Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - CEL Comes On And Car Remains Stuck In 2nd Shift For 5 - 10 Minutes
Nov 22, 2014
I bought a 2003 Jetta automatic w/ triptronic.
When the engine is cold in the morning(when i go to work) engine light(CEL) comes on and the car remains stuck in 2nd shift for 5-10 min(happens 1-2 times a week).
When I get back from work car goes well and the CEL is off.
I went to a shop and I found 4 codes:
00300- transmission fluid temperature sensor(G93). not a plausible signal-intermittent
00526- brake light switch- F short with power-intermittent
00652- gear monitoring not a plausible signal- intermittent
01045-tiptronic switch (F189) not a plausible signal- intermittent
I was thinking that it's possibly a transmission control module gone bad, but I'm not sure.
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I am trying to troubleshoot an overheating problem so that I may fix it myself. Not sure if it's thermostat, sensor, or a blockage.
'04 Jetta tdi with about 200k miles. Temp sticks at 190 usually for about ten minutes then starts to climb, varying between the 207-225F mark. Hasn't gone any higher, even in high 90sF ambient temps after 30mins driving. Holds fluid fine, pink G12 mix, and no bubbles or milky appearance to oil dipstick. Recently installed new AC compressor, txv and dryer so I imagine I can tackle thermostat or sensor if need be. Where to start?
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My 03 Jetta is having transmission trouble. It will shift from 1st to 2nd but wont shift to 3rd. It is an automatic 2.0.
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I have a VW 2001 1.8 T. I have had a problem with the ASR light coming on and staying on for more than a year. It is horrible. They can't figure out the problem. I can't tell you how many things they've tried to fix this.
My ASR light comes on while driving on DRY pavement and stays on. My car's performance decreases greatly. I have a case with 800-VW and my local VW has been trying to fix this for a year. The MAF (mass air flow) is still failing, but since it has already been replaced TWICE, they won't replace it again. We got an extended warranty on the MAF as you might recall.
I am at a loss.. they've replaced the air filter, cleaned the throttle body, replaced the ASR switch, they've redone all the ground connections, and replaced the spark plugs. NOTHING IS WORKING. MY ASR LIGHT STILL COMES ON 4 DAYS/ WEEK.
Right now, my VW has their techline involved and even they don't know what to do. I've payed for several UNNEEDED repairs for my car and the ASR light still comes on.
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My car's front bumper got ripped off this week , parking spots on the grass pulled it off) Ever since then, I've been having weird ass issues. After it happened, I zip tied it back together and started to go to town when my car kicked itself into EPC mode, but only when I went on the throttle. If I let off, the EPC light would go off, but the traction control light would stay on (ESP light, whatever). I killed it and realigned the throttle body (I think that's what it is. Where you hold the brake and throttle in for about 30-60 seconds while the key is on but not started then kill it and restart it) and after I did that, it will start and only stay alive for half a second then die. It's started to make a god-awful crackling noise as well in the engine compartment near the Alternator.
[URL]....
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I've had my 03 VR6 6-speed for 12 years. It's been a second car for the last 5 or so, but regularly used. Friday morning the car got stuck in 3rd gear. The stick will only move from neutral position and down towards 4th gear. I've inspected the short shifter under the hood and the bushings under the shift boot. I did not find anything that diesel geek (the short shifter company) had me check for.
I brought the car into a local shop I have never used before (my usual shop closed), and today they called me saying its a transmission issue. I have not given them permission to open anything up. I am going to take the car home for now.
I have had to repair a broken 1-2 gear fork before. And at that time I had the 3-4 gear for replaced as well.
I should also mention, I similar issues on a quick drive i took the car on the night before. I thought it was just me acclimating to the shifter/lower power of the car as I hadn't driven it for a while. The point is, it drove fine afterwards and it drove fine for a 40 minute city drive to work the next morning.
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I just recently bought a 03 Jetta and it doesn't shift until it is warmed up, once warmed up it runs great. I was told it needed a transmission change but when taking it to Aamco they said it needed a valve body. I read that it could be the solenoids that are causing the issue. Should I replace the whole valve body or just the solenoids? What is the main components in the valve body?
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Today I was leaving my buddys house when I got in my car it started fine then I let off the brake and the epc light came on and the gas is stuck wide open unless I have my foot on the brake unplugged the plug that goes to the gas pedal and it was fine but the epc light was still on plugged it back in and the same thnig so i put my gas pedal on my buddy jetta and it worked fine on his car. Its a 1.8t jetta 03 wolfsburg edition 119000miles
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My 03 Gli 24v manual transmission has been acting up lately. First it started to get a little difficult to shift into gears about a week ago. Then tonight i was driving through a parking lot in 2nd, and after i came to a stop i tried to put it back in to first and it would not go into gear. As i was trying to get it into 1st i could tell it was grabbing a little bit and the car was inching forward.
I got it to a parking spot and starting reading about other peoples issues, one i read said they were able to get it to move after pumping the clutch some. After trying that i was able to get it into gear and drive it to my parents. Looked at my brake fluid and its full. Took it for a test drive around the neighborhood and it was shifting fine at first then started getting a little difficult to shift again. I tried taking off in 6th and it stalled. I tried going from 1st around 3k-4k rmps to 6th and it was still driving with very little lugging. My clutch feels and is still stiff, not loose at all. I do have to go all the way to the floor with the clutch before im able to shift
Finally to my questions. Could my clutch be going bad? Could my cables need adjusting? Something I read about a pressure plate maybe?
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Just bought this car yesterday. test drive went fine with no issues. Started driving it home and the check engine light came on ( no big deal i thought car runs great). I go to advance auto and their scanner won't hook up to it. So i start looking at the fuses and everything was good except it was missing the the number 7 fuse ( reverse lights/speedometer sensor), so i replaced the fuse. i get home and i decide to take it down the road one more time and it all went down hill quick. EPC light came on, the car wont shift out of first gear (automatic). so i let it sit over night with the number 7 fuse out and the battery disconnected. CEL never disappeared this morning and its do the same thing. It looks like the MAF was just replaced and the brake light switch looks like the newer green version. Im going to replace the brake light switch this afternoon and i already cleaned the MAF. Another thing that i noticed that is very strange is now the Foot symbol by the shifter has gone out. The one on the dash still is working properly but the one at the shifter does not light up at all now.
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Car specs:
- 2003 VW GTI VR6 24v
- 100,000 miles
- Clutch replaced at about 80,000 miles
A few weeks ago, I noticed a very slight noise coming from my shift boot. The noise wasn't a grinding or clanking noise; it was more of a noise that sounded like keys jingling or coins rattling (the best description I could come up with).
Anyways, it would only occur on acceleration. When the car is in neutral or shifting between gears, there is no noise. It lasts generally for about 3-5 miles, and then goes away. I haven't had any change or problems in shifting.
Not sure if something is loose in my boot, or if the linkage may be off, or if I should maybe change out the gear oil (since the noise goes away after the car is warmed up).
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After the car has sat for awhile 1-2 hours, when I start it back up the engine coolant temp light comes on and remains on for 1-3 minutes. This happens regardless of the ambient temp outside. It can be 40 degrees up to 80 and it will still come on. This started a few months ago, I have drained and flushed the cooling system, and wondering id this may be an indication that my thermostat is faulty and needs to be changed.
2008 Accent 3 door 159K ....
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So i was trying to adjust my freinds shift linkage on his o2j and i got a little ahead of myself and forgot to put the shift tower in the home position before making the adjustment. after i realized you can't shift into second ( either that or 2nd and 4th are extremely close together now and feel like the same gear ). I try to get it in home position even with the cables off ( did this for experimentation) and still wouldn't go into home position...meh. still have all the other gears including reverse .
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I have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
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After running at normal temperature for about 10 minutes, my car starts to overheat. I noticed my radiator fan wasn't running at any speed, but my auxiliary fan was running fine. I checked the thermal switch and that was okay, because the auxiliary A/C fan still worked after jumping, and the big fan didn't. I replaced the fan assembly and now both fans work fine, so I assume that my thermostat is okay (maybe not and I'm missing something?). Even though both fans are running, my car still overheats, but maybe after 15 minutes now as opposed to 10. Water pump seems to be fine because I can see it pumping back into the coolant reservoir, and it doesn't seem to be sputtering or anything. Just replaced coolant recently after flushing with water, so I assume that the radiator isn't clogged. I also recently replaced the oil because it needed it anyway. It is still overheating so now I'm stuck. I can get to work and back because it's only a 5 minute trip and it doesn't have time to overheat, but I don't want to keep driving it obviously.
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Lately I've been hearing a constant click from what seems to be my chains side of the motor. Tensioners and chains were said to be done around 123k. After I've been driving it for a few minutes I hear the click. I thought it was the trans/ throw out berrying but when i push the clutch in and have it in gear i can still hear the click. It is not rapid like a tensioner like a tick tick tick, its like tick......tick......tick, could this be my top end of my block not receiving enough oil? I have a cracked oil pan, doesn't leak that often but i feel as if that is the source of the problem. Also I feel as if i lose power once i hit about 4300-4400 RPMs could that be because of low oil pressure?
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A week ago before I left for h20 my battery light came on, i drove for 10 mins and it went off. I also had a battery test and alternator test at that time and everything showed up ok. I drove 800 miles all good. Last night the battery light came on again, I was far from home so just tried making it back but the car dies on me. Before it died the traction and abs light turned on, the lights dimmed, when I gassed it the lights would get a tiny bit brighter. Also my gauges got stuck at the rpm i was driving at and 70 mph, even though i came to a stop already.
When i tried to gas the car it was backfiring, sometimes i couldn't even give it gas. Only way to start the car was to jump it, then i can drive a little before the car died again.
I drove with my battery box off the highway because highway patrol said i have to and got towed how from there last night. The ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY WERE CHANGED a year and a half ago apx 12000 miles, all oem equipment for the alternator. The serpentine belt and tensioner on top have also been changed and serviced.
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Ok so I started car ran for about 15 min at idle but ran rough a few times then died now wont start. O yea I drove it on sunday and the speedometer and odometer stopped working also.
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My car is idling at 1000 rpm for a few minutes when I start it, why? Just started a few days ago...
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I have been driving a 2003 Chevrolet cavalier and the automatic shift is stuck and can only shift to neutral and drive since Thursday morning. It wont go up to reverse and parking and down to the other 3 shifts.
This first happened last April but somehow with the right grip or pressure was able to get back to all the other shifts. Since then it happened 2-3 times as I can remember and now could be getting worse.
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So I have a 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg Edition, love the car. So here's my problem, whenever I am driving for more then 20-30 minutes my shifting between gears begins to become more and more rough, like whenever I shift from 2nd to 3rd, it directs me to first gear instead of 3rd and I have to kinda force it into 3rd. This only happens when I am driving for a long period of time, why this is happening? and sometimes when I put it in reverse I get a loud crunch noise but I get it into gear...
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