Why my 2002 Jetta 1.8t does this?
After I drive for a while I have to [slowly] open the overflow cap and relieve pressure in order to not lose coolant while the car sits. It steams for a bit when I open the cap and then the coolant rises in the reservoir then I close it.
If I don't do this then the car loses coolant but I don't see any leaks visible under the car.
So it was like -10 here today, and I've had a coolant leak which could be the crack pipe? It's coming from the center of the motor and covering the oil filter housing. Anyway I've been adding distilled water until I could get coolant. So today I went out and the coolant reservoir was slushy ice. So I open the drain and drained a bunch out then added some coolant while it was draining to work along with running the engine a short time with the drain open and that got it flowing out. So I drained just about all fluid and put the half gallon I had leftover of g13 . Tomorrow I will go get more coolant. So the question is did I ruin my motor? Crack the block or heads? Should I fill the rest with 50/50 mix? When I ran the car it held operating temp just fine but the fan wasn't blowing warm.
View 4 RepliesI have a MK4 2.0L 8v 5 speed and recently I started making trips out to the country that last a bout 25 minutes one way and I usually drive pretty spirited the whole way.
I recently noticed that after each trip my coolant reservoir drops significantly, about 1/2" or 3/4". The oil level never changes and the engine never passes 90C on the gauge.
The outside temperature is about -10C most of the time and I always have it at operating temps before I really get into it.
I can't decide if this is normal because the engine isn't overheating (as far as the gauge says) or a problem because it's using a lot of coolant. I've never been to a track with this or any other car so I'm not sure about the effects from hard driving.
The engine revs to 6.2k RPM and I never go over 5k.
So this weekend my Y-fitting for the coolant hose (coming out of the reservoir) broke, literally after arriving at my friends house about 50 miles from home.
I "mended" it, and decided to try to take it home, as it is my daily. Temperature would get high, but not into the red, and drop back down. On the final rise, it got a bit too close to red for comfort. I drove about 25 miles, and my coolant light was on the majority of the time. The last 3-5 miles, my oil light came on. When I went to pull off the road, I pushed in my clutch and my car died. My first assumption was a head gasket (as I have been there before.
I open the hood and coolant is pouring out of my "mended" y-fitting. I check under the car - no oil, just coolant. The oil didn't seem to be "milky," but there seemed to be some sort of condensation on the filler cap. I checked the dipstick - not milky, just liquidy. I added some oil to the car, and had a friend bring some distilled water, and did a little bit better job of mending my fitting. I poured the distilled water in, and it started boiling almost immediately. I let the car cool for a couple hours and tried to start it, but nothing.
There's no white smoke, but the car just "puts" for a few cranks, and then it goes back to cranking. Looking around the engine housing, there doesn't seem to be any oil; but my car has a lot of grease on the block, so it's hard to say.
I did some searching, and it seems that it could be the oil cooler? I don't have the tools for a compression test, and the car was towed to a gas station, which is about 30 mins from my house.
The car is a 2004 Jetta, 1.8T Manual with the 5-speed.
I checked the coolant level on the reservoir and it was low.
I decided to add coolant by removing the radiator pressure cap, however, the coolant fluid is full under this cap.
So my question is where should I add coolant? through this cap or the reservoir?
Just finished doing my own heads on my 2005 Excursion 6.0L. Turned it on with really no problems. After running for about 5 min. it started smoking. I also noticed that I had some pressure in the coolant reservoir. I toke off the cap and it stopped smoking. I placed it back one and it started to smoke again. Oil has water now. I used ford head gaskets and ARP bolts. I torqued the bolts down to ARP's specs and torque pater, 210 lbs/ft. I also replaced the oil cooler, stand pipes, stc and the dummy plugs. Also from Ford. I don't know where I went wrong.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford Mustang V6. Recently after driving and turning the car off the coolant has been spilling out through the cap of the coolant reservoir. The car drives fine and does not overheat so it appears the cooling system works while driving. I have not identified any visible leaks and the heat inside the car works. I have replaced the coolant reservoir cap, thermostat, and thermostat casing.
View 4 RepliesIm having problems with my brakes mainly being pedal pressure. It's really really soft and has no bite till near the bottom which could be due to the res being low on fluid since both rear calipers seem to be leaking from the handbrake mechanism. When I got my car safetied they fixed my handbrake but I think they put the adjuster to tight cause I felt more rub then what I thought was normal but could be completely wrong. Not to mention this starting happening the day after I got it safetied
the handbrake bracket didn't retract like the other side but since then I loosened the compensator and pulled both side handbrake lines off and retracted the handbrake bracket by hand so now it looks like the right side.
I have an 02 Jetta 1.8t automatic with about 140k miles. It has always been a great car. Last week, I was taking off from being stopped at a light and I heard a loud beep and saw that my oil pressure warning light was blinking! It blinked 3 times and then was gone, now last week temperatures were very low for my area. Today was actually pretty warm and sunny. I was stuck in gridlock traffic, it took me 25 minutes to go 1/4 mile. Idle, Idle, creep forward... Idle, Idle, creep forward...etc.
I noticed that the temp gauge read over 200, not in the red, but too close for my liking. Then a moment later when it was time for me to move up a bit, there was a beep and then that low oil pressure light again, 3 blinks and gone. I was panicked. I shut my engine off while I waited for traffic to move and when I would move forward it was the same thing. I finally pulled over, as I was stuck in traffic about 1000 feet from a friends house. I stayed there for 4 hours and then decided to fire her up again. Totally normal.
40 Minutes later as I rolled into my driveway, boom there was that light blink again... I am really concerned but confused by the light not staying on continuously and not having the check engine or any other warning light ever come on. It's weird to me that when this happens I am either taking off or coming to a stop, never going more than 5mph.
I bought my GTI used and don't know what software its running but I have some questions about the boost pressure. When I'm in Idle the car will only boost to about 7-10psi when i rev the engine in neutral, But when I'm driving it will boost all the way to about 17-20psi if I really stomp it, 15psi if I'm just giving it a bit of "go". The car takes off and goes really quick, seems like it has a lot of power so I doubt there's a boost leak but I'm wondering does the car boost differently in Idle because it knows its not moving?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Golf 1.8T and while driving the oil pressure light turns on and the meter goes beyond the midpoint. I brought it in to a shop and they told me I need to change the oil pump and will cost $900. They told me it's because I don't frequently change oil and once the new oil is in, it caused the problem and only way to drive the car again is to replace the oil pump.
View 19 RepliesI noticed today when I was in a drive thru that ,y Jetta was smoking a little.... Went home ate my food and came out and looked underneath the Jetta and found a substantial coolant leak..... My heater core is bad I know this already... Would this cause coolant to leak outside the car or the carpet only??? I jacked up the car and checked for leaks... There is coolant all over the rear engine mount... And the driver side corner of the engine is pretty soaked in coolant....I can't pin point the leak..... There is a connection coming out of the side of the head that's got a little pinky crusty stuff on it but I can't see anywhere around it...
View 5 RepliesMy 2000 jetta glx is leaking coolant fast enough to empty the reservoir from full in about 10 minutes but only does it while running. Why this is or what I should look at fixing?
View 2 RepliesIt has 197k and change.It's not throwing any codes whatsoever. I can drive it all day and it wont overheat as long as I keep it under 2000 rpm.If I take it over 2000 rpm, it slowly heats up, but I can cool it down by slowing down. I can do like 50 mph max without it threatening to overheat. I've never let it get above 3/4 without pulling over and letting it cool off (I know how heads like to warp and crack).
Rubbery sludge in coolant reservoir (almost positive it's oil) but absolutely NO coolant in the oil, there never has been. I do all the oil changes myself and check it quite often. I've been keeping the reservoir full but it loses coolant daily (no leaks on ground anywhere, ever. I've already removed the reservoir and cleaned it out several times, but since it has more than one chamber it's almost impossible to fully clean without replacing. The hose that runs from the top chamber to the bottom blows off from time to time (I finally put hose clamps on it). I've flushed the cooling system several times but still the sludge comes back. I've removed and cleaned the thermostat (still good) and housing (had very little sludge). I flushed out the heater core but the heat is still weak.
Makes a loud whistling noise at idle, the noise literally stops every time I give it gas. (this is where I was thinking Intake Manifold Gasket, maybe vacuum leak) You gotta love these plastic manifolds. BUT it's idling low (650 rpm once fully warmed up) not bogging or sputtering whatsoever. Fans are working completely fine. It loses oil but again, no leaks on the ground whatsoever. I thought at first it was burning it (high mileage, worn piston rings) until I noticed the coolant reservoir was gunked (wasn't very long and I know I didn't mix different kinds. I check everything (more than regularly) and it loses quite a bit of oil.
Before everyone says head gasket, it isn't losing much power (if any at all), no white exhaust, and as mentioned before there's no coolant in the oil.Whatever it is, I can repair it myself but before I tear this thing a new one replacing gaskets and seals I'd like to be completely sure.
I got a 2002 GTI 1.8t , with about 109,xxx miles. Ran into a few problems, I took the hose off the fuel rail and turnt the key on. & noticed the fuel pressure was noticeable low & another problem i got is the car doesnt start most of the time. it takes about 3 or 4 cranks before it eventually tuns over. sometimes i noticed if i turn the key on and leave it for a minute or so itll start up. finally want to fix this POS. so I decided to run the codes & heres what i got
P0230
Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
CONFIRMED
P0341
Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Proformance B1
I have a 1987 jeep cherokee with inline 6 and multi port injection.
Sometimes this vehicle only starts when hot
Some times only when it cold
I have recently fixed the fuel leak.
When its hot or cold and not starting if i relieve the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, in most cases it will start immediately. However if fuel pressure relief does not work. I disconnect the vacuum line at the what looks to be the EGR valve or the pressure regulator at the front end of the rail, then usually starts right away.
I have not tested at this time to see if the fuel pump is failing nor have i tested fuel pressure. I am trying to narrow down the problem to one specific part. There is no problems with cranking. There is spark - coil, plug, dist cap have been replaced.
It seems the problem is with fuel delivery of sorts. It was mentioned that sometimes the heat from the engine could be heating the fuel rail to a point which turns the fuel into a gas not allowing it to atomize.
I have a mk4 Jetta 1.8t. Problem started last night. After I drive for about 15-20 minutes the oil pressure warning light comes on. It doesn't feel any different and my oil is full. Could my pump be going bad? I hear a slight tick near the bottom of the engine on the passenger side. But the car idles fine and drives fine too.
View 17 RepliesLast night while i was driving my car began to overheat. I could smell coolant burning. I pulled over and opened my hood. The coolant inside the coolant pod was boiling. Some coolant lines were steaming as well. I could also hear a gurgly like noise coming the engine. This is a 1.8t gti
View 3 RepliesI've had a issue since I've owned my 2015 purchased new that I didn't get a chance to take in again until recently. I have a little fluid that leaks out of the Hybrid coolant reservoir. This is not the one attached to the radiator for the ICE, I have an issue with the hybrid component one. When I first received my car the fluid was above the full level. After a few times wiping it up I stopped by and had the dealer remove the excess fluid from the reservoir until it was at the MAX line. After a little while I noticed some fluid continued to seep/leak out and I'm at the low line now. I recently took my car in again to take care of a few things before the bumper to bumper expires. When I received the car back I didn't fully review my paperwork until I got home. I saw the comment that "Normal characteristics of the Hybrid cooling system" ...
A second issue I have is I get a squeak sometimes when I start driving the car. Sounds like it's coming from the front wheel, it's not a constant squeak, but one that happens with each rotation of the wheel. They were unable to recreate the issue as it's random. Brakes were checked and no issue found. I'll have to see if I can get it to show the issue for the service rep.
02 v10 SD. I found a crack in the coolant tank on my 02 Superduty. It is below the radiator cap, just above the crack where it was sealed from the factory. It runs the length of the tank, about 2 and 1/2 inches, across the front top section. Its starting to seep through,but the radiator is still holding pressure. Have any of you with the older Superduty's had this happen to your trucks? What caused or is causing it. I called the Ford dealer tonight about a new one.
View 14 RepliesI'm about to tear into a friends 2002 B2300 4 cyl. The lower hose that comes off of the coolant reservoir is leaking in the metal part of the line. Close to where it bolts to the block. At a glance, it looks like I have to pull the whole top of the motor apart to get it off since the line runs around behind the motor. Is there a trick to removing this coolant line without a lot of teardown? I'm not finding it at parts stores so I guess it's a stealership part.
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