Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Long Starting And Turbo Not Working
May 20, 2015
My stereo fuse had blown off and while trying to find it, i removed all the fuses one by one to see which one was blown. I found the fuse, changed it, stereo was back to life. Only problem is that right before removing the fuses the car was driving normal. After checking the fuses the car seems to take longer to start; starter keeps turning for twice the time it did before. Also it seems as if the turbo is not even there. Btw the car is a golf mk4 tdi 150 bhp 2001 model
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
So I recently got this GTi and I was wondering what steps I should take before putting a bigger turbo on this car and the steps I should take when putting a bigger turbo. What should I do first be for considering a new turbo?
View 1 Replies
Have had this grinding noise going on with my 2001 gti GLS 1.8t, the cam chain tensioner has been replaced recently. Would really like to get this solved and fixed, car has 81k miles.
Found this video on youtube, same model and exact same noise as mine : [URL] ,,,,
View 3 Replies
Currently own a 2001 vw golf gls 2.0 with 223000 kms on it. used specifically as a beater car. Noticed that it has all of a sudden started to make a creaking sound when it has run for a long period of time. Stops when you hit a speed of around 50 kms/hr.
View 1 Replies
I just got a 2001 Jetta 1.8t 100k miles, and had some repairs done - timing belt - K03S Turbo - Forge Tip - 2.5 Turboback Exhaust. I bought the car without a working turbo, yesterday I got the car back from the shop and it was a night and day difference..... but to my point, today I had some CEL's pop - Charge Pressure control positive deviation, Pressure drop between turbo and throttle valve, and secondary Air injection system incorrect flow detected. Now I have never owned a turbocharged car before, but when my windows are rolled up and im accelerating, I can hear what I am guessing is the turbo starting to spin over by my passenger side(2k ish rpms+) except it doesn't have clean spin sounds, kinda sounds like bearings are goofed or something. This noise only happens when I am accelerating or cruising? I also have felt really no change is boost or power!!
View 2 Replies
I am absolutely stumped and so are two mechanics I've been to. Randomly when I go to start the car the battery is so dead it won't start. Car is an AWD 2001 1.8T Jetta.
Replaced battery and alternator at my regular mechanic, all ground wires look great and couldn't find any shorts. There is a 11 Amp draw from my battery, took it to a shop that specializes in VW/Audi and they hooked it up to Vagcom and it showed absolutely nothing wrong. He left the meter hooked up and pulled every single fuse in the car and there was only like a 0.01 drop, nothing significant. When he went to take my car out of the shop, wouldn't start. So he put a battery pack on it, still wouldn't start. Took off both terminals on the battery, put them back on, put on the battery pack, and car started.
The aftermarket deck in it is just a JVC single din, doesn't seem to have any issues.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2001 E-350 w/7.3. When I start the truck first thing or when engine is cooled down it starts fine. I checked the high pressure pump pressure and it is 500 - 600 psi start up great. But when engine warms and try to start it it has long crank before starting. I checked pressure and it is between 425 to0 450 and takes awhile for it to get to 500 or better. Is this a cause of the high pressure oil pump ? I changed the oil and still does same thing. Also I noticed that after engine is hot and I try to start it, while cranking the engine the oil gauge does not move. I don't know if it supposed to when you crank it or not. I thought on other 7.3's I've worked on that the gauge builds up pressure....
View 14 Replies
I am having issues with our 2001 vw jetta wolfsburg edition with a AWW engine the cooling fans not working properly. I had a bad fan and replaced it and since changed the thermo fan switch and the module under the battery and still no luck. With the key off I can jump the fans via the plug for the fan switch only low speed works with the key off. with the key on i can get both speeds of the fan to operate. With the ac on the fans operate.. normal driving the fans will not operate. and the engine will overheat and fans will not go on. Any other relays or sensors that could be faulty?
View 2 Replies
2001 jetta 4 dr. 2.0 gas
The other day I was driving and the air just quit. No screeches bangs or anything. I checked all the fuses and realized my main fan wasn't working.
I replaced both fans but still no air. When I push the button on the dash for recirculate my brake light on the instrument panel comes on.
View 1 Replies
So I just got a new car tonight (01 Jetta 1.8t) traded my tdi for it. They failed to tell me about the lighting problem. The dash light (blue ones that light up whole dash) only work sometimes. Don't work when headlight switch is on (have euro switch) but they will work sometimes if you put the left blinker or hazard lights on. Illumination for window / lock controls are glowing red, same as all the buttons by the vents up top of the radio, ac / climate control lights not working. They did end up telling me that they swapped the other car they had (2L golf mk4) and they swapped in that dash and it worked no issues. Do I need a whole new cluster?? Or is there something I can try to fix it?
View 1 Replies
So I bought an 01 GTI last week with a decent amount of things pre-modified including a Jetta front end swap? Anyway the guy I bought it from knew absolutely nothing about what had been done to the car other than the fact that there was an HID kit installed and it was set up to run high beams only.
I figured I'd remove the HID's until i drop some cash on a pair of nice projector housings. I removed them and plugged up some nice sylvania bulbs as per the OEM standard 9007, and figured I'd have no issues... They are still stuck on high beam only... What could be causing this?
View 1 Replies
I just got a 2001 Jetta 2.0 (I know slow but I needed a work vehicle) and the dash lights and passenger rail lights don't work, the check engine light, fuel light, all those type of lights work, but the speedometer and blinkers and that stuff don't work, and then the blinker works in the back but no break light. I'm pretty good mechanically but when it comes to electrical stuff I'm completely stumped. What it could be? I haven't looked into anything due to just getting it last night and having to work this morning.
View 3 Replies
My problem(s) are as follows:
I recently got a 2001 VW Golf 1.8T from a buddy in the Marines. He delivered it to me at my home almost 4 hours away, as described, reportedly without any issues. I got all of the paperwork transferred so that my wife could have a solid daily driver, only to discover ...
1) The vehicle in question was apparently used by a car audio company local to him, who has done some serious screwing with the electrical system in order to incorporate (and then remove) their crap.
2) When shifting through the gears, and coming to 4th gear, you get a couple of seconds of initial acceleration, followed by deceleration and RPMs falling, which in turn leads to the speedo dropping.
3) The same thing happens in 5th gear.
4) The only option is to downshift to a lower gear, which she did, and was apparently cruising along at 60 mph in 2nd gear, as 3rd gear was behaving the same way as 4th/5th upon downshifting. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I'm pretty sure this is a BAD thing .
View 9 Replies
Just bought my 5th Vdub an 01 Jetta Wolfsburg with 1.8T and 5 speed manual. I bought it from a local dealer and found the speedo not working. they ordered parts for it to fix that and the front end. They tried to fix it by replacing the VSS. CEL was off when I first started driving it then came on shortly and began to stutter. I haven't hooked my vag-com yet because I just got home with it a little while ago. I think it may be a loose wire because it also beeps and fuel gauge goes to empty around corners. Typical areas to look for etc???
View 13 Replies
So yesterday i decide to race one of my friend and a couple of seconds later i get a CEL. So today in the morning i went to autozone to check what the problem is with a scanner and i get this:
Did i f up my turbo? I am APR 2+ with only 4700 miles, what should i do?!
View 22 Replies
Well I have been working on my build for about 2 1/2 years. Built the motor for the turbo set up that I had on the car and a few other goodies.
Now the motor turns over with no issue and I have spark. So I know my problem lies in the fuel delivery. My pump tested fine and I have fuel at the rail. So my next guess is the injectors. After trying to start the car I pulled 2 spark plugs out and they where dry. So this proved to me there's an issue here.
Before I go and rip my manifold off and start pulling injectors is there anything I could check first? I'm thinking from sitting that have gotten dirty and clogged.
Looking for wire diagram for the injectors on the vr6?
View 9 Replies
I have a GTI with a turbo that leaks oil.I don't exactly know what to do. The guy i bought it from said it had "Bad Seals" I've seen many rebuild kits online for my turbo(KO3) Looking through the kits i really only sea one seal. One single O-ring. So that doesn't seem right but this is my first turboed vehicle so i can honestly say I don't know much. Should I buy the Rebuild kit or should I just buy a new Turbo? Any video to reference too because i don't even know how to remove my turbo.
Also, on a side note. I was being a show off one day and tried speeding off like a dick.I went from first and grinded HARD into second and since then I haven't had first gear. Now i suspect its my synchros. But like i've said before. I don't know much.
View 3 Replies
So, I have a 2005 gti 1.8t, has 110k on it, just did a 3" straight pipe, and while a buddy and I were installing my new pipe, and straight pipe, he said my turbo seals were going bad. I could get the k04 cause it handles better, or get a rebuild kit. Well, today when I give it throttle, it almost makes a knocking sound from the turbo? Not from the front of the car, but at the end of straight pipe, you can hear it in that constant spool. What could this be? Time for the k04. Car has unitronic stage 2, so it gets ran hard sometimes.
View 21 Replies
I have this odd turbo squeal in 1st and 2nd gear WOT at low rpm... turbo is new and was replaced in june of this year... had no issues with it up till probably a few weeks ago when the squealing started... it doesn't happen in any other gear at WOT, just 1st and 2nd... where do I start looking?
Here's a video of the squeal : [URL] .....
View 6 Replies
So, I was driving down the road one day at like 50mph or so and had the loudest backfire I've ever heard. As I was putting my car on the dolly to tow home I heard a bunch of rattling and thought maybe it was a rod bearing or something. I pulled the oil pan and found chunks of my upper chain guide (rod bearings were fine).
I replaced the chain guide and checked the timing hoping it would fix the problem, but it didn't. The rattling was gone but I was only running on 3 cylinders. Did a compression check and had 0 compression in Cyl5 and about 60-70 in Cyl2. I don't remember exactly what the compression was for the other cylinders since it was a while ago.
Started thinking it was bent valves, so I just recently pulled the head off to check them. They all looked like they were seating properly and none looked bent from what I could tell. I'm about to try to put some compressed air through it to see if the valves are leaking anywhere. the plugs, wires, and coilpack are all functioning properly.
View 2 Replies
My car has been throwing an ABS code for a long time now and I've finally decided to actually deal with it.
The code is: 00285 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Right (G45): Electrical Fault in Circuit
After reading that this could be due to a bad sensor, I replaced the front right sensor, but I am still getting the exact same code. I used measuring blocks in VCDS-Lite to check out what was going on with the wheel speeds and found that at speeds less than 20 km/h, the front right sensor reads 0 km/h, while all the others continue to read the proper speed.
View 6 Replies
