Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 - Stalling / Occasionally Shudder At A Stop Light
Jul 22, 2015
2002 1.8t Jetta Wagon with the automatic transmission. They've had it for about a week now and we've been trying to iron a few problems out. Mostly cosmetic until the last couple days.
The coil pack harness is trash. I bypassed a couple of the extreme cracked wires in attempt to keep it going until the new one comes in hopefully at the end of this week. We put new plugs in but only afterward did we find out that NGK or VW is the way to go. We put autolite iridiums in.
New fuel filter, however, the line connecting the tank to the filter will not click into place completely. We are able to start/drive the car without the line popping off from the pressure, but you just have to tug on it with your hand to get it off, no need to depress the clip.
The car seems to run better cold. Once it is warmed up and you've been driving around town for 10-15 minutes is when the shuddering starts. It ONLY dies when in Drive or Reverse while at a complete stop. The idle drops down to 400 rpm or so, you can't rev the motor/drive. Sometimes it will come back up to normal and you can go, sometimes it will go back and forth but you can't get any power to the wheels. Sometimes it will drop the RPMs and shudder at 400 for a couple seconds then just die. It always starts right up without hesitation. In park/neutral the idle is still slightly erratic, occasionally bumping up to around 1300 rpms for a second or two then back to around 900 or so.
When we bought the car, we test drove it and it was fine. Of course that is how it works out. They drove the car for about a week. In that time, it shuddered and died once, and would occasionally shudder at a stop light but there was no issue driving it or loss of power when accelerating.
What I'm wondering is if we should go ahead and order the R8 coil pack and spark plug kit from HSTuning. I'm hoping that the harness fixes the issue, but if it could be cheap spark plugs or a coil pack going out, I'd like to get it all done at once. My main concern is the possibility that it could be the transmission. The symptoms feel like loss of power, not slipping, but still, I'm worried that maybe it could be the issue.
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04 Jetta GLI 1.8T... Just picked this girl up last week and I love it. Super smooth ride and shifts cleaner than any car I've driven and owned.
Originally wanted a TDI, but I couldn't resist this deal that fell in up my lap. Occasionally the EPC light comes on and goes away. Working on diagnosing it in the mean time...
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Shortly after 40K service at the dealership, where DSG oil and Haldex oil were changed. My wife who is currently daily driving my R32, and was on a road trip at the time, feels something like she a shudder in the drivetrain and car stalled. She pulled over and restarted car only to hear the metallic grinding noise while trying to move fwd.
Car towed to different out of town VW dealer, who says the "Front Haldex/Transfer case" failed internally, replacing under extended warranty with sealed unit shipping from Germany.
Story smells to me, and I wouldn't be surprised if local dealership drained the oil out of something and did not refill, as this seems like a very rare failure.
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New valve cover gasket on my 03 VR6 GTI, new plugs, oil filter and cooler seals, new gaskets on the intake manifold and when we started it up . . . .
[URL] .....
It runs rough.
EPC light is on.
Stall at idle.
Runs great at full throttle.
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I came to a stop at a stop sign and the car just quit. Its a 02 12v vr6 5 speed...
So I tried restarting it and it will only crank...
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So here's a stinker that apparently has my mechanic puzzled. A few days ago I brought in my 2002 Jetta wagon in for a headlamp bulb change and a oil change. I pull out, but by the time I get home the check engine light is on. The manual says it's an emissions issue. I plan to make a garage visit on Thursday. they call me and say that they have my hubcaps...for some reason. OK, well, the next day, I am accelerating to get onto the highway, and suddenly, there is a big power drop and shudder. I pull over, call AAA and they take me into the garage where I got the oil change. Today, they say that a number of the spark plugs were out, but that it was strange because the corrosion made it clear that they had not been disturbed or pulled off in any way. They said that the spark plugs accounted for all of the car's symptoms. But we could not figure out how multiple spark plugs came out.
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stop oil pressure light will come on at 1800 to 2000 rmp i just changed the oil to full synthetic now i see the oil light come on at 3000 rpm i changed the oil pump and sending unit and the car sounds good no rattles what could be the problem ?? its been doing this for 2 years now
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When I am stopped and remove my foot from the brake, the car shudders as it moves forward. This happens when I do not give it any throttle. The idle forward is jerky...like it pulses. It feels like when you let the clutch out too slow on a manual trans. The DSG in all it's techno-glory should be able to release it's clutch(s) smoothly one would think? It happens when I am waiting in line at a stop sign or in traffic...anytime I need to idle forward slowly. I've been driving it for less than a week...it has 320 miles and I'm keeping it under the limits for break-in (BORING). Anyway, the thought of taking it for service at this point is depressing..
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I purchased a used 2002 Camry [above model] with 99K miles on it in March, 2009. This is my 3rd Camry as the first, 1986 had 256K and the 1997 had 252K. I was very pleased with the 86 & 97 and very displeased with this new one!
I have problems with the engaging stalling, surging at stop signs as well as problems at about 40 mph.
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The other night I was coming home from work in my 1999.5 MKIV 2.0 Golf (Only about a 2 mile drive), once I got to a stop light my car just turned off. No loud bang, no sputter then die, just off (Like I turned the key). After trying to start the car with just a click, pushed it into a nearby parking lot with a friend steering. Once in the park lot we tried bump starting the car (it's a manual) with nothing the car sounding like it wanted to go but never did. The next night I pushed it back to my house, pulled the starter and the battery, and had both of them tested. The starter extended and spun up fine and the battery was in excellent shape.
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Picked up my MK6 GTI DSG last Saturday. I have noticed a slight shudder when braking and coming to a gentle stop. At first I thought it may be the brakes bedding in so I kept it over the weekend. By today there's still no change. Is it normal for DSG transmission stop like this? Because I have never driven DSG transmission.
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I have a 02 PSD, and sometimes after I start it up my radio and power windows do not work. I have a red "security" light on my Kenwood radio that turns on when the truck is off. That light keeps flashing after I turned on the truck so I know it's still getting power, but for some reason it thinks the truck is off, and the windows don't go down. Other days it works perfectly fine, sometimes the radio and windows will stop working after driving normal.
At first it was a routine where I knew they'd start working shortly. But today was the last straw, I drove into work with no radio and windows not rolling down for 30 miles. Of course after I park, I turn off the truck, turn it back on and everything comes on like nothing ever happened. What can be causing this, I have checked all the wiring, no kinks, cuts, nothing. I remember reading something about a relay that can cause this but can't find that info.
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I have an 03 vw Jetta 1.8t with around 100,000 miles and I recently ran into a problem with the car jolting, or slipping when I get on it hard. And also when I'm sitting at a stop light it will jerk forward like it wants to go. I've tried a few things like cv axels and some other things but I'm just hoping it's not the tranny.
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I've got some problems going on with my 2001 VR6 Jetta. I was driving home from my way to work this evening and all of a sudden the indicator light came on and told me to stop and check the coolant level. Within about three minutes the car was already up to about 200. I pulled over to a gas station and the coolant reservoir was completely empty. So I began to pour coolant in the reservoir and fill it up I notice I was pouring a lot of coolant so I went to the hood looked on the driver side below the bumper and water/cool was pouring out everywhere. I inspected as many radiator hoses as I could and did not find any cracks. The water seem to be pouring out from around the thermostat housing. My question would be since I don't know whole lot about cars would they crack thermostat housing because you need to have this problem?
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This morning I went to my car started it for 10 seconds the light on my dash said stop and to check coolant, I got a ride to get some coolant filled it up, drove to work than drove home after work and the coolant level is at the same place I filled it up as this morning. What happend that it was gone last night than fine today? 03 vw gti vr6 24v ....
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So I have the warranty on my car still and I've brought my R into the dealership to have it checked out. They want to do more "diagnostic" work on it since they're not sure what's wrong with it.
The Issue: When coming to a stop, the RPMS will occasionally surge up to 1500ish RPMS, before slowly dropping down to the idle 800ish.
CEL has come on twice in the past month after a day or so of this happening (first time, CEL went away on it's own after 3-4 days, 2nd time, I had the code cleared at the dealership).
Code: P0507 - Idle Air Control RPM Higher Than Expected
I'm thinking it's the PCV valve failing, or in the process of it. The dealership says they think it's an air leak somewhere in the intake system...which would make sense to me if it was a static, constant problem, but it's not. Therefore, through deductive reasoning, I believe it to be a moving part or a valve or some sort that is failing to operate properly.
The car is 100% stock. I have to take it back into the dealership in a couple of days, and I would like to suggest they check the PCV valve if that is the general consensus on here rather than waste more time.
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I have an '02 Tracker and I've noticed if I have several accessories running, that my engine will start to sputter and come to the verge of stalling when I come to a stop. It happens if I have the heat/air and radio or charging my phone on together. What is the cause and/or remedy for this? I've changed the alternator a few yrs. back, but it still continued.
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I have a 2010 GTI with 70K miles. At @ 40K the clutch began to exhibit sort of a slight sudder, and squeak when the car was fully warmed up, but only from starting from a stop on a steep uphill incline. The dealer could not duplicate the problem when routine maintainence was performed, At the 70K maintainence, they could duplicate the problem, and have told me that a new clutch from flywheel on is needed. The Diagnosis was $90 and could not have included any mechanical inspection. One of the Techs told me that there is a list of VIN's that VW apparently identified as having potential clutch issues. My thoughts are:
Even though the car is past the 60K powertrain warranty, the problem was brought to the dealers attention at @40K.
If the car is on the list, VW already knew there could be issues.
I feel that under the circumstances VW could be expected to cover 1/2 of the repair, since the car now has 70K.
Other questions if VW has no interest in working with me:
Can the flywheel be resurfaced? What would the approximate cost for labor to replace the clutch by an Independent garage? The car operates as usual, just with the one issue. I would like to have repair done fairly soon.
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So yesterday on my way to work the EPC light came on. Everything seemed fine. No loss of power or check engine light. Just an EPC light on the dash. So after searching around and checking the forums I decided to step outside and check the codes. I have a bluetooth OBD2 deal that talks to my phone and I have software on my phone to read and clear codes and other things. I checked but no codes. So I decided to do the clear codes function and it made the EPC light go off. On my way to grab some lunch the EPC light came back on and I noticed my cruise control would not work. Did some more research and figured it must be the brake light switch.
Went and bought one for 15 bucks and installed it. Cleared the light again with my phone and headed home. On my way home the EPC light comes back on. Once I get home I check and find my brake lights dont work at all. I checked the switch and it is functioning properly. I could even unplug the brake light switch and jump the red/brown power wire to the red/black wire and they still wouldn't light up. No power getting back to the lights. This morning I get up and head to work. No more EPC light and my brake lights are working fine. I'm thinking maybe a short in that red/black wire but I just don't know. Does that wire go straight from the brake light switch to the brake lights or does it go through any modules or connectors or anything? I would love to get a schematic of the Brake light wiring. 2002 GTI VR6.
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I'm new to the VW world and just bought a 2002 Jetta 1.6SR about two weeks ago. I just realized that when I turn the ignition on before cranking, all the lights come up except the CEL and traction control light. There are no codes stored when we checked it with a scanner. I took apart the cluster today to check if someone had taped in front of the LED but there was nothing, and the LED was intact, it just won't light up! I put everything back together and when I turned the ignition on.
I realized that the traction control light came on for the first time but still nothing for the CEL. I turned ignition off and on again, this time both the traction control and CEL didn't come on. Whenever I unplug the cluster and install it again, the traction control light will come on once, then if I turn the ignition off then on again, it will stop working. I even removed the MAF sensor to test the CEL but it never came on! All the fuses are intact as well... So my question is, is this a faulty cluster, LED, or is something wrong with my ECU?
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My engine (2011 gti mt ~2000mi) occasionally shudders when coming to a complete stop, just for the last second or two when I've thrown it in neutral. Is this something I should be concerned about, and to what extent.
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