Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - No Start After G68 Sensor Replaced?
Nov 29, 2014
Monday get CEL with codes p0722 and p0322. Car is in limp mode during these codes. Yesterday I change g68 sensor. Cleared codes, rough start but was sitting most of the week. Drove around fine, no limp mode, shifted fine. Started up a few times immediately after. Hours go by I go to leave and it won't turn over though it sounds its wants to. No clue why this is happening or what changing the sensor could have done. This is a 01 GLS 2.0 auto. Not sure where to from here especially since it drove so well afterwards.
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I replaced the knock sensor because I was getting the p0327 for the front knock sensor. Drove it again and still sputtering and CEL came back. What are other causes of this? N75 solenoid? Low fuel pressure?? It has a spectre air filter kit on it. Didn't know if this would do it. I cleaned maf. Just put new plugs in it too.
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Keep getting o2 fault codes. Replaced sensors came back. tried another set of sensors came back. Checked wiring for breaks no luck. Replaced ecu still no luck. So going through wiring again and checking for continuity. Looking for a list of what pins to check for voltages, and what each should be from ecu to sensor connectors. Looking for what wire is signal and how to and what voltages to check for...
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Had to replace my primary O2 sensor recently. I got the sensor straight from VW and it comes with all sorts of clips and whatnot. Looking for a picture of how the wiring is supposed to be routed and what I'm supposed to do with all of the plastic clip pieces?
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I started my car the other day and found that it only drives the first gear and I can also put it in reverse. VCDS gave me a 00281 code saying no signal from Vehicle Speed Sensor G68. I replaced the sensor, but it still doesn't go into gear beyond 1st.
VCDS gives me the following codes after replacing G68.
2 Faults Found:
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68)
03-00 - No Signal
I came across TSB 01-99-02 which says something about the codes being incorrect. It seemed a little vague about whether it is actually G38 or G22. I don't want to buy more sensors only to have it be something else. The speedometer and tach work fine so G22 doesn't seem likely to me.
The VCDS site says it could be several things including bad G68 or G38 sensor, low fluid & bad valve body. Was it the G38 sensor?
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Cracked my oil pan somehow on the way home. I didn't notice it at first because I didn't go out to start it till the following evening. I went out to let it warm up for 5 minutes that evening and it started perfectly fine. I went back in the house to grab a couple of things, and i could here a loud ticking so i run out side to shut the car off and just as i get to the car it dies. so i push it into the shop and of course i notice the huge splotch of oil on the gravel. It sat in the shop for close to a month, as I got busy with school, and what not, I didn't get a chance to replace the oil pan.
I finally replaced the oil pan on Friday night, there was no metal bits or shavings in the old oil pan. it wont start. everything turns on in the car just fine. It just wont start. Battery is at 12.6 v all the grounds are solid no corrosion. The car tries to start, but the starter will maybe turn over once or twice and then stop.
Is the Motor pooched or is there something I'm missing.
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After changing my dead alternator and resulting dead battery, I am having what seems to be electrical issues with my 2.8L VR6.
Neither of my keys can unlock or lock the car remotely and when I try to start the car, all the regular lights turn on in the dash, but the engine dosn't make a sound. Inside the car there is no power apart form the gauges, no windows, no AC, no sunroof, nothing. I have checked the fuses, unplugged the battery and plugged it back in, even changed the batteries in my keys to make sure that they weren't out, and nothing works. I have also tried to reprogram both keys and neither of them unlock the doors.
I think that it might have something to do with the anti-theft system, since I didn't touch anything while changing out the alternator.
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My girlfriend has a jetta and I work at a DODGE dealership in service. I recently replaced the water pump and flushed the coolant twice and replaced the coolant with G13 coolant from the local VW dealership. After I finished burping the coolant system of air bubble. After I finished I took it for a spin and being the speed demon I am, I don't hold back on the throttle. I noticed immediately the engine lagging and being extremely sluggish. I ran my shops snap on code scanner on it and I came up with cylinder 1 fuel injector open circuit. Cylinder 6 fuel injector limited power. And last but not least o2 sensor 1 open circuit. If your facing the motor I undid the left motor mount from the frame, lifted the car on a hoist and took the bottom side motor mount off of the motor. I took the cv shaft off of the transmission and lowered the car and jacked the motor up by the oil pan to expose the water pump for removal and replacement. I'm wondering if possibly the o2 sensor could cause the ECU to seize power to two of the cylinders to ensure no engine damage or if its 3 separate problems.
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I just got my timing belt replaced by my mobile mechanic thats been doing it for years. I saw him do the work and get the timing right. When he was done the car turned on and ran perfect. After about a minute the car just shuts off. Now the car won't start at all. The car turns over but no start. The car ran perfectly before I had this job done.
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So, I was driving down the road one day at like 50mph or so and had the loudest backfire I've ever heard. As I was putting my car on the dolly to tow home I heard a bunch of rattling and thought maybe it was a rod bearing or something. I pulled the oil pan and found chunks of my upper chain guide (rod bearings were fine).
I replaced the chain guide and checked the timing hoping it would fix the problem, but it didn't. The rattling was gone but I was only running on 3 cylinders. Did a compression check and had 0 compression in Cyl5 and about 60-70 in Cyl2. I don't remember exactly what the compression was for the other cylinders since it was a while ago.
Started thinking it was bent valves, so I just recently pulled the head off to check them. They all looked like they were seating properly and none looked bent from what I could tell. I'm about to try to put some compressed air through it to see if the valves are leaking anywhere. the plugs, wires, and coilpack are all functioning properly.
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I bought a 2001 golf gls 1.8T (AWW) about a month ago and it was running pretty bad, was throwing some codes, cylinder 1 misfire and some o2 sensor codes, I replaced the coil packs and spark plugs and then cleaned the MAF. It was still running bad ,rough idle and power loss. I figured it had to be some kind of vacuum leak, I replaced the PCV valve, cleaned the intercooler and put on a silicon TIP. Still had some rough idle and power loss, checked for vacuum leaks, using the good ole starter fluid method and found my intake manifold was leaking so I replaced that gasket. STILL rough idle and power loss, now I'm pulling codes for o2 sensor and a misfire in cylinder 3. My question is, should I replace my pre-cat o2 sensor or replace my MAF sensor? Or are there other things that should also be checked/replace.
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2001 1.8T Wolfsburg
Started it this evening and went to the store, on my way there the car was right messed up. No lights, wouldn't go over 500 rpm (no throttle response), eventually was stuck on the side of the road. Reset my throttle back to OEM and everything went back to normal, car hasn't shown any trouble since but it's only been a couple hours. I don't want to end up stranded somewhere so I'm wondering if my computer is possibly failing or should I try replacing the throttle body if it does it again?
Car is not chipped and was OEM throttle before (to my knowledge).
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So my girlfriends's 2001 2.0 Golf (engine code AVH, 153k miles) began throwing codes for misfire on cylinder 4 and for the o2 sensor (post-cat) recently. I went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, wireset, and the coil pack. They were way overdue. The CEL went away for like 30 miles, and then came back. Now it's reading misfire on cylinder 3 and the same thing for the o2 sensor. What else it could be? Search is coming up blank, most people replaced the coil pack and the CEL went away.
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So i just spent over $1700 at a vw service ctr having a sched 140k timing belt replaced with thermo and fuel filter. This was 3 days ago and when i picked it up it was slower to turn over then got worse and todsy it won't turn over at all even when jumped. It cranks and blows black smoke. Problem is i'm 160 miles from that svc center and it's sunday. There is a vw svc center 14 miles away but i feel like it needs to ho back to where the work was done because it ran great before taking it there.
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2001 jetta 2.0 VW guys a while back I was pulling a code saying that the air temp sensor circuit was low I believe it was P0112 so I replaced the maf with a bwd maf. Said it was for the car. Was fine for a day but now it has a P0102 code and the epc stays on (rough idle) what could be wrong ? Is it because the car hasn't learned the new sensor yet because I've only drove 10km or do I have a faulty sensor. BTW replacing the maf fixed the P0112 code
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I drive a 2001 Jetta with the 2.8 v6 with ~125k miles
So for a while my car was giving me a false read on my temperature so I replaced the sensor. I actually followed instructions from a thread on this site. [URL] ....
Now when I go to drive my car, it runs sluggish and misfires if I really give it some gas. CEL is on(however does not return a code when hooked to a computer), and flashes when gassed hard.
I've checked to make sure spark plug wires were reconnected correctly and securely. No leaking has occurred from the temp sensor. shift rod drive unit is reconnected correctly.
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My car doesn't start right now and a shop diagnosed it as an ecu, but I'm starting to think that is not the case. The tach doesn't move when I try to start it and pushing the gas doesn't change it, so I'm thinking it is the crankshaft position sensor. Unfortunately, down at school, I don't have access to a jack, so I was wondering if there is any way to get to the cpa without a jack? I'd rather not have it towed to another shop.
Also, my coil pack has a huge crack in it. Could that be causing my problem? And my sai has some really frayed wires and I'd rather not replace it if I don't have to because these repairs are really adding up, but could that be causing problems too? it's not causing gas mileage issues and I live in an emissions-free county, so simply not allowing me to pass emissions isn't a problem.
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My temperature has been randomly dropping, them back to middle, and recently my engine was overheating because I'm guessing the fans didn't turn on, because I'm also guessing, the engine didn't know it was overheating?
Anywho, during my replacement, I made sure to get rid of the pressure, and the car was cold. I tightened the cap again, but when I took the sensor out, all the coolant spewed out.
Now if I understand this correctly, do I have a leak? I figured the leak I had was coming from the temp sensor as it is.
Here's some pictures for those who'd like to see ....
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I bought an 05 golf GL with a 2.0 and 5 speed in January for commuting to work.
Well, recently. I was on my way home from work, I'm an engine tech for Cummins Inc, and I notice my CEL came on and the car stalled multiple times at red lights. So I limped it home, connected my scanner and the fault was "Implausible signal from Mass Air Flow sensor". I cleared the fault code and tried to start the car. Nothing, no crank no start. Just an audible click from under the hood.
I disconnected the battery for 5 min reconnected it and it started fine. Drove it to work the next day, no issues. I tried to start it again and nothing, CEL was on again for the MAF sensor. I pop started it, car ran like hell, rough idle, low power, etc. luckily I have a dualy that I can drive in the mean time.
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After installing a new crank position sensor on my 05 GTI 1.8T would I have to recalibrate my ECM, my car will not start.
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We bought a 2006 Hyundai Sante Fe with the 3.5L and 4 wheel drive about two months ago, it has 94,000 miles on it. It was purchased from a dealership, and they had to work on it for a month before we took it from them because of some lights that were on, resulting in some sensors being replaced. We had it about a month when we took it to the grocery store, when we came back out I started it and it made a terrible noise, but was running, I immediately turned it off. Upon further inspection, the main serpentine belt had snapped, causing some damage to the secondary belt. We towed it home and I began to fix the belts.
When I pulled off the passenger side wheel and access cover, I noticed the remains of the belt were stuck behind the harmonic balancer, I tugged on it with about 5 pounds of force, and the entire pulley fell off of the harmonic balancer. I'm not sure if the belt stacked up behind and pushed it off, or if it just went bad, but the rubber between the portion that connects to the crank and the pulley was ripped, and missing in some spots. I replaced the harmonic balancer, and both belts, good to go, everything is running fine.
About a week later, the TCS etc. lights came on, but no check engine. I researched it a bit and came up with three possibilities:
1. Fuse
2. Tone wheel cracked/broken
3. Crankshaft position sensor
I checked the fuses and nothing was burnt, I never lifted the truck up to check the tone wheels.
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