Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Getting Check Engine Code P0343 And P0321?
Mar 30, 2011
I just got a 2001 VW Jetta. I got it with the Check Engine light on. Went to my local AutoZone to get a OBDII reading, got codes P0343 & P0321. P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input B1. P0321 Ignition/Distributer Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance. So for P0343 I got the Camshaft Position Sensor for $70 and for P0321 got Crankshaft or Speed Position Sensor for $110 ( FYI, Crankshaft Position Sensor & Speed Sensor are the same ). Paid $160 to get both sensors replaced. I know both sensors are easy to replace but it was easier to pay..
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My wife drove the car to work, and it ran good. She got a check engine light, but it was not on when I got home from work. I started the car and it idled fine for a couple of minutes and then it stalled. I check the codes and there was nothing locked in. There was a pending coding P0321. I am not sure what a pending code is, but I assume not enough to trigger the check engine light.
After work each night this week I tried troubleshooting but I have not gotten anything accomplished. Each night the car would start fine but if I turned it off it would not start until many tries if at all. It turns over strong but won't start. I drove it around the neighborhood today and it stalled and wouldn't restart.
The fuel pump primes. When the car won't start the fuel pump relay clicks constantly. Is this normal? I replaced the fuel filter because it has been 50k miles. Is the crank shaft sensor the problem? I hate to throw money at parts that aren't the problem when I can't get a code to trip the check engine light.
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2001.5 1.8t, I have this p0343 code when I used the scan tool at murrays or oreileys whatever the h they are now (it means something like cam angle sensor high input). The t-belt was due for service a while ago , am I looking at a sensor problem or a wiring problem or a timing/engine problem? How should I check and where? I hear the timing belt can be a pain on the 1.8s, I have done a mk4 trans and a bit of other stuff but I do have a lot going on right at the moment and I'm not sure if I have time. I have a feeling if I take it in for service they will probably find blow through from the turbo and pull the engine because of "sludge".
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MK4 GTi - My check engine light came on a few days ago and when I checked it, it pulled code P0420.
Just this morning, the check engine light went away.
Is this a common issue? Or should I go get it checked just in case?
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I have a 2000 VW Jetta 2.0l AEG engine with 190,000 miles and check engine code P0303 for the 2nd time in 3 months. I had this same code 3 months and 3000 miles ago and found the spark plug #3 to be fouled up. All other plugs and wires seemed to be okay so I replaced plug #3 and the problem went away. I suppose after I take off the upper intake manifold I am going to find the same plug #3 to be fouled up again. The engine is a typical AEG that I have to add 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles as it has been burning the same amount of oil since I acquired the car at 135,000 miles. I have read that the wrong piston rings were installed from the factory on a large number of these engines and VW says that if less than 1 quart of oil is burned after 7500 miles it is normal. I really don't feel like spending 2 hours every 3000 miles to replace plug #3 ? It might be time to part ways with my 2nd VW. As a side note, this car has been averaging 35.5 mpg over the last 55,000 miles that includes 50% city/ 50% highway driving. I coast to red lights and don't accelerate quickly with the 5 speed manual transmission to achieve hybrid like fuel efficiency.
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Just installed a short Ram intake on my 2000 Vw Jetta 1.8t. Had the Intake for about 250 miles and now the check engine light came on. Just pulled the code p0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. Is this just cause there is more air going through the MAF sensor?
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I have a 2000 jetta 1.8t. Check engine light recently came on and the code is a PO1128. I replaced the maf sensor and that did nothing but make the car run worse. I've check for vacuum leaks and found a busted line at the egr valve, fixed the line, reset the code only to have the check engine light come back on with the same code. I am at a loss now.
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I've been having an issue with my car and the check engine light is on.
The code reads : P0030
Heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 1
heater control circuit
2001 VW GTI VR6 ....
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I have a 2005 1.8 TJetta GLI owned for about 2 months now. Gas cap warning pops up then goes away when I turn off the car then check engine light comes on. I've change the gas cap to new oem one changed the purge valve [URL] .... After a couple of weeks same issues again brought it to my mechanic he ran a leak detector and told me that there are Evap leaks. I read somewhere that I might need a need charcoal canister and a fuel tank.
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Bought a Mk4 1.8T gti last year had only about 75,000 on it and drove it for about 10,000 miles. The check engine light went on about 2 months ago and the code read 3rd gear incorrect ratio. It still rode fine until about a week ago when it started slipping. Brought it to the local transmission guys in my town and got a quote at about $3,000-$3,500 to have the transmission rebuilt. The transmission is a tiptronic automatic 6-speed.
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I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t. My check engine light came on and it gave me the code P0135 sensor heater circuit. Bank 1 Sensor 1. We bought a new 02 sensor and replaced it. We definitely bought the right one too. Cleared the codes. After a little driving the CEL came back on with the same code P0135. What is wrong and how I can fix this?
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So my gf's check engine light on her 01 Golf flashes once in a while, and it misfires. But the thing is, it doesn't stay on, and it's once in a while (like once or twice a week). She has new spark plugs, and new wires. I have a feeling it's the coil pack, but I really don't know if it needs to be replaced until the check engine light actually stays on.
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Just a few days ago I was driving and I noticed as I went over 35 mph my car would stutter and the check engine light would start flashing. And when I slowed back down the car drove fine. I'm wondering what the problem could be? Feels like the car is losing power. Car is currently at 119k miles.
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So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
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It was acting rough and was a little loud. Like a low deep loud, the engine light came on. I tried to start it, it would crank but no start.
Code came up P0340 (Cam sensor) So i replaced it, reseted and scanned again, now it says P0343 To much input sensor 1 bank 1. When i turn the key over to "ON" I don't hear the fuel pump, is this normal?
I don't understand what to do I am so lost, I am ready to do the timing. Is there something cutting my fuel pump out or is it done? Do i do the timing, or replace the pump ...
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VW Jetta SE 2.5L... Took my car to the dealer for a check engine light, the code came back P0106 which states I need my throttle valve cleaned and the dealer also said I need my brake vacuum pump replaced.. Do these go hand in hand? How should I proceed with the dealer? I have only 60,000 miles on my vehicle was there a recall on this issue? The dealer already updated the software in the technical bulletin.
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My car has ~102,000 miles, though I replaced the motor at 95,000.
Yesterday, I experienced these symptoms: My car just stalled in the parking lot going from R to D. Took me several tries to even get it to crank, double checking transmission in park, foot on brake, etc.
Then I had to crank on it a bunch of times to get it to light.
The BT-1 I have on me says I have a P0321 medium generic code. Googling that seems like it's related to a crank position sensor.
Runs OK for now, but I'd like to locate that sensor (is it G28?) to make sure the wires look OK. Happened again the next time I ran it, so taking it off the road for now as unreliable.
Is this the G28 crankshaft sensor location? I figure it's the plug hiding behind the angle bracket to the right of the oil filter in this photo.
I'm trying to figure out if this is within my abilities, or if I should farm it out. As I think about it, I'm guessing the sensor and related harness are not "new" with my motor, they transferred over from the old one.
Still looking for input if I have the right location for the sensor and any input on DIY.
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I recently bought elantra 2004 gls, with 107k mileage.
Few days ago the check engine light came on while I was driving it. The next day it went off. This happened today also. I didn't notice anything wrong with the car, no smell, tranny fluid is recent, oil change 2.5k ago.
The code was p0501, speed sensor.
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I keep getting the same code for the check engine light of P0128. I have replaced the thermostat twice and the ECT sensor already. I do know know what else I can do for getting this fixed. I have checked the fans and they are working correctly. I have also checked to make sure there is nothing wrong with the head gasket. My car does not over heat, but it does take forever for the temperature gauge to rise. This is for a 2006 Hyundai Elantra. What else I can do?
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I have a 2003 VW Jetta TDI and the check engine light has been staying on solid (not flashing) for a couple of months. I took it to my local dealer who tested the computer and said that it was the thermostat and a related sensor. That answer didn't seem to make sense, and unfortunately I didn?t get the code from the dealer at the time. I did though have the code read recently at another shop and it said: "Code P0674 which is #4 glow plug circuit - Q13 - electrical fault sporadic." What this means?
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I have 2001 Wolfsberg Edition 4D jetta (gas) with 180,000 miles, manual transmission. The engine light has been on for years and years. Usually what I do is take it in for an oil change just before a smog. They re-set the codes. I drive it to my office and back and the light would stay off and I could smog it. Until recently. In April, I took the car in for an oil change. And when I picked it up, it ran terribly. It was lurching like crazy. I had to keep slip the clutch to drive it until it warmed up and the it would mostly start running OK. I took it back to my mechanic and he thought it was a timing belt. I had already changed the timing belt at 119,000 miles.
It seemed odd to me that this procedure needed to be done again after 60,000 miles, but I went ahead and had it done. That did not fix the problem. Then the mechanic replaced the air mass meter. That didn't work. Then he replaced the coils. That didn't work. My mechanic has had the car for a month and can't seem to figure out what to do. He keeps getting different error codes - codes that don't seem to make sense to him. The car needs to a smog (my registration date is June), but he can't smog it because we can't get the check engine light to stay off long enough.
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