Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 GLS AC Not Blowing Cold Air
Aug 4, 2014
'01 Jetta IV GLS AC not blowing cold air:
1. Blower works on all 1,2,3,4 settings
2. Cabin Air Filter Clean
3. When AC button pressed, I see the Compressor turns and noted the clutch also engaged.
4. AC Fan near Radiator comes on
5. Blend Door seems to be working fine - fixed the problem of spitting foam without opening up the heater box.
6. Since the above electrical parts seem to be working, I suppose it could not be a relay issue.
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My ac stopped blowing cold. The compressor turns on when I turn the ac on. When I pressure tested the low line port, it showed it was too high to add any recharge. 2001 jetta wolfsburg 1.8t....
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I have a 2000 Jetta that doesn't blow cold AC. Here are the details:
- When the AC is turned on, air does blow through the vents. Each setting (1-4) does blow harder than the previous.
- Both front fans spin and are working
- The AC compressor clutch never engages
- All fuses (two inside the car and the one above the battery) have been replaced and test good.
- When the AC is on full blast, the voltage coming from the AC compressor wire shows ~9.3V for about 5 seconds, then jumps up to about ~11V for less than a second, this repeats over and over and the clutch never engages.
What the next logical troubleshooting step would be? I've read about this possibly being the fan control module (maybe) and also read about testing the AC compressor using an external 12V power supply, but am not sure where to go from here.
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I have a mk4 gli and the a/c is not blowing cold, or remotely cool. When I turn on the a/c the engine drops rpm's like it is engaging, or whatever, but doesn't get cold. I checked under the hook and it sounds like something is trying to come on every 10 seconds or so...it's like the engine jumps or something. The fan on the passenger side is coming on if that means anything but the driver side doesn't when a/c is turned on.
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having the issue where there aircon refuses to work even if the system is gassed up and leak free, and the compressor seems to be functional but not powering up. Before spending loads of cash on controller units, swtiches etc, your problem might be a dodgy connector under the battery tray.
As I have bought another Golf that appeared to have this issue, I took some photos this evening while I fixed it, hopefully this will be of use to people?
To start with, I had a look at my old Golf, which I knew had already been repaired. under the battery tray I found the repair. I put new tape on as the old tape was showing its age, so it shows up quite nicely - it's the blue tape!:
and a bit of a close up:
So now I knew what I was looking for, I had a look at my new Golf:
Which, I cut out, soldered the ends together, heat-shrink wrapped, then covered with some more trusty blue tape and zip tied it all up to try to minimise further chafing (the blue tape on the left is another part of the loom that looked like it needed a bit of tidying up):
A drive around this evening shows the aircon is now blowing a lot colder than before (previously it was blowing hot air after 5 minutes). I'll be testing it properly on a hot day, but I'm 90% certain I've nailed it.
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I am trying to narrow down what could be the issue to my 2002 vw Jetta VR6 air conditioning. It is blowing air but the air is not cold. If I need to add refrigerant, where I can find the low pressure valve so I can do this on my own with one of those store bought cans.
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No AC... Its not the fuse box on top of the battery, I recently already changed that. The air coming out is not cold at all, so I checked the pressure, and it was even higher then it was supposed to. After letting some pressure out, still no cold air. What could the issue be? Should I maybe bleed the system?
Also, its a 2001 GLX so I have climatronic....
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The AC on my car (2002 Jetta 1.8t) quit blowing cold. Did some troubleshooting and...
1. Checked Freon- level was ok
2. Noticed cooling fans were not coming on with AC button pressed and ignition on. Fans also not coming on when car up to temperature, but gauge never went above normal. Seems strange considering I live in Houston and it was 95+ out.
3. tested fans with direct power and both high and low are fine.
4. jumped terminals 1,2 and 2,3 on plug for cooling fan switch and fans turn on high and low...so thought must be bad cooling fan switch.
5. Replaced cooling fan switch and still no fans or ac when AC button is pressed and ignition on.
6. replaced Fan control module. Still no fans.
7. Checked Freon once more...and although it was in the ok range decided to add a little more. (was in the middle of ok range, and a cheap gauge)
8. Compressor kicks on, along with cooling fan. End up using the 1 can I had and now have cold air and fans that come on when hitting the AC button with ignition set to on position.
I thought the mkiv cars would always turn on the fans when AC button is pressed with ignition on? Or does the compressor also need to be charged?
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So my alternator went bad last week so I replaced it. Tested it yesterday and it was charging fine and drove it to work. I got the esp light on after driving 10 miles everytime I start it. So I go start it and it turns over slow but starts. Before I got to a friends house I was getting on it from a stop pretty hard and noticed the ac stopped blowing cold air. I go to leave a few hours later and it barely turns over and died shortly after moving. Took a while to jump it and the battery light blinked the whole way home. THEN, I go inside and hear something about 5 minutes later and my stereo is on! Also ABS light is on. Could a dead battery do all this?
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When the weather gets cold, (lower than 45 deg. F) my Jetta does not want to stay running. It turns over and starts just fine but it does not like to stay on. When I turn the key to the #2 position I can hear the fuel pump fire up and pressurize the system. I always attempt to start it after that, and after 1-2 seconds of running, it seems like it chokes itself out. I have the new coolant temp. sensor (green top), my MAF has been replaced, all spark plugs are new with the correct gap (approx. .030"), new air filter, I run 93 octane fuel.
The worst part is, once the car is warmed up (After forcing it fuel and starting it over, and over, and over again) it runs awesome! I have had this problem since I bought the car (about 2 years ago). The owner told me about it and mentioned that he has never been able to figure it out either (trips to the dealer included). I have been dealing with it for 2 years, but it is getting much worse. Over the past 2 days I have not been able to get my car to stay on long enough to get it to move.
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I have a 01 Jeep and the AC is not blowing cold air. When I went to get my oil changed they did a check over and said that it is in working order just lacks any freon to get it cold. So I went to get a bottle to do it myself. Doing what it said to do on the bottle I got nothing. The meter says that there is pressure in the system, but no cold air coming out. I noticed that it would engage and then stop after a second, but still will not fully engage or blow cold air.
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I have this weird problem where my cars blows air at all speeds but the AC and heater doesn't work, what it could be? Maybe blower motor relay?
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I currently own a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with 135,000K miles on it, and have had continual problems with the A/C not blowing cold over the last year or so.
A year ago, took it to what I thought was a reputable mechanic (not a dealer) who diagnosed the problem as a "bad" master circuit board. Thing ran fine for about 6 months, then started to intermittently blow warm air, until it finally quit blowing cold.
Finally broke down and took it to the dealer hoping they would be able to fix the problem. They charged me $110 and told me the refrigerant was low so they topped it off. 6 weeks later, once again not blowing cold, took it back. They said this time they found a "leak" in the refrigerant hose, replaced the hose, topped off the refrigerant, and sent me on my way (free of charge, of course, since they should have fixed it the first time).
Well...6 weeks later and once again, not blowing cold, so back to the dealer I go. Once again, they said the hose was "leaking" and they did the dye test (shouldn't they have done this the first time?) and replaced the hose, and the refrigerant. Good for another 6 weeks, then once again, not blowing cold.
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04 Elantra GLS, AC works great and is icy cold at higher RPMs but gets hot when stopped at idle or driving low speed. Fan works, refrigerant level is correct. At low idle speeds the compressor just shuts off. A few minutes later or if the engine speed picks up it will engage and start cooling again. AC tech didn't think it was the compressor since the pressure difference between the high and low sides was in the correct range. Has this issue fixed by replacing the pressure sensor/switch on the high pressure side? It doesn't look like there is a low pressure side sensor that I can see.
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I have a 2001 Ford Taurus I bourg a month ago. The dealer I bought it from replaced the air compressor on June 29. Today I had been in my car for a couple of minutes and was stopped at a stop light when my car idle increased and all of a sudden I heard a high pitched screeching sound. The a/c immediately quit blowing cold air. I turned the a/c immediately to vent and continued to drive home. After raising the good once I got home, I could see a bunch of what looked like rubber and oil shavings down under the compressor. What may have happened?
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I'm having trouble with my saab wagon blowing hot and cold at the same time. It generally occurs when the outside temp is within 10 degrees of the temp setting on the car. Now during the summer the drivers side will blow cold and the passenger side hot. I'm thinking it may be the solar sensor on the dash. Driving in this condition is not only uncomfortable but also highly embarrassing when I have a passenger.
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2001 Ford Windstar rear auxiliary unit will not blow hot or cold air. The front system works fine with very cold or very hot air as needed.The system has been in this state for the past four years.Last month I had a local shop evacuate the refrigerant and then I replaced the following A/C components (compressor, front orifice tube, rear expansion valve, receiver dryer, and condenser). The shop then recharged the system and the front blows ice cold air...amazing! Unfortunately the rear system just doesn't want to blow any air, hot or cold. To date I have completed the following checks:
Relays
- Front cabin relays #3 and #6 were swapped with no change to front system.
- Rear unit relays make a clicking sound when either front or rear control panels set blower motor speed.
-- I swapped out with front and rear cabin blower motor relays with no change to front blower motor.
Engine Compartment - Both 40A fuses were checked (117 & 120).They are supposed to be 40A fuses but my box had 50A in both places.It had been like this for years with both systems working fine up until the rear unit ceased working.(NOTE: maybe this is coincidence but when I changed these from 50A to 40A my son noticed that some of the rear tail lights stopped working. in fact all of them associated with fuse #7 located in the passenger cabin.)
Fuses - all related fuses were checked and are fine.As noted above the distribution box fuses were changed from 50A to 40A with no detrimental effect on the front system working.
Front Control Panel
- Heat and air work fine (blower and temp controls)
- Front control panel appears to change rear unit temperature setting but only one of blend door actuators adjust when changing temperature setting
-- The one closest to the blower motor does not function.The one that directs air to floor or ceiling functions properly.
-- Shouldn't they move together based on the temp setting?
- Front control panel blower motor settings only result in hearing a clicking noise for each setting.
- Setting front control panel to REAR CTRL allows rear control panel to function.
Rear Control Panel
- Temperature settings - same result as front control panel with blend door actuators.
- Blower motor settings - same result as front control panel.
Rear Auxiliary Unit
- Expansion valve makes a hissing sound on A/C or Defrost settings.
- Blower motor was removed and benched tested for operation.
-- Electrical connection looks fine and seats snug.
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It's my 2005, 2.7l. auto trans, FWD.
AC stops blowing cold when the engine temp get hot. As long as the car is moving, it blows nice and cold. Also, when sitting the engine temp rises quickly and will over heat if you don't get moving.
Cooler fan on the inside of the radiator never kicks over to high mode as the temp goes up. I checked the fuses and the relay and both are good.
That leaves me with a bad fan? Correct? Also, what is the part number of the fan?
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It was blowing cold and stopped. Minutes later it started again and then stopped. This went on for a week and then stopped altogether. Car has 190,000 miles. Is it compressor, clutch or relay....
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I'm having a problem with my 2003 Elantra. Occasionally it hesitates (acts like it is going to run out of gas). When it does this the a/c stops blowing cold. Lasts for 3-4 minutes. Most recent time it had 1/2 tank of gas. I also have a problem putting gas in. I have to fill it very slowly or the gas pump will keep clicking off. I don't know if they are related or not. What fuel problem will affect the a/c?
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Today I got in the car and turned on the ac, got no air blowing. Turned the ac off and the heat up, still nothing. I assume the blower is shot or maybe the fuse? I could hear the vents switching from top to bottom as I changed it but no air coming out. Where would the fuse be? What to check? Engine cooling fans replaced last year and working.
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