Currently own a 2001 vw golf gls 2.0 with 223000 kms on it. used specifically as a beater car. Noticed that it has all of a sudden started to make a creaking sound when it has run for a long period of time. Stops when you hit a speed of around 50 kms/hr.
View 1 RepliesThe problem I'm having with this vehicle is that, it will start up just fine most of the time if I just hop in my after and haven't drove it for a while, however after I drive lets say 20 min+ and then decide to turn the car off and go back to turn it on, it just wont, it will turn over and its getting power but it won't follow through to start the engine, took it to a place by my house for 3 days and they said its probably the fuel filter but they couldn't give me a straight answer, what it most likely is? Its a 2001 Ford Taurus...
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 Grand Cherokee with 225,000 miles (hooyah!) on an I-6 . After driving for long distances (at least an hour on the road) then idling for extended periods of time, it seems it starts misfiring. RPMs drop to about 500 and will not rev past 1200 without dying completely.
This has happened a few times in the following scenario:We have 3 kids and often visit family out of state. We'll drive for several hours before pulling off at a rest area. To minimize the amount of time spent off the road and to save the hassle of unloading/loading all the kids, we'll leave the car running (to keep heat/cool air in) and either myself or my wife will run in to use the restroom and get snacks. The vehicle may idle for 10 minutes before the issue presents itself. It seems that if we turn the vehicle off and rest for a few (3-5) minutes, the problem will resolve itself and we can be on our way with no more issues.
Check Engine light is on but only throws a code for an EVAP leak. I don't know a whole lot about cars. I thought it could be time to replace spark plugs but this issue doesn't happen often and it seems only in these specific circumstances.
Having issue with E-Brake when car has been park for a long time. Mine makes noise every time I leave my car park for a long time, like as if the brakes are stuck on the rotor. It would make a noise as if my rotors were rusty, and would diminish after the car has been driven around town for quite some time, but does not completely go away.
View 12 RepliesMy car has been throwing an ABS code for a long time now and I've finally decided to actually deal with it.
The code is: 00285 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Right (G45): Electrical Fault in Circuit
After reading that this could be due to a bad sensor, I replaced the front right sensor, but I am still getting the exact same code. I used measuring blocks in VCDS-Lite to check out what was going on with the wheel speeds and found that at speeds less than 20 km/h, the front right sensor reads 0 km/h, while all the others continue to read the proper speed.
i started hearing this weird creaking noise about a month ago. When it started happening it would only occur at very low speeds and then it would stop, now it happens all the time unless i'm turning. I've heard it could be bushings but I'm not sure. What weirds me out is a lot of the time it'll stop either when I'm turning or if I shift into neutral.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS. This past month, the A/C tends to stop cooling for a period of time. I took it to one shop and they recycled the freon, but the problem continued. I took it to another shop and they also recycled the freon. It is worse when the outside temperature is over 95 degrees. Additionally, the second shop hooked it up to a computer and said the computer is telling them that the car is getting hot and shutting down the compressor, but the air conditioning system is fine. The car is not overheating. They proposed changing the thermostat for a huge price so I declined.
I've read online that it is possible that this could be caused by a thermister or a low pressure sensor and am considering taking the car to an auto electric shop for diagnosis. What else this could be? The radiator was replace a few months ago.
While driving, the drive side door makes a creaking/clunking/rattle/popping noise. Its so damn annoying. It's all the time, if you roll the window down it doesn't do it as loud, but its cold out..
View 24 RepliesMy stereo fuse had blown off and while trying to find it, i removed all the fuses one by one to see which one was blown. I found the fuse, changed it, stereo was back to life. Only problem is that right before removing the fuses the car was driving normal. After checking the fuses the car seems to take longer to start; starter keeps turning for twice the time it did before. Also it seems as if the turbo is not even there. Btw the car is a golf mk4 tdi 150 bhp 2001 model
View 4 RepliesHow to diagnose this creaking/clunking noise in my 03 Jetta TDI. It's only coming from the passenger side, and I primarily notice it at low speed on relatively uneven roads. I can replicate the noise by pushing up and down on the front passenger side corner.
For context, this started after I just recently replaced my front and rear suspension, plus some steering parts. I replace all four struts with Koni yellows, front CA bushings (with R32/TT), ball joints, tie rod ends, front strut bushings and bearings, and passenger side CV axle. In response to the noise, I also just did the front sway bar bushings, which definitely needed it, but didn't change the noise. I also removed the CV axle and re-greased the inner CV joint--to no avail.
Also, when I have the hood open and push up and down on the front of the car, I can see the cup where the top strut nut goes into will go up and down separate and apart from the body. The driver's side stays in line with the body when I try to the same on that side. Also, that cup is tight on the passenger side, whereas it will spin fairly freely on the drivers side. So, this has lead me to think that perhaps I didn't torque either or both of the top or inner strut nuts on the passenger side.
Here's a (fairly crappy) video of the noise/strut cup .....
Got a 03 GTI VR6 and my drivers door kept on making this creaking/popping noise(it is very similar to the creaking noise of a old wooden door or the sound you hear in horror movies but for a lot shorter duration). The sound seems to come up when I accelerate, break take off from a complete stop. I took the car into the dealership and they torqed some bolt on the hinge and the creaking went away. Not a month later the passenger door develops the same creaking. The dealer tries to torqe the bolt on the hinge again and they say it cant be done and that their body shop needs to replace the hinge. They paint a hinge for me and put it on but don't get the door adjustments right so I get a lot of wind noise. Finally they adjust the door right and all is well.
A while later the drivers door starts creaking again! I went to another dealership and did an oil change while I was away on a trip to Toronto and the service technician said he could lubricate the door gasket and that this will take the creaking away. So he did. Now granted that has taken the creaking away but after some rain and 2 car washes the creaking came back in full swing.
I call the dealership to set up an appointment and they refuse to look at the door saying that as far as they are concerned the vehicle is up to manufacturers specs and that they will need to get a VW rep to look at it. In the mean time I call the vw customer care which tells me that they contacted the dealer and that the dealer beleves that the car is up to manufacturers specifications and that the noise I am hearing is normal and that all the cars have this noise.
Now I owned an 02 Golf GL 2dr and never heard that sound. It's been a month and a half and neither the dealer or vw customer care have called to inform me when the VW area rep. will be coming to have a look at the issue. It looks like I hit a dead end with having my issue acknowledged and looked at. Is this really a standard noise on the mk4 2dr platforms ? How I should pursue this issue ?!? Anything ?!
I've noticed that potentially my heat shield or whatever guard that is 1 step toward the front of the car from where the inlet pipe connects to the exhaust system may be the reason for my rattle at 2k and 3k rpms. i think its a heat shield but I am not sure. the thing is it seems properly mounted, nothing is cracked/broken/or loose. But when I do try and wiggle it it does make a slight creaking noise that sounds similar to the rattle I get. So I could foresee this as being my issue.
But, is there anyway to fix this rattle w/out just taking off the part? i figure its there for a reason and it looks like its held on in 2 places. But they're not nuts they almost look like spot welds or something. 1 on each side. What to do?
Something to get you all in here:
I think I'm going to buy a late 99 CCLB six speed manual truck that's probably been sitting all of a year, maybe longer. Prior to being parked the truck ran flawless. 6 months after parking it he decided to sell it and when driving it, it has a miss when its cold and blows a little white smoke when accelerating. Appears to clear off and run normal after its warm. So he decided to investigate it and re-o-ringed the injectors and checked other things out.
He's determined he thinks it has a weak hpop. Not sure I'm sold on this. Fast forward six months and now I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy it. Drove it yesterday and same thing, first 4 or 5 miles kinda studders or misses but after that runs smooth and has no issue. No longer blows white smoke at all or anything. Obviously the fuel is old as hell, other than that what is everyone's thoughts?
Issue with my 2001 gti. When i put it into 1st gear its makes a weird noise and even when i drive in first but once i go to second it goes away and in all the other gears it dosnt make the noise. I think its the throw out bearing.
View 8 Replies So for the past few months my car was making a strange noise under my car, it turned out it was the dogbone bolt that stretches to the bottom part of the transmission. Some how it got loose and was literally hitting my transmission. So we tried bolting it back on and won't screw which was kind of scary it had some type of play. Do I have to get a new 02m for a little ass bolt, do I weld it, or is there a subframe piece I can buy to replace the Broken part of the transmission.
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I have a 2003 1.8t jetta. I got it in the fall and never really needed to turn on my AC until this week. It works, fans work at all speeds, blows ice cold air.
But i noticed today that my fans can be on and nothing. But when I hit the AC button there's a loud rattling sound. Everything works. It's just making noise when the AC is on. Whenever I turn it off the noise goes away.
I tried looking it up and couldn't find anything.
Radiator fans making tons of noise on my newly purchased gli jetta...
View 3 Replies2001 VW Jetta 1.8t automatic.
Transmission has a hard time going into 1st and reverse. Also some times hits hard going into third. I have a CEL for a vehicle speed sensor? Was wondering if it's not the VSS but maybe one of the other tranny sensors?
Separate question. Same car has a rough idle issue. Occasionally stalls but intermittently runs normal always has a low idle around 600 rpm. I have a code for an injector on cylinder three.
VSS code : P0725 - engine speed sensor circuit malfunction
Injector code : P0203 - injector circuit open cyl 3
My friend's Jetta was running fine. One day about to drive out of the driveway it started doing 2 things:
1. Felt like it lost power braking, just stopping by manual effort by pushing down pedal hard.
2. Engine stalling unless you keep the gas pedal depressed and holding the engine to about 3,000.
Car currently sidelined until this is fixed... Having the brakes go like that at the same time is strange so where to start. Brake fluid level is fine.
Mine is toyota corolla - 2001 VE model. It has 116K miles in it.
It hesitates nowadays to pickup after a long idle time, say in morning when i start to work or when i leave from work to home(idle time of 8 to 10 hrs). I noticed this problem only during very high temp, say atleast 80F.
Hesitation will be there for 4 or 5 secs and will not move even if i give full acceleration, but after that it moves normally.
Car has automatic transmission and i only see this i put it to Drive(D or D2) and not when i do reverse.
I have a 2001 Ford Escape XLT V6 4X4. About 3 months ago I started to experience rough idle in the morning. It went a away for a month or so, but it is back now. I noticed that it occurs primarily after the vehicle has sat for long periods of time. More than 10 hours, give or take, and it happens, less than 10 and it generally doesn't. When the issue does occur it sometimes almost stalls. I can tell the computer attempts to make up for it usually. The check engine light came on originally but hasn't since, a mechanic could not pull any code and could not reproduce. The issue disappears within 3 to 5 minutes usually after everything seems to warm up. I'm had regular maintenance and I am an 75k. I've even tried using gas additives and tried a high grade of gasoline to no avail.
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