I'm trying to get to the manual transmission input shaft seal on my 01 GTI w/12V VR6. I've removed the 3 bolts surrounding the input shaft but the metal shroud underneath the 3 bolts seems to be adhered tightly in place. You can see the 3 bolt holes and metal shroud in this photo: [URL]
Am I on the right track in trying to remove that shroud? If so, how do I loosen it?
I have noticed a few drips coming from the rear axle input shaft where the drive shaft connects. It has only done it once and there is no residue on the trailer hitch so I know it didn't dump everything on the road. If change this seal, how difficult is it and do you have any information which might make it easier.
View 14 RepliesI'm replacing my clutch components in my 89 Ranger with an M5OD transmission. While I'm doing it I'm going to replace the input shaft seal on the transmission. I'm looking for the torque specs for the housing that holds the seal.
Also, should there be any play on the input shaft? My transmission has never made any noise but I noticed some slight play in the shaft.
I have a 1997 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed manual. We are rebuilding the transmission ourselves, and taking on the task has been pretty hard. We are stuck at the input shaft. How to take the input shaft out? Do you need a special tool?
View 1 RepliesMy gf's son has an old 2000 Jetta 2.0 and when the check engine light came on and shifted poorly, it was diagnosed as a problem with the transmission input and/or output sensors. Where are they located exactly?
Both look pretty much the same, but here's a pic of one of them : [URL] ....
I have a 2001 Santa Fe GLS 4WD, I've had my Auto Transmission Speed Sensor replaced and will have the output speed sensor replaced to have speedometer/odometer and cruise control fixed. While having the first sensor replaced my mechanic noticed the Input Shaft Speed Sensor Connector (the plug on the wiring harness) was cracked. I've been looking everywhere for this connector. I don't want to buy the complete wiring harness because I've heard it is very expensive. I want just the connector. What is the part number of just the connector?
View 2 RepliesI got a fmx mated to 351w, trans was on back of a 302 and no problems other than small leak around tail shaft seal but shifted great. Now I decided to install mildly built 351w so figured it'd be a good time to build tranny. Installed after build and immediately it was slipping. Pulled trans out took it back to shop and he said the forward seal was blown. Installed again, after about 15 miles same result! What could be causing this. It is fine in reverse, but slips bad in forward gears.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 4 cylinder Santa Fe. And atm I'm trying to replace the balance shaft oil seal but am having major problems getting it out.
View 2 RepliesI'm trying to replace my transmission output shaft seal on my 2wd and I can't seem to get the seal removed. I couldn't find anything to rent from O'rielly's or Advance Autoparts that would work. It's in there really tight ....
View 10 RepliesAfter 9 solid years of service, my a/c compressor finally failed. According to the shop, its leaking at the center seam of the compressor. If the system is charged, then the compressor will operate until the low pressure switch shuts it down. My question is this: Can this compressor be rebuilt? If so, where can I get the parts (I'm assuming the shaft seal is leaking).
Also, a quick search on eBay provides several compressors that fit my car; however, some of them are listed as HS-17 compressors and others are HS-18. My car (according to the A/C sticker on the hood) says I have an HS-18 compressor. Are these two interchangeable? I'm asking because if the current compressor can't be rebuilt, then I will have to buy either a reman. or new unit.
Car: 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe, GLS, 2.7L V6
A few years ago my auto transmission in my 3.5 L engine hyundai santa fe started shifting rough from 2nd to 3rd gear, i did a trans flush and changed the input output sensors, anyway last week it started again, so i just changed the input output sensors again, it did not fix the prob this time, do you think a flush would work.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Jetta 2.0 with the drive by wire throttle and I've been having some problems with it lately.
When on the highway (at a constant speed) sometimes it's almost like you take your foot off the accelerator pedal, then when you go to press it more, nothing happens, until you pump it a few times, it works again. This sounds like an electrical problem to me, not fuel or spark, because it's not sputtering at all, it just ignores your accelerator input. Is the "throttle module" a serviceable part?
Noticed some fluid on the bottom of the Ex a few months ago and have been watching it since. Drained and refilled with the XL-12 fluid at the time and based on what I can see the likely culprit is the input seal on the transfer case. I have searched high and low both here and via the almighty google with little info to be found. Is it simply remove transfer case, replace input seal, reseal case connection, and refill?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 jetta city with the single DIN radio (stock). I would like to have an aux input or usb input. I would like to know what would be the better option? (I don't want to go aftermarket). I know that there is a lot of option but I don't know witch one will work on my radio. (no pre-wired cd changer, no satellite).
Also, on the bottom right of the radio there is two kind of blank plugs (circle and rectangular). It looks like a usb and aux input would fit right there. I saw a picture in witch someone as the exact same radio but with a usb input (instead of the rectangular thing).
I have a 2002 santa fe v6 all AWD. It has already had a used trans installed about 3 years ago. Just the other day the front main seal in the trans starts pouring. I took it to a transmission guy it cost me about 600 to have one put in it, he said that was the the problem he got it fixed he drove it and it was all good. Get in it driving it home and everything goes fine. Then after about 5 or 6 miles the trans goes crazy, so I am wondering whats up. I get out and look and its out of fluid because the seal done blew back out. I call him he said he fixed it not his problem it worked when it left his shop.S o my question is what would make the seal need replaced again 5 miles down the road is it a torque converter problem, or something in the trans bad, or did the guy just not do it right. He told me to bring it back and he would look at it but I've done spent all i had on it for him to fix it.
View 2 RepliesI had the abs come on on dry pavement.. I changed the front ring gears,, Bought 2 new axles with ring gears all new on there.. fixed the issue.. Now i have a oil leak--transmission oil at the driver's side axle.. Is that the seal there in the trans that should be replaced? difficult? Why leak now if it wasn't leaking before..
View 5 Replieswe have a 97 dodge neon soc that keeps leaking at the cam shaft seal. it has been replaced 3 times now? It keeps working it's way out and leaks oil.
View 1 RepliesPassat, 2003, 5 speed, turbo, 1.8T engine, 4 door, 66K miles.
No oil on garage floor and tiny amount of oil at rear of engine, Is this urgent?
(I have had many cars with no seal or gasket issues- especially at 66K).
Well, the ac in my truck has been less than exciting since I've owned it and its time to address it before another trip.
I crawled under last night to explore the Ac clutch air gap and found that the shaft seal is leaking and clutch is grooved pretty bad and covered in oil.
I'm thinking it's time for a compressor, clutch, orifice tube, expansion valve and reciever/dryer. Does that about sum it up? I haven't messed with AC systems much outside of my simple jeep system that was as easy as two seals and recharge in my garage to fix it.
Do I need to flush the lines out? Should I do that at all? Motor craft worth the cost over something like four seasons? Its almost twice the cost but in the end if something goes I'm further downstream after freon etc to charge it and the possible shop charge if I pay to have to done.
I have an 01 Jetta, 2.0L, 5 Speed manual transmission.
The issue seems to be that the shifter wont shift the transmission "all the way" into 1st, 3rd, and 5th gear. When I shift into the gears that are forward on the shifter, it will go into gear, but then the shifter (in the car) moves back toward neutral a little. I can drive in 1st no problem, but in 3rd and 5th some weird stuff happens...
While driving, when I shift from second to third I have to keep my hand on the shifter otherwise I get kicked out of gear. Also, when I drive on the highway, I periodically get kicked out of 5th gear if I don't keep my hand on the shifter (usually, when I let off the gas).
Anyway, being that I've fixed many problems on many cars by searching forums and google, I spent the last few days trying to figure out the problem by looking through the forums, but I have yet to find a solution. I tried adjusting the shift linkage using the method described in the dieselgeek video on youtube [URL] ...., but it didn't work. I'm pretty certain it's not the shifter bushings because i have almost no play in the shifter in neutral.
I had someone cycle through the gears while I watched under the hood, and its clear that the cable that controls the forward and back part of the shifting is not pulling back far enough on the counterweight on the transmission. (When shifting into 1st, 3rd, and 5th.) When the shifter puts the tranny into these gears I can still move the counterweight on the tranny further than the shifter will pull in in the same direction.I tried adjusting the linkage to compensate for this, but the cable is as far into the cable end as it will go...
I installed a JDM 2ZZ-GE engine and 6 speed manual trans-axle into my 2000 Celica GT.
I have ran into a interesting problem. I replaced the output shaft seals and now whenever the car is in the air and the suspension is unloaded (the drive axle is pulled slightly from the trans) the drivers side seal leaks a bit of gear oil. The drive axle is snapped into place. Nothing leaks when the car is on the ground.
I did reuse the old drive axles, which had a lot of miles on them but still appeared good and useable. I have been told to replace the new seal because it may be damaged, but I am wondering if it may be that the drive axle end is worn.
I have seen this with harmonic balancers for engines. They even sell a replacement sleeve for harmonic balancers so you can re-use the old worn one.