Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 - A/C And Both Fans Stopped Working?
Aug 24, 2016
So I just got a 2002 1.8t, everything was fine until the fans and ac stopped working. After poking around the forums a bit I changed the following:
1. Fan Control Module. Result: nothing
2. Radiator Cooling Fan Switch Temperature Sensor. Result: nothing.
all fan components have the correct voltage going to them. Fuse 16 for the AC clutch is not blown and has power going to it. The AC compressor has power going to it. The fuses on the battery box have power going to them specifically S180.
My question is what am I missing? is it possible that the fans themselves could be bad? car is not overheating, the after run coolant pump kicks on. But the AC clutch is not spinning nor are the fans. btw AC clutch is not seized up.
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A few days ago I was driving around. I get back in my car and when i turn it on no air blows and the radiator fans aren't working at all. My car hasn't overheated but have stopped driving until I can figure the issue out. I have since replaced the fuse box on top of the battery to no avail. I was thinking that it could possibly be the fan control module but in all the posts I am reading not one says that theirs don't work, they just keep running. So is there something else i should be looking at?
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
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I was having battery issues and had a friend hook up a battery charger to my car today. They pulled some relays to see if they could figure out why it was starting right. When I left for work the car started fine but I notice my windows would not roll down at all. I figured no biggie I would deal with it tomorrow.
When I got to work I realized my key fob had stopped working too. Again, I have a key will unlock it after work and deal with it later. After work tonight, I go to the car, I tried the key fob and nothing. No surprise. But I unlocked the driver door and it won't open, try to unlock the trunk it won't open.
I was told they pulled the relays and reseated them when messing with the battery. I can see a red light flashing below the radio. To top it off the keys to my other car are locked in the trunk along with my purse!
2002 Jetta Turbo 1.8....
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So I noticed my temp gauge was starting to rise when I was on the freeway. I figured my fans were out but I just opened my hood and both fans were spinning. When I turned the car off both fans turned off but the temp gauge was almost into the red.
In the morning I turned on my AC and only the passenger side fan was working.
So I am not really sure what my next diagnostic step should be. The engine was not radiating any heat so I am not sure that it is even actually running that hot. Could it possibly be the temperature gauge? If I got a vagcom would I be able to check the actual temperature from there?
I am also concerned on how to find out if the fans are running at both speeds at the appropriate times.
Not sure if this is related but my cruise control stopped working a few weeks ago also.
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I have a quick question, I got a 2005 mk4 gli, and when the cooling fans go on, only one works, the other one does not, I checked the fuse and its fine.
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So i have a 2002 1.8t that i got in december. Everything has been great so far untill the other day the car overheated on me in traffic. It was a bit warm out maybe 75-80 degrees. I saw the needle start to climb and then the light went on so i through the heat on full blast and it dropped the needle a bit and turned the light off long enough to pull off the highway. I let it cool down and checked things out. I am not low on fluid, an the fluid was changed within the last year with the vw recommended stuff. The radiator hoses are pressurized so i believe that the pump and thermostat are working. I am thinking it could have something to do with my fans. I tested them in my driveway by supplying them with 12v and the spun perfectly. It only happens when the car is standing still for a period of time. Driving at any speed is fine. Is there some sort of switch that tells the fans to turn on?
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I bought a 2002 gti mk4 with about 127000 miles on it .I did not know the turbo fans were blown out , they were sitting in my down pipe next to my catalytic converter . So I replaced the turbo myself , and 2 hours later the fans fell out of the new turbo , what might be the problem ? why it keeps blowing.
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I own a 2006 Prius with 52k miles on it. Great car BTW. The problem is simple, the radiator cooling fans stopped working on high mode; they run around 25% only even, not removing the heat from the a/c evaporator and the radiator coolant. I checked fuses: OK, checked relays: OK. They spin freely and nothing is blocking the front face of the evaporator. Funny I noticed it when I started hearing the a/c compressor buzzing noise and then I realized the fan noise wasn't there!
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A couple months ago my Key Fob stopped working. I tried using the button and then tried to use the key to unlock the door. I'm trying to figure out if there is a possibility that the immobilizer in my fob is junk or maybe its something as easy as changing the battery (which is another issue in itself because I cant open the fob for the life of me) Once again just curious if there is something I can do to fix this issue without contacting and dealing with the dealership. Would like to be able to lock my car again at some point.
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A few months ago I'm key fobs stopes working the I switched out the batteries and still no progress. What it could be?
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The reverse light has stopped working on my MKIV TDi. Done all the usual things I can like bulbs/fuses.
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The issue I am now experiencing is my passenger headlight would only turn on once in a while . The driver side headlight would work just fine both high beam light also . Today I opened my hood I verified the cable had a poor ground to the headlight I noticed a burnt smell after checking the cables . I turned on my high beams both sides turn on . Then out of no where my turn signals both (Left - right - back and front stopped working. Including the Hazard lights both front and back). The cluster would not show neither turn signals turning on ( left-right ) I noticed that my headlight turn signal on the passenger side would turn on but not blink it would stay dim only when . I pushed the hazard light button . My cluster would show the right turn signal ( no clicking no flashing arrow ). The driver side would not work either. What can I do to fix the problem? I know that I will not be able to drive the car due to the issue.
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The rear wiper on my wife's 20th stopped working the other day. I checked the fuse and it was fine. I pulled off the rear panel and got to the wiring. I don't have a Bentley so I'm not sure what wire does what. I tested the wires and the far left is a switch 12V and the far right is the ground. The center two didn't show any voltage with or without the wiper on. When should these wire see power? What else should I check?
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My blower motor in my Jetta recently stopped working. When I turn on the blower it works for 10 seconds or so then slows down and dies. Is this a blower motor or resistor problem?
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Last weekend my headlights, wipers, turn signals, AC, and horn stopped working. Through searching and another post I narrowed the issue down to my ignition switch. After taking apart my steering column and getting the switch out, I found this...
The house which is connected to the switch, with the one of the red wires obvious fried....
So I'm hoping this problem and I'm wondering who else has had this happen. When I took apart the ignition switch itself, nothing appeared to be damaged. No burns no broken pieces, etc. the metal post on the outside corresponding to the fried wire on the housing was corroded, but that was it.
I think I need to replace the housing since all that plastic melted and I chipped it away to get to the connector. I can't seem to get the connectors on the wire off of the metal connectors that are supposed to be in the housing.
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I have a 2000 VW Golf 2.slow. I have done some research from other threads but I'm wondering if mine is a simpler fix then testing all the wiring. After taking the car to Auto-Zone and having my battery and alternator tested they said the alternator was the problem. I had to wait a day to get paid to buy the alternator so I had them charge the battery. After I put the battery back in and started her up I got a flashing e-brake light, ABS light and no A/C. My A/C clutch compressor isn't kicking in either. I checked my brake fluid and it's fine as well.
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out of nowhere the right side of my cluster stopped working. The speedometer is completely dead and when ever i go around a cornor my gas guage drops to 0 and beeps. I haven't changed anything with the car and the only thing i e messed with recently was the valve cover.
Is there any wires close to the valve cover that could cause the cluster to short only on the right side?
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When driving in the rain, I've had the scary experience of the windshield wipers suddenly stop working. Maybe 30 seconds later, they start working again. I'm just glad the cars in front of me have had their lights on. It even seems that the wipers go the same speed no matter how fast I want them to. Also, the blades do rub against the windshield. Is it the linkage or should I simply replace the blades?
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Have a 2002 SC lariat with climate control. A few weeks ago, the system stopped blowing air. It seems the brains still work for temp control as I can adjust the temp and the natural flow air through the system will change temp.
I heard a sputtering noise from the fans a few weeks ago at about the time it quit. Is this because the servo motors for the fans quit or if it would be something from the controls?
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So the window switches and hatch release switch have decided they want to stop working. Along with actually locking my car from the inside or keyfob. I have checked all the fuses and the wiring looks to be intact. The hatch release switch doesn't work but the fuel door switch Does work. The passenger side window switch also isn't working and of course both Windows are down.
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