Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 - Replace Throttle Body And Coil In Cylinder 2 But Again Error Message P0638?
May 26, 2014
I have got a 5 door 2002 Golf 1.6l petrol, manual transmission with 190k kilometers on the clock. It has been playing up recently and the authorized VW garage is clueless, but still happy to charge for a miserable job...
The "symptoms" are always the same: I can start the car no problem. Plenty of water coming out of the exhaust and EPC light comes on, no power transmission (or very little). In this state, the engine runs irregular. Before all this happens, you can tell there will be a problem (this is not super obvious), as the car does not run smoothly in neutral, especially when it is at a a hill You might get away with another 50k but that's it.
Breakdown 1: Called out road side assistance and got it towed. Volkswagen dealer retrieved the error code P1564 and they replaced the throttle and some of the contacts of the throttle. (Costs 800 GBP)
Breakdown 2: However, 300 km later, same problem as before road side assistance retrieved error code P0638. The memory was reset and it did run perfectly fine for a short while (2000 km).
Breakdown 3: As before, error message P1564 was read. This time they thought there was a problem with the coil in cylinder 2 and replaced it (250 GBP) - also the one in cylinder 1 as "old". Picked up the car and it was not running smoothly in neutral and it eventually broke down after only 90 km.
What to get changed next? What is the real root of the problem here?
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I decided to take out the throttle body and clean it with throttle body cleaner that I got from autozone, after I put everything back, I started my car and the motor was shaking and smoking a lot out the muffler and just would not be drivable at all. the RPM was just going up and down and hesitating bad. later I took off the spark plugs and they were very much burnt black at the tips and that is probably not normal right? but I replaced them with NGK BKR7E spark plugs and it still gave me the problem.
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I have a customer that has a 2.0 mk4 with 260000 miles on it..about 20k miles ago we had 6 codes saying throttle body was not working and car was surging, so we ordered a vdo tb, installed it reset tb and it ran fine for 7 months and 20k miles. Again car is surging, so i tried a tb reset. tb was under guarantee so we took advantage and replaced it/reset it and it threw a code within 5 min of driving and hesitating/surging. He is original owner? possible ecu getting sleepy?
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So the other day I went to the mechanic for him to see what code(s) were causing my CEL. He simply told me that there was an issue with the throttle body and it didn't know what position to be in; he cleared the codes, clean the throttle body and said if the light came on again I needed a new tb. The CEL came back on, but his diagnosis doesn't make sense to me.
From what I've researched if the throttle body had this issue the car would run like crap; however, it runs fine. Smooth idle, good throttle response, accelerates smoothly through the rev range, and I'm still getting decent fuel economy. Given that, it doesn't seem like it's the TPS either, and the tb was just cleaned so I'm confused. Could it actually be the throttle body, or is there some sensor that has just gone bad? The car is a 2000 Golf with an AEG engine & 5-speed box.
And here are a couple pic for clicks of a stock-ish car.....
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I have been having the dredded EPC light coming on and according to the vag scan its the throotle body. What I need to know is if one off a 2003 2.0 jetta will work on my 2004 2.0 jetta. The number on the side of mine 06A 133 062s is not the same number on the 03. I was told that they must match to work properly.
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I searched but couldn't immediately find anything about this particular line. I've been struggling with a rough idle for the past couple weeks, throwing codes that I'm running to lean all the time. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF, and was in the process of replacing the MAF and noticed a small hose fitting behind the MAF but before the throttle body was pretty much split in half. I don't know what it's for and I'm replacing it regardless, but could this be the source of my problem?
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So, we have a CEL and we're experiencing the lack of power under WOL. Feels like the fuel is being shut off. Did a little research and I guess the computer sees the issue and will cut fuel if it recognizes an issue? Could be the reason its showing the "Fuel level too low"?
Vagcom shows as follows:
2 Faults Found:
000772 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 000 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100000
[Code] ....
My plan is to replace cylinder 4 coil pack and all the plugs.
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After getting some misfire and hesitation (code reading says misfire on cylinder 3), it looks like I'll be doing my first spark plug change on my 24V VR6. I've ordered all of the plugs, and have made sure that I'v got all my tools on hand. Hopefully, the DIY's I've found on Vortex will be as useful as they look .
My car has 163K on the clock, and spark plug change has been on my short list of to-do items, as I'm not sure of the maintenance history of the car. Hopefully, the spark plugs will do the trick, but coil packs will be done soon too.
Would it be OK to change just the coilpack on cylinder 3 and leave the others alone if they are all working OK? Or just shell out the cash to change all six at once?
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I brought my Prius, 128,000 miles, into the dealer with the check engine light on. Runs fine, and checked the gas cap. Toyota dealer said they need to replace 4 fuel injectors, replace oxygen sensor, and clean the throttle body. Check engine light needs to be off so I can pass emission test.
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I need to replace the fuel line that connects to the fuel rail, it is old and corroding and drips out gas when I dry so I need to replace it. I have the new fuel line for it but how would I go about taking it off and the clamps? Just wanna make sure I am doing it right.
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I have a 2002 Jetta TDI with the grey leather parking brake handle cover and would like to replace it. How to do this and if I will have to remove the armrest & the plastic trim around the handle?
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I just purchased a Jetta and it needs both side mirrors replace. Now I have used the search with a lot of success but for some reason I haven't been able to find out how to get to the bolts for the side mirrors. How do you get to the bolts to replace the side mirrors ?. I am also sure I could figure it out in time but I would rather not break anything trying to force parts off.
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2002 Camry XLE.
I cleaned my throttle body today. Since the throttle plate moves by a motor, in order to keep it open, I turned the key to ON and held the gas pedal down by using some weight.
After I put everything back, the idle was high 2000+, then stays at 1300 to 1400 range. I drove about 10 miles and it is still the same. When stopped at a light in drive, the idle is still 1000
Did I mess up the e-throttle or the throttle position sensor? (Since I used a weight to hold the gas pedal down, I am worried now).
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I recently cleaned the throttle body and now it surges up and down. Not really sure what to check next. 2002 toyota camry 4 cyl.
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2002 mercury grand marquis high vibrating air pressure is in the throttle body it become louder with the more gas you give the car.The vibration is the worst in the idle speed control.The vibration extend all the way down to the air filter.The air filter is not stopped up.The noise use to come and go and the car would cut off at a idle.
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I have a 02 1.8t passat that if I don't start it for two days the battery will be totally dead. I have taken it to two places and they cant find what the draw is. The only thing that i could think of is my horn that sometimes when I am in the car it goes of randomly and my right side mirror that sometimes runs on. And my other problem is that when I drive it and I get to 3500rpm the throttle body shots of and I loose all my boost. I got a new turbo installed trying to fix the problem but still keeps happening. The only thing I could think of is that i have a stage 1 revo flash and when I took the old turbo out it may have erased the memory of the flash.
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Took my car in to get the tire and headlight replaced. Not my usual mechanic. While they were in there, they took it upon themselves to open up the filter and root around the throttle body. They said it was heavily gunked up, and asked to clean it. The car has been having serious starting issues, so this made sense to me, so I overlooked them examining a part of the car that had nothing to do with what I'd asked them to repair, and told them to go ahead.
Mechanic cleaned out the throttle body. Now he says there are scratches in it, he suspects from a mouse or rodent. Says it needs to be replaced, but he couldn't source a part today. Either way, I can't afford that. Says it's fine to drive, though.
Whatever they did, the car is now worse. Engine revs up high in park or when I start the car, and then drops dow and keeps revving rhythmically while idle. And I swear that while in drive, it's running faster even with my foot off the gas, and not dropping out of higher gears as fast. I go back and confront the mechanic. He says yes, that's all because of those scratches. But I don't understand how before, when it still had these scratches, WASN'T clean, when it was, in his words, all gunked up, it was working BETTER than it is now, when it's clean and just has those scratches?
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Just took off the throttle body of my 2002 GT to clean it. Had all of the sensors off (IAC, MAF, TPS). Put everything back together and it fired right up but immediately went to 3000 rpm and acted like it would keep climbing.
Thought I was very careful putting everything back together. Obviously the throttle is open but there is no play in the throttle cables. Could it be a sensor?
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2002 camry. The car will not accelerate. The throttle body makes a clicking sound when pedal is depressed.
So.. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts in it. In the mean time located a spare throttle body from a 2003 from a local yard. The old throttle body has a part number 22030-28030 and the replacement has a part number 22030 0H010. The replacement throttle body wouldn't even move when the pedal was depressed.
I put the old one back on.. and now it doesn't click anymore but the car in Park only revs to 2000 rpm's. Its not sticking or having any mechanical issue.
I checked the parts site for Toyota and the replacement is the new number. Superseded. Does the throttle body after replacement need to be reprogrammed? Or whats the deal. I wish I was more Toyota literate when it comes to this.
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So while driving yesterday I had a EPC and Check eng light come on and go away shortly after... maybe 1hr of drive time. Any way I took into dealer today to have them scan and they stated it was an issue with my throttle body.
Now as soon as he told me that he also said he can not do any work under warranty on my engine due to Stage 2 software and intake/down&mid pipe...... no big deal as I figured he would say something like that anyway. Should I take it apart and try to get it cleaned..... or what?
Its a 2010, with roughly 21k miles.... Had APR stage 2 for a few months now and this is the first thing that has come up.
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2002 Jetta 1.8L Turbo running fine. Then one day driving on the freeway at about 70, I try to pass someone and notice when I push the gas the engine lulls. I back off the gas and accelerate slower and I can get up to speed. Drive it all the way home and its fine a t low speeds. Turn the car off and try to restart it and it wont start. Turns over but wont start. No CEL or anything else, I check the codes and I have a P0171 (Lean fuel Bank 1). Where do I start? Also car is parked in an underground garage. No chance of a tow out of this place, it may soon be a Jetta tomb.
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