Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Loud Backfire - Replaced Chain Guide Still Rattling - Only 3 Cylinders Working?
Aug 18, 2016
So, I was driving down the road one day at like 50mph or so and had the loudest backfire I've ever heard. As I was putting my car on the dolly to tow home I heard a bunch of rattling and thought maybe it was a rod bearing or something. I pulled the oil pan and found chunks of my upper chain guide (rod bearings were fine).
I replaced the chain guide and checked the timing hoping it would fix the problem, but it didn't. The rattling was gone but I was only running on 3 cylinders. Did a compression check and had 0 compression in Cyl5 and about 60-70 in Cyl2. I don't remember exactly what the compression was for the other cylinders since it was a while ago.
Started thinking it was bent valves, so I just recently pulled the head off to check them. They all looked like they were seating properly and none looked bent from what I could tell. I'm about to try to put some compressed air through it to see if the valves are leaking anywhere. the plugs, wires, and coilpack are all functioning properly.
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So im trying to diagnose my girlfriends issue with her car. When she starts it, the car will make a very loud rattling sound, not really grinding, but like metal on metal contact. Sometimes the sound goes away, but when the car is cold it is a guarantee. The battery light is also on, which was not the case when the rattle first started. I first thought (and hoped) it was perhaps the serpentine belt tensioner as I researched that when it fails it can make a loud rattle sound.
Once replaced, the same issues occurred. So I went ahead and put the old one back on since it was not the issue. Note that the old one and new one both shared the same tension applied to the belt and the pulley was still smooth without issues.
Using a stethoscope to try to determine the location of the rattle a bit more precisely I found the noise to be coming more from the alternator. Weird because I recently replaced it within the last year. I went ahead and removed the tension from the belt and played with the alternator for a bit. The clutch felt good when i used a screw driver to hold the fan and tried to move the pulley. One direction moved with ease while the other direction refused to budge, perfectly normal as I researched. The thing that I noticed that I thought was unusual was the fact that the shaft of the alternator had some play (Video below).
The belt has plenty of tension on it so i do not believe that it is slipping on the alternator. I push the belt with the tensioner engaged and the tensioner does not budge.
I decided to measure the voltage coming off the alternator with the car running and it was at 10.95 which im pretty sure is very low for these cars.
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I just acquired a 01 wolfsburg jetta 1.8t and first time vw owner.
I just got the car and found that all the pcv ventilation hoses were crumbling and broken down. I replaced everything under the intake up to the y at the valve cover. All was in stock at the dealer was the oil cooler elbow, tee and pcv valve. From there, i made my own hoses using 3/4 hose and couplers.
Before this, it ran fine but sometimes at idle the idle would jump up and down but not die. I also had a couple codes, can't remember what the number was. One was O2 bank 1 sensor 1 lean and i think the other was O2 related.
Now, after trying to fix the leaks. CE light went out but idle still does the same but my boost improved from like 5psi to like 9psi wot. That's not an issue but coming home tonight when i went to second, it felt like it was dragging or not wanting to accelerate or accelerate and like stall for a second. If you blip the throttle it back fires while in second when its doing this.
Only mod on the car i know of is it has a forge DV/blowoff i guess is the correct name. It can be used as a dv or both.
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So working on a 2005 F150 with a 5.4. Started off as a phaser replacement. Turn out the passenger side timing chain guide was badly damaged. Front timing chain cover came off and replaced the guide and phaser. Got everything back together and it ran rough. Pulled the front timing cover off and the passenger side was off a tooth.
Retimed that passenger side and also replaced the tensioner because the seal on the old tensioner wasn't the best. Now rotating the engine, i noticed the tensioner pushes then retracts. Seems like a vacuum is created pulling the plunger in, but not entirely sure. Only the passenger side does this, not the drivers side.
Worried about putting the front cover and valve covers on, buttoning everything together and having it skip another tooth because of slack in the chain. Any fix for it or reason why it does it?
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2001 VR6 GTI....
Already done:
Replaced the coil pack and plugs
Measured resistance of plug wires (all at about 6K Ohm)
Replaced front O2 sensor
Replaced purge solenoid valve
Replaced coolant temp sensor
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Replaced MAF sensor
Cleaned the throttle body
Cleaned the throttle position sensor
Ran a tank of seafoam treatment (injectors were new 6 mos ago.)
Checked running voltage of battery
It was smoking and stinking bad with a rich mixture. It improved with the MAF change but still runs like a farm tractor. Now it idles on 3 or 4 cylinders, runs rough through 3000 RPM then runs cleaner at above 3000 RPM, but only at light throttle. CEL is either on or flashing when driving.
Don't know what to do next - nice car not fun to drive like this. What this could be and how to test it?
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My 2003 Sante Fe has developed a rattling sound in the engine. The oil level has been good. I took it to a dealer for diagnoses and they told me that the engine was gunked up and the timing "chain" tensioner couldn't move to keep it tight and it was rattling. They put some engine cleaner in and changed the oil and wanted me back in 500 to clean it again. I did that again, but the rattle is still there. It gets a little quieter after I have driven it for a while.
My question is doesn't the Sante Fe have a timing belt? If that is the case what do you think the rattle is?
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I have a 2000 VW Golf 2.slow. I have done some research from other threads but I'm wondering if mine is a simpler fix then testing all the wiring. After taking the car to Auto-Zone and having my battery and alternator tested they said the alternator was the problem. I had to wait a day to get paid to buy the alternator so I had them charge the battery. After I put the battery back in and started her up I got a flashing e-brake light, ABS light and no A/C. My A/C clutch compressor isn't kicking in either. I checked my brake fluid and it's fine as well.
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Monday get CEL with codes p0722 and p0322. Car is in limp mode during these codes. Yesterday I change g68 sensor. Cleared codes, rough start but was sitting most of the week. Drove around fine, no limp mode, shifted fine. Started up a few times immediately after. Hours go by I go to leave and it won't turn over though it sounds its wants to. No clue why this is happening or what changing the sensor could have done. This is a 01 GLS 2.0 auto. Not sure where to from here especially since it drove so well afterwards.
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I was driving down a long steep hill on the highway going about 65. I put it into engine braking, B, because I didn't want to just ride the brake the whole way down. The engine was revving pretty loud and with no RPM guide, I had no clue if it was OK, so I ended up going back into D and just rode the brakes all the way downhill.
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My girlfriend has a jetta and I work at a DODGE dealership in service. I recently replaced the water pump and flushed the coolant twice and replaced the coolant with G13 coolant from the local VW dealership. After I finished burping the coolant system of air bubble. After I finished I took it for a spin and being the speed demon I am, I don't hold back on the throttle. I noticed immediately the engine lagging and being extremely sluggish. I ran my shops snap on code scanner on it and I came up with cylinder 1 fuel injector open circuit. Cylinder 6 fuel injector limited power. And last but not least o2 sensor 1 open circuit. If your facing the motor I undid the left motor mount from the frame, lifted the car on a hoist and took the bottom side motor mount off of the motor. I took the cv shaft off of the transmission and lowered the car and jacked the motor up by the oil pan to expose the water pump for removal and replacement. I'm wondering if possibly the o2 sensor could cause the ECU to seize power to two of the cylinders to ensure no engine damage or if its 3 separate problems.
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My exhaust on my 01 was rattling. It was coming from the catalytic converter, I assumed it was the heat shield. Put it up on the lift and lo and behold it was something in the cat that was rattling. I was popping a code for the cat anyways so figured I'd just swap it out. Fast forward to tonight. I get the car back up on the lift and I wiggle the cat but no rattling? I go farther back to the first muffler/resonator now it's rattling. It's not a hanger or a heat shield or metal to metal on the outside, there is obviously something of substantial mass inside of it I can almost feel where it is by wiggling around. I chose to wait and cut the exhaust up a different night because I plan on taking that section out as well now, hoping to get out whatever is rattling. If not I'll just have some spare pipe on hand to replace it.
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I have a mkv r32 turbo. It had C2 910cc software, car ran great. I had to change to UM 870cc software and injectors in order to get UM dsg stage 3 tune. I had it out for test ride, ran nicely for 2 miles. Then i started to increase throttle, a loud back fire, so i pulled over. It stalled, i restarted it, ran for about 5 secs at 14.5 afr, then sputtered to 10s afr, the stalled out completely.
Had it towed home, all 6 plugs were black. VCSD mobile log states multiple misfire and misfire #6. I put new plugs and switched coil packs, same issue.
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2000 2.0 has full oem exhaust, when downshifting it pops, could this be something in the exhaust or fuel? Not sure as it pops about 2-3 times per downshift. No more no less.
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1.6 FSI .. Very long story short, the engine is running like crap, idle is jumping up and down. Almost no power, its stuttering and so on and so on. Well I talked to a mechanic and he found out the problem, a throttle vacuum. (kinda like choke) he explained it as.
The part was ordered, and arrived. Me and my dad tried changing it and we met some struggles. After looking at it closely and trying different things we kinda gave up.
Here is the part that is broken, it adjusts the amount of fuel when its cold vs. hot
We concluded we needed to take the whole intake to access it ?
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Ok, so my 1.8T hasn't really run right in quite a while, it dramatically goes into boost, then sometimes will just backfire and go into soft limp at around 5-6 psi while accelerating.
Specs:
Stock ECU
3" turbo back
TIP
FMIC
Short ram air with K&N
2.0 coils with proper NGK plugs (I cant remember exact name right now)
All evap/SAI and emissions deleted
Coolant ball deleted
Replaced:
- Crankshaft position sensor
- Camshaft position sensor
- MAF (autozone brand )
- Coilpack wire harness
- Swapped between 2 different N75's
- Piston and spring in Forge Splitter
Below is what I pulled with the vagcom cable I just got in the mail today, along with the DTC names I found from Bentley's page. I know the 411 and 441 are from the SAI/Evap delete but other than that what I should replace next?
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Monday, 07 July 2014, 17:30:49.
Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,22,29,35,36,37,39,46,47,55 ,56,57,75,76
[Code] ....
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I have never seen a car with more electrical problems in my entire life. Everything is wrong with this thing. Driver door controls don't work. The only way to get the driver door to roll down is if i take the positive of my battery and put it back on, boom window rolls up and down for 10 mins and than stops working. It literally seems like if i take the positive off my battery it solves all my issues and everything works. The car wont even start in 15 degree weather. I don't even want to know how long it will take me to start this thing in -30 weather. Its got a very loud knocking noise in the right rear. I Haven't been able to go to school for a week cause the thing is stuck in my driveway.
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I've searched but can't find what my problem is , ON idle when clutch is not depressed loud ticking noise , but when I push the clutch in it goes away . Also the ticking noise will get louder if I accelerate . ONLY Im first gear will I hear a loud grinding noise which means I have to quickly switch into second . Sound similar to something being dragged along a fence . Again the grinding sound I'm first will only happen if I'm giving it gas. Car has 325,000 km . Something with the transmission ?
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I know this isn't the usual ticking of the injectors and I believe it's to fast to be a lifter tapping. I believe it's the camshaft chain hitting against the valve cover. I took the valve cover off and the chain is still tensioned tightly so it makes me wonder what this could be..
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I own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t with Gti front end. So I was driving downtown the other day and I bottomed out really hard and cracked my oil pan. I didn't realize it was cracked and leaking so I drove it home, drove fine with no issues at all. When I got home I parked it and went inside and in the morning I came out and tuned it on for maybe ten seconds. It made a really loud ticking sound that was constant and oil pressure was almost all the way down. So I shut it off and looked and saw the oil pan. I fixed the oil pan yesterday and started it up and it sounded really good and drives fine. But I've been hearing a pretty decently loud ticking sound when everything's up to temp and warmed up. The ticking is only at an idle and it drives like it use to just sounds bad at an idle. Some people think it's my oil pump and tensioner, some people thing I ruined the turbo and possibly internals.
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Is it possible that disconnecting battery causes a misaligned throttle body, which in turn causes the EPC light to come on? And does a misaligned throttle body also cause misfiring cylinders (1 & 2 in this case)?
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I am having issues with our 2001 vw jetta wolfsburg edition with a AWW engine the cooling fans not working properly. I had a bad fan and replaced it and since changed the thermo fan switch and the module under the battery and still no luck. With the key off I can jump the fans via the plug for the fan switch only low speed works with the key off. with the key on i can get both speeds of the fan to operate. With the ac on the fans operate.. normal driving the fans will not operate. and the engine will overheat and fans will not go on. Any other relays or sensors that could be faulty?
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