I need to replace the fuel line that connects to the fuel rail, it is old and corroding and drips out gas when I dry so I need to replace it. I have the new fuel line for it but how would I go about taking it off and the clamps? Just wanna make sure I am doing it right.
View 1 RepliesIt appears the Engine By fuel line connectors are broken. I searched for DIY'ers on how to fix, but so far I only see those related to fixing other sections on the fuel line, not this upper section. It's on the passenger side. How to fix it?
View 3 RepliesLow ac line is cold
Fans kick on
Compressor clutch kicks on and spins with pulley till I turn ac button off
Added r134
Changed pressure switch
Changed ambient temp sensor
Car is just manual ac control and car blows at 80 degrees.what else could it be?cars 02 gti 1.8t
I have a 2002 Jetta TDI with the grey leather parking brake handle cover and would like to replace it. How to do this and if I will have to remove the armrest & the plastic trim around the handle?
View 2 RepliesI just purchased a Jetta and it needs both side mirrors replace. Now I have used the search with a lot of success but for some reason I haven't been able to find out how to get to the bolts for the side mirrors. How do you get to the bolts to replace the side mirrors ?. I am also sure I could figure it out in time but I would rather not break anything trying to force parts off.
View 2 RepliesI have got a 5 door 2002 Golf 1.6l petrol, manual transmission with 190k kilometers on the clock. It has been playing up recently and the authorized VW garage is clueless, but still happy to charge for a miserable job...
The "symptoms" are always the same: I can start the car no problem. Plenty of water coming out of the exhaust and EPC light comes on, no power transmission (or very little). In this state, the engine runs irregular. Before all this happens, you can tell there will be a problem (this is not super obvious), as the car does not run smoothly in neutral, especially when it is at a a hill You might get away with another 50k but that's it.
Breakdown 1: Called out road side assistance and got it towed. Volkswagen dealer retrieved the error code P1564 and they replaced the throttle and some of the contacts of the throttle. (Costs 800 GBP)
Breakdown 2: However, 300 km later, same problem as before road side assistance retrieved error code P0638. The memory was reset and it did run perfectly fine for a short while (2000 km).
Breakdown 3: As before, error message P1564 was read. This time they thought there was a problem with the coil in cylinder 2 and replaced it (250 GBP) - also the one in cylinder 1 as "old". Picked up the car and it was not running smoothly in neutral and it eventually broke down after only 90 km.
What to get changed next? What is the real root of the problem here?
There was a really good write up on how to go about replacing the sunroof drain line on the forum, yet I'm having troubles finding it. Been using the search function for the last hour with no luck. Finding the write up I'm referring to? I do remember it has an odd post title.
View 3 Replies I bought my RS a little more than a month ago. Low and behold about two weeks later my drivers side footwell and behind the drivers seat collected about 2 inches of rain water.
I have searched far and wide and perhaps I'm missing something...My leak is not in the rear which I have seen plenty of info and a couple awesome DIY's. My leak is coming from the panels by the fuse box and hood release. The original owner had done the service to it where the nipples are cut and drained. When I poured a cup of water in the front left drain in the sunroof water comes out of the nipple as well...
I got a 2002 GTI 1.8t , with about 109,xxx miles. Ran into a few problems, I took the hose off the fuel rail and turnt the key on. & noticed the fuel pressure was noticeable low & another problem i got is the car doesnt start most of the time. it takes about 3 or 4 cranks before it eventually tuns over. sometimes i noticed if i turn the key on and leave it for a minute or so itll start up. finally want to fix this POS. so I decided to run the codes & heres what i got
P0230
Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
CONFIRMED
P0341
Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Proformance B1
The Symptoms: Car decided not to turn over for my son one morning, when I came home I tried with my key and the engine did turn over but immediately died.
Turned on key to power and watched for lights like the immobilizer/key but that came on and went off no problems there, did the same with both keys and the immobilizer/security key light went off fine.
Read for codes and there was a P0320 which pointed to Crankshaft Position Sensor. Order the part from good old Rock Auto and 2 days later it came, installed, cleared out the code, tried to start, did not start.
Decided to spray some starter fluid into the throttle body to get it to turn over in hopes a new code would come out.
It did fire up for a few seconds and did throw another code, this time P0321. That code points to the same sensor I just replaced.
Figured I would check to ensure the fuel pump and relay were working so I wired from positive and negative battery terminal to the outer plug clips at the fuel pump and I heard and felt it click. Not sure if it should prime and make more than just a click.
In my other cars you can clealy hear it prime for more than a second so not sure if the fuel pump is really the culprit here.
The car has 125K and the pump is original I can see.
I did check the relay fuse under the drivers side dash and I can feel/hear it click when I turn the ignition on.
I also did check all of the various fuses in the side compartment that have to do with the engine, they all look good and tested with multimeter as well.
So now I did order a new fuel pump, what else to try out? I did change the fuel filter at 100K so do not believe that is causing the issue. Not sure if the fuel regulator by the rail could be an issue.
It seems like all of a sudden fuel is not being delivered and with faulty injectors or plugs, they throw a code for misfire etc. Also starter seems to be fine, no griinding/smoke etc but was thinking about taking it out and over to Advance to have them check as well.
I was just curious is there a fuel line replacement that's pre-molded? Or do I need to get a roll of a certain diameter line and mold it my self? It's leaking right under the drivers door and it used to be pretty small but has gotten bigger. I can take a picture of the location if needed?
View 13 RepliesJust dropped off my 2 door GTI for the fuel line rattle, dealer said they havent heard of this issue on the two doors, but we will find out..
View 1 RepliesI was changing the fuel filter and I got it all done, started the car and heard a pop and the car died. the line that goes from the tank to the filter keeps popping off the filter... i can pull it off with my hands.. the other one is fine but the fuel line to the fuel filter isnt grabbing that barb on the filter. its not the filters problem cause it now does it with my old one too...
View 23 RepliesAfter finally getting some issues sorted this weekend (needed a transmission flush) I was driving around a bit to make sure everything was good. On the way back to my house, the car started overheating. I replaced the thermostat this winter (~4-5 months ago) because it was stuck open making things run a little cool.
I was thinking the water pump is probably shot but not 100% sure. the radiator fans both work and when I turn on the heater, it blows hot. Any good way to check if the water pump is dead? I have a little point and shoot infrared thermometer and one side of the coolant line was way hot and the other was fine (cold ~90 deg F).
I have a leak in my rear wiper fluid line on my GTI. When I use the rear washer, I get a pool of fluid in the driver side taillight and under the rear seats. I'm getting some fluid in the rear driver side headliner as well so the break must be there. First step is to pull the headliner.
View 4 Replies Ive got a 2001 MKIV Golf GTI. Recently I've had some clutch problems, I kept returning to the car and finding the clutch on the floor. After a tow My mechanic managed to get it back after a lot of pumping and messing around, and told me It needed a Slave Cylinder. So that night after driving home (clutch wasn't feeling good) I came out and found the clutch on the floor again.
So I went out - got a new genuine slave cylinder and replaced it myself. But now I cant for the life of me bleed the clutch - I've bled brakes plenty of times but never a clutch. I am doing it manually, I've read online some guides.
1) Crack the bleeder & push pedal down... because its got that spring, it stays on the floor.
2) Close the bleeder, pull clutch up with hand...
Ive been doing this over and over and over, but nothing happens... fluid isn't even coming out of the bleeder. Im guessing this could be because the slave has no fluid in it and there is an Airlock?? I want to try to avoid getting another tow truck.
2002 Jetta 2.0L...
The Haynes Manual tells you to lift the car up and un-mount the engine mount on the drivers side of the transaxil to get access to the VSS underneath the vehicle, but you can do it from the top of the engine!
1. Take out your Air filter box for easier access
2. My VSS was covered by a metallic heat pouch with snaps. (not mentioned in Haynes Manual)
3. I got Needle nose pliers to wedge in the small area to unscrew the bottom half of the VSS. It is a small area to get your hand in, but with the needle pliers was actually pretty easy.
4. Then get something small enough to release the clip for the top plug. I used my screwdriver.
5. Screw in your new VSS and plug the top cable back, then put your air filter back in place.
If you look at the pictures I took, you can see the VSS and the silver pouch I mentioned. I had a lot of trouble finding the location of the VSS with no real good pictures or explanations online. Note these pictures were taken from the drivers side, which the empty space is where the air filter was and on the right you can see the battery.
After getting some misfire and hesitation (code reading says misfire on cylinder 3), it looks like I'll be doing my first spark plug change on my 24V VR6. I've ordered all of the plugs, and have made sure that I'v got all my tools on hand. Hopefully, the DIY's I've found on Vortex will be as useful as they look .
My car has 163K on the clock, and spark plug change has been on my short list of to-do items, as I'm not sure of the maintenance history of the car. Hopefully, the spark plugs will do the trick, but coil packs will be done soon too.
Would it be OK to change just the coilpack on cylinder 3 and leave the others alone if they are all working OK? Or just shell out the cash to change all six at once?
Headlight bulbs. So I am looking to replace my bulbs because mine don't seem to have that great of light output. I am not sure if it is the actual headlight or if it is just the bulbs? Is it possible to just replace the bulbs and get better light output? I am not sure of the brand of headlights I have but I am pretty sure they are some cheap aftermarket ebay headlights. I want to replace the headlights in the future but for now I was wondering if I can get away with just replacing the bulbs. When selecting the bulbs, are they all pretty much universal or do I have to buy specifically for the type of headlights I have?
View 10 RepliesFour days into it the low tire pressure indicator lights up. Hit the reset, checked the tires, deflated some air and filled back up, etc and the indicator is still on. Even my local shop couldn't fix it. So yesterday I'm driving home and the fuel gauge suddenly stops registering, the needle drops below the red empty line. This morning I start it up and the fuel gauge is working, for about a minute, then it drops again. Same situation after stopping to get a cup of coffee. I'm taking it to a dealer today. Think the problem could be a defective speedo gauge cluster?
View 8 RepliesI've lost all power steering about a week ago. I checked all the lines the return is bring fluid up from the pump and the res is flowing into the pump.
A) should I replace pump?
B) look into other things that could be causing the issue?