Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 VR6 - Engine Stalling And Lost Power Brake At Same Time
Apr 10, 2015
My friend's Jetta was running fine. One day about to drive out of the driveway it started doing 2 things:
1. Felt like it lost power braking, just stopping by manual effort by pushing down pedal hard.
2. Engine stalling unless you keep the gas pedal depressed and holding the engine to about 3,000.
Car currently sidelined until this is fixed... Having the brakes go like that at the same time is strange so where to start. Brake fluid level is fine.
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I recently bought a 2005 F150 King Ranch. I had a 900km drive to get it home but only mad it half way and am now stuck. I was stalling every time I came to a stop and eventually lost oil pressure. This is when I stopped driving and took it in. The shop said it had a knock in the lower end and stopped diagnosing it there. I can now sell it for parts and take a big hit or I can try and patch it myself.
I am assuming based on my symptoms it is a spun rod/main/thrust bearing. The mechanic was not very supportive to narrow it down to anything other than replace the motor.
How many km might I get out of this engine if I pull the motor and replace only the crank and rod/main/thrust bearings. This will not be my daily driver so if I can get another 50000-100000 km off of that, then it will last me at least 5 years.
This is of course assuming that when pull it apart I do not find an other major problems such as bent or broken pistons and rods or scoured cylinder walls. I am not that experienced of a mechanic, so I am not that confident about pulling the heads off and rebuilding the whole thing.
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So my 2.0 Golf GLS Automatic has been having a few small issues lately.. Started out with engine stalling out when put into into Reverse. I was told to swap out the TB so I did. Didn't fix issue, next I was told alternator, installed a new one & it didn't fix the issue... . I finally decided today to throttle up the RPM's when I put it in reverse & guess what it worked!!! No more vibrations no more stalling (For now anyway). But on the even brighter side it finally gave me codes!!! P0725, P1780, P0740, P1850, & P1544. I know it seems bad but I finally have something to work with!! Only bad thing that really concerns me is that now I feel like I may need a new tranny....
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I've lost all power steering about a week ago. I checked all the lines the return is bring fluid up from the pump and the res is flowing into the pump.
A) should I replace pump?
B) look into other things that could be causing the issue?
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Driving home tonight and my car lost all mechinical power, electronics still work. Car turns over but will not start, also hear a clicking noise coming from the driver side of the engine when car is being turned over.
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So the other day I replaced my N75 valve and upgraded my DV to the Forge 007. For some reason the turbo doesn't spool like it did before, it's lost it's pep.
I've tried the Yellow and Green springs, also I tried them with the shim too. No luck. The car got turbo back exhaust, intake, and stage one program.
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2000 jetta 1.8t ... Yesterday driving home from work (1.5 hr drive and it was 25+ degrees) my car died on the highway just before I made it home. Just lost power all of a sudden with no warning signs before and no overheating. No lights came on I just felt sudden loss of power and pulled over and turned the ignition off and it wouldn't start again. Just makes a high pitched whining noise and won't crank over. I just found out the other day that both O2 sensors need replacing but I can't see that being the reason.
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The light engine is on - I understand that the O2 sensor on bank one is gone, the car hesitates and I would like to understand what is wrong. Maybe other sensors or perhaps the turbo. The car has 62,000 miles. Will the car recup power by replacing the bad O2 sensor?
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2001 VW Jetta 1.8t automatic.
Transmission has a hard time going into 1st and reverse. Also some times hits hard going into third. I have a CEL for a vehicle speed sensor? Was wondering if it's not the VSS but maybe one of the other tranny sensors?
Separate question. Same car has a rough idle issue. Occasionally stalls but intermittently runs normal always has a low idle around 600 rpm. I have a code for an injector on cylinder three.
VSS code : P0725 - engine speed sensor circuit malfunction
Injector code : P0203 - injector circuit open cyl 3
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Currently own a 2001 vw golf gls 2.0 with 223000 kms on it. used specifically as a beater car. Noticed that it has all of a sudden started to make a creaking sound when it has run for a long period of time. Stops when you hit a speed of around 50 kms/hr.
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Check engine light came on and stayed on today. Engine lost almost all power so I guess I was in "limp home mode". CEL ODB-II code was P2138 according to AutoZone.
Accelerator position sensor malfunction
Probable causes:
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Poor electrical connection
3. Failed APS.
After turning off the vehicle, it seems fine at least in town but the check engine light is still on. This is the first "problem" with the vehicle and it's at about 98K.
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Both my radiator fans run all the time, even if the engine is cold. Soon as I fire it up, even if it's 0 degrees, they are running. To be clear, as expected, the fans do not run if the car is off.
Based on these symptoms, what components could be the culprit?
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I have a 2001 prius jap import. On a trip it beeped and up came the triangle, check engine light and car with !. The car lost all power and the engine stalled when I pulled over. I plugged in my obd2 scanner and no codes except 3000. Took it to our local toyota dealer who confirmed that code. Had the battery swapped out and still it does the same except now no codes. The car has below normal pickup speed and I can hear the engine rev a little but it does not seem to make any difference. Seems all the power comes from the battery. It will stall when all the error lights come on.
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I have Golf MK4 1.6 16V BCB '02 and problem while engine is running on idle. Engine works at 1100 rpm (doesn't matter is it cold or warm engine) all the time.
Dashboard turns CHECK ENGINE and EPC lamps and says : "engine workshop". At the beggining of problem VAG-COM diagnostic found this error:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
But after I've changed my old throttle body with new one VAG-COM diagnostic haven't reported any error (no permanent error) and idle issue stays.
While engine is running and Check engine and EPC lapms are turned on diagnostic reports this error:
17961 Barometric/Manifold pressure signals: Implausible Correlation
P1553-35-10 ----Intermittent
After engine is turned off diagnostic doesn't report any error!
Beside of changing throttle body, I've changed ECM, MAP sensor, temperature sensor, EGR valve, . Also checked intake manifold and hoses if is it leaky (doesn't leak anywhere), and timing belt is ok and checked complete wiring installation!!!
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2003 1.8t gti ... Today when I got in my car...it fired up perfectly normal but when I got in it from leaving school it took 5min to fire up. The engine turned over but wouldn't fire all the time as if the spark plugs were bad. So I bought new NGK spark plugs and had the same issue just a little bit ago.
I know the obvious thing would be to change the ignition coils but they're out of stock everywhere so I have to have them shipped. My question is is the ignition coils the problem? They looked a bit worn but nothing serious.
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So I'm also noticing my car occasionally makes a huge thud sound from time to time when I put it into two certain gears. From park to reverse it's not loud but there's a little noise, but from any gear into Drive it's sometimes a loud boom and the car shakes. My pops mentioned to me this is dangerous because of how the engine is moving underneath the hood when it happens. I just recently changed the dog bone mount, could it be the others? I'm ware that it's wise to change all 3 if you change one but I was on a budget & it was a lot worse before. Someone mentioned it might be my torque converter but I did some research & the two symptoms don't add up. And I'll add once more that this happens occasionally & not every time I switch to a different gear. What it may be?
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I just got a 2001 Jetta 2.0 (I know slow but I needed a work vehicle) and the dash lights and passenger rail lights don't work, the check engine light, fuel light, all those type of lights work, but the speedometer and blinkers and that stuff don't work, and then the blinker works in the back but no break light. I'm pretty good mechanically but when it comes to electrical stuff I'm completely stumped. What it could be? I haven't looked into anything due to just getting it last night and having to work this morning.
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My mom's Jetta has had a squishy brake pedal ever since we got it a couple years ago. I figured it went down so far because the brake pads were wearing thin.
After having just replaced the pads and rotors, I flushed the fluid with the Motive power bleeder. I cycled the ABS pump with VCDS, then hooked the power bleeder back up and opened all four corners again until fluid was flowing clean and bubble-free.
Everything went well with the change, but the brake pedal never got as firm as I expected it to. Before the change, the pedal felt like it would get dangerously close to the floor. The brakes always worked, but the pedal hit about 60-70 percent of its travel before the car started slowing down. After the change, it has improved slightly, but it feels like its going about half-way before the brakes start working.
The pedal doesn't drop when you hold pressure on it like I figured it would if the master cylinder was leaking. Is this normal for a mk4 or does it sound like there's something wrong?
Car is a late 2001 2.0 Jetta Automatic with the MK60 ABS pump.
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2001 2.0
251,xxx km
Noticed here lately that my brake pedal is depressing further, and can go to the floor if I press it hard enough.
If I press the pedal quick (panic stop) it engages quickly and in the correct spot (I can feel the front tires almost lock up) then it depresses more almost to the floor. the brakes still work perfect however.
What should I try first?
I use my hand brake, and have pumped the brakes and pulled the handbrake to set the rear pistons in place.
I replaced the two rear calipers about a year and a half ago and bled them obviously. Have not bled the front brakes and will do that, but was just looking for more insight, and common problems, vacuum leak, etc.
Reservoir is full as well, and no brake line leaks that I know of.
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My car developed a new light on the dash. Whenever I start to drive my e brake light comes on and stays on the entire drive. It randomly started doing this? It's a 05 1.8t tri with the o2j ...
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Every time we make a sharp right or left turn the engine on my van stalls. It has to be completely restarted. In the last year we replaced the trans and steering column and had a major tune-up. So far, no one has been able to diagnose the problem.
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