Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 - Won't Shift After Coolant Pipe Replacement - Got Codes 00281 / 00652?
Aug 6, 2014
I have a '02 Jetta Wagon with 180k miles. The plastic coolant pipe on the side of the head had been weeping (as they do) and I decided to replace it last night. The pipe replacement went smoothly and uneventful. When I removed the pipe as usual a normal amount of coolant spilled from the head down onto the trans area. After the replacement, I hosed down the top of the tranny with the garden house. I then took the car out for a drive.
First thing I noticed that my CEL was off (it had been on for a small emissions leak) and that seemed odd. Then about quarter mile down the road I noticed she was not shifting. It would hit maybe 30 at 3000 rpm and just stay there. So I pulled over and turned her off and looked under the hood...all seemed well. Started it back up and the CEL comes on right away. I drive and still stuck in gear.
I get home and run a cheap CEL check and get 00281 and 00652. Which seems to be fault codes for the VSS G68 sensor. So I check my connectors, take apart and make sure they are clean and dry...all seems good. I clear the codes and start it up and codes are right back again and stuck in gear.
It is late so lat thing I do is check the resistance of the G68 and get pins 1-2 800ohm, pins 1-3 800ohm, pins 2-3 1600ohm. I also check pins on G38 and get 1000ohm there.
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I started my car the other day and found that it only drives the first gear and I can also put it in reverse. VCDS gave me a 00281 code saying no signal from Vehicle Speed Sensor G68. I replaced the sensor, but it still doesn't go into gear beyond 1st.
VCDS gives me the following codes after replacing G68.
2 Faults Found:
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68)
03-00 - No Signal
I came across TSB 01-99-02 which says something about the codes being incorrect. It seemed a little vague about whether it is actually G38 or G22. I don't want to buy more sensors only to have it be something else. The speedometer and tach work fine so G22 doesn't seem likely to me.
The VCDS site says it could be several things including bad G68 or G38 sensor, low fluid & bad valve body. Was it the G38 sensor?
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So I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
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My temperature has been randomly dropping, them back to middle, and recently my engine was overheating because I'm guessing the fans didn't turn on, because I'm also guessing, the engine didn't know it was overheating?
Anywho, during my replacement, I made sure to get rid of the pressure, and the car was cold. I tightened the cap again, but when I took the sensor out, all the coolant spewed out.
Now if I understand this correctly, do I have a leak? I figured the leak I had was coming from the temp sensor as it is.
Here's some pictures for those who'd like to see ....
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I recently got the solid check engine light for my 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GLS. I used a bluetooth OBDII dongle and Torque Pro to pull the code P0118. This seems to coincide with my symptoms:
Car idle at start in park stays around 1100RPM then in reverse it drops to 1000RPM then back into park and it stays around 900RPM and keeps that at idle.
If I start the car then immediately reverse out of my driveway then the car has a very rough idle but if I wait around 5 seconds in park idle then reverse out of my driveway it is smooth.
My car dash thermometer stays pretty close to the bottom low then after about 4-5 minutes it shoots up to 190F and stays. Gas mileage is also very poor.
I looked up a tutorial which shows the parts needed and how to replace the sensor : [URL] .....
I removed the engine cover and believe I found the coolant temp sensor in the spot the tutorial shows. My question is if there is anything I should be aware of before attempting to replace this sensor that this tutorial doesn't cover? I took a screenshot of what I believe is the coolant temp sensor.
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I had the oil changed on my 2002 Civic at the Honda garage. They said the pan was badly rusted out and beginning to leak and that the pipe (exhaust pipe?) would also fall apart from rust when they went to change the oil pan. They said it was unsafe to drive in the meantime because the pan is so soft. If the pan springs a leak, I can just pull over and get a tow, right? I hadn't even noticed the leakage, it's minor. I'll take it to an independent garage for an estimate, but what should I be expecting for something like this?And can I safely drive it around town in the meantime?
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I have a 2002 V6 Passat Wagon. I am hemorrhaging coolant out of my lower coolant pipe. I can reach it put my finger in a feel the coolant coming out as fast as I pour it in. I can't see any way to get at the pipe from the top and I can't see the hose that should be attached there from the top. I assume this means the front end will need to be jacked up and go at it from the bottom. Also note the intake and return from the heater in my car is mexi fixed and looped together (no heat).
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Long story short is that I need to replace the 5 speed transmission in my 2002 AWP Jetta. I believe it has the EHA transmission in it from the factory, but what are the differences between the different transmission codes? Better question, can I swap any O2J transmission into my Jetta?
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I am charged with caring for a 2002 VW Jetta, V6, automatic transmission, on which I am reading error codes P0030 and P0811 with Malfunction Indicator Light on. The car has 82k miles on it.
P0030 seems to be for Bank 1 Sensor 1, but I have not found an authoritative source. I am seeing P0811 being discussed mainly with relation to manual transmissions, but there are mentions of some sensors, and even ATF, as independent causes. I believe the ATF was changed less 5k miles ago, but I need to confirm. The ATF was extremely dirty at the time.
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When you sit in the car and put it in reverse it wont go in.
If you stick your hand in the engine compartment, push down on the golf club looking linkage and shift it into reverse it goes right in and you are able to back up the car.
So my question is which linkage may need fixing or replacing or adjustment. The shifter linkage in the car? the linkage on the golf club thing or any parts in between.
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I noticed today when I was in a drive thru that ,y Jetta was smoking a little.... Went home ate my food and came out and looked underneath the Jetta and found a substantial coolant leak..... My heater core is bad I know this already... Would this cause coolant to leak outside the car or the carpet only??? I jacked up the car and checked for leaks... There is coolant all over the rear engine mount... And the driver side corner of the engine is pretty soaked in coolant....I can't pin point the leak..... There is a connection coming out of the side of the head that's got a little pinky crusty stuff on it but I can't see anywhere around it...
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I own a 2002 Jetta 1.8T now here is my story.
A week ago whiles driving lost power when accelerating, EPC light illuminates so I turned on my hazard light and limped home since I was far away from home. As I limped home, all the lights on the dash went off. I got home, shut engine off, restarted the car but car wont accelerate.
I popped the hood and saw the dreaded melted fuse box on top of battery with charred alternator cable. I ordered the fuse box and alternator cable and prepared to replace them.
I realized that with the driver side door open with no key in ignition, I could hear a clicking sound with inside lights blinking. Didn't worry because I believed it had to do with the melted fuse box and charred alternator cable. I noticed that the clock was off too.
I replaced.the fuse box and alternator cable. My battery is just a year old so when I tried starting the car and it won't crank, I tried to jump start it but no sound. Car won't start. Dead silence,no click nothing.
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Why my 2002 Jetta 1.8t does this?
After I drive for a while I have to [slowly] open the overflow cap and relieve pressure in order to not lose coolant while the car sits. It steams for a bit when I open the cap and then the coolant rises in the reservoir then I close it.
If I don't do this then the car loses coolant but I don't see any leaks visible under the car.
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My car started make a weird chatter noise. The noise was never there before I swapped out the plastic coolant pipe with the billet crack pipe.
Car info : Stock flash, flapper open, EVOMs intake, 46k miles
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Come out to the this am and notice a small puddle that was not there last night. Pull the car out and it's start burning something off. Roll the car in first thought is oil (maybe the turbo return line is leaking) no its coolant. On the lower portion of the down pipe and running across the bottom. I'm at a loss as where the leak could be coming from being back there.
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Putting a straight pipe from the cat back on 1.8T mk4? I was thinking going 2.5 inches from the cat back with a tip. But I wanna know how loud it is.
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I recently put a fmic on my mk4 and a 3" dp... My question was : any kind or heat wrap on the down pipe or intercooler piping? I also didn't know if painting the ic pipes with ceramic paint would keep the temp down.
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I have a 2004 1.8t Jetta with a rusted out flex pipe. The leak is causing a bad smell and also a lot of noise -- What's my best option to replace the downpipe (but also other parts if need be) without having to weld it?
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Mine appears to be leaking where the rubber pipe meets the metal coupler. What actually secures the rubber to the metal? I will get a new 1 soon but will be a week or so as I'm all spent after a few other unnecessary car related items.
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So I have a 2002 GTI VR6 with the 24v BDF Engine. I have been having a problem with my belt squealing. It started after I replaced my water pump and crack pipe. While I was at it I replaced the belt tensioner and belt with a kit from ECS than had an aftermarket tensioner and a Conti drive belt(has 6 ribs). When starting the car up for the first time after doing the water pump I noticed the belt was squealing. It would only squeal when I gave it some good throttle.
After a few minutes it stopped squealing so I figured it was some coolant or something on the belt. Well its been a few weeks and it continues to squeal when I give it throttle, but only if the ac is on and it will only do it for a few minutes. After a few minutes of the car running or driving down the road it doesn't squeal anymore. I did make a long drive in the rain very shortly after replacing the belt and it was a really heavy rain storm. There was a lot of water on the road and my belt was squealing pretty much the whole drive if I had the ac on. I had to alternate ac on and off so I could keep the windows defogged.
After that experience I put on a set of engine splash guards from ECS. (note these guards were the ECS branded ones and were a terrible fit. Holes didn't line up with studs on bottom of frame and ended up taking the middle belly pan section out as it would hang down way too low even with the side covers connected to it.) That seemed to keep it from squealing while driving in the rain but it still squeals after first starting the cold engine with ac on.
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Okay so recently I was driving my 2000 Jetta and the coolant temp light came flashing on, when I went to check the coolant I was surprised to discover that it was like a mud brown color, almost looks like peanut butter. From everything I have read this can be from a few things, either rust build up that is gunking everything up and oil getting into the coolant somehow. I'm pretty sure its rust build up but I was wondering what everyone thinks about this, I was also not using G12 coolant which I'm told now is the premier brand for VW's.
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