Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Car Bogging Down At Half And WOT Throttle
Dec 6, 2014
I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0 and I was accelerating on the interstate the other day and the car just started bogging down and now the car only accelerates slowly at partial throttle any more and it makes a loud intake noise and bogs down also the car idles bad and even at partial throttle the car struggles to get above 3k rpm, I scan for codes and got MAF, O2 sensor before the cat and camshaft position sensor, I replaced the camshaft position sensor and car still runs like crap, what is the problem??
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I just bought a 2002 Accent L 5sp with 37,000 miles. It ran great for a couple hours, then started hesitating/bogging over half throttle. I also noticed the idle was a bit high at this time. Suspecting a dirty throttle position sensor, I repeatedly pressed the accelerator pedal to the floor for 15 seconds with the engine off.(this will sometimes clean gunk off the contacts inside the tps) I drove the car again, and now the symptoms changed. Now it has a hesitation under half throttle, and accelerates cleanly above that. Car has not and is not misfiring. I am on the right track with the tps sensor here?
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I searched but couldn't immediately find anything about this particular line. I've been struggling with a rough idle for the past couple weeks, throwing codes that I'm running to lean all the time. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF, and was in the process of replacing the MAF and noticed a small hose fitting behind the MAF but before the throttle body was pretty much split in half. I don't know what it's for and I'm replacing it regardless, but could this be the source of my problem?
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Whenever I completely engage the clutch after shifting into 5th, there car bogs for a second if I give immediate throttle after shifting. It doesn't happen if I wait a second or when driving in fifth gear.
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2001 1.8T Wolfsburg
Started it this evening and went to the store, on my way there the car was right messed up. No lights, wouldn't go over 500 rpm (no throttle response), eventually was stuck on the side of the road. Reset my throttle back to OEM and everything went back to normal, car hasn't shown any trouble since but it's only been a couple hours. I don't want to end up stranded somewhere so I'm wondering if my computer is possibly failing or should I try replacing the throttle body if it does it again?
Car is not chipped and was OEM throttle before (to my knowledge).
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I made an earlier thread about minor low speed crash and airbag deployment that has sense been fixed.
The engine 2.0 (AZG) will rev to 3000 (3200 sometimes) RPM and stop. This is only if you give it about 20% / 25% throttle. If you give it full throttle it spits and sputters. When I had the airbags installed. The codes were read it and also came up for cam sensor and o2 changed that and now the codes are gone. No CEL and it is exact same issues still. I can't tell if ECU is doing it but it feels like it's not getting enough gas or air since full pedal makes it stall.
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My car is stored outside rather than in a garage in winter. I do notice bogging or "gargled" acceleration maybe 4/10 on occasional days and sometimes the engine light will come once this happens and then other times it doesn't come on when it occurs. Engine light usually comes on rarely but when it does, it's when the bogging is really bad.
Question is what would be the most cost effective way to solve or find out what the issue is? And/ or, what would you think the underlying issue would be for starters? Also, does my year car have a MAF sensor? BTW the cabin filter and air filter were just changed a few months ago but unsure if this would include the shop cleaning the MAF if I do in fact have one.
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To start I drive a mliv 1.8t jetta. The car has a stage II custom tune, a turbo back exhaust straight piped, and a splitter valve. The valve cover gasket, spark plugs and coil packs, rear o2 sensor (with a 42dd spacer as well) were all changed recently to try and stop my problems from reoccurring. Also the MAF sensor was cleaned too, but was not very dirty. The problem tends to cease when I delete the codes and it has to relearn the fuel mapping. When the check engine light comes back on, the problems re occur. The code thrown is catalytic converter below threshold, but i have no cats. What happens with my car is, when the car is fully warmed, the car has a rough idle, to where it sounds like a heavy duty diesel truck when idling, the car will shake from the vibrations, when i go to start moving, the car bogs down to where it feels like it will stall, but it will buck and shoot off. Also when driving the car randomly bogs down, but then will shoot off will power! Sometimes at idle when its bad, if i tap the gas, the car will back fire very loudly.
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I have narrowed down my starting issue to a faulty relay(409). When I pulled the relay and cleaned the contacts and reinstalled the pump primed and the car started. Car will idle for about a 1/2 hour and out of the blue it shuts off. If I try to restart, 9 times out of 10 it does not start. If i tap the relay, it starts right up. If the car is running and I tap on the relay the car stutters and if I tap it again it shuts off.
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I have a 2005 jetta 2.0 Once it gets under half a tank I lose power, it acts like it's running out of gas. It only does it in warmer weather (this started in march when we took it to Florida, once it got back in the cold weather it didn't do it again until 2 days ago when it was in the 70's). I took it to he mechanic I've used since I got the car (he works exclusively on vw and audis). It didn't do it to him in the two weeks he had it, he couldn't find anything wrong that would cause the issue.
He did do a complete tune up, replaced both of my fans and coolant. I ended up replacing the coolant temp sensor myself since that decided to go bad after I got it back. It lost power after getting the car back again warm weather and just under half a tank of gas. Prior to the Florida trip the water pump, timing belt and starter were replaced. I had my fuel pump replaced in 2014. It is an automatic with 157k miles on it.
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I noticed through careful investigation that my 03 GTI 1.8T (180,000 KM's or 111,850 miles) will grind 3rd when in these conditions:
1. When the car has been driving for more then half an hour and everything is hot
2. When the car is over 2800 RPM's while hot (ie. getting on a highway)
Now I know lot's of people blame syncro's and yes I could see that my car has had 8 previous owners so I can't say they all shifted perfect. But what I do know is that when I downshift from either 4th or Neutral it will never grind even when I don't Rev Match or "Blip" the throttle. So it can't be syncro's in my opinion.
So what I've done to the car to rule out some problems were:
- Change the gear oil from what ever it was before to Royal Purple 75W-90 (NO luck.)
- Then I added a short shifter and adjusted my cables properly (still No luck)
- Finally I noticed my shifter was sloppy and one of my bushings were torn so I bought 42 DD's metal bushings and the shifter did stiffen up a lot, however!!! (No luck)
I know it's not my driving technique because I watch my foot depress the clutch fully and then I gently push it into third. I also know I'm shifting correctly because I can double clutch and normally shift through every other gear properly without any grinds or clunks. Just the devilish 3rd gear.
I would like to hear the solution. I'm going to change the oil one more time to Redline MT-90 and see how that goes, but if that doesn't work I might just tear apart or get a new tranny.
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i have a 03 gti vr6. 24v 6 speed. it started losing coolant the other day. but the thing is the radiator all the hoses and the water pump(s) are all dry. its fine when its cold, holds coolant just fine. but when it warms up its only fine at idle, so im guessing its some sort of pressure related leak. the car goes through half a gallon every mile or so. only the inner fender on the left side is soaked and the suspension components on that side as well.
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Yesterday, I was taking off from a light and noticed that when I got around 10 PSI, the car kind of nosed over and sputtered. So I started to play around and discovered that no matter what gear, this always happened between 7-12 PSI of boost. Normal driving for me is shifting around 3k RPM, about half throttle. Sometimes when I shift, it pops. Not like a normal, chipped car pop but not quite loud enough to be a backfire.
I took my dad out in the car and got to 55 MPH, then held the throttle half way to keep boost around 10 PSI and it would start sputtering/bogging down erratically. Any more then 12, and the car is fine. Any less then 7 and the car is fine. He suggested a Throttle Position Sensor that has a dead spot in it.
Here's some thought from me:
Coils/Misfires - If it were a coil or misfiring, it would be all the time, not just what I described above, correct?
Boost Leak - At WOT, the car gets up and goes while holding steady boost.
Vac Leak - I've been told at idle, the car is supposed to have 19-21 in Hg of vacuum. It's at 20.
If you turn your speakers up, you can actually hear the exhaust gurgling in the video when I hit the spot I am talking about. There are no loud noises, so don't worry about maxing them. I had to.
[URL] ...
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Mk4 jetta 1.8t ECP light is on, when I lightly push gas, car stalls and cuts off. Where to begin? Here's the vagcom readings:
906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0007
Coding: 07500
Shop #: WSC 78901
VCID: 77FDFDB25513C5A6AAD-5140
3VWSE69M12M090016 VWZ7Z0A4180723
18 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
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What are the symptoms of a bad o2 sensor, 2.0.. My son is having some problems with his car hesitating when he gets into the throttle and the only codes we are getting shows bad O2 sensor pre cat.
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Car is a 20th, 1.8t 6-speed.
I noticed something the other day that is happening occasionally on acceleration. At partial throttle, usually pulling away from a light or stop sign, I get this weird hesitation. It only happens at partial throttle and usually only in first, sometimes in second. As the RPMs increase up to around 3k, it's as if I lose power for a second. You can feel the car stop accelerating for a second, then it begins to pull again.
If it's under heavy acceleration it never happens. It doesn't feel like the clutch slipping, more like the motor hesitating, but there's no noises or missing or anything like that. The RPMs don't jump up or anything. It's like for a second it's making no power, then it comes back.
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98 AEB just rebuilt the engine completely, put a K04-15 turbo on it along with a FMIC and a forge diverter/BOV. Everything runs great idles great. when i try to get into it it bucks at 4500+ rpm. when i baby it she runs great smooth sailing. Is this a fuel issue?
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I have a 1985 Ford F250 with a 351 windstar in it. I just put a new fuel pump and fuel filter on my truck and it starts and drives but back fires really bad. Sparks are hitting just fine and I am almost positive that all vacuum lines are plugged in or plugged off. What it would be? What about the float could it cause that. Its fine at half throttle but backfires anymore than that.
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I was driving home yesterday, when all of a sudden felt like the car downshifted by its self. I tried giving it gas but nothing happened. The car still starts up and runs fine there's just no throttle response. I had to drive it home by riding the gears. Today i scanned the car and a few codes came up. I already had some previous codes because my secondary air injection pump is deleted and same with an evap solenoid also had some codes for injectors but im pretty sure that's cause they're not stock and the resistance isn't the same. The codes that popped up including the previous ones.
P1631 accelerator position sensor g79
P1634 accelerator position sensor limp mode?
p1469 evap code
P1433 secondary air pump
P1690 malfunctioning cell light
Im pretty sure that's what each code is for. The last 3 codes were previously existing and the car drove fine.
Anyways i tried cleaning up the contacts on the gas pedal, didn't work. So I looked under my car to look for damaged 02 wires, which i found. Did a super shotty temporary fix, and still nothing works. I heard maybe it could be my ecu? The car is a 1999.5 golf originally a 2.0 but has been swapped with a awp 1.8t out of a 20th, 5 speed Lots of work done to the engine.
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I decided to take out the throttle body and clean it with throttle body cleaner that I got from autozone, after I put everything back, I started my car and the motor was shaking and smoking a lot out the muffler and just would not be drivable at all. the RPM was just going up and down and hesitating bad. later I took off the spark plugs and they were very much burnt black at the tips and that is probably not normal right? but I replaced them with NGK BKR7E spark plugs and it still gave me the problem.
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I have a 2003 Jetta 2.0 with the drive by wire throttle and I've been having some problems with it lately.
When on the highway (at a constant speed) sometimes it's almost like you take your foot off the accelerator pedal, then when you go to press it more, nothing happens, until you pump it a few times, it works again. This sounds like an electrical problem to me, not fuel or spark, because it's not sputtering at all, it just ignores your accelerator input. Is the "throttle module" a serviceable part?
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