Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Won't Start - Ignition Switch?
Aug 25, 2016
Just got this car it's 2001 gti turbo. The guy said that the key fob was back. But I changed the starter and still no luck. It had all new plugs and I went to check for spark and there was no spark or fuel. So then I got a new crankshaft sensor and still no luck. I haven't gotten the chance to check for spark yet. And now those lights and beeping keep happening even without the key In the ignition. Can it be the ignition switch or something worse?
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I am having a little issue with the ignition in my car. I had the typical no headlights/wipers/heater etc. so I ordered up a new ignition switch and when I went to replace it, the switch fit perfectly and had the correct part number but when I put my key in to try and start the car I couldn't even turn the key but when I put the old switch back in it would turn just fine. Also when I removed the old switch I noticed the red wire going to the switch was slightly burnt right at the terminal.
Here is the basic procedure I did:
-Unhook negative battery cable
-remove lower dash/ center console
-remove switch
-install new switch
Whats this little metal piece? I did not see that when I did mine...
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I have a 2001 f350 this morning I went to start the truck the key turn but I heard a click sound all the lights and everything came on but the truck won't start just silence I could turn the key back in the off position and put the key out but the truck is still on radios on it's like the truck is still in the run position or on position there is a lot of play between off and run but like I said the truck will not start, could be not sure if it's the ignition switch or actuator rod..
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A couple weeks ago I bought a 2001 VW Jetta with 176,000 miles on it. The car runs well, but for the past four days this has been happening:
Every time I start the car, after it's been off for a couple hours, neither the gas nor the brake pedal work. I can push them down, and I hear the car trying to respond but it doesn't do anything (well, it does move a little, as though it's in neutral). Then, when I turn the car off and then turn it immediately back on, both pedals are back to normal and work perfectly fine again. It's happened every time I start the car for the past few days.
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One night i get into my car its a 2002 mk4 golf 2.0 engine and i turn my key to start it and i turn the key all the way and i am getting no sound at all no clicking or even the engine trying to start. the key just turns all the way and thats it my stereo turns on and my interior lights turn on but my headlights dont turn on and my cluster gauges needles dont move at all . its like my ignition is not sending any signal to the engine or my cluster gauges. the cluster lights work but that it. when i turn the key to start i am getting nothing . What this could be?
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2001 Golf with A/T. 130,000 miles. Daughter went to turn key, heard a "snap" sound, car wouldn't start...no "click" from any electrical contact, starter apparently not getting any "juice". key now turns in switch too easily...can't feel the usually resistance when turning key. Key fob works, steering wheel turnable, can move trans lever out of "Park" into all positions with foot on brake. Broken key cylinder, or some link to ignition switch? Car at repair shop, waiting it's turn.
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I've got a problem with my 93 ford escort. About a month ago things in it began to stop working. 1st the wipers and then the heater. and now the ignition won't start my car. It will allow it to turn over but it doesn't turn on the engine light before it starts to kick in. Bad key assembly or the whole switch? Or a relay ?
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well for a few days the car woudln't start every 10 times or so , i'd turn it back and forth a few times and it would kick over , then tonight wife took it and it just wouldn't start so i went and picked her up and tried it about a 100 times and called a tow truck
so what does everyone think it is, everything else is normal but the no crank. ignition switch maybe? I'm going to try and pop the clutch after it gets here, i didn't have the room or distance to try it where it was
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I just had the ignition switch replaced on my 2001 Toyota Sequioa. Now my blinkers work but will not shut off after I complete the turn. Additionally, the blinker "stick" is very hard to move in either direction. I plan to take my car back to the dealer and politely request this blinker repair be warranty work.
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My wife's 2001 Gran Prix has a problem with the ignition switch, or related to the ignition switch. Intermittently (more frequently in warm weather or when the car's warm) the ignition switch can't be turned back to the 'off' position all the way, meaning the key can't be removed from the switch. We've heard from several mechanics that there are a couple problems that can cause this, and in fact had the ignition switch replaced which did not solve the problem. I understand there is a connection to the transmission or gear shift lever that may also be part of this problem in some way. There can only be so many solenoids, switches, connections, etc, related to this, I'd like to fix the problem and avoid spending money unnecessarily.
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I've been having a "turn off" problem with my 03 santa fe. After driving it doesn't want to shut off. The switch will be in the off position and it just keeps running. When I put it in Reverse or drive and then turn the switch off it stops. But which should I look at first? The ignition cylinder/key replacement or maybe something in the ignition switch/electrical? The cylinder assembly is over a hundred $$ and the switch is only $25.
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Replacing the ignition switch? I heard it possibly needs some VAG COM changes related to the immobilizer?
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This problem has been with the car since I bought it in 2004 and lived up north in Yellowknife, NT. Whenever the outside temp got down to minus 20 or so the car would not start. Turn the ignition switch on and all the idiot lights are on, turn the key to engage the starter and nothing. I found out by trial and error that if I let the key turn back to the ignition setting ever so slowly it will come to a point where the starter engages. It takes some trial and error but usually that works. However, if it got to minus 30 even that would not work. I would then have to place an electric heater in the driver's foot well for half an hour or so and then the car would start perfect.
Now I've moved south where it does not get that cold however now the problem is happening even at zero degrees. Yesterday was minus 1 or 2 and car would not start without jiggling the ignition switch around. Today plus 11 and starts as it should. To me it sounds like a mechanical problem with the ignition switch however I don't know.
2003 V6 GLS 4-motion....
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The car is a 1998 Nissan Maxima. As you well know a car's interior in the summer is about 10 to 15 degrees more than the outside. When the outside temperature is 80 degrees or more I can't readily start the car. I turn the key and nothing happens. Sometimes I put the switch into the "on" position wait about 20 to 30 seconds, turn the key again and the engine starts. I think I need an ignition switch. My question is why does this happen? What does the temperature of the car's interior have to do with the poor operation of the switch? The interior of the car must be about 75 degrees or less for the car to start.
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I have a 2006 chevy impala LT 3.9 v6. Intermittently it wont start, crank it and it does nothing. All accessories work fine. Had a new starter installed, switched the relay it works on, had the ignition switch changed (twice), had the passlock system replaced, new keys for the ignition. Had the car to the dealer four, times. It doesn't happen all the time so it cant be reproduced at will. I just keep trying to start it and it will eventually start, it can be turning the key from 4 to 40 times. there's no rhyme or reason, some times it doesn't happen for 5 days, then it happens everyday for a week.. according to the dealer when they reproduced it it was the ignition switch. I doubt i got 2 bad ignition switches so i don't believe the error is being reported correctly. According to chevy they have no other reports of this..
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I have a peculiar problem with my 2010 Santa-Fe 3.5L
Every now and again, and more often recently, when I try to start the car with the ignition switch, it cranks well, but doesn't, or takes a while to start. If, after trying to start it with no success, I give it a few seconds, I usually get it going, but not always instantly like it used to.
However, If I try to start it with the remote, it starts instantly, every time. What could be the cause?
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'04 RX330: Starting about a year ago, occasionally when inserting the ignition key it wouldn't turn to start. Take key out try again and it would start. Progressively, it seems to be requiring more and more in/out cycles to get the key to turn. It's like the transponder is not recognizing the key FOB. I have two keys, one is a master and other is a sub key, both have the problem. What has to be done to correct it? I'm afraid the dealer will just change some expensive ignition part when there's an easier fix.
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Son has a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7 motor. The timing belt broke before we could replace it. Long story short, 24 valves, gaskets, timing belt, water pump, new belt tensioner and new pulleys. The motor is back together. The only problem is when you turn the ignition switch on, it blows the CPU fuse. The only electrical part we replaced was the purge valve.
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So i have a mk4 jetta vr6, just did my motor swap went smooth... The car starts runs, when i shut my motor off and go to start it again when it is warm/hot.... it doesnt want to start.. just keeps turning n turning.... I have been through a couple of threads people recommended to change the coolant temp sensor... been there done that yesterday.... n no results thus far... same problems... the car has been sitting for a year since i had done any work to it...
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I have a 2001 GTI 1.8T, and it's refusing to start. It turns over and all power accessories work, so I've ruled out that the battery is dead.From the bit of research I've done, I wonder if it's a fuel issue or something to do with the coil packs.The only thing to be mentioned is that about 3 days before this occurred, I left the headlights on while I was away from the car. A quick boost and that problem was solved. I wonder if this could be related at all.
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My 3.0 L Honda Accord won't start the way it should. I've included a video of the situation. I need to figure out what I need to replace. [URL] ....
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