Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Cooling Fan Constantly Running?
May 2, 2014
I've decided the first issue w/ my new-to-me jetta I want to focus on is the cooling fan constantly running. I suspect this is potentially related to the temp gauge not reading anything, which I suspect might be because of the coolant temp sensor.
So basically, when I turn the key to on (I'm pretty sure it's on, not start), one of the cooling can comes on. It's the fan on the right side as if you are sitting in the driver seat. I've been looking at the wiring diagram for this issue as well, and the only other thing I can think of that isn't a computer involving issue would be the thermo switch. But it seems like both fans should be coming on in that case, and it's definitely only the one fan that is coming on.
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I can usually find what Im looking for with a quick search but I have had no luck with this issue.
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Some years back my "farm" '05 prius when a host of bells and whistles went off, cooling fan ran more than normal, and I lost power a couple of times. Turned out this farm prius had an accumulation of dirt, dog hair, hay and other debris that needed to be cleaned out. You got me through the whole process, and the car's run fine until.... . Fast forward a couple of years to 200,003 miles. Now the cooling fan is running pretty constantly, the red triangle stays lit, the check engine light comes on, the (!) is on, and the VSC light is on. Haven't hooked it up to check codes, but did check cooling fan and it's clean. Would it possibly possibly better to change the 12 volt battery?
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I am having issues with our 2001 vw jetta wolfsburg edition with a AWW engine the cooling fans not working properly. I had a bad fan and replaced it and since changed the thermo fan switch and the module under the battery and still no luck. With the key off I can jump the fans via the plug for the fan switch only low speed works with the key off. with the key on i can get both speeds of the fan to operate. With the ac on the fans operate.. normal driving the fans will not operate. and the engine will overheat and fans will not go on. Any other relays or sensors that could be faulty?
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I have a 2001 jetta 1.8 turbo. when I turn the car off the cooling fans stay on and kill my battery. Ive been told it could either be a relay or temp sending unit but i dont know what one to tackle first, also my coolent temp stays way low almost as if the thermostat is stuck open.
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I have a problem I can't seem to figure out. My car has a misfire at idle. It has stumbled every once in a while at idle before while at Red lights. Now it does it all the time. Check engine light is on and I got 5 codes. P0300, p0301, p0302, p0303, p0340, and p0012. The last two are for cam position sensor. I took it outo and looked at it. Looks fine. I reinstalled it and hand cranked the motor with a meter hooked up and I am reading about 10 volts when it senses the metal ring going around. So I think that is good. I sprayed brake cleaner on all the hoses to see if the motor reved to hopefully find a vacuum leak. Nothing. I also noticed today that my cooling fans or my ac don't work. Now I have another issue to deal with. I checked all my plugs and wiring and coils also.
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I need a way to make my both fans be on constant during track days, I know induction makes a fan kit for the mk4 r32 which works great but the controller in the MK5 is different and the kit don't fit.
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03 Santa Fe, 2.7 L engine. No cooling happening. Compressor not running. Jumpered both sides of the triple pressure switch. Jumpering Low/high side resulted in slight increase in engine rpm, Jumpering medium side and something turned on (didn't get a chance to investigate) but still no clutch operation on compressor. Wondering what to try next other than disconnecting and dropping compressor ?? Checked AC relay on the bench and the coil operates and contacts close, so that's good. Also10A fuse before relay contacts is OK.
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So I replaced my big fan today. Everyone knows that the factory fans are notorious for going out. After replacing the fan, I turn the car on and noticed that both fans were on... and never turned off. So I turned the car off, and turned the car over again. and they still were constantly running. I messed with the climatronic controls and when I have the settings on auto the fans are constantly running, when I have it on econ, they don't run. And when its on neither, the fans are constantly on unless I turn it off. Before replacing the fan, I replaced both the FCM, CTS, and the fan switch. Its becoming pretty frustrating. I supposed it could act as my own switch for the fans, hahaha. I've searched and havent found anything like this. Hopefully its something small
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I have an 04 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 AWD with climate control. All other trucks this year I've only seen with manual HVAC controls. My blower motor is constantly running anytime the key is turned on. It feels like it is blowing 3/4 strong all the time and I can turn it up, what feels like one setting higher. Even if the climate control is turned off it keeps blowing. I can control the temp and AC and defroster, I just cannot control the actual airflow pressure from the vents. On an older car this seems like a resistor issue. Is this a common issue? If so, what can I do to try to rectify this?
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My brothers jetta is over heating constantly. The thermo switch on the radiator and controller box under the battery have been replaced. The fans dont come on till just before the red mark on the gauge. There are no water leaks, and we can hear gurgling when running the engine. How can we tell if the water pump is bad or not and where is the thermostat if it has one.
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01 jetta vr6 5 speed. Alright so earlier today I pulled out the driveway. (Hard) was in 1st gear around 3 or 4 grand and I stomped it. Got to 6 grand and hit 2nd. Took 2nd to 6 grand and let of around 60 mph. After that I short shifted into 3rd, 4th, then 5th. I noticed going into fith was hard. Had kinda rev match to get it. I stayed in 5th till I got to my destination roughly 4 miles. When I came back out to leave I had a hell of a time getting it into reverse. On my way home it was extremely hard to shift and now when the car is running I cant get it into any gear. This is what I did.
Car shifts fine with car off.
Car will not shift with engine running.
When started in gear with clutch depressed I can still let the clutch out and stall the car.
When starting car while in gear with the clutch NOT DEPRESSED the car jumps forward.
I can figure it out ove tried re adjusting the linkage. Nothing.
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Have a 2001 Subaru Legacy GT, 5 speed manual, 194,000 miles.
A few months ago, I started noticing that my cooling fans are running more often. Even when it is cold out and the temperature gauge was at normal temperature. The fans would turn on, and just keep running. Obviously, they would turn off when I shut the car off, but if the car is on, they will stay on. However, I found a trick to get them to turn off. If I am in neutral, and I race the engine up to around 3000 RPM's or so for about 10 seconds, and let it come back down to idle speed, the fans are now off. Works almost every time, not just a coincidence.
I know my car, and this has never done this before. I know it is not normal. I have replaced the following- thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, flushed the system, changed the fan relays, and most recently, I put a brand new Subaru radiator in. All of this, and the issue is still there. I am beginning to wonder if it is the water pump. Coolant not circulating fast enough, so the fans come on to cool down, but when I race the engine, the water pump works harder circulating coolant faster? Also recently, the temp gauge starts to climb going up long steep grades. If I pull over and race the engine, the temp gauge drops almost immediately back to normal. The pump is not leaking or making any noise, so I'm not sure if it could go bad any other way.
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So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
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so it started like a month ago my door light would occasionally come on for no reason now it's to the point where my door light is always on and it constantly dings, i know its the door lock module but is there any way to tell which door? it might be the trunk and also is there a way to temporarily fix it soi don't drive my car into a tree from being so annoyed.
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I'm at 47000 miles. Out of no where the fan began to run and its been running most of the time when i turn on the engine.
There's no CEL, engine temp gauge is normal at 200. Coolant levels above MIN.
What might be triggering the fans to go on? I'm suspecting it might be coolant thermostat sensor.
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I just recently replaced all timing chains on a 2000 VR6 jetta, all is working great but now I have an ABS, traction control on and ebrake on (flashing) constantly. Did I miss a ground somewhere? the only one I know of was from battery
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I started the car one morning after it snowed. the red "BRAKE" light is constantly on and while the car is moving it beeps which is extremely annoying.. I have tried:
-Topping off brake fluid
- another ebrake sensor (under the center console)
- brake pads have plenty of meat on them
- brake light are working
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Now I've had this constant problem with this code that I just cannot get rid of. I've read many threads on here but nothing seems to be working. I currently am on the third maf that I've been able to test out, still throws the code. Connector is all clean, nothing wrong there. It is clean every time I just can't figure it out.
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2000 Jetta, 2.0 AEG engine with 220k miles, recently started intermittently stalling (about 15-20 minutes into my trip) while driving mostly on city streets but has also stalled on the freeway at 65mph. Fuel level is always > half full, verified against my tripometer. When it stalls, engine completely cuts off, all dashboard lights are all lit, and no power steering.
I have VCDS but know only enough to be dangerous My mechanic has no answers and I don't want to randomly throw new parts at this the car, hoping to resolve the problem. It's becoming seriously dangerous to drive, knowing it will die at least once on every trip. What's the chance the oxygen sensors need to be replaced ?
Symptoms
(1) Most of the time the engine just turns off, as if I turned off the ignition. Other times, I can catch the engine RPMs drop to ~300 and just hit the gas, which sometimes saves car from stalling.
(2) Immediately after it stalls, there is is rotten egg smell.
(3) Once stalled, the engine won't start back up again for at least 5 minutes. (turns over, but doesn't start)
(4) Confirmed error codes from VDCS: misfires on all cylinders and random
(5) Took it to my mechanic for diagnosis. They were unable to duplicate on a road test. Smoke test showed no vacuum leaks, road test monitoring data did not capture any additional faults, and found no faults running it heat soaked and parked. They captured sensor signal data and found no abnormal patterns. They feel replacing the O2 sensors is an expensive guess.
(6) Replaced the crankshaft position sensor after the car would not start at all, one morning. (discovered that the CPS tested at a faulty ~50k ohms). Bought a new one, installed it and it turned over immediately but the stall issue continues)
Fault Codes
Code:
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1649 - 35-10 - Missing Message from ABS Controller - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
16685 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2
P0140 - 35-10 - No Activity - Intermittent
seen separately
Code:
16517 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P0133 - 35-10 - Response too Slow - Intermittent
Note that I have been ignoring the ABS-related errors for 4+ years. (not a concern or priority). On the short list are ignition coil or crankshaft sensor. Both of which require my mechanic to replace, I think.
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Where to begin, I've checked things i thought could be the issue but aren't. I am having a constant e-brake light on which as you know emits the loud and annoying beep sound. What I've checked and done:
I checked the brake fluid, its fully topped off. I also removed the ebrake switch (the thing under it that when depressed pushes the button and turns the light off) and just crossed the wires to complete the circuit (this does the same as the button essentially) before buying a new one to see if that was the issue, which is doesn't seem to be. I had my buddy run vagcom which turned up no codes that SHOULD make this issue occur. I even popped in a new brake light switch which didn't work.
At the same time of this happening my car is making ZERO boost at all. Is it a coincidence? I don't know... it's just weird they would both happen at the same exact time. Again, no codes are showing up. Checked lines and didn't see any potential boost leaks. What to do.
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