Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Light Stays On Even When The Key Is Off
Oct 9, 2014
Even when the key is off this light is on. The rear defrosters are not getting hot, and when you turn the car on and use the defrosters the light will brighten. It happened to my car while it was sitting in the school parking lot.
The cause of this problem I assume is a short in the wires going from the c pillar to the hatch.
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I just put the rubber cover back on them and the light turned off. Insulation on some of the wires was cracked and falling off. I will fix the wires with either electrical tape or new wires depending on the condition when I am able to do further inspection
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I have 2001 Wolfsberg Edition 4D jetta (gas) with 180,000 miles, manual transmission. The engine light has been on for years and years. Usually what I do is take it in for an oil change just before a smog. They re-set the codes. I drive it to my office and back and the light would stay off and I could smog it. Until recently. In April, I took the car in for an oil change. And when I picked it up, it ran terribly. It was lurching like crazy. I had to keep slip the clutch to drive it until it warmed up and the it would mostly start running OK. I took it back to my mechanic and he thought it was a timing belt. I had already changed the timing belt at 119,000 miles.
It seemed odd to me that this procedure needed to be done again after 60,000 miles, but I went ahead and had it done. That did not fix the problem. Then the mechanic replaced the air mass meter. That didn't work. Then he replaced the coils. That didn't work. My mechanic has had the car for a month and can't seem to figure out what to do. He keeps getting different error codes - codes that don't seem to make sense to him. The car needs to a smog (my registration date is June), but he can't smog it because we can't get the check engine light to stay off long enough.
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I have this annoying vibration that starts at 85-90 mph and stays relatively constant above that, but doesn't get super intense or feel like the car is going to fall apart. Its a light vibration that I can feel at 9 and 3 on the steering wheel.
Background: So about 6 months ago I realized my CV boot was torn. I tried to replace CV joint, but they sent wrong joint(Meyle) so we ended up trying to force it onto the CV shaft for like an hour before giving up. I remember one of my BMW Technician buddies literally smashing the joint onto the shaft with a plastic mallet but it just wouldn't go over the circlip.
We ended up just replacing the boot and putting the old CV joint back on, but we didn't have any extra grease to put in it because we had already put it into the new joint that wouldn't fit. Since then I've basically tried everything I can think of, including:
-Balanced and Road Forced
-Laser Alignment
-Replaced all 4 tires
-Fixed bent rims
-Refreshed suspension/steering:
-All new F+R LCA bushings
-New inner/outer tie rods
-New ball joints
-New sway bar bushings
-New strut top mounts
So what the hell is keeping her from being smooth as butter over 90? Did we screw up the shaft by beating on it? Or is it just vibrating from the lack of grease/damage from torn boot? Was I supposed to align the shaft when putting it back on or something?
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I have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
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Checking fuses and relays due to flashing brake light.now the air bag light is on all the time and now the starter won't crank with the key. All dash lights come on as normal , and brand new battery. Good grounds and fuses.
Really frustrating because I have no Viacom or access to anyone who does. I am in elkin nc and closest dealer is 50 miles away!!! Tried clearing the cry by pulling the cables and touching them together then reconnect to battery after 2 minutes.
Pull the key and I can still turn the radio on. Disconnected battery for 2 hours and still no safe mode on radio. Kind of hoping that was why no crank , but no such luck.
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After I could not figure why I was having the alarm light I drove the car to a mechanic, explained my sleepless nights and many hours of problem analysis, and then the mechanic took his code reader, connected to the OBD car port, made a few clicks, and charged me $45 and then sent me off. The alarm light has not been back since - it blinks as expected when I start the car.
On my further research I have found that VW airbag light will come on if you check airbag with your ghetto OBD code reader - exactly what I had read! It registers "high resistance", and must be reset by someone with a qualified code reader!
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My issues: when I'm on gear 1 for example, on hot days, and only on hot days ( 25 deg.c and more) when I put it on neutral it suppose to go at "home" position ( i think this is how you guys call it, like align with the 3rd gear) But it stays align the the first.
Same with all the gears. It's stays aligned with the gear I just left.
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Electrical issue that I have been unable to resolve following other threads on here. Door ajar (to turn off radio and turn on interior lights) not functioning. My son has to lock the driver door from the outside when exiting to turn off radio. Alarm does sound and red light starts flashing indicating that part is functioning. Same thing when entering vehicle, the interior lights do not come on when opening the door. All other window switches and door locks function from driver door panel, except right rear door lock does not, he has to unlock by using the interior handle. Last one but unsure if related is the anti-slip (ASR) dummy light stays on in the instrument cluster, and doesn't change when pushing the button. I have gone through the driver door switch, cleaned/lubed/etc, but no luck. If it's a ground issue, where should I concentrate our efforts?
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My oil pressure light is blinking and there is a faint smell of burning oil. I recently had an oil change after letting my car sit for 5 months after the oil pan was replaced. I have checked oil levels and it is just right. I have asked around and everyone comes up with a different answer but they also say they are guessing due to lack of experience with VW's. The light only comes on when the car is moving. When idling, everything appears to be fine.
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I have a 2001 GTI VR6 5 speed. It has an intermittent no start. When you turn the key on it will start as long as the EPC light was lit before cranking. If that light does not come on, it will not start. I also can't communicate with the ECU via the OBD2 connector if the EPC light does not come on. So I am assuming that the ECU/ECM is not getting power when this condition occurs. Is there an ECU relay that is possibly out? If so, what is its location?
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Rear wiper stays on regardless of switch position. It runs as if the switch was on - intermittently. No critters chewing, Stops with the fuse pulled. We get lots of snow and I need it, rain-x won't cut it. It has 80k on the clock and everything works perfectly. the wiper homes between runs. Disconnected the battery for 5 mins for fun. Is this switch prone to this kind of failure?
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I recently purchased a 01 1.8t GTi with a blown timing belt. I got the car rebuilt, did all maintenance work like brakes , hub/bearings, bushings, oil and all the good stuff that goes into getting the car back up and running. I've finally started driving it and I'm having a weird issue.
Yesterday , I stopped at a red light and the car randomly died on me. Pushed it off the road and checked things out but I couldn't see if there was anything wrong but about 10 minutes later , I was able to restart the car and drive home. Now today , on my way home from work the car starts back firing and I lost all power and rolled to the side of the road where he car would just continue to crank. I was able to get it restarted but it cut out again a couple seconds after. I don't have my code scanner but I know I do have one lean code for something. Maybe cause I have a leak between turbo and dp. I don't have access to vagcom unfortunately..
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So my gf's check engine light on her 01 Golf flashes once in a while, and it misfires. But the thing is, it doesn't stay on, and it's once in a while (like once or twice a week). She has new spark plugs, and new wires. I have a feeling it's the coil pack, but I really don't know if it needs to be replaced until the check engine light actually stays on.
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Just a few days ago I was driving and I noticed as I went over 35 mph my car would stutter and the check engine light would start flashing. And when I slowed back down the car drove fine. I'm wondering what the problem could be? Feels like the car is losing power. Car is currently at 119k miles.
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The A/C does not blow cold. The Compressor clutch does kick on and stay on The passenger side fan kicks on only (I think the driver side is toast but i need to test it to confirm) The system has 45psi on the low side
I did not check the high side as I don't have a gauge for it but will get one if I need to test that. So my thoughts are that my expansion valve is toast which is what expands the hot liquid and turns it to cool liquid so the A/C gets cold. I think this because it seems all of the other components work.
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I just got a 2001 Jetta 2.0 (I know slow but I needed a work vehicle) and the dash lights and passenger rail lights don't work, the check engine light, fuel light, all those type of lights work, but the speedometer and blinkers and that stuff don't work, and then the blinker works in the back but no break light. I'm pretty good mechanically but when it comes to electrical stuff I'm completely stumped. What it could be? I haven't looked into anything due to just getting it last night and having to work this morning.
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My coolant indicator light keeps returning on my 01 Jetta GLS 2.0
I have searched in the forums and read that its likely a coolant sensor and requires replacing the coolant tank. I am wondering if there are other possible causes as I want to drive it for another 3k before replacing tank (as I will be having timing belt replacement and coolant flush at that time). Previous owner had universal (green) coolant in and it will be replaced with proper coolant when the flush is done.
The indicator comes on within a minute of starting the car. The thermostat seems to operate just fine and car is not overheating. I have topped off with diluted water, it definitely has proper level.
Safe to ignore as long as I watch coolant level and temp?
On a separate issue: I tried to use code reader but it would not connect to my car (had successfully connected at some point prior), I believe it may be because I have an aftermarket radio (the K-wire issue?). If that is true, should it resolve if I swap the stock radio back in? I need to be able to connect to the car eventually when it is time to renew registration (for state emissions control testing).
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2004 Santa fe- air bag light stays on-
Any trouble shooting protocol to follow?
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I purchased a 2001 Jetta and it ran alright for a few days then all these problems started arising. The engine would not idle correctly and then a week later my EPC light started coming on. After all of that I have replaced the Throttle body ( Bosch) the MAF ( after market) and gas pedal ( after market). It ran fine for a day and then same issues. I had a mechanic relearn the throttle which had the Engine light go away for about a day. Now all the issues have came back. Here are the main problems.
1. Randomly lose throttle ( up hill, down hill, highway does not matter)
2. I randomly get stuck in park and cannot shift at all.
This is extremely troublesome since every time I lose throttle i have to put the car in park, shut her off and turn her back on to be able to drive. I keep getting the Throttle and MAF codes. I also checked on the recalled parts and they have already been replaced. I have read many reasons as to what would cause this but even the mechanic doesn't even know and I cant pay for him to check the electric. Also when driving if it is raining my car will not start or when it does it chugs. I was running through a puddle and after the water splashed the car basically would no longer run.
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So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
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I noticed this morning that since last night the passengers side red interior door light stays on after the door is shut. The dome light shuts off once the door is closed however the red light does not. I've checked all four door light sensors that actuates the interior lighting but they all function correctly without any resistance or stickiness. The drivers side red interior light functions as it should but the passengers side stays on all the time.
I'm worried the battery will be drained if the light continues to stay on. I'd light to figure out why this is happening. If I choose to remove the bulb will there will be a draw on the battery? And do I have to remove the entire door panel in order to remove the bulb?
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