Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 1.8T - No Start After Alternator Cable And Fuse Box Replacement
Jun 29, 2015
I own a 2002 Jetta 1.8T now here is my story.
A week ago whiles driving lost power when accelerating, EPC light illuminates so I turned on my hazard light and limped home since I was far away from home. As I limped home, all the lights on the dash went off. I got home, shut engine off, restarted the car but car wont accelerate.
I popped the hood and saw the dreaded melted fuse box on top of battery with charred alternator cable. I ordered the fuse box and alternator cable and prepared to replace them.
I realized that with the driver side door open with no key in ignition, I could hear a clicking sound with inside lights blinking. Didn't worry because I believed it had to do with the melted fuse box and charred alternator cable. I noticed that the clock was off too.
I replaced.the fuse box and alternator cable. My battery is just a year old so when I tried starting the car and it won't crank, I tried to jump start it but no sound. Car won't start. Dead silence,no click nothing.
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I got my battery replaced Monday evening and drove it home. Tuesday it drove fine, and Wednesday afternoon the power steering went out on the road and the car pretty much died after I was able to pull into a neighborhood. Before it died all the warning lights kept flashing and a bunch of other stuff on the dashboard was going crazy.
The AAA tech came and did a reading on the battery and told me it was dead, and also noticed there was a mark on one of the terminals which he said was the result of someone trying to jump it (whether incorrectly or not, I'm not sure). All the settings in my car were also reset after I got the car back Monday night.
Anyways, I got the car taken to a dealership and they are telling me the alternator fuse is done and needs to be replaced, upon which they will do another check and make sure the alternator itself is working properly.
My question is, is this the result of the battery being put in improperly/incorrectly?
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I had a rebuilt alternator installed on Thursday and for the past two days when I start up the car there is a high pitch whine coming from what I believe is the alternator. Do some rebuilt alternators make noise when charging the batter after start-up? The alternator has a 3-year warranty and I'm going back to the shop tomorrow.
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After changing my dead alternator and resulting dead battery, I am having what seems to be electrical issues with my 2.8L VR6.
Neither of my keys can unlock or lock the car remotely and when I try to start the car, all the regular lights turn on in the dash, but the engine dosn't make a sound. Inside the car there is no power apart form the gauges, no windows, no AC, no sunroof, nothing. I have checked the fuses, unplugged the battery and plugged it back in, even changed the batteries in my keys to make sure that they weren't out, and nothing works. I have also tried to reprogram both keys and neither of them unlock the doors.
I think that it might have something to do with the anti-theft system, since I didn't touch anything while changing out the alternator.
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02 JettaVr6 auto tranny- car was running perfect, no CEL. Now all of a sudden the fuse keeps blowing out- what exactly is running off this fuse?
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I have a 2002 GTI 1.8T with the AWP engine and tiptronic. There is a fuse in the picture below that blows as soon as the car is started. It is located next to the brake booster on the firewall. It does not blow when the ignition is turned on, just when the engine actually starts. I'm not throwing a check engine light, pulling a scanner code or noticing any of my electronics not working. I took a 20 AMP fuse out and replaced with another 20.....and have since blown 5 of them trying to diagnose the problem.
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I have a vw jetta 2000 and U checked the check engine light fuse. Just took it out and put it back in. Now the car wont start, it maybe the security ignition cut-out ? Can I reset it myself, or do I have to take it to the dealer?
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Last week, I brought my 2002 Ford Focus (automatic transmission) to the mechanic to have an oil change and to have the motor mounts and cabin air filter replaced. Before I brought the car in, it was fairly loud at idle--which had been going on for a couple of years and which I attributed to the worn motor mounts--but had otherwise been running fine.
When I went to pick it up after the repairs, the car would not start. The mechanic ran some tests and told me that the alternator was overcharging the battery. The battery could no longer hold a charge, so both the alternator and the battery needed to be replaced, which the mechanic did.
I thought at first that everything was OK after the battery and alternator replacement. Because I almost always turn my car off immediately after putting it in park, I didn't realize what was happening and that it was a problem... but in retrospect, I realize that ever since I got the car back from this second set of repairs, the battery light has flashed on during the split second between when I shift to park and when I turn the ignition off.
Yesterday, I took my car back to the mechanic because it stalled when I was in the parking lot at work. (I realize now that it must have happened just after I shifted gears, probably into park.) Since that was the first time it had actually properly stalled--rather than just a quick battery light flash just before I turned the car off--I had not yet made the connection between the stalling and the shifting to park, so all I told the mechanic is that it stalled on me when I was slowing to a stop. I'm pretty sure the first time it stalled was the first time I let it idle for more than a half-second in park before turning off the ignition.
He kept my car for a full day and ran a lot of tests on it. He was unable to make the car stall during multiple test drives (though, to be fair, I hadn't told him that the trigger for making it stall was shifting to park because I didn't realize it myself yet). There were no engine codes, the check engine light was never on, the fuel pressure is OK, and the throttle body position sensor, the idle air control valve, the ignition system, and the fuel system were giving no abnormal readings. When I asked, he told me that they did perform an idle-relearn procedure after replacing the battery and alternator. He returned the car to me and told me to come back if it stalled again.
Tonight, when I got the car home, it started to die immediately when I put it into park (the headlights dimmed and the battery light came on). I was able to reproduce this a second time as well. Fortunately, it does start back up just fine.
I plan to take the car in for repairs again, but I'm wondering if I should go back to the same mechanic. My questions are:
1) What is likely to be causing the problem?
2) Is it something that is likely to have been caused by incompetence when installing the new battery and alternator or doing other repairs, or could it be a coincidence (I was willing to believe the first coincidence of the battery and alternator dying while the car was at the repair shop, but I'm having difficulty believing a second coincidence)?
3) Whether or not the problem is likely to be the mechanic's fault, is it something that a thorough check on their part should have discovered?
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The car was started and moved to its current location to have the alternator replaced.
After replacement the car will not start, turn the key and nothing.
When ignition is turned on everything on dash lights up like it should.
There are no trouble codes currently present on the vehicle except a flapper valve in the econ
The car did have the typical weak battery low voltage sporadic etc from the dead alternator causing the the vehicle to drain the battery.
A known good battery was jumped to the battery in vehicle. The vehicle battery reads just under 12 volts with VAD mobile. When known good battery is hooked up it is at 12 plus volts.
All fuses have been pulled and visually inspected to be good.
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I have a '02 Jetta Wagon with 180k miles. The plastic coolant pipe on the side of the head had been weeping (as they do) and I decided to replace it last night. The pipe replacement went smoothly and uneventful. When I removed the pipe as usual a normal amount of coolant spilled from the head down onto the trans area. After the replacement, I hosed down the top of the tranny with the garden house. I then took the car out for a drive.
First thing I noticed that my CEL was off (it had been on for a small emissions leak) and that seemed odd. Then about quarter mile down the road I noticed she was not shifting. It would hit maybe 30 at 3000 rpm and just stay there. So I pulled over and turned her off and looked under the hood...all seemed well. Started it back up and the CEL comes on right away. I drive and still stuck in gear.
I get home and run a cheap CEL check and get 00281 and 00652. Which seems to be fault codes for the VSS G68 sensor. So I check my connectors, take apart and make sure they are clean and dry...all seems good. I clear the codes and start it up and codes are right back again and stuck in gear.
It is late so lat thing I do is check the resistance of the G68 and get pins 1-2 800ohm, pins 1-3 800ohm, pins 2-3 1600ohm. I also check pins on G38 and get 1000ohm there.
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I purchased a 2006 Volkswagen Golf TDI from the auction that had blown passenger and drivers airbag. I replaced the dashboard and both airbags, as well as the airbag control module and now the vehicle won't start. It started fine before replacing it.
The only code I got before was the 18996 Prior to this as well as a bunch of airbag ones (obviously due to the air bags)
Now the codes I get are:
Friday,05,December,2014,16:52:12:61795
VCDS Version: Release 14.10.0 (x64)
Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-016-BEW.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 038 906 016 AG HW: 028 101 255 3
Component and/or Version: R4 1,9L EDC G000SG 7000
Software Coding: 0150031
[Code] ....
1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
I cleared all of these codes and 01314 and 17978 are cleared but still won't start so I'm sure its just a matter of time before those codes kick in again. I tried searching these codes and still can't figure it out from all my research. Hopefully I didn't miss connecting something during my dashboard replacement?
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I recently replaced a timing belt in a 2003 ALH TDI & since it will not start. When I took everything apart I found the belt extremely worn & the engine had actually slightly jumped timing. When I replaced the pulleys & belt & reset the timing to the way it would be from factory. When I tried to start the vehicle it turns over fine but will not catch. I double checked all the timing, fuel pump, everything - all okay. I can get it running with ether but will not start with diesel fuel. I also replaced the fuel filter, checked to make sure there was fuel at the injection pump but nothing works.
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Just got back from getting the famous alternator cable replaced and approx after the 3rd start I now have the exhaust light come on?
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My car has been having an issue with battery draw. when I don't drive it for 2-3 days the battery is drained enough for me to need my jump pack to start it. I have done a wire tuck on the motor and also have air ride. I hooked a wire up between the battery and the negative cable with a light connected and it lights up with the car off. What I have done so far is to pull each fuse in the door fuse panel individually and the light stayed on the entire time. Next I pulled the power feed to my air ride system out and the light flashes and I can hear what sounds like a relay clicking. If the issue were the air ride I would think disconnecting it would make the light go out.
I need to pull the fuse panel that was on top of the battery and pull those fuses out too. Should I try pulling the relays as well?
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Now I'm back and just picked myself up 2002 Golf GTI with fairly low kms for its year. Anyway when i test drove and checked through it all everything seemed fine. Basically she won't start 1/6 times. So for example of the amount of usage she had today:
AM - Drove to work this morning, started fine from cold (its just come into winter so probably around 12 degrees Celsius).
PM - Drove home from work, started fine from cold
Evening (3 hours approx. after driving home) - started fine from cold, drove 5 mins, stopped at gas station, started fine and drove another 5 min then stopped and parked.
After parking, i decided to move her closer to the building for security but when i cranked her she would turn over but not start. Tried this 2 or 3 times (probably flooded the engine).
After about 1 1/2, jumped backed in, started first time but took a few seconds to start with foot slightly on gas. Checked the fuel pump, i can hear it switching on so can rule that out.
I'm suspecting its a battery issue based on history (has had all the major service parts done timing belt, fuel pump etc) and for the majority of its life, its actually just sat in a garage, according to the dealer (old guy that lived and worked in the city owned it before me) and that this just needs replacing. The battery doesn't look old however under the bonnet it is stupidly clean so might not be an indication of anything.
I haven't had a flat battery for a while though but from what i remember, a flat battery just clicks or even struggles to turn over? Any simple things i can check myself? Just went downstairs to check fuel pump, thats switching on and car started fine 4 times in a row.
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I check fuse box , it miss one fuse in fr fog fuse.
I try fix and check all fuse in fuse box. but I don't know how unplug 12v cable (I see 12v cable red cover ) .
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I had a battery light come on and saw the alt wasnt charging my battery. So, I replaced the alt with a rebuilt hitachi. Well it was charging at 14.10 and thought all was well til I went out this weekend and was stranded. Tested the alt with my voltmeter and sometimes its 14 and sometimes the battery drops below 12. I charged the battery up overnight and its holding a good charge. I REALLY dont wanna drop this alternator out again so is there anything else I should check? Im getting the battery tested anyway.
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So i got a 2002 gti 1.8t awp . Wont start unless I crank it about 2-4 times. Also noticed a bit of a grinding/high pitched noise when cranking. when the car starts up it idles perfect, doesn't die , drives perfect etc...
Eventually i got the car scanned. & got 2 codes.
P0341 : Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance B1
&
P0230 : Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
So I went and bought a Fuel pump , Camshaft position sensor & Even a new starter. Nothing fixed it. & the problem still occurs..
Heres a video of me trying to crank it ; [URL] .....
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2 weeks ago my fans stayed on all day and killed my battery. Did a bunch of research and found that the FCM would be a possible place to start. FCM was literally in pieces under the battery. Replaced it with a new one. Still no fans. Popped open the fuse box on top of the battery. Fuse closest to the engine was blown and the plastic had started to melt. Bought a whole new one of these and replaced it. This time I read about the AC test with the car off. AC works (which is a pleasant surprise) but only the big drivers side fan works. The small passenger side fan never turns on. Turned the key off and the fan stops so that's good, I think. Ever since then my battery gets drained if it sits for so many hours.
Everything I read points to that fan going bad and becoming inoperable. But is that what is causing my battery to drain? Today I pulled the fuse nearest the engine when I got to work to see if my battery stays charged all day. Well as of right now it will not even turn over. Went out after work and it turned over 6 times but did not start. Started to jump it using my buddies car. Let it charge for 20 minutes and now it wont turn over. Have dash lights. Glow plug light is working as it should. Headlights everything works. Charged up the battery. Have 13 volts at the battery. Doesn't make a difference. Still will not turn over. Going to pull my battery tray after work and see if I can see the solenoid. Will see if I have any power there. Can I see the solenoid from the top of the car? Probably not...
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My car is a 2.0 AEG manual for reference.
So, my alternator died last night and when I changed it this morning, I fired her up and now when I turn my light switch one click I can see my high beam light illuminated on the dash. If I have the switch on any setting, it's illuminated but no lights are on out front except the dtr lights. Turn signals work fine and so do the brake/tail lights. I checked the fuses for both low/high beams but they were fine. I saw someone mention an ignition switch while I was searching but I'd rather get other opinions whether it is that or not.
Edit: My original test drive the car ran fine minus the headlight issue. But upon driving it through the city when I was coming to a stop at a redlight the battery light came back on and it died. It fired right back up and barely made it across the street to a parking lot before it died again. It'll fire up but won't stay on. On my way to an parts store for charging system check.
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When I start my truck after it has been sitting for a while... I.E. Everything is cold. It takes about 2-3 seconds for the alternator to start putting out voltage (the lights are dim, and the voltmeter on the dash registers about 11 volts). My question is: Am I running on borrowed time and should I change out the alternator, or is there another underlying problem I should be looking for? OR... is this normal; I've never seen this before.
2002 s10 p/u 4cyl stick shift ..
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