Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Brakes Rubbing After Suspension Job?
Jul 10, 2014
I've got an 03 Jetta TDI 5-speed with 210k. I just replaced tie rod ends, ball joints, struts, shocks, springs, and bushings/bearings on the front.
After I took the car off the jack stands, I tried to reverse and the car is held in place pretty firmly. I gave it a bit of gas and it sounded like the brakes were rubbing. The brakes feel a little soft.
I checked the wheel clearance (I didn't lower the car) and everything looks fine. Did I pinch a brake line or something?
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I just replace my struts, tie rod assemblies along with the wheel bearings on my 2003 MKIV Golf GL. I noticed when turning at low speeds, the is a squeaking noise (rubber against metal). It sounds as if its coming from the shock tower but can't tell. The installation was relatively straight forward.
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How to diagnose this creaking/clunking noise in my 03 Jetta TDI. It's only coming from the passenger side, and I primarily notice it at low speed on relatively uneven roads. I can replicate the noise by pushing up and down on the front passenger side corner.
For context, this started after I just recently replaced my front and rear suspension, plus some steering parts. I replace all four struts with Koni yellows, front CA bushings (with R32/TT), ball joints, tie rod ends, front strut bushings and bearings, and passenger side CV axle. In response to the noise, I also just did the front sway bar bushings, which definitely needed it, but didn't change the noise. I also removed the CV axle and re-greased the inner CV joint--to no avail.
Also, when I have the hood open and push up and down on the front of the car, I can see the cup where the top strut nut goes into will go up and down separate and apart from the body. The driver's side stays in line with the body when I try to the same on that side. Also, that cup is tight on the passenger side, whereas it will spin fairly freely on the drivers side. So, this has lead me to think that perhaps I didn't torque either or both of the top or inner strut nuts on the passenger side.
Here's a (fairly crappy) video of the noise/strut cup .....
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Yesterday while driving, i lost all power steering and power brakes (you would automatically think Booster). I pulled over, popped the hood and fluid was spewing from behind the power steering pump somewhere. I limped the truck home about 20 miles. I checked brake fluid and it was full. checked power steering fluid and it appeared to be empty. Yet when i added fluid it took less than a half quart. I started the vehicle to pressurize the pump and find the leak. Yet the pump never pumped any fluid. (one would thing pump was out) I am baffled as to if the pump went out, why fluid loss? If the booster was out, why do i still have brakes just without power assist? Andif a hose is blown, why such small fluid loss? I dont want to just start replacing parts till it get the right one
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If this was my car or older truck I would know what the deal was. First hill I came down in my recently bought 2003 F250 the pedal pulsed a bit as I tried to slow down...is this the way ABS brakes behave? Never had them on a truck before...she stopped ok but don't know if they are warped or normal ...I'll pull wheels later (not a daily driver)...
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Brake issues 2003 f250 super duty 6.0. Changed master cylinder, drivers side rear brake hose, new pads all around. Pedal is good at times for a few seconds. I've bled them all numerous times truck running or not flushed power steering pump new fluid. Brakes are spongy or go to floor. Do I need a scanner?
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I've changed brakes on tons of front wheel drive cars, and two wheel drive trucks. But NEVER on a 4wheel drive Super Duty. My truck needs new front brakes now!!!! its a 2003 F350 4X4 -58,000 miles. I was just wondering from you all, how hard is it to change brakes on a 4x4 truck? Do I have to remove the Hub or lockouts?
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Here's the deal:
* Drive the truck after it's been sitting a while (overnight, or at least a couple of hours), everything's fine. Good brake pedal feel.
* Drive 10-15 miles, stop-and-go at lights and stop signs, the brake pedal slowly goes from normal to firm, to very firm. Then, no play whatsoever and brakes are dragging bad. Yesterday, they were dragging so bad that I had it pulled into 1st gear with pedal on the floor just to get thru an intersection.
* Get out and check each wheel, all 4 brakes are dragging. I can tell from the heat pouring out of each wheel. And I've verified with infrared thermometer. Also, I've raised the vehicle when this is happening, and all 4 wheels will not turn. So it's definitely all 4 brakes.
At first, I assumed it was seized slide pins. But I've THOROUGHLY cleaned each and every one, and lubed with synthetic caliper grease. When the brakes are feeling normal, I've had my wife pump the brakes while I watched the calipers. Near as I can tell, they slide easily. Again, when my problem happens, it's all 4 wheels SIMULTANEOUSLY. So I've pretty much ruled out slide pins.
The brake pedal itself isn't getting bound by anything. It moves freely and I've lubed each of the pivot points. No problems there.
* When the brakes are dragging, I can crack the bleed screws and some fluid will come out at each wheel, which releases the brake at that wheel and I can then turn each wheel freely. So, there's residual pressure in the lines. I replaced the master cylinder (twice actually). No change in behavior.
BTW: I thoroughly bled the lines after each of the two master cylinder changes. I must've put 60+ ounces of fresh/clean/new fluid into the system so this isn't related to old fluid.
* Next, when the brakes are dragging, I can unscrew the master cylinder about 1/8-inch or so from the booster, and the brakes immediately release. Again, indicating residual pressure in the lines. So, I assume that something funky is going on with the brake booster. Also, when the brakes are dragging, I can pull the vacuum hose from the brake booster. And after a few seconds the brakes release. So I installed a new brake booster (re-manufactured one from NAPA -- they didn't offer a brand new one). No change in behavior.
After swapping the brake booster, I can still pull the vacuum tube when the brakes are dragging and it'll release in just a few seconds. So, it really seems like something is going on with the booster, but I can't figure out what it might be.
It is possible for the brake booster vacuum tube to have TOO MUCH vacuum, thereby causing the brakes to be unknowingly applied? Is there maybe a regulating valve of some kind in the line?
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When I am in reverse sometimes the left rear makes a loud humming sound like the brakes are rubbing or something. What do you think this is???
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Just picked up some VMR V701 18X8.5 with a 45 Offset in Gunmetal. Do I need Spacers to clear the brakes and prevent rubbing for the front and/or rear? If so, how many mm?
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2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T
Every time I press the brake pedal a buzzing sound can be heard. Every single time. Without fail. Moving or parked.
I just had the tranny rebuilt and it's possible something was broken or unplugged. I've done a search on google and can't find anything specific. I'm thinking something to do with ABS. Problem started a week ago when it came back from the rebuild.
I'll try to get a video and post. Was funny at first. Now it's annoying.
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I have a 2001 f150 4x4 5.4 Liter 72000 miles. There is a rubbing sound that is only audible when the brakes are applied. And only when applied with light pressure. The noise will continue intermittently until you come to a complete stop. If the brake is applied aggressively there is no sound at all. I am not sure if it is a brake issue or some thing in the front end that is flexing when slowing down.
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Have a mk4 GTi vr6 with long beaches with sit at an offset of 38. Honestly the offset thing confuses me quite a bit. I'm running 235/17/45 tires. I had my car lowered before the winter and I can only go so low before it starts rubbing. What size spacers i should go with to basically go as low as possible. If not as low as possible, I love a wide rear end so maybe poking in the rear end and lowered in the front for like a rake effect.
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Whenever I let off the gas there's a rubbing/knocking noise under the car, the sound will slow down as the car slows down but as soon as i press the gas pedal it starts again, it also doesn't do it if I am stopped and in neutral and rev the engine not sure what this could be?
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I recently lowered my mk4 golf with coilovers, now the sway bar is rubbing on the right driveshaft axle... could I just get a small diameter driveshaft instead of getting sway bars? My driveshift is about 2 inches wide...
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Had the common problem of ARB rubbing the drive shaft after I lowered an extra 15mm - It didn't rub before I went this extra 15mm. I got adjustable drop links on and they also didn't work. I basically told the garage to sort it out and they put standard drop links back on (not genuine) and also new wishbones because I needed them. Got my car back and the rubbing was even worse. So I raised it back up the 15mm, to where it was before the rubbing started, yet it's still rubbing like crazy. I'm wondering if the new wishbones may be causing this because of new bushings or something and it all being tighter. And also what am I supposed to do? I shouldn't have to buy a whiteline ARB because it wasn't rubbing at this ride height before the wishbones and drop links were changed.
To summarize:
>Lowered car extra 15mm, rubbing started
>Drop links and wishbones changed, rubbing is worse
>Raised back to the point where rubbing started and still rubbing just as badly.
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While switching freeways yesterday and shifting down into 3rd before hitting the exit ramp I heard I a slight clunk, and then this continual noise began. I initially wasn't quite sure if it was my car or the sound of the of the large semi engine braking in front of me so I continued on to the freeway and was able to shift back up to 5th and get to speed.
However, I held back to around 60Mph because the noise started to worry me as I continued to hear it after passing the 18 wheeler semi. I got off at the next exit and noticed that the noise ONLY occurs when the car is decelerating. It happens in every gear as well as neutral; having the clutch in or out doesn't make a difference either.
*When accelerating in any gear, even the slightest bit, the noise disappears.
I've scavenged the forums to find a similar issue but to no avail.
I've uploaded a video that shows the issue occurring. The video is taken from the driver's side wheel, but the sound resonates throughout the front of the car, can't really pinpoint where though.
2002 Jetta 1.8t possible transmission noise
[URL] ....
2002 Jetta 1.8t ... 210k Miles
I've recently replaced the Control arms, outer tie rod ends, ball joints, springs, struts, all for rotors/pads, rear calipers, handbrake cables, timing belt (with pulley kit) water pump, etc. full syn Oil changes every 3k-3.5k miles, Premium petrol only.
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So I've had a low rubbing sound specifically when I'm turning or banking right. I don't want to put much more money into this mk4 because I'm planning on getting a new car in the next 12 months. How do I know which bearing needs replacing?
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I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
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My front left tire is rubbing to the point where I can feel it in the steering wheel slightly slowing the car down. This happens only going over about 40-50 and only when i turn the steering wheel like an inch to the left. To better clarify it doesn't rub while turning left going down a slope.
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I have a 2004 GLI that I just completed the slave cylinder on, after i got everything back together my driver side axle is now rubbing really bad on the sway bar where it connects to the endlinks. What could be wrong?
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