Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 - Engine Light Flashing And Car Jerking When Accelerate
May 20, 2014
2002 Jetta 2.0.... car was jerking when accelerating and check engine light was flashing, severe loss of power and when stopped at lights it would shake and the rpms would drop and go back up... took it in and was told to get the coil pack replaced. One week later new coil pack - check engine light is back on and yesterday same problem (car was idling rough, and severe jerking/flashing check engine light happened again). Took it to autozone to read the code it is giving P0420.... The shop said i might need new plugs and wires, which were replaced with bosch parts one year ago. Any chances these went bad so quickly?
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This morning i went to start my car and threw a flashing engine light. common sense says its a misfire. i know it's probably smart to check my spark plugs first but here's my dilemma. if it isn't the plugs and turns out to be my ignition coil, where the hell is that even located? I have an 04 Jetta 2.slow engine
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I have a 2003 vw golf, 5 speed. check engine light flashes after a big rain. The mechanic has replaced the fuse box and spark plugs, but the problem continues.
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So my gf's check engine light on her 01 Golf flashes once in a while, and it misfires. But the thing is, it doesn't stay on, and it's once in a while (like once or twice a week). She has new spark plugs, and new wires. I have a feeling it's the coil pack, but I really don't know if it needs to be replaced until the check engine light actually stays on.
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Just a few days ago I was driving and I noticed as I went over 35 mph my car would stutter and the check engine light would start flashing. And when I slowed back down the car drove fine. I'm wondering what the problem could be? Feels like the car is losing power. Car is currently at 119k miles.
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The car is a 2002 VW Jetta, automatic 1.8t GLS. 146k miles on it. Has an external amp/sub wired up by my brother who is an MECP certified tech and has been doing car audio and overall Audi/VW for years.
I was driving, nothing out of the usual, this car is my daily. Stopped because of traffic and my car died in the middle of traffic, the gauges (tach, speedo, gas, etc) spiked immediately, which I assumed meant loss of electricity, but my radio, headlights and everything else stayed on. The oil and Battery lights came on as well. Tried to start it, it was trying to start, and was cranking quickly, but wouldn't turn over. I got it out of traffic. I pulled my amp power and the car turned over and started driving like normal, so i figured there had been a short in the wire and that was what caused my issue. Drove about a half mile down the road, car shut off again, car said it needed oil this time. checked the oil, there was plenty, but i put more in to be safe, and it turned right over and i managed to drive it about 30 minutes and got it back to my house.
So, my brother and i look the car over, couldn't find anything really wrong with it, so we took it out for a drive, no problem at all for the first few minutes of driving. Car shuts off again, doing the same thing, but just the battery light came on. My brother jumped my car, it turned over, but as i started to drive it, it was a lot more rough with shifting (possibly tied to electrical problems because i know there is a solenoid cluster for automatic transmissions), i mean you could actually hear the gears shifting and the car was kicking through each gear, as well as my driver side headlight not turning on (just installed brand new xantec 6k 55w HIDs, but i dont think those are the problem because the problem started before i installed the HIDs) and died 3 more times before i got it home, having to jump the car every single time with symptoms the same as the first time it died without the oil light. Another thing i noticed is that the car seemed to only die when i hit the brakes and the car went to low RPMs, which lead me to believe a major vacuum leak. At idle the car also seemed like it was misfiring even though the CEL was not flashing, it just had the jerking feeling and sound of misfiring.
My brother and i take a better look into the bay area, and noticed that the top of my engine was covered in oil, from the intake manifold back. I know my car has been leaking oil, but not spraying it. We pulled everything apart, totally cleaned the engine bay area out including MAF, spark plugs, coil packs etc. The engine bay area looked practically brand new. Now i do know that my car has had a vacuum leak (no boost gauge to tell how bad, but the brakes were a little bit less responsive and the car was acting as though it was misfiring despite the fact that the coil packs and spark plugs are brand new) and we couldn't find where it was, and we thought that maybe that was the problem. A lot of the vacuum line was dry rotted and falling apart and some parts weren't even connected anymore from that, which we replaced all of the line we could find to eliminate the idea of a vacuum leak causing the car to die when i hit the brakes. We also tested the battery with a multi-meter which read variably between 13.8-14 V, which if i understand correctly is within normal range, but oddly enough we put the battery through a stress test including turning on defrosted, turning sound system back on, headlights on etc, and the voltage didn't read much different, still bouncing between 13.8-14.
When tearing things apart, we also found that the starter solenoid was unbelievably loose due to a bad transmission mount, and one bolt was missing, so we were thinking that could be arcing causing the problems, but when the solenoid was tightened down, the problems still persisted.
Started the car, let it warm up, and it seemed perfectly fine. I drove it into town without problems, but forgot my wallet at home, so i had to turn around and go back. Almost made it home, the car died while stopping at a stop sign. Tried turning it back over, nothing the first 3 times, let it sit for about 5 minutes and the car turned right over as if nothing was wrong. Died again when i made it into my driveway about 0.5 miles away and the symptoms repeated until the car finally just turns on like normal now, but the idle is at 1100 RPMS (not sure if related or not) even though the car is at the optimal temperature. I tried driving it again after the car starts normally like it does now, but it just repeats the symptoms that it has been, cutting off but leaving the stereo, headlights etc on. I managed to get it back in my driveway.
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My standard 2002 accent is undriveable and at the mechanic right now (100,000km). For the past few weeks the car has driven very jerky. While in first and second gears if i accelerate too quickly it just jerks/slips and has very little power.
Yesterday the check engine light came on and i got codes P0300, P0302, P0303...misfire in cylinders 2 and 3. Checked this forum and decided to buy new spark plugs (last replaced plugs and wires 1.5 years ago). Got into the car and could go more than a block because it was jerking and then kept stalling. Replaced the sparkplugs and nothing changed. Had it towed to the mechanic...after a few hours he said he had cleaned the exhaust manifold and it was driving fine. I picked it up and a block away it stalled again.
The mechanic now says 3 of my fuel injectors need to be replaced and the fourth will probably go soon and it will be about $700 to fix. Does this sound right for these codes?
I called hyundai parts and they told me each injector is $236...he also told me he doubted they had to be replaced cause he has never seen an accent have fuel injectors replaced and also they rarely sell these injectors, he said it was probably something electrical.
I have found 4 injectors on ebay for $200 but is this really the problem? The mechanic says it is 100% the problem. But from reading the forum I dont think so.
Also wanted to add that i often noticed the smell of burning plastic. Smoke seems to be coming from spark plug area when i notice the smell but nothing looks burnt/melted.
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I have a 02 gti with 1.8t and tiptronic trans. Anyways my gf said she was driving and traction light/battery light came on car started slowing down when she tried to accelerate. Said brakes were stuff to and car shut off..what would cause this. I had a maf code over the weekend i cleared.
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I have a stage 2 2002 GTI with 135k & I'm having an issue once in a while where if I go WOT the car will only boost up to about 5 (around there, don't remember) psi but if I let go and accelerate again, it'll boost normally again.
No lights or CEL comes on when it happens though. I tried searching for any info but not sure what direction to look at. I have a stock K03S, Forge DV, 3" Turboback, Short Ram Intake, FMIC. Bad N75 or DV?
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I'm new to the VW world and just bought a 2002 Jetta 1.6SR about two weeks ago. I just realized that when I turn the ignition on before cranking, all the lights come up except the CEL and traction control light. There are no codes stored when we checked it with a scanner. I took apart the cluster today to check if someone had taped in front of the LED but there was nothing, and the LED was intact, it just won't light up! I put everything back together and when I turned the ignition on.
I realized that the traction control light came on for the first time but still nothing for the CEL. I turned ignition off and on again, this time both the traction control and CEL didn't come on. Whenever I unplug the cluster and install it again, the traction control light will come on once, then if I turn the ignition off then on again, it will stop working. I even removed the MAF sensor to test the CEL but it never came on! All the fuses are intact as well... So my question is, is this a faulty cluster, LED, or is something wrong with my ECU?
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Why my 2002 volkswagen jetta station wagon is jerking, resetting the clock, flashing all the indicators on the dash, and Its stalling. When it start it to drive the transmission won't shift until it runs for about 5-10 minutes. One mechanic said the computer keeps resetting itself. The dealer said I needed a new transmission, but after 5 minutes the transmission shifts. It only has 117,000 miles.
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Well today I was happy go lucky on my way to work everything was going fine then all of a sudden this car in front of me slows down. Okay then I go to speed back up and my car was still crunk but I lose power I could not accelerate at all. So I had to coast to the side of the road and I put the car in park to see if it will allow me to accelerate in a different gear and when I do that.
The car shuts off then I go to crank it back up the first time and I got nothing then I wait a couple of seconds then try it again. It cranks up but still cant accelerate until I raise the engine then I can finally move. I was able to do about 65 mph to get to work but this happened two more times before I got back home that night. The car is a 2000 and has 220,000 miles on it.
I took the car to a part store to see why the service engine light was on. They told me it was a bad or faulty EGR valve but this was the first time the service engine light has flashed before.
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I purchased a 2002 gti in Febuary with 161k miles. I believe it was a couple weeks after I bought it - it started making this creaking sound. At first it was more rare to hear it but it occurred going on uneven surfaces like up a steep hill or around an uneven turn or even stopping and going. It basically happened when the front end pitched up/down. It sounds almost like a rubber creaking or even plastic. (Some sort of bushing maybe? I'm no expert) Now it is rare for it not to make the creaking when taking off or slowing to a stop. It only occurs at lower speeds like right when taking off or at the very end of the stop right before the actual stop.
It will even slightly make the noise when accelerating in second gear right after shifting. (This is occasional) When I come to a complete stop and turn the wheel side to side ot will make the sound for a couple of turns and then go away. I have tried rocking the car and pushing down on it to replicate the sound. No luck. I lubricated various bushings and parts with silicon. It seemed to fix it but it only lasted for a few hours. (This could've been coincidental) It doesn't make the sound 100% of the time though. Probably at least 90% though when coming to a stop and going. It seems as the environmental factors (Temp and humidity) have a small effect on the creaking. I have a neuspeed 25mm front swaybar with endlinks.
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I have a 2002 golf MKIV GTI and the hazard lights will flash whenever I pull the emergency break. Sometimes the emergency brake light won't go on when I pull it up but once the light engages the hazards will flash on, also I think it might have something to do with my car not shutting off sometimes. I will remove the key but the engine won't turn completely off unless I press the brake pedal but only if the emergency light is on is when that happens.
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My 2002 Jetta GLS 2.0 is misfiring only when it rains out. I go to start the car and the car idles extremely rough and seems like it wants to die. I checked out the codes for the check engine light and I got misfire codes p0304 and p0300. Which is a general misfire detected, and misfire on cylinder 4. I noticed that when I misted the alternator during the day around 70 degrees with the car running the car would misfire and almost die out. I know you are not supposed to get the alternator wet, but keep in mind i did not soak it I misted water on it. I misted the coil pack and nothing happened. I replaced the spark plugs and wires a few days ago. But as soon as it rains my car does not idle right and the check engine light flashes.
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I have the following code's P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306
I have change all spark plug and coil and it still their.
As soon as i go off throttle the check engine start flashing and then when I go on throttle again the car is jerking and got no power.
After a time the check engine light stay on full time and I have big power loss.
I have check for leaks spraying start pilot on every intake junction to see if I had a leak ( engine should rev from sucking start pilot) doesn't seams that I got a leak.
So I'm thinking of the following:
- Bad Maf
- Bad fuel pump
- Bad driveter valve
- injector. But 6 failing at same time would be strange
- cam sensor
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Here's my question. Recently my muffler fell off the back of my car and was dragging on the ground. The front bracket had snapped off and so had the pipe right where it comes out of the front of the muffler. I want to replace with the stock oem muffler but i can't afford it right now. My question is can i just take the muffler off for the time being so it wont drag on the ground? Will this harm the engine or be completely absurdly loud? Is this even legal....
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The Electronic Power Control light in my 1999.5 Jetta GLS VR6 came on a day or two ago. Now it hesitates like crazy even after I've already pulled out and am trying to accelerate. Is there any common problem/malfunction that would cause the light to come on, and is there any correlation between the light and this symptom? Also, the check engine light came on.
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Really weird thing is going on with my 03 1.8t Jetta, sometimes when I am driving the battery light will come on. It will turn off when I slow down but will turn back on as soon as I accelerate. After a while of this happening I will hear a burst of air and the car will jerk back a little bit then drive perfectly normal. I've looked all over google and posted in a local Euro car group`and haven't found anything.
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My Jetta wagon with 131K on it has a ping when I accelerate hard. I know it's not bad gas, but probably a carbon buildup. I've done a few seafoams that had some effect, but not much. I'm gonna do the water spray/steam next. Which components are prone to carbon buildup in these gassers that would cause ping?
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I was driving around and I got a low oil light flashing and it turned off straight away.
So I checked my oil. When I first removed the dipstick it shows full, wiped it clean and put it back and it showed empty.
I put have a bottle (small one can't remember size) of oil in. I drove around parked waited a bit, and it does this same thing.
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