we put everything together, drove it last night a short distance, everything was fine.
Today after driving apx. 25 miles since the replacement, the car has started whistling. I'm not sure where the noise is coming from, but it only happens at higher speeds, and I don't know if turning affects it but it happens going straight. It is a cyclical type of sound and goes away when braking.
Note: when replacing the caliper, my dad did not use the little metal brackets because we couldn't figure out how to place them and didn't think we needed them. Would that cause this noise? Is that dangerous to do?
UPDATE: I've mislead you all! Upon further inspection the whistling noise is coming from the serpentine belt area. I had assumed that it was coming from the wheel because we had JUST messed with it, but I was wrong. Now I'm wondering what's going on with the belt!
So i just recently purchased this car and about two weeks in I CEL turns on and the car just doesn't seem to drive like it did when i first brought it home. I don't know much about forced induction cars but the from watching the boost gauge, it seems to flutter when accelerating and just doesn't pick up like it should i feel. First thing I could think of is a boost leak but like I said, don't know anything about these cars.
View 3 RepliesI recently bought my first VW 1.9TDI and noticed that the car shakes between 75-85km/h, both when I drive at those speeds, accelerate and or even brake during that region. I know the car needs an alignment which I have booked in when I change to my winter tires tomorrow, but could this issue be something else like a bent rim? Or what else could this issue be coming from during those speeds.
View 6 Replies