Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Engine Overheating - Coolant Temp Sensor Replacement
Jul 12, 2014
My temperature has been randomly dropping, them back to middle, and recently my engine was overheating because I'm guessing the fans didn't turn on, because I'm also guessing, the engine didn't know it was overheating?
Anywho, during my replacement, I made sure to get rid of the pressure, and the car was cold. I tightened the cap again, but when I took the sensor out, all the coolant spewed out.
Now if I understand this correctly, do I have a leak? I figured the leak I had was coming from the temp sensor as it is.
Here's some pictures for those who'd like to see ....
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I recently got the solid check engine light for my 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GLS. I used a bluetooth OBDII dongle and Torque Pro to pull the code P0118. This seems to coincide with my symptoms:
Car idle at start in park stays around 1100RPM then in reverse it drops to 1000RPM then back into park and it stays around 900RPM and keeps that at idle.
If I start the car then immediately reverse out of my driveway then the car has a very rough idle but if I wait around 5 seconds in park idle then reverse out of my driveway it is smooth.
My car dash thermometer stays pretty close to the bottom low then after about 4-5 minutes it shoots up to 190F and stays. Gas mileage is also very poor.
I looked up a tutorial which shows the parts needed and how to replace the sensor : [URL] .....
I removed the engine cover and believe I found the coolant temp sensor in the spot the tutorial shows. My question is if there is anything I should be aware of before attempting to replace this sensor that this tutorial doesn't cover? I took a screenshot of what I believe is the coolant temp sensor.
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So my check engine light came on in my 04 jetta sw, and when I had the car read, it gave me a code that tracked down to be a bad coolant temp sensor. I bought the replacement part from my local VW dealership, installed it and the check engine light went away. Now about 2 weeks late it came back on, and I am getting a reading of "Coolant temp sensor high voltage". So it goes from needing replaced, then the replacement is running high voltage?
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I just replaced my CTS, and I noticed that there is a small section of exposed harness wiring between the end of the loom and the CTS connector. I can't tell if it came loose when I swapped the sensor, or if it was this way for awhile, but all of the other harness connections around this area are completely covered and the loom end doesn't seem to clip into the connector or anything. If I were to try and seal it, I would need to use tape.
How hot does this area get? It seems like there shouldn't be exposed wiring here.
Picture taken with the new sensor: [URL] ...
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Ok so I recently started noticing my car was overheating and the sensor would go off saying coolant temp hot. So I started by adding coolant that didn't work. I than replaced the thermostat didn't change. I saw the water pump was leaking and changed that but before I did I was driving it home one night and the engine stopped and I barely had control of the car. Now the water pump is new and I don't know what the problem is. I think it's the head gasket ???
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So to start off, its 10 degrees here with a -7 degree windchill. With that in mind, I was driving home just now from dropping off a friend, and noticed my engine temp was slightly about 190. Didn't think much of it, but within a mile down the road the temp was crossing the final line before the red 260 degree line. I pulled over and let it get down to 190 (luckily didn't take long) but in the next 3 miles home it rose again, then fell, and then rose again as I drove through my neighborhood. I'm thinking maybe the thermostat is going bad...? There's no way it went from normal operating temp to almost overheating as cold as it is....
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2001 jetta 2.0 VW guys a while back I was pulling a code saying that the air temp sensor circuit was low I believe it was P0112 so I replaced the maf with a bwd maf. Said it was for the car. Was fine for a day but now it has a P0102 code and the epc stays on (rough idle) what could be wrong ? Is it because the car hasn't learned the new sensor yet because I've only drove 10km or do I have a faulty sensor. BTW replacing the maf fixed the P0112 code
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I drive a 2001 Jetta with the 2.8 v6 with ~125k miles
So for a while my car was giving me a false read on my temperature so I replaced the sensor. I actually followed instructions from a thread on this site. [URL] ....
Now when I go to drive my car, it runs sluggish and misfires if I really give it some gas. CEL is on(however does not return a code when hooked to a computer), and flashes when gassed hard.
I've checked to make sure spark plug wires were reconnected correctly and securely. No leaking has occurred from the temp sensor. shift rod drive unit is reconnected correctly.
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My CEL is on for P0116 Engine Coolant temp circuit, range or performance problem. I replaced the CTS, thermostat, and did a complete coolant flush/replacement last November. Car worked well over the winter no issues. Last week when the CEL came on it gave me P0301 and P0440 as well. I did a reset and the lights stayed off for the week. Then P0116 came back. Is it possible that the CTS is bad again? I measured the resistance on the CTS and hot it is about 300 ohms and cold is 2.45k ohms.
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Engine will overheat unless I turn the AC on. The engine fan only operates with the ac on it seems.
Will not overheat unless in traffic for a while.
Would it be radiator thermo switch or the Fan Control Module?
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Okay so recently I was driving my 2000 Jetta and the coolant temp light came flashing on, when I went to check the coolant I was surprised to discover that it was like a mud brown color, almost looks like peanut butter. From everything I have read this can be from a few things, either rust build up that is gunking everything up and oil getting into the coolant somehow. I'm pretty sure its rust build up but I was wondering what everyone thinks about this, I was also not using G12 coolant which I'm told now is the premier brand for VW's.
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Threw a coolant temp sensor code yesterday morning:
16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Signal too high
p0118 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON
Does throwing that code once mean I need to replace the CTS immediately or am I safe to clear the code and see if it returns? No code today after a 40 minute drive.
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So I got a 98 GMC sierra and the ect sensor that is on it only had one wire running to it. Obviously the previous owner tried to make something work. I bought a new ect sensor and pigtail to rewire it but can't find the ground wire anywhere. Looking for a wiring diagram?
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I am trying to troubleshoot an overheating problem so that I may fix it myself. Not sure if it's thermostat, sensor, or a blockage.
'04 Jetta tdi with about 200k miles. Temp sticks at 190 usually for about ten minutes then starts to climb, varying between the 207-225F mark. Hasn't gone any higher, even in high 90sF ambient temps after 30mins driving. Holds fluid fine, pink G12 mix, and no bubbles or milky appearance to oil dipstick. Recently installed new AC compressor, txv and dryer so I imagine I can tackle thermostat or sensor if need be. Where to start?
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I drove my 99.5 7.3 F-350 1 mile to a friends and hooked it to the OBDII to get a code for my abs light.it had not been drove all day. we hooked into the pcm and he noticed the temp at 375* it was idling. is this right he didnt think it should have been that high???Will the engine coolant temp sensor, if it were bad,show a high temp of 375*? On the OBDII it showed a temp of 375* .....
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Mk4 Jetta Gli 1.8t , car was over heating only when sitting 5+ minutes at idle, mechanic said the big fan needed replaced so he replaced it. Car still over heated so i replaced the coolant with G13. It hasn't over heated yet but got in the car this morning and the coolant light started flashing and car was telling me to STOP the car. Checked out the coolant and it was on the low side. What it may be? Leak somewhere? Bad thermostat or water pump gone bad? Timing belt and water pump were done when i bought the car when it had less than 50k miles, car now has 99k miles on it.
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I dont see anything attached to the manifold....
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I got a mk4 where the temp gauge starts to climb to 3/4 instead of halfway when I'm idling for a while.
1. fans don't come on
2. if I turn on ac, fan come on and temp stays at 1/2
I tested low and high speed on fans. both operational. Is it the fan control module, temp sensor green top, or radiator s/w?
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I have a 2003 Passat 1.8t(B5.5) and I need to change my engine coolant temperature sensor. I have search and found conflicting answers on the forums as far as it location and description. From what I can see it is located near the bottom right hand corner of the radiator(Driver Side). I have removed the sensor and I did see some antifreeze spill out. I examined the sensor and it is blue in color with a rounded top. I called my local auto zone and received a replacement part but it is green and looks a little different.
I understand that the blue one that I removed is no longer produced. My question is is this the right sensor and the right location? All the write ups I can find say that it is located in the back of the engine yet I cannot find one there. Also when I replaced the blue senor with the green one the fan on my car is spinning at high speed(the AC fan) and will not idle. I am wondering if the new sensor is faulty/ incorrect or if i simply replaced the wrong sensor.
Here is a link to the replacement part I used : [URL] .....
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I was going to order a ECT gauge and was wondering where to mount the sensor. I have already used the port under the T-stat for the coolant filter. The gauge sensor is a 1/8 NPT. Would the block drains be a good location, or is there another location that will work.
I know the coolant filter housing has a port, but I would prefer the sensor be on the motor.
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My 04' GTI, 24v VR6, all stock, @ 107,000. I had a coolant leak from the t-stat housing. I installed all new housing, seals, and C-Pipe from GruvenParts. Already had a green CT sensor installed and the kit I got didn't come with one, so I didn't change it. Found out the leak was from the t-stat housing o-ring didn't fit the old housing. The new one fits perfect. I put coolant on the seals and burped it. Doesn't leak a drop. But still overheating, all the hoses have pressure and are hot, so no blockage....I noticed the fans were not coming on at all. The fans used to engage every other minute and run for 15 secs on high ONLY. Longer times, if not constantly w/ A/C on. I was wondering how to test the fans, sender, and/or fan control module to see which one of them isn't working. And which pinouts are what?
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