My vr6 some times loses its power but it's weird because the check engine light does not appear. It does for like 30 seconds then it goes back to driving normally.
View 1 RepliesI have Toyota 4runner 1996 4 cylinder. it was running good (from time to time I would lose power for 2 to 10 second than it go back to normal acceleration). I had the check engine light on for almost 8 month. last week I took the car to mechanic shop for diagnosis. the mechanic changed the spark plugs and after that the engine lost power. the car cannot go over 30 or 35 mile per hour. He changed the spark plugs and put different ones, same thing he put the old ones back same problem, he changed the wires, the fuel filter, air filter, the distributor and rotor, but still the same problem. the problem is that the check engine light is off now and there no codes.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 Elantra GLS. I've noticed that anytime it rains or I hit a puddle, my belt squeaks and sometimes it almost sounds like it's grinding and I lose power for 4-5 seconds. From the front passenger wheel well, I can clearly see the belt. I noticed there are holes drilled into the frame, and I was wondering if there is suppose to be a guard there to prevent water from getting on the belt?
View 2 RepliesOk, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
When flooring with 1st or 2nd gear engine suddenly lose power, smoke like hell (white smoke) and engine start to shake badly? It disappears after few minutes when engine turned off. When cold it will go in "that" stage almost on every flooring. When warm it possible will start to shake a little and disappear after a minute without turning off engine.
After CCV breather valve(was broken) , turbo and nozzle replacement this problem still exist.
What could cause that problem?
*Golf mk4 AHF 81kw with new turbo, new bigger nozzles and chip.
I was driving at 60mph and all of sudden rpm drop to zero went back to normal rpm after 5 seconds, pulled over thinking I blew some thing every thing seem normal is this a sensor problem.
2000 dodge ram 1500 5.9l 2wd
I have a 2012 Ford Taurus when I turn the ac on it goes fast and then back to normal every like 3-5 seconds. It blows cold air and it doesn't matter the speed of the ac it speeds up and slow back to normal. Has 49100 miles...
View 3 RepliesI have a question about my Golf MK4 1998 - 1.6
I was out driving to work today, and when i cam to a roundabout, the engine stopped. The battery light was lighting as if the ignition only was on, and the steering wheel was extremely hard to use. The gal pedal didn't even work either. After a few(2-3-4) seconds, the car automatic started again, and i could gas and steer normally.
What could this be due to? I know i have some problems with the starter on the car(when i start it sometimes it gives me this loud elephant noise), but it should not have anything to do with it..
my 1990 Nissan 300zx with 136,000 miles often surges at highway speeds for several seconds then drops back down to normal. the surge is usually 1000 rpm. does not happen if not in overdrive, and will not happen unless having been driving for 15 minutes or so. also seems to occur more on hot days (80 degree +) than on cool days. mechanic has looked at this several times but not yet able to determine why.
View 2 RepliesFor reasons I can't figure, the Temp gauge on the wife's Explorer is shooting from normal to high in just seconds. Then, it drops back to normal. When I looked at it this afternoon, I noted 2 things.
1) There was no sign of a coolant leak or overheating.
2) There wasn't ANY coolant in the tank!!!!!!!
The truck has evidently been running fine while this is going on.
Vehicle: 1994 TripleE RV based on Ford E350 7,3 Diesel, 70000 miles.
My trans is skipping out of lockup for 1-2 Seconds and then goes back to normal operation with lockup engaged. I am shure that it is the lockup disengaging because the increase in rpm is not as much as between gears.
This happens appr once or twice every hour when driving at normal constant highway speed. It happens both in 3rd and in OD. There is no flashing OD lamp, and the OD button is working (I use this actively when going up hill to keep up momentum and rpm)
I am not able to find out what causes this. I have replaced the speed sensor on the rear axle, the rpm sensor on the engine and the brake light switch on the brake pedal. Replaced one item at the time to be able to determine if any of these items was causing the problem. But none of them made any difference, the problem is still there. I have also inspected the harness connector on the trans and it seems fine to me.
2001 2.0
251,xxx km
Noticed here lately that my brake pedal is depressing further, and can go to the floor if I press it hard enough.
If I press the pedal quick (panic stop) it engages quickly and in the correct spot (I can feel the front tires almost lock up) then it depresses more almost to the floor. the brakes still work perfect however.
What should I try first?
I use my hand brake, and have pumped the brakes and pulled the handbrake to set the rear pistons in place.
I replaced the two rear calipers about a year and a half ago and bled them obviously. Have not bled the front brakes and will do that, but was just looking for more insight, and common problems, vacuum leak, etc.
Reservoir is full as well, and no brake line leaks that I know of.
I have a 2002 jetta 1.8t that overheated on me out of no where i have read some post and couldn't really find what i need it never overheated on me before and this was the first time and when ever i open the reservoir where you put in coolant everything spills out its my first time owning a volkswagen, it happens as soon as i start driving like 30 secs and temperature starts to rise.
View 3 RepliesI was driving tonight and all of a sudden my car dies and wont start back up. I try to go and start it and only thing that happens is it clicks once. Battery is around one year old and the alternator was replaced with it. Lately there has been a rattle in the engine bay and i couldnt figure out what was going on. I tried to replace the intake manifold bushings with OEM ones and no luck with that.
I was going to replace with oversized bushing by friday but I don't think that's going to happen now. Whether it could be the starter or if the timing chain could have broke or if the engine could have seized. *(BTW the car is a 2003 Jetta GLI with a 2.8l 24v vr6 6 speed manual.)*
Last time i did an oil change was around 50 miles ago. 6 quarts of 0w-40 mobil 1 full synthetic.
So I just bought a 2002 Elantra with 72k on the clock (legitimate) and I'm having issues where the car will start fine in the morning and idle normally, however, say I come back to go somewhere else about two hours later, when I start it the car will rev up to 3k and stay there for about 3 seconds and jump down to normal idle speed. What's the issue?
View 7 RepliesThis all started more than a month ago. Our 13' GTI would cool off (temp gauge would drop) at idle. This did not take long, I could sit and watch the needle drop in a matter of just a few minutes. Next, the car would lose heat while driving. It could be 20 miles into a trip, and if you slowed down to say ~30 mph i.e., coasting to a stop, or slowing until a light changed the car would lose its heat. At one point, driving in heavy traffic, the car had no heat. Fan on 2, heat all the way up, at best you'd get luke warm if not cold air. Recirc did not make a difference. It simply struggles to stay up to temp, even under load.
The thermostat, water pump, check valve, and heater core have all been replaced by the dealership in an effort to fix the problem. I understand a small loss of heat idling with the heat up when its -15 out. My R actually cooled off a little bit the other day after idling (at 190 aka temp) for about 20 minutes. It was -15 and windy. The GTI isnt keeping heat, is slow to heat up, and randomly drops heat.
What am I missing here? This seems like a thermostat problem, however the thermostat was replaced! (they broke the water pump trying to replace the thermostat so that is new as well) It as never leaked coolant, it doesn't leak coolant, there are no codes thrown. The only modifications to the car is a raceland down pipe I installed myself. They have questioned if the down pipe could be causing this issue, which I highly doubt.
What kind of damage could this cause? Not staying up to temp, and being driven.
I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
View 1 RepliesIf you are driving in 2wd and lose power to wheels is it possible the transfer case is the problem and not the transmission? This was in a 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4 automatic transmission.
View 4 RepliesI have a very very strange thing happening in my 2004 vw jetta 1.8t. at random times the car will lose boost and throttle response. I am not sure what it could be I have replaced quite a few parts and it still happens.
No matter what speed or how much boost the car will just drop pressure and the throttle goes numb. For example I will be cruising on the highway around 80 on 0lbs of boost or a few and then the throttle just quits, at that point I can push the throttle to the floor and no response.
To fix it I have to lift my foot off the throttle completely and then go back on to rebuild boost or pressure. There is no pattern on when it happens, its happened from 10mph to 90mph and it happened ins 8lbs of boost or in vacuum. When I lose boost or pressure the boost gauge drops the needle to the bottom of vacuum at like 30.
Things I've replace:
- diverter valve
- n75
- throttle pedal
- checked throttle body sensors
- replacing maf this week
My girlfriend recently picked up a 2.0 Jetta, had her dad drive it 800 miles with no issues except a code for needing a new thermostat. A few weeks ago, we were out for a drive getting on the freeway and all of a sudden the gas just cut out on her. Then on a separate occasion, did the same thing except this time the power steering was gone and the brakes wouldn't depress. I told her to click it into neutral and then back to drive next time it happens, so she did and then it was like nothing ever happened. Weird, right? I don't really have any leads on where this could be coming from, since it's so intermittent.
View 2 RepliesI was driving my 2006 Prius on the highway (120,000 miles on it). I'd been driving about 10 minutes and all of a sudden, the dash warning lights lit up.
Red triangle with exclamation point.
Yellow circle with exclamation point.
Yello check engine.
The car did NOT lose power. It kept driving fine with no noticeable change in how it operated. Fuel consumption stayed the same. Braking worked fine. I had a completely full tank of gas (had just filled it up before I got on the highway). Temperature outside about around 60 degrees.
I kept driving to my destination (another 20 miles at highway speeds). The car sat parked for about 3 hours. I returned to the car, started it up. The same warning lights appeared, except for the Yellow circle with exclamation point. Plus, this time I noticed on the energy monitor screen the graphic of the red car with the exclamation point.
Again though, everything seemed to be working fine. While the car had been parked for 3 hours I did some browsing through the owner's manual and saw a notation that is the warning lights were only yellow and not red that it was okay to proceed with caution to the nearest dealer.