Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Misfiring After Installing Brand New Coil Pack, Wires And Plugs
Oct 31, 2014
2001 MK4 GTI VR6 put brand new coil pack, wires and plugs in the car because it was misfiring. Was fine for about a week than I got a clogged cat code and could feel the affects. I now have no cat, no resonator, and no muffler. The car is finally driving good and then the check engine light came back. It says only a misfire in Cylinder #3 and when accelerate hard to speed up my check engine light starts to blink until I stop accelerating hard. So my guess is the clogged cat caused that cylinder to misfire but I do not know the actual solution to this. My EVAP hose is semi-pinched and when u squeeze it you can almost kill the engine. The weirdest thing of all is this: driving normal I shift in between 2000 and 3000 RPM and once i get into 4th gear about 2000 RPM......my car starts shaking badly and i feel like my engine is going to fall out. I have searched and the only thing i can think of is a bad injector...
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I've been doing the 40k service to my R32, and was in the process of changing the spark plugs.
The first three went smooth with no problems, the next three however.... When I pulled the coil packs off, they were covered in rust and corrosion.
The inside of the block leading down to the spark plug (where the coil pack was) also had rust in it. I haven't pulled those three spark plugs out yet. What caused the rusting?
I assume I need to replace these three coil packs, and clean off the existing spark plugs before removing them. Is that a fair assessment?
I haven't had any trouble with misfiring or stalling. The car has been running great.
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I removed all the spark plug wires for testing/cleaning and install new spark plugs, but stupidly forgot to mark the wires where they came off at the Coil Pack. yes, Now I cannot find a diagram for the Driver's Side wire positions at the Coil Pack.
(The Passenger side wires are 1-2-3, starting from the front of the engine, simple enough); The Coil pack itself has numbers stamped on it, so I have the Passenger side done correctly.
But the Driver's Side wires are not in a Sequence of 4-5-6, instead they are 4-6-5 (or something like that), and I can't remember their positions at the Coil Pack. Looking for a drawing showing the Driver's side Wires as they connect to the Coil pack?
Example:
Front Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (Front, Center, or Rear?)
Center Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (F, C, or R?)
Rear Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (F, C, or R?)
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I had taken my engine into the shop and had to have to engine replaced, I would have done it myself and would have saved a bunch of money, however I did not have the time. So I had the same exact engine placed into my MK3 from an old Passet, the only issue I'm having now is the sounding of a misfire on one of the plugs..
Only thing is, all plugs and wires are brand new, so I'm thinking the Coil pack is on it's way out the door. The mechanic said it was the original coil pack so that would make sense. It's a 1997 2.8L 6cyl engine.. I'm looking into purchasing a new pack, and on a website that I had been using a lot lately, only had MK4 coil packs.. Can I replace an MK3 pack with an MK4? Would i have to change the plugs and wires again?
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I'm in the middle of replacing my VC gasket and while I was removing one of the hex bolts that holds it in it started sparking like crazy and turned the tip of the hex wrench glowing red. It didn't do this for the first bolt I took out. I also forgot to disconnect the battery before I started, could that have had anything to do with it?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5. I just changed the spark plugs and wires and now I hear a clicking coming from the middle coil pack. At first I could see it arcing on the bottom to the metal part that holds the plug wire. I removed it and added some dielectric grease and the arcing seemed to stop, but the clicking noise is still happening. Does this indicate a bad ignition coil or do I just need to add more dielectric grease? The idle is still a little rougher than I would like, but I don't want to just throw parts at it.
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I just bought a 2001 Buick Lesabre and it was driving fine until this morning when it misfired on the highway. I was going about 40 mph and I felt a little jerk in my engine and my CEL started to flash. I pulled it over and got it towed to my house and my code reader says a p0300...which is a random misfire code. So I figured i just need a tune up so I went and bought new plugs and wires and replaced the old ones. And to my surprise...still a noisy shakey rough erratic start and idle. Before this there were no problems the car shifted properly to all gears and picked up and accelerated like a champ there were no obvious issues. Now I cant get it out of my driveway. I was wondering if any other problems could cause this misfire, and how to eliminate problems without buying parts?
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I was removing the coil packs on my car in preparation for the new ones coming in. The far right coil pack came out very easily and was about half as long as I expected. The other half of the coil pack was at the bottom of the spark plug well. I reported a misfire yesterday. As the mechanic would say "now there's your problem". removing the bottom half of a coil pack?
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B5 Passat, it has the 2.8 and it has been having moments of shuttering so I did a scan and hit 3 engine falts, I did do a clear and rescan so these are new faults.
3 Faults Found:
17801 - Ignition Coil Power Output 1
P1393 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17802 - Ignition Coil Power Output 2
P1394 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17803 - Ignition Coil Power Output 3
P1395 - 35-10 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
Right now my guess is the coil pack is going out or loose connection to the coil, this coil is roughly 8 months old so it kinda has me at a loss and hoping its not the coil.
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I'm driving down the road yesterday, and going through a intersection, get through it i'm in 3rd gear, 20mph, and my car starts to misfire, so i am like crap coil pack, i changed them all with new plugs maybe 1000 miles ago. Well I slow down so i can turn around and head back to my place slowly a mile away. and it never happens again. Now the car had just had the complete exhaust replaced last week, and literally only 9 miles put on the car before this happened. I drove 35 miles to work today, and roughly 50 miles last night after this and it has not happened anymore. Am i doomed for coil pack failure again?
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2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 - 250k miles had the original plugs and wires ....
First things first - I changed them one at a time and confirmed the truck started and ran after each one was changed. I changed all the plugs on the drivers side with no issue. 4,5,6 ... Then I changed plug 3, rear passenger side plug closet to the firewall.
Truck will not start, turns over great, but will not start. I have confirmed I am getting spark. No clue what could have changed, I just pulled out the old plug and wire put in a new one and it wouldn't start.
My father-in-law said if you have spark check fuel. I recall seeing a post about someone breaking a cable for the coil pack but i have checked and i see nothing broken.
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So I recently got this GTi and I was wondering what steps I should take before putting a bigger turbo on this car and the steps I should take when putting a bigger turbo. What should I do first be for considering a new turbo?
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My car misfired multiple times in two days i replaced coil 1 & 3 & it misfired again i took the coil that i replaced and put it back and the car was fine so. i don't think its the coils and i changed spark plug in coil 1, didn't work so I doubt it's coils.....
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I had a battery light come on and saw the alt wasnt charging my battery. So, I replaced the alt with a rebuilt hitachi. Well it was charging at 14.10 and thought all was well til I went out this weekend and was stranded. Tested the alt with my voltmeter and sometimes its 14 and sometimes the battery drops below 12. I charged the battery up overnight and its holding a good charge. I REALLY dont wanna drop this alternator out again so is there anything else I should check? Im getting the battery tested anyway.
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I have a 2006 Grand Prix and the same coil pack has gone 3 times in one year. Each time i have my coil pack replaced i also get my spark plug replaced. Why does the same coil pack keep going bad and how can i fix it?
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Need to replace coil pack on cylinder #3. What is the firing order? 2004 - V8, 52,000
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Had issues with TBI, rebuilt. Had some starting problems after truck sat for 1 day or more, but would start after a few tries. At one point when it was particularly stubborn, starter lead vibrated off. Once reconnected, truck started, ran fine, but had some electrical humming & radio interference. The starting issue continued with some low rpm stumbling, when driving check engine light would come on at cruising speeds and go off 7-8 seconds after letting off gas.
Had 1 day lest week when I drove a bit more then normal (150+) but ran fine other then engine light. Next day started, but ran horribly rough with violent back fires. At one point stalled and would not restart. It looked and acted like it was flooding itself out and poor spark. Less then a year I replaced cap, rotor and coil. Now I have done all new plugs and wires. Now it appears I have no spark. I had been in the dash messing with the blower motor relay 2 days prior to the stalling and not starting.
Does the ECM control spark? Cant it go bad slowly? And if I had to do alot of cranking of the engine to get it to start, would that have any thing to do with it going bad?
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So before I go buying 10 new coil packs I will test them first.....How many ohms should they read when tested with the meter. I am finding ranges 1.1-1.3. Old or new they are all reading the same. So look my plugs are AWFUL...changing this for sure.
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Today I ran into a problem while i was changing my spark plugs ...two of the plugs were completely covered in oil. I mean oil was literally dripping off those plugs. I have a Passat 1999 2.8L V6. What could be wrong.
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I seem to have a big loss of power. I just got my 337 last week and it was faster than expected with the GIAC chip. I drove down to mass in the rain last weekend and now it seems slow as hell. My question is does a bad coil pack cause a check engine light to go on? My car's check engine light is NOT on and I do have a boost gauge, and it seems to be boosting normal so I imagine it is not a boost leak. If it were misfiring I imagine I would really know it, but I've never had a misfire on a turbo car so I am not sure how bad it is affected.
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1.8 had recent coil pack problems? I recently had a coil pack fail in very hot weather 2 weeks ago. This week during another heat wave I believe the coil was again causing the engine to start missing. I know about VW's past reliability problems concerning coil packs and am now concerned that this may be surfacing again.
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