Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 Gti VR6 Stuck In Reverse / Clutch Won't Fully Disengage
Dec 14, 2014
My 01 GTi (12v VR6) was having some trouble shifting into, and out of, first and reverse so after a bit of research I decided to try adjusting the shift linkage as it seemed like a possible easy fix. After doing that I tried backing it up in the driveway and after a couple of shifts to different gears it ended up getting stuck in reverse. When I pushed in the clutch pedal to let it roll forward I noted that it seemed to be resisting rolling forward despite the steep incline. Once it reached a less steep incline it stopped rolling forward completely, so I'm thinking that it probably won't come out of gear because the clutch won't disengage all the way.
I've done some searching around and from what I've read so far it sounds like it could be a worn or damaged clutch fork, the hydraulic lines, master or slave cylinder, or even a broken clutch plate. What I don't want to do is pull the transmission and clutch, only to find that it was something much easier to fix.
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I came home last night and rolled into the driveway. With the car in neutral I took my foot off the clutch and the car stalled. I get in the car this morning to go to work, and it's still happening. I put it in reverse to see if it will drive.....and now it's stuck in reverse.
I can't get it into any other gear or neutral..........even when the car is off. I've unattached the linkage, and the shift knob moves freely.....so I don't think it's that. I found these old threads (one even mine)
[URL] ...
[URL] ....
[URL] .....
So I'm lead to believe that the master/slave cylinder is acting up again. Also, how can I get it into neutral so I can at least get it towed and stop blocking my driveway?
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Ok santa fe 2006 (facelift) clutch was slipping. We've put new clutch kit in it (thrust bearing; friction and pressure plate). We discovered it had already had the DMF concersion to single mass. So we ordered the single mass clutch kit for it and fitted. All back together, clutch won't disengage and allow you to put it in gear!!! So took it all apart again to check the fitting as the inspection hatch it just didnt appear all fingers on the pressure plate was being pulled.. all looked correct, thrust bearing snapped in to place as it should... we got box back on (making sure the lever entered the thrust bearing correctly) and still no luck. When you press the clutch you can pull the rubber on the slave cylinder back and the piston moves all the way to the circlip. There appears to be movement on the pressure plate in the box. At a complete loss.......... what could have happened?
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Santa Fe 2003 petrol manual 2.4
I had a slipping clutch so decided to change it myself.
I replaced the Dual Mass Flywheel the clutch pressure plate and clutch plate.
Re assembled and the car started first time but the clutch would not disengage.
Pressed the clutch peddle down and it went to the floor until the fluid had filled then it went solid.
I pressed it down again and the clutch did not release so pressed harder and 'pop' the master clynder went - but the clutch would not disengage.
Taken the gearbox back off now and the release bearing is in sit it just would not disengage -
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We swapped transmissions in 01 elantras.. We installed a new clutch kit . When we go to start the clutch won't completely disengage, it only pulls it some, not enough. We replaced Tran fluid and bled it. We swapped out the throw out bearing arm and at first it worked now it doesn't..
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I have a 2003 Jetta GLI. Thus morning driving into work my clutch pedal stuck to the floor. I was able to pull it back it and make it to work, but when i got to work i noticed fluid dripping from underneath my car.
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98 Jetta TDI hydraulic system ... We just received this vehicle from my mother in law, who is not driving any more. It's a cream puff--79,000 miles, beautiful condition. Problem is the clutch engages lower and lower to the floor, and eventually the shifter gets stuck in gear. The brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor when at stops on hills. Our mechanic tells us these two are connected because both the clutch and brake run off the same hydraulic system.
1st time he said the fluid was filthy, and he emptied the system and put in clean fluid. Worked for a little while and then we were back where we started. Second time he replaced a couple parts on the clutch, replaced this fluid, and this time it ran like a dream for a little over a month. Then the problem just returned. Again he says the fluid is filthy, and now we are looking at replacing the master cylinder and again changing the fluid. The theory behind why this is happening is that my mother in law let the car sit for half a year before passing it on to us. She didn't do much driving the 6 months before that either. I've done research, and this doesn't appear to be a common problem by any means on these cars.
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I have a 2001 F550 flatbed tow truck with a 7.3 and the ZF 6 trans. i put a Luk clutch flywheel pressure plate new throw out bearing new clutch fork New clutch slave cylinder and master set up. When i push the clutch in it is VERY EASY compared to the way it was before. Ane when you push the clutch in and put it in gear you can hear the clutch disc rubbing on the flywheel and if you lift your foot the thickness of a hair the truck takes off. Also i can't engage my PTO because the clutch is not disengaging all the way. there is No adjustments on this set up. What Now.
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In every other manual transmission vehicle I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Is it normal that the clutch in my 2002 Hyundai Elantra engages when the pedal is so far away from the floor? When I say far away from the floor I mean within an inch of the pedal being fully released.
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I was driving along nicely, then faced with a climb up the hill, I floored it ... the throttle stuck fully and the revs up to 5000 RPM and the governor kicked in, zoom ... hmmm zoom hmmm .. I was lucky cuz I shut off the engine and was able to coast back down to my driveway. No code reader, I decided "how hard can that be" since it happened once before and then worked ok for 6 months ... maybe a linkage, etc
A friend looked at it and tried the old process of elimition ... unplugging the MAss Air Flow connector ... trying it ... then the TPS on the throttle body. He suspected one or both. So I replaced them... happy to get the sucker started without revving uncontrollably. But the pedal was sticky, the idle speed too high and when you press the brake pedal ( and nothing else ) the car stalls, putt putt putt kerplunk. Starts up again tho. but impossible to drive like this. So I gets me a code reader .. follow the directions and this is what I get now
P0441 Evaporative Emission system Incorrect Purge Flow ( this is an easy one even for me ... the engine light came on last time I fueled up - gas cap was not turned enough ) no brainer
P0122 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0101 MAss or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range / PErformance
P0222 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor B Circuit Low Input
P2119 Throttle Actuator Control Throttle Body Range / PErformance
P2112 Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Closed
P2422 Evaporative Emission System Vent Valve Stuck Closed
Puzzling since whatever broke started working again spontaneously last time. I figure, it cannot be all the above at the same time .. perhaps one of the early sensors?
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I'm just over 45k miles, have a new mechatronics unit as of 39k, and I am beginning to see a new symptom for the first time since the replacement.... wondering if any of you have experienced this.
It's happened 2 or 3 times in the last couple weeks. The symptom suggests the clutch is not fully engaging. It is as if I had the clutch pedal in while in first gear, and I am feathering the clutch. This happens in "M" mode -- but I basically only drive in M so cannot say if it may happen in D or S.
Today, for example, I was at a red light on an incline. Light turns green, right foot off the brake and onto the throttle. Engine free spins up to nearly 4k and the car hold its position on the incline, without any movement or even a hint of movement. But there apparently was enough force going to the wheels to keep the car on the incline.
The engine does not rev as if it is in LC mode. It is free revving without any sound of it being under load.The clutches seem ok, this is not a clutch slippage problem. It's something occurring in the DSG's control.
I called my service advisor and he looked me up and said I have the latest and greatest MU, and my VIN does not qualify for the recent MU recall that is in the works. He said to just keep an eye on it for now (of course)
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I went driving today and for a moment I could engage/disengage the clutch pedal with little to no effort. It goes back to the normal force after 3-4 shifts.
It's the exact opposite of what's happening in this thread. [URL] ....
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My 2001 Golf seems like the clutch is slipping. It bangs into gear at low revs so bad you think you've hit a large pothole. I'm hoping it's not the whole transmission that needs replacing, because we only have 135000 on the clock.
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After coming to a complete stop & starts driving again, I notice that the brakes squeaks a few turns & then stops. It seems that the brake calipers does not fully disengage from the rotors.
2006 Touareg V6 Silver
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I have a 2001 jetta with a Vr6 the clutch petal just goes to the floor. No return. What's could be wrong?
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Within the past 2 weeks I've been noticing that when I shift hard into 2nd and 3rd, I manage to grind the gears slightly. At first I thought that maybe I wasn't engaging the clutch fully but after enduring rush hour traffic in the hilly streets of SF yesterday, I noticed that I could replicate the grinding at a full stop with the clutch fully engaged which makes me think that maybe my clutch is going bad.
I'm a bit unsure since the car still pulls up the hills like a champ (maybe it could be pulling harder?) and need to point out tell tale signs to look for when your clutch is starting to fail and requires replacement.
If my problem is not due to clutch, what could it be? If it is, any good place in bay area to take the R? I plan to replace with stock set up.
Currently I have stock clutch w/ +73k miles. I did have an episode where a car transporter managed to make thick grey smoke pour from my clutch due to ineptitude so clutch failure would not surprise me.
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So I just replaced my clutch. I have a 2001 Gti vr6. It has roughly 120,000 miles and the clutch went out. I ordered a stage 1 clutch and put it in. Everything went smoothly and now I am stumped as to why I can't shift into first, third, and reverse? Second, Fourth, Fifth all work. Why this happened?
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The parking brake on my 99 honda civic won't fully disengage. If you use it when you go to put the lever down it pops back up slightly. Just barely one click and sometimes not even that. I just replaced the rear brake drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and it was badly needed. I thought that this would solve my parking brake problem as well, but after I got everything back together and the car on the road the problem persisted.
I saw in the Hayne's manual for the car the parking brake can be adjusted from underneath the armrest. So would an adjustment fix my problem? If loosened would the brake stay down when not in use and still work when I need it? I also saw as part of the procedure the manual has you put the rear end on jack stands. If you are just tightening or loosening a cable why would the back wheels need to be off the ground? Is this absolutely necessary?
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I just picked up another GTi and knew the transmission was iffy when I bought it. I had to deal with the serpentine belt tensioner which is now new and also a new waterpump since it was wobbling.
I've already drained and replaced whatever oil was in there with VW G60 Gear Oil which is what my Dealer here told me to put in and it shifts smoother now but still has the same issue. I also did the Shifter Cable adjustment to see if that was the problem but that only made it easier to shift but it still got stuck.
Basically what happens is when driving I shift into 3rd gear and when I go to shift out of 3rd it comes out of gear but it's like it hits a brick wall and will not go into the home position. I was hoping the adjustment and new oil would work but it hasn't done anything.
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This morning I opened my center console armrest to tuck the iPod cord back in, when I went to lower the armrest it only dropped about 1/5th the total amount it would need to close. I fooled with it for long enough to know If I continue to apply more pressure something is going to break. The movement it has is smooth until the point it abruptly stops. I checked the owners manual with no luck, called the dealer service center which came up empty handed as well.
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I've searched but can't find what my problem is , ON idle when clutch is not depressed loud ticking noise , but when I push the clutch in it goes away . Also the ticking noise will get louder if I accelerate . ONLY Im first gear will I hear a loud grinding noise which means I have to quickly switch into second . Sound similar to something being dragged along a fence . Again the grinding sound I'm first will only happen if I'm giving it gas. Car has 325,000 km . Something with the transmission ?
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