Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Won't Go Past 10mph
May 30, 2016
I have a 2001 1.8t. Was stock except for exhaust and Cai. This weekend I installed a Audi K04 turbo, Audi exhaust manifold, 3" down pipe to 3" exhaust, 3" maf, front mount intercooler, 3 bar fuel pressure regulator, high pressure fuel pump, 386cc injectors, r8 coil packs, ngk plugs. The car start but sounds like it's going to turn off and can't get it out of first gear. As soon as I put some gas it seems like it chokes and can't go past 10 MPh. I don't have it chipped could that be the reason or should I look at something else that could be causing the problem. I'm wanting to go Unitronic stage 2+ but don't wanna do that and still have the same problem.
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The wife's Jetta wagon has been giving us some issue. It is a 2001 2.0 AZG engine auto trans wagon. 195,000 highway miles and well serviced and taken care of.
Here is the symptom : Engine will NOT rev over 3200. It will hit 3200 and stop dead. This is the case either in gear and driving or just sitting in Neutral. The engine seems to take a bit longer to start but does every time. The car seems to run great other then the 3200 rpm ceiling.
Wife has been driving it around like this for a while and I have let the codes accumulate. Here is the codes it gave me.
16727-cam position sensor- I just replaced the CPS with no improvement, issue is still there and code still pops up. I was told this code comes on when the car does not fire on the first rotation anyhow so it could be something else.
16804-cat o2 bank 1
16990-ICM issue
Cleared the codes and restarted the car. 16727 comes on immediately but other codes take a while to come on again.
I am leaning towards maybe an electrical issue? Bad ground, alternator output or something. Any tips on places of ground, connectors etc to clean and check? Also one or two guys keep mentioning coolant temp sensor and crank position sensor...but wouldn't those toss a code too?
I also pondered a plugged cat but I dunno, have had that before and you can usually tell right away...the car runs great until it hits 3200 and it is like a governor kicks in and she stops dead at 3200.
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Okay I have a 2001 Vw Jetta 1.8t Wolfsberg.
I have done a few mods:
- Oil catch can
- Boost gauge
- New turbo (5000 miles old)
- Brake booster mod
- PCV system fixed and some hose deletes (that make the intake manifold have one line off of it rather than two)
- Timing belt/ pulleys
- Accessory belt / pulley
- A few other things but nothing to cause this
The car will do this randomly. And I mean once every two weeks of that. I will go to accelerate and the boost gauge says the "boost" is at zero and no matter how much I give it gas, it won't go past zero and stutters. But it stops almost as fast as it starts. I don't get it...
My catch can has 3/4" line to about 1/2" or so, that meets the oil catch can. (Ebay with the blue hose.) I have new plugs, all new (dealership recommended) lubes, all kinds of new small odds and ends. But it's never done this before. (3rd time now in a month..)
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I made an earlier thread about minor low speed crash and airbag deployment that has sense been fixed.
The engine 2.0 (AZG) will rev to 3000 (3200 sometimes) RPM and stop. This is only if you give it about 20% / 25% throttle. If you give it full throttle it spits and sputters. When I had the airbags installed. The codes were read it and also came up for cam sensor and o2 changed that and now the codes are gone. No CEL and it is exact same issues still. I can't tell if ECU is doing it but it feels like it's not getting enough gas or air since full pedal makes it stall.
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My vw jetta 2.0 mk4 runs perfectly fine till i hit 70mph then it just bounces slightly between 70-75mph and stays there. Everything else on the dash seems to work fine. my rpm is working fine, odometer is working fine, it's just the speedometer that gets stuck once i go past 70mph. I can tell that i'm going faster than 70mph yet it wouldn't go past 70-75.
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my car into VAG COM and since then it hasn't boosted past 4 lbs. it has Revo stg 2, K04, aftermarket side mount, full exhaust and a couple other bolt ons. Before the car was spiking at around 23/24 lbs. after pressure testing the system I found that the turbo inlet pipe was lose, so I tightened it. Still no change. I tried holding the battery terminals together for 10 minutes to reset the ecu and I also tried clearing the codes through a handheld code reader. No codes even come up anyways for this. The car is a 1.8T.
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I own a 2001 Jetta GLX 12v VR6, lately the car has not been running well. It chokes the power past 3500 rpm's and will continue running poorly and sound sort of like a Subaru boxer engine. Sometimes it corrects itself and runs okay but goes back and forth.
I ran the codes on VAG COM:
6 faults found:
17551 - Load calculation cross check
P1143 - 35 - 10 upper limit exceeded - intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (g61)
P0328 - 35 - 10 Signal too high - intermittent
[Code] .....
I ran VAG COM a couple of days before these codes came up and I had a different code dealing with air/fuel mixture, something about fuel running to rich. I'm stumped.
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It's been two weeks since the track and the brake still squeals during the last couple feet before the a complete stop (from 10MPH or so to 0), is this normal? I am on stock pads, how long they last typically? I have 32k miles on the car and that was the first time I track the car ever.
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So I have a 2014 VW GTI 4DR 6speed with 25,000 miles on her now and I am getting this weird noise from what i believe is the front end right wheel?
The noise is similar to a rubbing / humming sound that occurs below 10MPH and then increases with repetition at say above 60MPH. I notice a little harder of a rubbing when wheel is turned at say when i pull out from a stop sign!
ALL that i have done was put on hubcentric spacers and that i pulled off to see if noise stopped but it didn't! Could the supplied bolts be to long? I had removed dust caps on rear for clean fitment and sanded any imperfections on all hubs.
The noise isn't loud at all but is definitely noticeable with radio off and windows up!
Could this be a wheel balance issue? Tie rod or arm? Bent RIM?
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Braking down a hill and a sharp turn (in either direction) around 10mph results in a slight knock (1, not multiple). Is it normal? I have some suspension goodies to put on but i don't want to do that before getting any repairs done if necessary...
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I have had power problems with my Jetta when driving into the mountains for the last 2 years. The first major repair I had done 2 years ago was to fix a fuel leak in the fuel injection pump. It seemed great driving around town for about six months. I took it to the shop again and this time they said the intake manifold needed to be cleaned. After that it seemed fine for another few months- then not. I took it in this time to the Volkswagon dealership. They found a hose that had a bad tear. That fixed the problem until I discovered a couple of weeks ago that once again I cannot go past 30 or 40 MPH up the hill.
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I have the above referenced car with about 65k miles on it. Today I took it for a drive, switched it to tip-tronic manual and found that the car would not shift past 3rd gear. When I switched to automatic, the transmission stayed on tip-tronic (the display indicated I was on 3rd gear). I had to fully stop the car, place it on park and only then did the transmission switch to automatic.
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I have this problem with my 2001 Santa fe 2.7 Lt auto done 326,000 km no power on hills sometime want rev past 3500 revs and sometimes will rev past this, it seem to get worse when fitted new fuel filter in the tank? have put new filters and O rings in injections, have just fitted new coils and the cat has no restriction. Starts first time but did have trouble the auto would not start in park until pulled top cover and got it out of park and started it in neutral changed the trans fluid and seems to move through the selection better. Could it be the fuel pump??
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Does your Golf R Rev past 5K when at a standstill in Neutral? I just finished installing the New South performance Gauge. I routed the boost line hose through the firewall. I used the supplied T fitting and replaced the stock one. I hooked everything up but the power for the boost gauge, just testing and checking everything before I proceed.
I put back on the battery without replacing the battery clamp at the bottom. But I connect and tighten the terminals. I am testing it now to see if all is functioning as it should. I start up the car, and I the vac sucks down to -10 PSI as I expect it.
Then I give it a rev to see if it will build boost. Almost immediately I notice a problem. Seems that the engine wont rev past 4-5K.
So I think, okay, well I probably didn't tighten it down properly, and I have a boost leak. So I pull off the engine cover, and put back on the stock hose. clamp it down, put back on the engine cover, and start the engine again.. The same thing... wont rev past 4-5
I look on the dash and two things pop up. one, the check tire light, and two the tires slipping light is solid. (I thought that VW didn't have active TPS sensors in the these cars anymore, but instead are using wheel rotation to calculate air pressure loss, if this is the case, then why would the check tires light just turn on when it wasn't moved. Could the fact that I disconnected the battery cause an issue? with this?)
I am still thinking boost leak. So I get some soapy water and spray around the only hose that I took off on all the joints, I put back the cover and connect the MAF again. then I start the engine, I figure a few revs will build enough boost to show any leaks in that area with bubbles. But no bubbles...
So now I am wondering if VW put a safety that prevents the engine from revving past 5k when in neutral. I would rather not move the car, until I know for sure that there is nothing wrong.
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I recently picked up an 01 jetta and the day after i bought it the check engine light came on with a 3 codes. i erased the codes and than after a day of driving the light came back on with code p0171.
I did some research and figured i should get a new air filter and clean the MAF but i was waiting until pay day.
Today, about a week later, the ASR light came on and won't come off so i ran the obd again and now there is codes P0171, P0102 so i cleared them again to see if the ASR would should off. the check engine light is off for now but the ASR came right back on when i started the car.
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Decided to re use a thread I no longer needed, the problem. Was driving my 01 Jetta, cel and epc came on, would drive kind of rough (typical "replace your cool pack" question) but parked at home and when I went to drive again not a problem for two days then today no epc but the cel was flashing?.. Then again 20 mins later after parking the car it drove fine?.. I'm confused wouldn't a bad coil pack be consistent with the cel or rough idle/ driving? Would swapping around the coils work for this? Or should I try find the specific bad one and just replace it?
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Long story short, bought a 2001 GTI VR about a month ago and have been doing little fixes to get it up to snuff. Went to put gas in the other day and it took about two gallons before spitting gas back out the filler hole. Car has no codes or lights on, so I'm thinking this is a potential clogged vent tube, as the car was sitting for a few months (has spider webs all over the passenger rear wheel well). I've searched and can't find anything except for TDI related stuff.
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Experiencing slight vibrations in the seat, and steering wheel past 60 mph on the stock wheel & tire set up? I've got about 10k miles on my Pirellis and am thinking that all the winter driving (potholes) have knocked them out of balance. The VW dealer claims they balance fine, but I can feel the vibrations. Just wondering how everyone else is liking their stock set up.. Maybe a wheel has a slight bend? Nothing I can notice from a quick glance tho.
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When I first leased my 2010 Prius back in June of 2010, I was able to use the EV mode up to 25 miles an hour. Once it hit 26 or if I were to accelerate to quickly, it would disengage.
Now, actually some months back, I've tried using EV mode but it always disengages after 10mph no matter what I do. I've talked to the service dept at my local Toyota dealership but they have no answers for it.
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So I drive a 2003 VW Touareg....and the other day while driving, felt this strange vibration when accelerating over 10mph. The dealership said it was an $1800 repair and diagnosed it as the drive shaft.
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So i have a mk4 jetta vr6, just did my motor swap went smooth... The car starts runs, when i shut my motor off and go to start it again when it is warm/hot.... it doesnt want to start.. just keeps turning n turning.... I have been through a couple of threads people recommended to change the coolant temp sensor... been there done that yesterday.... n no results thus far... same problems... the car has been sitting for a year since i had done any work to it...
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