Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 GLS Won't Start - No Cranking


Aug 5, 2015

I have a 2001 Golf GLS that normally starts on a dime.

It's already had replaced:

New Starter - 11/2/12Ignition Coil / Plugs - 5/22/13Rebuilt Alternator - 5/9/14New Battery - July 2015

The other day, nothing happened when trying to start her, no cranking or anything. The lights work, battery is good.

Yesterday, I depressed the clutch all way to the floor and it started.

Not sure if it's related, but I'd like to trouble shoot before I take it to a shop who's going to want to replace everything.

Car has 154,445 miles. Not original owner, so don't know how they drove it. We got it with 150k

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I have a Mk4 GTI with the 24v vr6. Car wont start, just cranking for days. This all happened a week ago. I was at work, went on lunch at 12 and drove home to eat, come back at 1 and park it. 4 o clock I get off, try to start my car and nothing. Just cranking no turn over. Ive had no prior problems with this car, other than some misfires from 2 different coils, which I've replays 2 of them.

Car has absolutely no spark. Here's the parts I've regretted throwing at it because of this

-Coolant temp sensor
-Spark plugs
-Crankshaft sensor
-Fuel pump relay

I thought for sure it would of been the crankshaft sensor but I put it in and got nothing. I've checked all my fuses and they are all good. Finally got my code read with a vagcom last night and got these 2 codes

01177 no communication to ecu
01314 no communication to ecu

I also get no CEL when turning the key on "ON" which tells me ecu.

So I've kind of narrowed it down to 3 things, but it wouldn't surprise me if it was something else though. I think it's either the ECU, relay 428 for ecu, or wiring on the ecu. I swapped in a working BDF ecu and got nothing. I figured it would at least start and then cut off because of the immobiliser, but maybe im wrong. I know when my key imobiliser died it started and then cut off, maybe with a different ecu that's not married to the car is different and wont start, I am not sure. how this works.

So after the ecu swap didnt work I started reading wires. Going off the diagram here [URL] .....

I have found the following

a) pins 1/2 for ecu ground are OKAY read 12v
b) pin 21 read 12v
c) pin 3 would go to about .12 while cranking. idk what it is supposed to be
d) pin 23, which is ground to the relay 428, read .01, which is the same reading i got off the ground for the relay spot
e) pin 62 gave me nothing with the car off

So right now my concern is kind of on the relay 428. I don't know what it is supposed to read but that seems kind of off for .12v power while cranking and .01 ground. What should these readings be? should i be reading them while cranking?

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Cranking Strong But Will Not Start

I have a mk4 golf 1.8t that cranks but wont start. It was running fine for about a year. Then one day it will crank and not start. Since this issue has happened I have replaced the :

-fuel pump-

-fuel pump relay-

-coils-

-spark plugs-

-crank position sensor-

-fuses-

the car still cranks strong (with a jump bc its been about a month or so since its actually ran)

no fuses blown

fuel lines have pressure ( maybe have to bleed the lines ?)

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So i have a mk4 jetta vr6, just did my motor swap went smooth... The car starts runs, when i shut my motor off and go to start it again when it is warm/hot.... it doesnt want to start.. just keeps turning n turning.... I have been through a couple of threads people recommended to change the coolant temp sensor... been there done that yesterday.... n no results thus far... same problems... the car has been sitting for a year since i had done any work to it...

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I have a 2001 GTI 1.8T, and it's refusing to start. It turns over and all power accessories work, so I've ruled out that the battery is dead.From the bit of research I've done, I wonder if it's a fuel issue or something to do with the coil packs.The only thing to be mentioned is that about 3 days before this occurred, I left the headlights on while I was away from the car. A quick boost and that problem was solved. I wonder if this could be related at all.

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2000 1.8t 5 speed Jetta ... The car has run fine up until recently when I started having some starting issues. It was intermittent, and got more frequent and longer. The car will crank but not fire. In the beginning, I could crank it for a few seconds, turn off and turn back on and then it would fire like nothing happen. This continued to happen and progressively get worse until I could not get it started, I could smell fuel which lead me to assume I had to spark.

Today I went out to swap crank sensors but only tried for a little while and cant really get my hand up there. So, I disconnected the battery for a while, went back and connected it, and it started. Up until this point I have had the same 2 codes, over/under boost, but the car has always ran with them present. I scanned today and got a p1545 Throttle position sensor code...But only got that one time. Ive been messing around with disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and among one of these times, the EPC light came on and would not rev passed 1k rpm. turned it off, turned it on, and it was fine after that.

Im sure I have a sensor about to let go Im just not too sure which one it is. I dont have vcds and am not getting a low signal code from the crank sensor with the scanner I have.

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When I try to turn on the car it cranks and seems like it is about to start but just keeps cranking. I have put dry gas, shoot starter fluid up the air filter and tried jumping it. I have managed to get it started but dies a second later. Not sure what to do, someone told me that it might be the fuel filter.

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Won't Start When Turn The Key

My 2001 Jetta GLS V6 automatic won't start. Turn the key, lights come on bright, nothing happens. No sound other than a single click. Problem started tonight while running errands. Made many trips today without problem. Last stop at the grocery store, no start.

89,000 miles. Only problem of late is the trunk latch mechanism broke. Have been using the key to manually open. Could I have messed up the key fob? Going to try alternate keys when I can get back to the car in the morning.

More info: our mechanic managed to start the car today, playing around with the gear shift. Got the car home and into the garage, but now won't start again. He thinks it might be a problem inside the console, with the gear shifter. ?? Doesn't know if he will be able to fix it or if he will have to send us to the dealership, which I would like to avoid.

I tried both of the key fobs and the valet key. Checked the fuses on the side of the dashboard. When key is turned all the way to the start position, 3 lights remain on the dashboard: EPC, Check Engine, and Battery.

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My Jetta makes a clicking/clanking noise when I turn my steering wheel from standstill. I was told it was my CV joints. So I replaced them and its still making the noise. I was told then it was my struts/shocks. Is this true? The sound is coming from the front driver side wheel. Also, when looking at this tire. I noticed that while this one does have some wear it is even throughout the tire. However, this tire has more wear than the others. The others look brand new.

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I have Golf MK4 variant 1.6 77kw BCB 2005y

When i crank engine i hear it fire immediately for a fraction of a second, then it carries cranking empty few turns and then fires again.

Happens only on a first start after standing still few hours.

[URL] ....

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Ok so I disconnected the fuel line and the fuel pumps when I turn the key to on and when I crank it it's not pumping gas ..

Changed the relay
Changed the crank pos sensor

I'm at a loss what would cause the fuel pump not pump when cranking?

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I have a 2001 GTI VR6 5 speed. It has an intermittent no start. When you turn the key on it will start as long as the EPC light was lit before cranking. If that light does not come on, it will not start. I also can't communicate with the ECU via the OBD2 connector if the EPC light does not come on. So I am assuming that the ECU/ECM is not getting power when this condition occurs. Is there an ECU relay that is possibly out? If so, what is its location?

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Monday get CEL with codes p0722 and p0322. Car is in limp mode during these codes. Yesterday I change g68 sensor. Cleared codes, rough start but was sitting most of the week. Drove around fine, no limp mode, shifted fine. Started up a few times immediately after. Hours go by I go to leave and it won't turn over though it sounds its wants to. No clue why this is happening or what changing the sensor could have done. This is a 01 GLS 2.0 auto. Not sure where to from here especially since it drove so well afterwards.

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After I changed the glow plugs it didn't miss at all for a couple weeks (the outside weather has been getting warmer too). Then it started missing on and off, and now wont start at all.

Here is a video - the sound it makes during the second attempt (clicks then winds) has been common since not long after changing the starter. [URL] ..... The car is being boosted during the video.

Some extra information: about a month ago I notice the coolant was a little low (added less than a cup of G12), a few years back the car, had some half diesel and half gas ran through it. The car has 350,000 kms..

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Just got this car it's 2001 gti turbo. The guy said that the key fob was back. But I changed the starter and still no luck. It had all new plugs and I went to check for spark and there was no spark or fuel. So then I got a new crankshaft sensor and still no luck. I haven't gotten the chance to check for spark yet. And now those lights and beeping keep happening even without the key In the ignition. Can it be the ignition switch or something worse?

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[URL] ....

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When the weather gets cold, (lower than 45 deg. F) my Jetta does not want to stay running. It turns over and starts just fine but it does not like to stay on. When I turn the key to the #2 position I can hear the fuel pump fire up and pressurize the system. I always attempt to start it after that, and after 1-2 seconds of running, it seems like it chokes itself out. I have the new coolant temp. sensor (green top), my MAF has been replaced, all spark plugs are new with the correct gap (approx. .030"), new air filter, I run 93 octane fuel.

The worst part is, once the car is warmed up (After forcing it fuel and starting it over, and over, and over again) it runs awesome! I have had this problem since I bought the car (about 2 years ago). The owner told me about it and mentioned that he has never been able to figure it out either (trips to the dealer included). I have been dealing with it for 2 years, but it is getting much worse. Over the past 2 days I have not been able to get my car to stay on long enough to get it to move.

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Last winter when this happened my check engine light came on and so I took it to the dealership and they said it was the crank position sensor that needed replaced. For whatever reason I didn't get it fixed and have been driving my car with no problems whatsoever for 10 months or so, until this weekend when my no start issues started again. The check engine light is on again and it's the same code for the crank position sensor.

I believe I will definitely get the crank sensor fixed this time, but could the issue possibly be anything else? Bad starter? Ignition switch? My mechanic can't give me a definite answer because every time I take it to the shop it starts up just fine for him.

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Replaced battery and alternator at my regular mechanic, all ground wires look great and couldn't find any shorts. There is a 11 Amp draw from my battery, took it to a shop that specializes in VW/Audi and they hooked it up to Vagcom and it showed absolutely nothing wrong. He left the meter hooked up and pulled every single fuse in the car and there was only like a 0.01 drop, nothing significant. When he went to take my car out of the shop, wouldn't start. So he put a battery pack on it, still wouldn't start. Took off both terminals on the battery, put them back on, put on the battery pack, and car started.

The aftermarket deck in it is just a JVC single din, doesn't seem to have any issues.

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