Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - AC Compressor Clutch Won't Engage - Low Voltage?
Apr 25, 2015
I got a 2003 GTI 1.8t and the AC air is blowing warm. With the car on, AC on and fans full blast both rad fans turn on but compressor clutch does not engage. Took it to a shop and the mechanic said the system was full of refrigerant but that the compressor was not getting the proper signal and there was an electrical problem.
I check the power at the compressor and it is reading about 7 volts, which is low correct? That should be getting 12-13 volts correct? I also check the pressure switch over by the passenger side and it was getting 13v. What to check next to start ruling out causes? Any quick way to determine whether this is electrical or a compressor issue? I am limited in my abilities as far as electrical work goes.
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Compressor does not engage, and my fans do not come on when I turn on the A/C. They do come on low speed when I jumper pins 1 and 2 on the temp switch plug, but they do not come on high speed when I jumper pins 2 and 3.
I have replaced the FCM with a new one, as well as a guaranteed working used one; neither one changed anything. I assumed right away that it was the fcm because my original one has a hole eaten through it from battery acid.
Compressor clutch ohms out within spec, and it will engage if jumpered.
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I have a 2003 2.8 GLI and my compressor clutch will not engaged i provided the clutch with a direct power and ground from the battery and it engaged. i also went to the junk yard and got a couple of Fan Control Module ($4 each) and it still does not engaged.
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I am trying to figure out why my AC is not working. Both fans are coming on and the AC button is light up but it is not blowing cold. The charge was checked and it has a good charge. The compressor appears to not be engaging. I checked for power at the electrical connector for the AC compressor and my voltmeter is showing voltage between 3.1-8.3 volts. It jumps around between that voltage every few seconds. The fuses have all been checked and are in not broken. What else should I be checking?
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I have an 02' 2.0 Jetta Wagon, and the A/C is having some issues. Since I know close to nothing about A/C systems, I took it in to a few places to have it looked at. I've had the whole system Evac'd and recharged, and have had the low pressure fitting replaced (apparently there was a slight leak there), and the system is still not working.
The A/C worked fine when I first purchased the car a few months ago. Shortly after my 800 mile trek from Oregon, back to home, the A/C started to only work intermittently. The compressor would engage, then disengage, repeat...It seemed like a bad idea to keep trying to use it in its sad state so I stopped using it altogether. As I said, I had the system emptied and recharged, but it still only works intermittently. It sort of follows a pattern where upon start up it works longer, and switches on and off at shorter intervals, until it doesn't engage at all.
There are no strange noises from the compressor, and when it was hooked up to the machine, it proved to be performing its function well.
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I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t and the A/c doesn't work. I took a look and I know that the clutch/compressor does not engage. also, the rad fans do not turn on when I have the AC on in the car. all I get is hot air. I tested the line and there is no freon in them whatsoever. which is why the compressor is off. however, I can't add any freon without it working. I checked the fuses on the side of my dash and on top of the battery as they seem to be ok. Also, I was told that I just need to replace the compressor with a new one and I should be good to go. Is this true? It will be an easy fix if it is.
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03 Jetta 1.8T AC is giving me fits. When the compressor comes on the AC is nice and cold. Problem is that it isn't on very much. Today was a good example. No AC for about the first 30 min drive to get an oil change (local driving). Next 40 min highway drive, AC only got cold for the last 20 minutes and then started to warm up before I got to work. Drove to auto parts place at lunch, AC cold from start to finish. No AC all the way back to work.
So, this evening I started the car with the hood up and watched. Compressor wouldn't engage. Pushed the AC button a couple of times and clutch engages. Compressor stayed on for 7 minutes and ice cold air. Clutch then disengaged and immediately both fans went to high speed for about 5 minutes with warm air out the vents.
Fans cycled back to low speed and compressor clutch engaged again for about 2 minutes this time. Fans to high speed again for 3 minutes, then compressor engaged for only a minute. Each time the compressor shut down, both fans would go to high revs. The minute they would go to low speed, the compressor clutch would engage and I'd get nice cold air..
Just had the expansion valve replaced and r134a charged by and AC shop last week. I have had the on/off AC problem for months and then could not get the compressor to engage at all for about one month. Of course, just as I was getting to the shop, it started blowing cold air.
Not sure whether I'm looking at an electrical problem or what. Just seems odd that both fans suddenly speed up and slow down and the compressor engages only on low speed.
The only other odd thing I've noticed is that cold or hot, as soon as I turn the ignition on (engine off), one fan continually starts cycling on and off. It does that continuously. I've checked the fuses on top of the battery and they all look fine. No appreciable drop in RPMs when the compressor engages. Fan control module?
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My AC doesn't work right now, however, sometimes it works. It's very random, it doesn't matter if its hot outside or if its cool.
What happens is my AC clutch doesn't engage. when I turn ac on, it raises the idle for a second, and as soon as it does that, my ac compressor gets around 12 volts for less than a second, and the idle drops again. it does that in a loop.
My fans work fine, both high and low speeds, everything else works, all the fuses are good. I changed the pressure switch, didn't fix the problem. I also checked the ac coil and clutch. everything clicks and works. ground on the compressor is good.
Other odd thing - positive wire on the compressor constantly getting around 3 volts. What can it be and what else do i need to check?
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AC went out last week, was working great earlier that day. Checked under the hood and the clutch isn't engaging. Noticed an RPM spike every four seconds or so at idle when the AC was on. Checked voltage coming off the wires that go to the clutch and saw a voltage spike from essentially nothing to 9-12V which occurred in sync with the RPM spike. I poked a screw driver in the high pressure port and got a nice blast of coolant so I figured refrigerant isn't the issue.
Fuses are all good, in car and on battery. Replaced the fan control module and now there's no RPM spike and I get a constant 12v with the AC on at the clutch wire, but it still doesn't engage.
It's a 2000 Jetta 2.0 auto.
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Golf 2.0 ... Finding the location of the AC Clutch/Compressor relay location. On the TDI its behind the the dash and I looked on mine and it doesn't seem to be the same. I've seen a thread where some said it was under the battery? Where it is and what number will be stamped on it. Another thread said it should be behind the dash and number 385 or 358, I looked and I don't have those numbers back there.
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I have an issue with my 2003 golf 2.0 ac I've done everything that I cloud thing of to check but I still have this issue so here it is. The air coming out of the vents is warm, compressor Clush turn on but doesn't kick off. I hook up ac gauges and it reads 70 on low side and 155 on high side with an ambient temperature of 80. The system has freon, I check fans and they are on when compressor kicks in all relays and fuses are fine.
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I had to replace one of my Ac lines. The skinnier one.I have never seen the air work in this car. That line was broke since I have owned it.
I went to try and fill it today with r134. I have as much pressure on the low side as I can put in. (55 says the cheap gauge) But when I turn the car on the clutch does not engage to cycle the freon so no cold air. What I know,The fans do not turn on when Ac button pushes.The connector to the compressor only read 4v. I cannot get any number on the high pressure switch connector. (3 pin)
I don't know if it just doesn't turn on because nothing in the high side? Is there a way to bypass? I read jumping the switch is a bad idea.
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So I just bought a 2000 MK4 Jetta for a $1000, its been ok, replaced the breaks, rear calipers, swapped in new headlight socket, swapped in amber tails, new plug wires, new drive belt, water pump/ timing belt all new.
Car has 173,xxx and i drive in pretty bad traffic daily, there are times when i am going to accelerate and between 2-3k RPM it feels like the clutch disengages then re-engages for a split second. then continues to drive normal, happens 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Is this the clutch slipping? will it be fixed if i were to order a new clutch kit? I am on a budget and do all my own work, so i can't afford to buy a new clutch kit and have this not fix the problem.
Also, the car gets a little wiley on the free way, feels like its the struts, but the steering wheel vibrates a bit, i just found out the PO had different rims on the car before. So the tires might need to be balanced. I JUST Ordered new Racelands hopefully to stop the creaking/bounciness of the suspension. How to get this steering in check.
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99 Jetta, installed a new AC compressor a month ago, has been working great, not clutch will engage for a few moments, then turn off for a minute, then engage again. Seems, like there is Freon in there by the gauge on the low side.
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I found out that the bearing in the compressor clutch is the one making my car sound like crap... but I have been looking for it and everywhere I call they only sell the whole compressor that is expensive. I was thinking on get the clutch out and lube the bearing up or something but I don't know if I have to discharge the freon for doing it ... How to remove the AC clutch ?? Its an mk4 btw....
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My daughter has a 2003 Saturn Vue 2.2 and it seems that the clutch if froze up... I have checked Freon level with a gauge that I use to top of Freon and seems ok... the vehicle has 170,000 thousand miles... are these compressors prone to failure and is there a "Quick Fix" without replacing compressor, orphis tube and dryer?
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Just picked up a 2004 MK4 Jetta GLS 2.0 for really cheap.
As the title reads I have found some issues with the car after giving it a once over.
Dash/Radio lights - My Dimmer Switch is not getting power. I was wondering what the next step would be. I checked all the fuses and there is no issue.
Cooling Fan - I read about testing the plug and a CFM. Which should be done first?
A/C - I changed Electrical-Switch & Relay: A/C Clutch Switch and it did not fix the issue.
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if the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
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So clutch doesn't engage and compressor is not running. I have 12-13v at the low pressure switch and the same at the high. When I jump the low pressure I don't get any voltage at all at the plug that controls the relay for the clutch.
Where I'm confused is:
Is this a low pressure problem - gauge is reading 60psi on the accumulator
Or
Is this electrical somewhere?
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I just picked up a '94 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I can't figure out what ails the AC. It appears that there should be enough refrigerant (according to my recharge kit), but the compressor clutch will not engage. I have checked the fuses, and all are fine. All other HVAC functions are normal. Is there a way to test the compressor?
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The A/C does not blow cold. The Compressor clutch does kick on and stay on The passenger side fan kicks on only (I think the driver side is toast but i need to test it to confirm) The system has 45psi on the low side
I did not check the high side as I don't have a gauge for it but will get one if I need to test that. So my thoughts are that my expansion valve is toast which is what expands the hot liquid and turns it to cool liquid so the A/C gets cold. I think this because it seems all of the other components work.
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