Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 - Differences Between The O2J Transmission Codes?
Jun 11, 2016
Long story short is that I need to replace the 5 speed transmission in my 2002 AWP Jetta. I believe it has the EHA transmission in it from the factory, but what are the differences between the different transmission codes? Better question, can I swap any O2J transmission into my Jetta?
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i have a 2000 jetta 2.0 i am in desperate need of a new transmission. Ever since I bought the car I rarely had third gear and today on my way from southeastern PA to northwest Ohio seem to pretty much completely lost first unless I really slam it in and fifth likes to disengage every now and then unless I hold the shifter in place both first and fifth were slowly giving me problems until it got really bad after todays 8 hour drive. My transmission code is EBP, is there any other codes I can put in my car from another 2.0 or do I have to get another EBP?
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I am charged with caring for a 2002 VW Jetta, V6, automatic transmission, on which I am reading error codes P0030 and P0811 with Malfunction Indicator Light on. The car has 82k miles on it.
P0030 seems to be for Bank 1 Sensor 1, but I have not found an authoritative source. I am seeing P0811 being discussed mainly with relation to manual transmissions, but there are mentions of some sensors, and even ATF, as independent causes. I believe the ATF was changed less 5k miles ago, but I need to confirm. The ATF was extremely dirty at the time.
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I have a '02 Jetta Wagon with 180k miles. The plastic coolant pipe on the side of the head had been weeping (as they do) and I decided to replace it last night. The pipe replacement went smoothly and uneventful. When I removed the pipe as usual a normal amount of coolant spilled from the head down onto the trans area. After the replacement, I hosed down the top of the tranny with the garden house. I then took the car out for a drive.
First thing I noticed that my CEL was off (it had been on for a small emissions leak) and that seemed odd. Then about quarter mile down the road I noticed she was not shifting. It would hit maybe 30 at 3000 rpm and just stay there. So I pulled over and turned her off and looked under the hood...all seemed well. Started it back up and the CEL comes on right away. I drive and still stuck in gear.
I get home and run a cheap CEL check and get 00281 and 00652. Which seems to be fault codes for the VSS G68 sensor. So I check my connectors, take apart and make sure they are clean and dry...all seems good. I clear the codes and start it up and codes are right back again and stuck in gear.
It is late so lat thing I do is check the resistance of the G68 and get pins 1-2 800ohm, pins 1-3 800ohm, pins 2-3 1600ohm. I also check pins on G38 and get 1000ohm there.
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2002 vw Jetta sportwagon automatic trans, 151k, no previous issue with the transmission like this. the new issue is that the transmission is slipping at 20mph. what I would guess is 2nd to 3rd (3rd-drive)gear, the transmission "slips" and over revs, I take my foot off the gas and it engages.
I have no more issue accelerating after that. it only happens at exactly (on the speedo) 20mph. hopefully it is only a transmission fluid issue.
As a sidenote. my car will periodically lose power when the engine is cold with no rhyme or reason. the car power drops (on a flat or an incline) for about 2sec then back to normal. its been happening for a year or so.
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So the trans on my '02 GTI 1.8T has started doing this exciting new thing where it won't shift out of first gear for a few minutes when it's cold. I had attributed this mainly to that pesky valve body everyone talks about and hadn't got around to doing anything yet, when something new happened.
I noticed that if I turn right within a minute of the transmission "starting to work again", it'll slip out of gear again. There's one turn it always happens on, an uphill right-hander down the street from home.
Anyway, is it possible that this transmission has had some fluid loss? I know they're supposed to be "no maintenance" ( lol ) but I've had the engine rebuilt in the last year and maybe the shop borked something while they were down there?
What are the possibilities here?
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I have a 2002 1.8T tiptronic with around 150k Kms. Recently, the transmission has started slipping, more so when at running temperature than when cold. It feels like when a certain amount of gas is applied is when it starts slipping. It can slip immediately after 3-4 and 4-5 with continued acceleration, or will constantly slip while in 5th if trying to drive at speeds greater than 90 km/h (with very gradual acceleration to that point).
Does this sound like a clutch wear issue requiring a new transmission, or more like a valve body issue?
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I've seen a copy of the order guide, and I still can't figure out what the differences between 2015 and 2016 GTIs is going to be. Maybe I'm not reading it correctly, but it doesn't look much, if any different.
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Okay I have a 2000 Jetta GLS VR6. I had the engine replaced after i found out the block was cracked when replacing the heater core. ever since it was replaced the car runs great but it keeps throwing these 4 codes.
p1424 secondary air injection system bank 1 leak detected -intermittent
p0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected
p1603 internal control module failed self test -intermittent
p0134 02 sensor bank 1 sensor no1 no activity -intermittent
The thing that is bugging me is that the sai pump is still running. On cold start it literally sounds like a Dyson vacuum. What i should try.
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2002 7.3 4R100 ... The truck started flashing the O/D light pulling a 9K lb trailer on the highway.
The transmission codes read were P0705 (Range Selector) and P0873 (bad 3-4 shift - RPMs did not drop).
On the highway, the TCC seemed to lock up fine in 4th (OD button was set to leave O/D ON). When the truck would downshift (not often) then it would sometimes would rev high when it downshifted. It was like 3rd was slipping or it was downshifting into 2nd instead of 3rd. I think it was doing a 4-2 downshift but not 100% sure.
What confuses me is that if it is doing a 4-2 downshift then it would have to change state of both valve body solenoids. Is it possible that it was doing a 4-3 shift but solenoid was sort of sticking? Trans fluid looks fine.
I have read other posts where people had same problem (titled 3rd gear slipping), but they never seemed to resolve the problem in the thread. How likely is it that the solenoid is the problem? It seems to drive fine in 3rd when the O/D OFF button is pressed and O/D is not allowed.
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I have a 2001 1.8t beetle and doing some research to buy parts I came across two different engine codes. My trunk says I have a AWV engine but the cylinder head says AWM. This is really confusing as looking them up I get three entirely different options for this car.
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I recently had an issue with a coolant leak. the Y shaped coolant line connection went bad located under the power steering reservoir. The car got hot and the coolant light came on i immediately turned the car off and saw coolant leaking out from this.
Now today I start my car it has a rough idle and dies once it dies it doesn't start again and the epic light comes on throwing the codes
17579 P1171 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Range/Performance
17951 P1543 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too Low
16497 P0113 Intake Air Temp.Circ High Input
17987 P1579 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation not started
17953 P1545 Throttle Pos.Contr Malfunction
17976 P1568 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. mechanical Malfunction
18012 P1604 Internal Control Module Driver Error
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My gf's 04 gti 1.8t 5spd is having idling issues. Here's the rundown, at idle it sits at 800 rpm but when given a rev it then becomes erratic and fluctuates between 500-1100 rpm. When throttled again lightly it returns to normal 800 rpm idle. The car will try to stall a little bit. Now for the codes and lights. The lights are the traction control light and the check engine light. The codes are p0102 (MAF) and p2181 (coolant system performance). I have recently had a misfire which I took care of with 4 new coil packs. I kept the 3 good ones I took out. I have to change the plugs still but don't think it's an issue. Has new clutch and sits at 148,852 miles.
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Throwing 2 codes -
P0172: too rich
P1176: post cat 02 reached limit
Last time it turned on it had horrible air flow, it felt as though it was choking. definitely not a misfire. occasionally after spirited driving the engine would die after I came to a complete stop then worsened to cutting off when I put the clutch in at high rpms. also have a slight loss of power. I also recently added a 3" tbe and changed coil packs.
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This isnt my first vw but its my first vr6, its a 2000 gti glx, only showing codes for o2 sensors havent got a vag com yet only have a obd scanner. It idles fine and runs smooth until i get over quarter throttle then it starts hesitating like there isnt enough fuel or air...i know that the noob owner i bought it from cheaply put exhaust on it and i didnt see any o2 sensors but ive never known a car to not run correctly without them.
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So my car has been dropping multiple codes after I scanned her and found all five: p0303, p1128, p0172, p1300, p0301. She is just a simple five speed AEG and has no mods other than a SRI. I already replaced the MAF but that ended up causing more codes and I have checked the vacuum lines to no avail.
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I was having an issue with my car not going into boost so I plugged my code reader in and it had 2 codes 1 was p1200 n249 malfunction and the other was diverter valve malfunction so I did the quick easy one and got a new factory diverter valve but it still doesn't go into boost and still reads p1200 n249 what do I need to replace or should I do the n249 bypass it's a bone stock jetta 5 speed.
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1.8T ... Failed smog test, then got PCV hoses repaired. Now I'm failing because the OBD readiness codes won't reset. I've driven over 100 miles and the shop that fixed it said to "just keep driving it" but that they have no other solution to get those codes to reset. Any tips to those codes to ready?
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Alright I might have made a major mistake and I need some input; I just recent bought a 2001 Jetta VR6 131k on it and at first I didn't notice so much but since I've gotten. To drive it more I've noticed it's really sluggish on take off and doesn't seem to shift into 4th gear. Also I started noticing a faint rattling noise. And the CEL is on with the codes P0785, P0411 and P1151.
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So recently I took my engine apart to do a valve cover gasket and Ecs tuning 2.0 coil conversion. I noticed a good amount of oil in the plug tubes so I got out my trusty soap dispenser and started pumping out oil. Pulled plugs and cleaned them (wanted to make sure oil was all out b4 getting new) also while I had it apart I wanted to take intake off, ( just to polish it and clean out any carbon inside).. Well I never ended up doing that. I removed the injector connections and realized it was to much work for such little satisfaction. So I plugged the injectors back in.
I got my car all back together and now I'm throwing 6 cel codes!! P0102 (maf) which I'm assuming b.c I took it off for so long, p0201, p0202 ( injector 1 and 2 miss), then some misfire codes p0300 (random) p0301 (cylinder 1) and p0304 (cylinder 4). The car starts runs very rough then cel comes on and blinks. I was thinking maybe the oil getting down to the combustion chamber couldn't be the best for it but it would just burn off. Only other thing I did was take off the thottle body and cleaned it.
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My car is not boosting. I had two codes p0238 and p0106...
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