I did a head rebuild to my 01 jetta vr6 and replaced some valves after the timing chain broke. Once i put the head back on, i realized that the timing on the timing chain gear and the drive pulley was off like so:
How did that happen? Could the gear have slipped on the crankshaft wen the chain broke? Or the pulley slipped somehow? What am i missing?
I just finished replacing the head gaskets and all gaskets above it on my Chevy Venture. When I went to start the vehicle the first time nothing happens. The dashlights come on, but when I turn the key to start nothing happens. No clicking, no nothing. I have tested the battery...OK. I have tested the starter...OK. I have traced the wiring harness to ensure all wires are plugged in. I have checked all the fuses. I thought maybe its the gear switch so I changed down to 1st and then back up to Park...Nothing. I jiggled while in park..Nothing. Could it be the actual ignition switch? It was fine before this escapade.
View 8 RepliesI bought this Subaru outback with 100,000 miles- clean car fax, etc, did the timing belt, water pump, thermostat at 102,000. Now at 116,000, the head gasket is leaking ($2,200 estimate) so the repair shop is working on that and they called today to say the #2 cylinder is scored and the engine needs to be rebuilt. ($4,000 estimate). I'm not sure if I should have them proceed with he work- that's a bunch of money or look for another engine, or what to do !! Its a great little car- but geez- what to do-
View 5 RepliesFirst off I have a issue the Timing Belt Tensioner Stud / bolt that holds my tensioner on is stripped and came out with my tensioner. I don't want to risk putting it back into the engine because some one prior to owning my car stripped the nut that holds it in. Where I could get a new one of these bolts. I have a 2000 VW Golf GL with a 2.0l. I've searched high and low on parts sites and cannot figure out where to buy this item.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 1.8t awp head that needs replacing but can't find one with that exact code of awp! My question is can I just buy another 1.8t head with a different code?
View 4 RepliesWhat is making this noise? car fired up fine this morning, drove it to work and once i exited the highway, idle started bouncing slightly and it seemed like the car was trying to compensate for something. every once in a while it will jump to 1000 rpm then try to settle but still the idle is choppy. and then there is this noise. Does not seem to the be the belts and to be honest I cant really pinpoint its location i think its loudest under the intake manifold. it sounds like a bad bearing to me but from where? O and I checked codes, nothing accept my regular emissions delete codes. I don't have immediate access to VAG-COM so that's out for the time being. also another detail, if i rev the car the noise does not seem to get any louder in fact it disappears mostly.
View 1 RepliesWhen checking my check engine light , I got P0021 a cam timing error, but my mk4 Gti runs perfectly ??
View 4 RepliesAlright so MK4 vr6 AFP engine. I did the timing chans when I bought the car around 175-180K. Car now has 224K miles on it. A few days ago I started hearing the chains slapping around. Because I didn't want to call it a broken guide just yet for tor the hell of it I took the upper chain tensioner bold out dunked it in oil and pumped it up till it was hard again. Put it back in and drove the car about 130 miles straight. I didn't hear them making any kind if noise. The next day I drove it about 30 miles still no noise. Later in the evening I whent to get gas when I pull in the drive way I noticed they were rattling around again. So the next day I drive it back home (130 miles) and noticed they were even louder especially around 1500-200 rpm.
So I took the tensioner back out and dunked and pumped it up again. It didn't do anything this time chains are still loud. But I noticed when I was pumping the tensioner in thr oil both times the air bubbles weren't coming out of the bleeder hole they were coming from the end around the piston. When I did the chains the first time I got everything from Germanautoparts.com. and I notice that the tensioner they sell isn't genuine vw part the only place I found the actual vw pary is ecs tuning and the stealership. Is it possible I just have a defective tensioner? I really want to get to the bottom of this before I go and pull the motor and find that nothing is broken. Should I just buy the oem tensioner and see if it fixes it first?
I recently purchased 2003 gti with a broken timing belt i bought a reman cylinder head did the timing belt, water pump, belt tensioner, cam chain, and cam chain tensioner. I read the service manual and many forums before setting the timing. I got it all set and back together it runs great at the low end but it feels like when it starts to build boost pressure it stops making power. Would i throw a check engine light if the timing was any off? Would it run well on the low end and then lose power if the timing was off or should i be looking in a diffrent direction? I just want to make sure timing is not an issue.
View 1 RepliesMk4 GTI 1.8BT 034 Standalone Issues. I'm working on trying to finish up my big turbo project. I am running 034 iic standalone system. I started the car and got it to idle but timing seems off and I know I have an exhaust manifold leak. How to alter the timing and such so I can get this thing running.
View 2 RepliesI plan to take the timing cover off tomorrow, but I wanted to post this video. You can hear the rattle immediately in the beginning of the video below and then intermittently after that. Also, is that whistling noise you hear while the engine's running normally?
View 7 RepliesI just got my timing belt replaced by my mobile mechanic thats been doing it for years. I saw him do the work and get the timing right. When he was done the car turned on and ran perfect. After about a minute the car just shuts off. Now the car won't start at all. The car turns over but no start. The car ran perfectly before I had this job done.
View 9 RepliesI recently replaced a timing belt in a 2003 ALH TDI & since it will not start. When I took everything apart I found the belt extremely worn & the engine had actually slightly jumped timing. When I replaced the pulleys & belt & reset the timing to the way it would be from factory. When I tried to start the vehicle it turns over fine but will not catch. I double checked all the timing, fuel pump, everything - all okay. I can get it running with ether but will not start with diesel fuel. I also replaced the fuel filter, checked to make sure there was fuel at the injection pump but nothing works.
View 4 Replies 2.0L 8v ....So what's my chances the valves stayed clear of the pistons?
Driving 70mph 5the gear and cruise control set. Motor just died and I pulled off.
Cars back home in the garage. Iv ordered the ecs tuning timing belt kit.
This was a belt I installed 50k miles ago, shouldn't have gotten a auto parts store belt, or maybe it was my install, but I deff didn't think the belt was going to fail that early. Is there much of a difference between different brand belts and OEM?
I recently replaced the whole head and head gasket on my 2003 jetta 1.8t and it is still overheating so I have to replace either the thermostat, cooling fans, timing chain, or water pump. I have $700 and they said they can fix it for that. So should I spend my $700 and hopefully the problems go away or should I just try to sell the car as is and try to squeeze as much money out of it as i can?
View 7 Replies2.0 Jetta with AEG engine.
I've been plagued by a belt squeak for several months now that only seems to occur when I'm in motion and let off the accelerator. I'm thinking it's the timing belt so I took the top cover off to have a look. What I found is the belt is a bit off center on the top sprocket, although it doesn't look frayed and isn't hanging off the edge.
I found that the tensioner seems to wiggle slightly when I try moving it by hand. It doesn't look like it wobbles when the car is running, but I've never been able to see in the engine compartment when the squeak occurs. The belt also appears to have some shine on a line down the center. Pictures attached.
FWIW, I checked for play in pulleys on the aux belt and found none. What's everyone's opinion on the tensioner and the condition of the belt? The belt has 52,000 miles on it.
I'll start by saying that I have a 2004 GTI 1.8t. Picked the car up from a local junkyard around 2 months ago for a grand. They were unsure why it was running rough, so I took a chance and picked it up. Got it back to the house and the timing chain tensioner was shot. Ordered a new one up. Went to a friends house and he noticed it was producing some white smoke from the tail pipe and suggest I take a look into my head gasket. Replaced the head gasket about 2 weeks ago. Got everything buttoned back up and it smoked even worse.
Being my first head gasket change I accepted the fact that I may not have been thorough enough in my replacement and stripped her back down once again. Made sure I was extremely focused and replaced the head gasket again. I just got her back together and she is still smoking.
I know for a fact that coolant is getting into my pistons and causing my spark plugs to foul out. Too much moisture in the cylinder.
2001 Jetta GLX, 12v 2.8 VR6 Automatic, 157k miles.
Relevant Info: P0411 code, unknown if associated with my slightly rough idle and recently reduced mileage (down by 3-4 MPG). I see 2 N80 valves, one by the power steering reservoir and one behind the throttle body attached to the fire wall. I removed them both, got a tiny bit of what may have been charcoal out of the lower valve and tested both with a 9 volt battery. Both were closed with no power and open when I attached the battery. I cleared the code and it returns within 30 minutes.
Possibly irrelevant info:
Changed the timing chains 3 weeks ago and the code popped up just afterward. Prior to changing the chains, all I saw was a Cam Position Sensor code that is now clear. The slightly rough idle was present to a greater degree before chains were changed but has improved.
SAI solenoids look good but their little rubber hoses don't look fantastic. Could this contribute to the rough idle or is it not part of the vacuum system?
Ignition coil is new and all plug wires tested to about 6k ohms.
I've looked up other's experience with P0411's and have seen the list of possible causes. Wondering if I'm missing a possible cause, if I can test the system further without having to buy parts etc, if the reduced mpg's and rough idle are related...
So i just spent over $1700 at a vw service ctr having a sched 140k timing belt replaced with thermo and fuel filter. This was 3 days ago and when i picked it up it was slower to turn over then got worse and todsy it won't turn over at all even when jumped. It cranks and blows black smoke. Problem is i'm 160 miles from that svc center and it's sunday. There is a vw svc center 14 miles away but i feel like it needs to ho back to where the work was done because it ran great before taking it there.
View 5 Replies2005 GTI 1.8t Engine ... I changed my timing belt water pump and tensioner yesterday and today I am receiving an engine code: P0011 Intake (A) Camshaft Position Timing - Over Advanced (Bank 1) My friend timed the engine and knew that is was 1 tooth advanced. He told me that is was going to be OK because 1.8t's have a 1 tooth tolerance. I would have redone it but I did not know how. What to do in this situation? Do I need to re time the engine?
View 2 RepliesAn independent mechanic rebuilt my 2001 Honda Accord transmission.
The first problem I had with my car shifting was when I tried to pass a car. The car kind of bucked and would not accelerate enough to pass cars. The fix engine light was on. I took it to a small town mechanic who did some diagnostics and said it was not the transmission. He reset the engine light but it came back on as I was driving home ( 150 miles away). On my next trip downstate ( 150 miles) I had my oil changed. As soon as I left the oil change place my car would not shift from 1st to 2nd gear consistently, and once it dropped into neutral then kind of slammed into second. The D4 light was blinking. This happened inconsistently, but I did not drive it more than 10 miles.
Being 150 miles away from home, I didn't know where to take my car. The local KIA dealership said they could get the diagnostic codes for me but could not fix it. After diagnostics they said the codes indicated some "sort of trouble with the transmission" but couldn't tell what. I called the closest Honda dealership and an independent transmission specialist. I gave both places the codes. Both said it sounded like a transmission problem but couldn't say for sure until they saw the car.
The transmission guy warned me that when people bring their vehicles in for a second opinion, the dealership always recommended very expensive full repairs that are not needed. He told me I should not drive the car, even though it was drivable, (since the problem was intermittent), so I had it towed in to him in the closest big city. He said he would check the car over ( I have a gas leak, some inconsistent electrical problems and my oil light had come on before I had the oil changed) to see if it was worth the price of a repair and call me. I made the 150 mile trip home and waited four days before I called him, since I hadn't heard him. When I called him, he said ,"the transmission rebuild was almost done". He said second gear was "burned out". I was ticked because he did not call me or give me any details ahead of time or put anything specific in writing for me. He said he could "take it back out" if that is what I wanted. I didn't know what to do, so I told him not to take "it" back out.
I picked up the car on Saturday and drove it 15 miles. It worked fine. The next day I drove the car a block and it did EXACTLY the same thing it did before I had it "repaired". The car would not shift from 1st into second.. then it kind of dropped into neutral then clunked into second gear and the D4 light was blinking. When I called him he said he would have to look at it to see what the problem could be. (electrical or something else).