Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 VR6 GTI - Idles On 3 Or 4 Cylinders / Runs Rough
Aug 3, 2016
2001 VR6 GTI....
Already done:
Replaced the coil pack and plugs
Measured resistance of plug wires (all at about 6K Ohm)
Replaced front O2 sensor
Replaced purge solenoid valve
Replaced coolant temp sensor
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Replaced MAF sensor
Cleaned the throttle body
Cleaned the throttle position sensor
Ran a tank of seafoam treatment (injectors were new 6 mos ago.)
Checked running voltage of battery
It was smoking and stinking bad with a rich mixture. It improved with the MAF change but still runs like a farm tractor. Now it idles on 3 or 4 cylinders, runs rough through 3000 RPM then runs cleaner at above 3000 RPM, but only at light throttle. CEL is either on or flashing when driving.
Don't know what to do next - nice car not fun to drive like this. What this could be and how to test it?
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Have a 2001 Civic DX, Manual Transmission, 228K miles. 1.7L SOHC.
Recently changed front motor mount and timing belt on the same day.
I noticed the car running rough and is only rough at certain RPM. Here are the rpm ranges it runs rough, 700rpm which is idle, 2200-2400rpm and 3400rpm approximately. It idles at 700rpm which I believe is the idle rpm on my car, so thinking my timing is not off. One more thing I noticed is if I have AC on and reving down in rpm it sounds like it is about to shutoff (never shuts off) and get a stronger vibration and same thing when I turn the AC on at idle. With ac on my rpm are 720rpm give and take a few. I been driving with above symptom for 300mi+ so far, even got it upto 95mph, don't know if it is an indication of anything. Got new spark plugs installed at 220K miles.
Could it be the motor mount or my harmonic balancer is out of balance. I did have to use 3/4" impact wrench to knock the harmonic balancer bolt loose. It is a little rusty given I got 228K miles on it.
I am just dreading the thought of my timing being off by a tooth, me and my friend checked the timing marks per oem manual, he checked the cam shaft pulley marks and I did the crankshaft. When we installed the timing belt I only turned the engine counter clockwise so I would not cause a problem with timing belt slack. My AC belt may be a little too tight as well.
The motor mount I put in was an aftermarket one that I bought from amazon. But I have put in aftermarket mount before on the same car and never had anything like this. I am planning to loosen the motor mount, shake the engine, tighten them back up and see if it makes a difference. May be the engine is not seated properly.
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So my daughter's 2000 Golf Mk4 with 160,000 miles on it was running rough and had 3 codes stored - cylinders 2 & 3 misfire and a 411 secondary air injection problem.
Having had the misfire code before I swapped injectors around and the error code moved cylinders with the injectors so I attempted cleaning them and also cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold. At this point car still running rough but also started smoking badly.
Replaced the following items:
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- PCV valve
- PCV hose
- Fuel injectors w/ remanufactured
Hose reconnected between secondary air injection pump and air intake - previous owner had duct-taped it in when he couldn't get it to seal I guess. I've never heard it run.
Car running better, idles more smoothly, doesn't stumble or stall like it did before, no error codes coming up BUT car smokes a lot and the fumes make me feel sick just driving it a mile.
The car had never smoked like this before, hasn't had a whole lot of love the last year or two but no real problems either so why the sudden smoke?
At first I assumed it was cleaner being burned off but that should have been gone in under a minute and this is on-going. It's bad enough to not only be embarrassing but apparently dangerous as the fumes are bad.
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I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when i got it, i replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body.
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For the last couple years the engine light would come on solid every once in a while - read codes for the thermostat - my father-in-law checked it out (mechanic) and said it was fine and that the Jetta was being too liberal with it's engine light.
Engine light recently has started to come on more often. Started using premium gas - CEL went away for a few months. But now it keeps coming on, and once in a while flashes and the car runs rough. But it's intermittent - it'll go and come. Codes are:
16804 - catalyst system bank 1: efficiency below threshold
16684 - error in mapped cooling system
16685 - cylinder #1 misfire detected
Seems to me that the cylinder misfire would be the main issue here. I've changed the spark plugs pretty recently. Catalytic converter not too long ago also. I haven't changed the coil pack since I first got it like 6-7 years ago. With all the issues these years of VW's have had with coil packs, I'm fairly certain I need a new coil pack. O2 sensor?
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The car idles rough on cold mornings but runs fine. It will stall while idling but starts back easily. I am getting a 1131 and a 1151 code with my scanner along with 0300 and lean bank 1 codes. I started having these problems after I had to remove the upper intake to replace coil packs. I was getting egr code and had an egr port completely block off but cleaned that out and no longer get the egr codes. Spraying carb cleaner around the engine I get a very slight bump in rpm around a couple of the intake ports could that be my problem or should I look deeper?
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So I have a 95 aerostar 3.0. I use it every day my a delivery vehicle. I keep it maintained. About a month that ago, it developed a skip or a hesitation, most!y at high speeds, usually under load. I thought it may be transmission but had it checked and was ok. I drove it like that for several weeks. Then got worse so I parked it for ten days until my mechanic was available. When I cranked it to drive it over, it spit and sputtered the whole way here and barely made it. It had never done that before. He changed plugs and wires and distributor cap, even though it had been less than a year since all that had been done. Still no change. Driving way worse after sitting for ten days.
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I recently replaced the plugs cuz I had a rough idle all the time. During plug change when I discovered they had already been changed I found one that had a burned off electrode. Does this mean a lean condition exists?
After plug change it runs smoothly but only after 10 min warmup in our canadian winters. I can drive it when its not warm but seems to have less than full power and idles very badly after driving w/o proper warmup.
Next I changed fuel filter and checked fpdm, it was a little rusty but not bad so i just mounted it 1/4 off steel to prevent further rusting.
Since then I have installed a programmer [diablosport] but found no codes since i had battery disconnected for filter change. no new codes in last few weeks since.
So do I have a lean running cylinder causing this poor cold idle or a rich cylinder? It must be a clogged or dripping fuel injector right?
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My 2001 V6 Ford Ranger Edge has 124, 000 miles and always ran very well, Shortly after a minimal attempt to pull a vehicle out of a ditch the vehicle began to run poorly. This may be coincidental as problem did not begin straight away. The engine refused to start at first but now appears to run on 2 or 3 cylinders. I have checked AND CONFIRMED the following:
Spark at all cylinders
Fuel filter replaced
Fuel pump checked
Fuel pressure 56 psi at schrader valve on fuel rail
Fuel inertia cut off valve checked
E_Z start sprayed in feed horn did nothing
I hope to avoid towing it to the dealer,as I recently had a very negative experience doing this with the Honda dealer..
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I got 2000 tdi with 270000km on it and have a few issues with it and am looking for some information before i start doing some work to it.
First problem excessive blue smoke on start up also runs ruff tell it warms up.
Second the is a screeching noise on start up some times. happens most of the time when the car is cold.
Third sounds like something is dragging or rattling but i have checked and there is i can see.
Fourth when the clutch is in and the brake is on the car runs ruff at idle. i think it has something to do with vacuum used for the brake booster but not sure.
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I have a 1999 Ford Escort SE wagon with 112k miles on it. Last week when leaving work my car started very rough. This was unusual so I killed and restarted the car about three times before letting it run it's course (~30 seconds), after which the car ran fine. About a week later on my way to work the car seemed to 'sputter' (for lack of a better word) when I pushed down on the petal looking for some power on two separate occasions. On each side of the sputters the car seemed to respond fine, but when it did sputter there was a severe lack of power. I got to and from work just fine, but while letting the car idle in the parking spot of my apartment for a minute before shutting off the engine the check engine light finally came on. The following morning the car again started rough (as if it were misfiring/running on 3 of 4 cylinders) and this time it took a good minute before smoothing out. However, after the car smoothed out I experienced no issues on the way to work, no sputtering, no loss of power, nothing. Doing some initial online research I feel that the problem may be one (or more) of the following:
-Fuel pump
-Vacuum lines
-O2 Sensor
-Spark plugs (they are original)
-Fuel Filter (it is actually past due for replacement)
I plan on getting this checked out ASAP, but that still may be 2ish weeks away with my schedule. Some similar reports say that I may be having a 'lean mixture' issue (not getting enough fuel), but I haven't had the time to check the code. My question is, how "safe" is it to continue driving my car with the current situation? Is it at a super high risk of failure/random stalling during rush hour? Will it cause any damage to the engine if there is a cylinder misfire upon start up? I was also wondering if the car would be reasonably reliable to drive on a ~400 mile road trip on an upcoming weekend, but I am making plans as if it is not.
Additional Details:-Tried charging the fuel lines (car to 'ON' then 'OFF' position 3-4 times), had no effect on the morning start-up-Commute to/from work is about 20 miles
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My 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
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I have a huge problem. My 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed manual transmission, has problems with idoling while it's cold, has no power going uphill and stalls when I slow down to stop. This is all after putting a new motor in. The old one was running ok with 310,000 but lagging bad. I figured with the driving I do, a new motor wouldn't be a bad thing. Boy, was I wrong. It has been a nightmare. But once the truck is up to operating temperature, it runs so smooth you wouldn't think there was a problem. But let it cool off, restart, and boom! There it is. We have changed so many parts and sensors with absolutely no change to the original problem. It's very frustrating. I just can't let this problem win. I will figure it out.
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So, I was driving down the road one day at like 50mph or so and had the loudest backfire I've ever heard. As I was putting my car on the dolly to tow home I heard a bunch of rattling and thought maybe it was a rod bearing or something. I pulled the oil pan and found chunks of my upper chain guide (rod bearings were fine).
I replaced the chain guide and checked the timing hoping it would fix the problem, but it didn't. The rattling was gone but I was only running on 3 cylinders. Did a compression check and had 0 compression in Cyl5 and about 60-70 in Cyl2. I don't remember exactly what the compression was for the other cylinders since it was a while ago.
Started thinking it was bent valves, so I just recently pulled the head off to check them. They all looked like they were seating properly and none looked bent from what I could tell. I'm about to try to put some compressed air through it to see if the valves are leaking anywhere. the plugs, wires, and coilpack are all functioning properly.
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I have an '01 gti glx that I just swapped a motor into. I got the motor out of an '01 jetta glx, exact match AFP engine code.
I get cylinder 2 misfires mostly (high number) but I also get 5 and 6 intermittently as well as a P0300 code.
Sometimes I also need to hold the gas down just to get it to start even after the crank sensor.
The engine idles sometimes at 600 rpm but drops and nearly stalls after revving at all.
What I've tried so far:
working cam sensor from my old vr
brand new crank sensor
brand ned wires/plugs
new fuel filter
swapped injectors of misfiring cylinders from old motor
lined up the timing 3 times now and its still perfect
I know the coil pack works because it was on my old motor, which ran fine, just leaked oil.
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2000 F350. Starts great. Idles fine. After it warms up a little, it will run rough and lose power like it is only hitting on a few cylinders. It will eventually stall unless I push the clutch in and bring it back to idle and then it smooths back out. I figured it was starving for fuel but I can rev it with the clutch in with no issue. I ran it up to 2500 rpm and held it there with the clutch in and ran perfect.
I let the clutch out and start rolling....missing again. The check engine light does come on but my scanner says that there are no codes stored. If I idle it, it will smooth out, and the light goes off. All I have done so far was change the fuel filter which was almost plugged shut and the housing was full of rust looking debris which I cleaned out. BINGO! Nope. Same issue.
I am really at a loss as to where to start. I bought this with 120k on it and it now has 170k and I have not had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
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Friend of mine has a 2001 Elantra, not sure of the mileage but it started running really rough, like it's on 3 cylinders. His mech wants to look at the head, thinks there's a broken spring or something.
I asked if the timing belts ever been changed, no it hasn't. My suggestion is it might have lost a few teeth from the belt and jumped. I can't see it being a broken valve spring or something worse because the beta engine are tough as nails.
He said the wires are fine, they probably need replacing too because my friend is the type of person who changes oil and that's it.
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2001 Santa Fe with 2.4 engine auto FWD 198k miles. When it is started first in the day, the engine sounds good and shifts well. After a few minutes and also after stops, first gear works well but then the following gears do not work well almost as if the engine and the transmission quit talking to each other. Traveling at 60 mph starting up a medium hill, the car downshifted and could not pick a gear. Although I pushed the pedal harder, the car did not respond rather continued to slow down. It acts like I lose 2 of the 4 cylinders in all cases. I replaced the spark plugs and two of them had oil on top of the plugs and also all around the threads. I replaced both coils thinking that one of them was the issue but no change has been observed. I replaced the throttle position sensor; no performance change. I do not believe it is the transmission as I have not notice any clunking, or bad shifting when starting out. While coasting at 40 mph in neutral and my pedal pressed at a certain position, the rpm gauge fluctuated from 3k to 3.6k many times for the duration of 20 seconds.
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Just bought a 2.0l 2001 golf four door. the previous owner had the car for only a short time. They claimed the CEL came on and the code was for the MAF. He cleaned it and when I test drove the car there was no light or sign of any issues with how the car ran. Today while figuring out why the alarm kept going off(battery died in key fob and i replaced them), it began idling rough. It had just started to rain as well. From what i could find from older thread is it could still be the MAF, TCV/ISV, or O2 sensor. Is there any good way to diagnose without a vag-com cable. Mine wont update its firmware and i'm screwed at the moment in terms of gathering info on the problem.
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I replaced a dead battery in my '05 3.5 v6 Santa Fe. Other than the dead battery the car was running fine. After replacing battery, at idle, the RPMs drop below 500 and then go back up to over 1000 and then drops back down to 500-600. It has almost stalled a few times. At the low RPMs it diesels a little. When the RPMs spike the car surges and if I wasn't heavy on the brake, I'm sure I would have rear-ended the car in front of me. No check engine, no codes. Is this normal? I replaced the battery about 4 years ago and don't recall this behavior. If not normal, what is going on and where do I look? Its my wife's car and don't feel safe letting her drive it until this gets resolved.
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I have a 01 vw bora 1.8t and recently I let it sit for one day and now it has trouble starting when it's cold and when it does start it has a very rough idle and often stalls out of you try and press the gas. Once it has warmed up she runs fine. My check engine light is on but I have no way to take her down to a shop to get the codes read. What is wrong with my car? One of my friends told me it could be a cool pack or a sensor.
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