Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 JTI 1.8t ECM Replaced - Car Turns Over / Runs Then Dies
Oct 13, 2014
My friends car suddenly quit running while he was on a trip, he went through the carwash and as he pulled out the car died. He had it towed to a shop and they charged him $400 to run a few tests and replace the fuel pump relay thinking it would fix the problem, obviously didn't or i wouldn't be typing this. At this point the car cranks but won't start.
This is what the sheet from the shop says, "retest through PCM to locate problem. Ran diagnostics per flow chart. all power, grounds and G28 engine speed spensor output to ECM test good excepting pin T121/86, wire color Lilac/yellow. Signal between camshaft position sensor to ecm. No voltage signal recommend replace PCM and RETEST."
I've put a used ecm (ecu? i've read both terms used) in and the car cranks, starts, gets to idle and dies. If i give it gas after it starts it'll rev up once, then die. I'll call it progress, but i want this damn car out of my driveway.
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I just got my timing belt replaced by my mobile mechanic thats been doing it for years. I saw him do the work and get the timing right. When he was done the car turned on and ran perfect. After about a minute the car just shuts off. Now the car won't start at all. The car turns over but no start. The car ran perfectly before I had this job done.
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For the last couple years the engine light would come on solid every once in a while - read codes for the thermostat - my father-in-law checked it out (mechanic) and said it was fine and that the Jetta was being too liberal with it's engine light.
Engine light recently has started to come on more often. Started using premium gas - CEL went away for a few months. But now it keeps coming on, and once in a while flashes and the car runs rough. But it's intermittent - it'll go and come. Codes are:
16804 - catalyst system bank 1: efficiency below threshold
16684 - error in mapped cooling system
16685 - cylinder #1 misfire detected
Seems to me that the cylinder misfire would be the main issue here. I've changed the spark plugs pretty recently. Catalytic converter not too long ago also. I haven't changed the coil pack since I first got it like 6-7 years ago. With all the issues these years of VW's have had with coil packs, I'm fairly certain I need a new coil pack. O2 sensor?
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I am at a complete loss as to what could be wrong with my 2002 VW Gold Cabrio GLX automatic transmission. In the last month the car has been to 3 different mechanics & none of them could solve this problem. The basic scenario: The car starts up fine. The engine will run & everything works fine (AC, radio lights etc).
If I put the car in Drive or reverse...it will idle & move. However, the moment I touch the gas pedal, whether in reverse or Drive, the car jerks & dies. If I put it in park & try to start it up again, the engine will turn over & the car will start, but the moment I touch that gas pedal again, same thing, jerks & dies.
Things that have been replaced so far: ignition coil, fuel pump, the catalytic converter has been removed. spark plugs replaced. Now they are saying that the problem is electrical & are working with the fuzes & wires. The car ran fine for 3+ years & I've had no problem with it.
Yesterday the mechanic called me & said the car was ready for pick-up. I go over there, pay him, I reverse out of the driveway & the minute I press the gas, it jerks & dies. Is this problem really electrical? Or is this third mechanic also grasping at straws?
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My son has a 2002 Jetta, we just changed the water pump and the thermostat. The car will sit at idle and the temperature will stay around 190. When you drive down the road the temerature will rise and when you let off teh gas the temperature goes back down. What this could be, I have tried everything I can think of to fix this car.
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Coming home from a road trip we stopped for gas not 5 minutes later the check engine light started flashing. The car was fine as long as you were puching on the gas but as soon as you slowed to a stop it would either die or shudder until I gave it some more gas. Being stupid I figured that I could probably get it home since It was only 25 miles of freeway driving and I wouldn't have to stop until I got near my home. I took it to a mechanic the next day and they said that it was my timing belt.
The next day I get a call from them telling me my timing belt is fine but they discovered that a valve adjuster shim is missing on cylinder 6 and the adjuster cup is jammed down as well as a crack in the locating pin hole so that the pin is moving causing the cam to shift in relation to the cam gear. They suggested I rebuild or replace the cylinder heads and may need to replace the engine. What this could be?
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I have a 2002 Excursion 7.3 4x4 and when it will start is runs for about 20 min then turns off. When I go to start the truck again the theft light flashes rapidly and the glow plug light never turns off. I have tried reprogramming the key to the PATS by leaving it turned for 30 minute then turning it back then starting and that worked for a few times but it doesn't anymore. Additionally I used to be able to take the terminals off the batteries for 20 minutes or so and then it would start after re connecting them but now I have to leave the batteries off for like 24 hours then it will start fine 1 time run for 20 minutes and die and won't start all over again.
I have a snap on solus pro I am borrowing to figure it out but am not very familiar with it, I can only find codes P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid circuit (but mine is 4x4) and U1262 data fault for J1850 there is nothing pulling up under the PATS option in the scanner so I don't know whats wrong or where to even begin, it just shuts off.. The truck runs great till it shuts off, buzz test in the scanner doesn't do anything and neither does the glow plug test. When the truck dies is just turns off like someone turned the key off, no running rough or anything first, I am pretty sure the computer is shutting off the injectors and then locking me out.
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I have a 2006 Expedition with 90k miles. I am the original owner. don't drive the vehicle much just mostly when the family goes somewhere or when I'm putting the Jet skis in the lake.
About a year ago the air con went out and since I don't drive it that much I decided to fix it later, well now is later. How to diagnose the AC system. what I am looking for is a methodical step by step procedure for trying to find out what is causing my AC to not work.
the symptoms are, the compressor turns on runs for a few seconds and then turns off. inside the cab I can hear hear a hiss noise during the few seconds that the compressor comes on and fades away slowly when the compressor shuts off.
I bought a can of 134a with the gauge, I adjusted the gauge for the correct ambient temperature hooked up to the low side and was surprised to see that the Freon was only a little low. I topped it off but still no change in the compressor running.
I bought a set of manifold gauges from Harbor Freight (I know I know you get what you pay for) in any case I hooked up the gauges to see what the pressures are when the compressor turns on but only seeing a little change.
Any way I took my Speedy (expedition) to the local auto air conditioner shop the mechanic hooked his gauge set up to the vehicle, watched it for a few minutes, made some phone calls, came back. He did tell me that he was going to have to replace the compressor, condenser, dryer, expansion valves both front and back and flush the rest of the parts that did not get replaced. I suppose this is a good price if all that work really needs to be done???
However I would like to exhaust all of my options before I dump half the vehicles blue book value into the air conditioning. so I've been searching the internet and found that it is possible the problem may reside in a control valve that may be present in the type of scroll compressor that is in the expedition.
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In my 2001 2.0, my AC has been blowing hot air for a while now. It was intermittent at first but now is constant.
The compressor runs without going off when the AC is switched on. I can tell because I see the compressor clutch engaged and spinning.
I tested with AC manifold gauges and these are the readings I got.
Engine off : Low is 0, High is 135
Engine on, AC on full blast after running 10 min at 1500 RPM:
Low is 4, High is 135
Looks pretty bad.
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I just got done with a complete engine rebuild on my 02 1.8t jetta, had everything hooked back up and went to start it for the first time and it wouldn't. I went back looking for loose connections, nothing. Worked and banged my head for a day or two, I had fuel and spark but couldn't get it to fire. Finally I "choked" the intake to see if it was getting too much air and it fired right up. I unplugged my map sensor giggles and it starts up perfectly. I then hooked everything back up and what do you know it starts up and runs fine, but if I plug the sensor back in it kills the motor after about 10 seconds of running and won't start until I unplug the map again.
Car runs and drives but wont boost over wg pressure but that's probably because sensor itself is unplugged. I just wanna know what could cause it besides the sensor itself being bad. I ordered a new one waiting for it to get here (hoping it fixes the problem).. And I'm talking map (manifold absolute pressure) not maf (mass air flow), just in case people are confused.
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2001 VR6 GTI....
Already done:
Replaced the coil pack and plugs
Measured resistance of plug wires (all at about 6K Ohm)
Replaced front O2 sensor
Replaced purge solenoid valve
Replaced coolant temp sensor
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Replaced MAF sensor
Cleaned the throttle body
Cleaned the throttle position sensor
Ran a tank of seafoam treatment (injectors were new 6 mos ago.)
Checked running voltage of battery
It was smoking and stinking bad with a rich mixture. It improved with the MAF change but still runs like a farm tractor. Now it idles on 3 or 4 cylinders, runs rough through 3000 RPM then runs cleaner at above 3000 RPM, but only at light throttle. CEL is either on or flashing when driving.
Don't know what to do next - nice car not fun to drive like this. What this could be and how to test it?
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Cracked my oil pan somehow on the way home. I didn't notice it at first because I didn't go out to start it till the following evening. I went out to let it warm up for 5 minutes that evening and it started perfectly fine. I went back in the house to grab a couple of things, and i could here a loud ticking so i run out side to shut the car off and just as i get to the car it dies. so i push it into the shop and of course i notice the huge splotch of oil on the gravel. It sat in the shop for close to a month, as I got busy with school, and what not, I didn't get a chance to replace the oil pan.
I finally replaced the oil pan on Friday night, there was no metal bits or shavings in the old oil pan. it wont start. everything turns on in the car just fine. It just wont start. Battery is at 12.6 v all the grounds are solid no corrosion. The car tries to start, but the starter will maybe turn over once or twice and then stop.
Is the Motor pooched or is there something I'm missing.
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So i just recently purchased this car and about two weeks in I CEL turns on and the car just doesn't seem to drive like it did when i first brought it home. I don't know much about forced induction cars but the from watching the boost gauge, it seems to flutter when accelerating and just doesn't pick up like it should i feel. First thing I could think of is a boost leak but like I said, don't know anything about these cars.
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My car has been sitting for three days and I went to start it and it turns over but doesn't even try to fire. If i press the gas while it's turning over, it doesn't change at all. Do any of you know what could be causing that?
yes I searched and it turned back nothing, so if there is already a thread, could you point me in that direction?
Also, the car previously had a tick on start up for about 30 seconds and then it would disappear, that doesn't seem related to the no cranking thing to me though. The only other strange thing that happened was a week ago when the car dumped an unusual amount of smoke as if it blew a head gasket... but it didn't, and nothing has happened since then until now.
The car used to do frequent trips of 15 or 20 miles at a time every day but now it does 5 or 6 miles every few days and then 300 miles at 80mph each way once a month, so I don't know if the constant 3800 rpms on the long trips could be having some sort of affecting this
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This weekend I replaced the transmission in my 2000 12v vr6 5 speed golf. Got In drive around block going through each gear all seemed fine. Then I tried reverse and couldnt find it. Seem like it reverse was more like 5th cause car would try and move forward. I have the new style shifter and the bearing is quite a bit beat up. However if I in engine bay operating the gears directly on shift paddle I still can't seem to find reverse. Is there some kind of lock out or what could I be missing. I tried adjusting the cables but that seemed to make things worse not better.
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After changing my dead alternator and resulting dead battery, I am having what seems to be electrical issues with my 2.8L VR6.
Neither of my keys can unlock or lock the car remotely and when I try to start the car, all the regular lights turn on in the dash, but the engine dosn't make a sound. Inside the car there is no power apart form the gauges, no windows, no AC, no sunroof, nothing. I have checked the fuses, unplugged the battery and plugged it back in, even changed the batteries in my keys to make sure that they weren't out, and nothing works. I have also tried to reprogram both keys and neither of them unlock the doors.
I think that it might have something to do with the anti-theft system, since I didn't touch anything while changing out the alternator.
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I just bought this car in it's current state. I got a really good deal on it so I wasn't too concerned that it wouldn't start. And I did a compression test before I bought it which had really good results.
It's starting up pretty effortlessly. and its really consistent how it goes up to 2000, and then dies. I though it might be the immobilizer but the light turns off like it should.
The previous owner claims it was rebuilt 40k miles ago professionally. I think I believe it. the car has 210,000 miles and 190 psi compression.
It also has a bunch of preventative maintenance done to it. waterpump, timing belt, thermostat, clutch, lightweight flywheel. What it could be? it's got to be something simple. I'm pretty sure this engine is nearly flawless
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I just replaced my radiator in my vr6 jetta. I've replaced my coolant before, with this same problem,but it never affected anything and did not find any answers. But here's the deal. It filled with about 2 gallons of mixed coolant. No noticeable air bubble sounds, coolant flows back into the reservoir. I opened my top rad hose and poured coolant in also. It is not overheating. My heater is also hot, no problems there. It just seems suspicious that my car takes so little coolant, and runs just fine. I also flushed the system with my garden hose, and let all the water drain out.
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Monday get CEL with codes p0722 and p0322. Car is in limp mode during these codes. Yesterday I change g68 sensor. Cleared codes, rough start but was sitting most of the week. Drove around fine, no limp mode, shifted fine. Started up a few times immediately after. Hours go by I go to leave and it won't turn over though it sounds its wants to. No clue why this is happening or what changing the sensor could have done. This is a 01 GLS 2.0 auto. Not sure where to from here especially since it drove so well afterwards.
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So I replaced my thermostat today... to do that I unhooked the negative terminal of the battery, removed the hose off the thermostat housing (I think that's what it's called) and disconnected the switch to the alternator as well as take off the 13mm jam nut holding the wire to the side of the alternator. I reconnected everything up, put the key into the ignition and just turned it before starting the car and the alarm started going off. I disabled the alarm from controlling the lights and horn by unplugging the electrical connector just behind the fuse panel so I could do some errands today. I then disconnected both terminals on the battery and touched them together to reset the ecu.
After reading that holding the key into the door lock until the windows roll down would reset the alarm; this weekend I'm going to hook up my driver side door lock mechanism (been a little lazy) and give that a try.
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I replaced the knock sensor because I was getting the p0327 for the front knock sensor. Drove it again and still sputtering and CEL came back. What are other causes of this? N75 solenoid? Low fuel pressure?? It has a spectre air filter kit on it. Didn't know if this would do it. I cleaned maf. Just put new plugs in it too.
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