Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Battery Dead - Sits For 10 Minutes Then Start Again
Jul 27, 2015
I have an 01' 1.8 t. We had a Pioneer touch screen Bluetooth deck installed and it was fine for months. All of a sudden it started having battery problems. If it sat for 6+ hours it was dead. We got a new battery from pep boys and once again it was fine for months. They tested my charging system and all components and everything was good. Then it started dying again. We'd charge it and after about 10-20 min it would start. Now the sit time is sporadic, sometimes it will sit all day and start right up and sometimes it sits for 10 min and won't start. Now its not taking a charge. We've once again checked the terminals, charging system, alt. Etc. And its all good. I don't know if it has anything to do with the stereo. We've checked all the wiring and its how it should be, I'm at a loss with this car. It occasionally throws a check engine light but we've hooked up the OBD and there's no codes. When I run the ac the car acts super sketchy, and starts throwing lights. (Brakes, air bag, wipers, engine, asr, doors). Fuses checked out all good, we haven't been able to find a single diagnostic explaining wtf is going on. I love my car too much to give up on her.
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I am absolutely stumped and so are two mechanics I've been to. Randomly when I go to start the car the battery is so dead it won't start. Car is an AWD 2001 1.8T Jetta.
Replaced battery and alternator at my regular mechanic, all ground wires look great and couldn't find any shorts. There is a 11 Amp draw from my battery, took it to a shop that specializes in VW/Audi and they hooked it up to Vagcom and it showed absolutely nothing wrong. He left the meter hooked up and pulled every single fuse in the car and there was only like a 0.01 drop, nothing significant. When he went to take my car out of the shop, wouldn't start. So he put a battery pack on it, still wouldn't start. Took off both terminals on the battery, put them back on, put on the battery pack, and car started.
The aftermarket deck in it is just a JVC single din, doesn't seem to have any issues.
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I have a 2000 Silverado Z71 with a 4.8 and Auto Trans. Here lately if the truck sits for more than a day with out being cranked the battery is dead. Put a new battery in last July. When i put a meter on it the Alt. shows 14 volts out put. once it is cranked it will start every time with no problem.
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I have a new battery in my 2000 Dodge Ram 1500. The battery becomes dead if the car sits for 2-3 days.The engine easily starts when the battery is jumped. The charge remains for 2-3 days, but then depletes, andthe battery must be jumped again. How do I diagnose what circuit is depleting the battery?
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So I have an oil leak I can't figure out. 2001 jetta vr6 5spd. The bottom of the car is covered with oil. It appears to be leaking above the transmission. It will consistently drip at idle. Oil sits on top of transmission and then Leaks down over the starter. It doesn't have any coolant leaks. Is there anything anything in that area that could leak oil that bad?
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So pretty recently the battery in my MK4 GTI went bad and when I put in a new one everything went back to normal except for my radio. The stereo doesn't turn on at all, no power goes too it period. The security light doesn't blink, the buttons don't light up when I switch on my headlights. It didn't ask for a radio security code or anything. I'm not sure how to troubleshoot or what to do at all and when I asked my local stereo shop to fix it they informed me that it would cost $70 an hour for them to "investigate".
I have the stock premium Monsoon radio, the typical double DIN one. Before I changed the battery I tried jumping it and all it did was heat up the jumper cables, not sure if that blew the fuse in the radio.
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A week ago before I left for h20 my battery light came on, i drove for 10 mins and it went off. I also had a battery test and alternator test at that time and everything showed up ok. I drove 800 miles all good. Last night the battery light came on again, I was far from home so just tried making it back but the car dies on me. Before it died the traction and abs light turned on, the lights dimmed, when I gassed it the lights would get a tiny bit brighter. Also my gauges got stuck at the rpm i was driving at and 70 mph, even though i came to a stop already.
When i tried to gas the car it was backfiring, sometimes i couldn't even give it gas. Only way to start the car was to jump it, then i can drive a little before the car died again.
I drove with my battery box off the highway because highway patrol said i have to and got towed how from there last night. The ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY WERE CHANGED a year and a half ago apx 12000 miles, all oem equipment for the alternator. The serpentine belt and tensioner on top have also been changed and serviced.
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So my toddler turned on my dome light on Friday and I didn't realize it all weekend. Monday morning the battery was D.E.D. Charged it all day then jumped it and it turns over but no start. Took it to Autozone for a deep charge and test and ended up with a new battery. Installed it and the engine turns over but still won't start. It ran fine on Friday. This car is my commuter and I don't want to spend the money to take it to the shop. Why it won't now start? Could the dead battery have killed something else while it sat in my driveway?
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My wife left the lights on in the 2001 Camry and completely draining the battery. I tried to jump her but the car would not start (turns over great). Also the electrical system was strange in that the lights would not go off and other electrical items did not function. I disconnected the battery and fully recharged it and put it back on. I noticed that the "ALT" (100A) fusible link was blown and replaced it. Car still will not start (turns over great). The electrical problems appear fixed however the radio does not work. I tried to read the codes on the ODB and got "ERR". I checked all other fuses and they are good. I checked the pin-out voltage on the ODB port and was reading ~11.5V. I am wondering if I missed something like is the ECM bad? I can replace this myself for $150, but if I have it towed to a dealer it will cost me $800. Is there a way I can be sure that the ECM is bad, also are there other things to check that I may have missed. Also, when I turn the key to the "on" position, but do not start the car, the "Check engine" light does not illuminate.
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I'm posting as a last ditch effort to try and rescue my 2001 Vw golf here's some quick details about the car then I'll go into the situation.
2001 Golf 1.8t 5speed
Euro customs stage 2 Aftermarket intake and downpipe
Still have front and rear O2 sensor and probably cat. Maybe..
Otherwise stock
201k miles
Okay so pretty much here's the rundown.. I was driving my car to work one day, then all the sudden lost complete throttle response to my car but was about to cruise at about 5-8mph to get to work and avoid towing. What is going on besides the EPC light was on and CEL was on. After work I discovered that the rear O2 sensor was hanging down and frayed.
Apparently from what I was told, that fries your ecu and put the car into a similar mode as mine. I then replaced the ecu with the euro customs ecu, I replaced the throttle pedal, and the throttle body since all I was getting was throttle codes. I am still not able to get rid of either EPC or CEL lights. The codes showing are p0638 and p2101. Yes I have tried to get the throttle body realigned or whatever you call it. However the vag com will not let you realign with the codes still in the computer which have been deleted but come back immediately.
The rear O2 is still unplugged and I still have little to no throttle response.
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I stored my car with a friend for a few months and of course he let it sit too long. He had to do a running start and now the dash lights are a penalty. I'm still out of town, but I am getting on a airplane right now to come home and be with my R again. He said the car was cutting of at stop lights, I'm sure he drove it cold.
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My car is idling at 1000 rpm for a few minutes when I start it, why? Just started a few days ago...
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I'm driving a 03 1.8 jetta with no mods. Whenever my Jetta sits for more than 24hrs, I have a hard time starting it. It turns over just fine but sputters to a stall once it fires. I do this 3 times before it revs high and stabilizes.
I changed out the coil packs, fuel filter and spark plugs. I can hear the fuel pump prime before starting so I assume that is working fine.
I dont notice any issues while driving either. Its just the start up. It particularly acts up in cooler temps and higher humidity (raining days too).
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This only happens once or twice a week. After driving the car for 20+ minutes and sitting in the driveway, it will start running hot. I'd say around 230 degrees and it will stay there until I start driving the car again. I made sure the fans work and I also checked the coolant level and both are fine. What could be causing this issue?
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I have a 2001 Ford Taurus SEL that runs perfectly fine — most of the time. About once every month or so, I'll be driving around, running errands or whatever, and I'll get into the car and it won't start. It wants to turn over but sputters like it's just getting little bursts of fuel. No warning lights or check engine light come on, I've tried jump starting, resetting the emergency fuel shutoff, swapping relays, it's been to the shop multiple times — they just end up cleaning the fuel filter — I've tried everything I can think of. The kicker is, if I let the car sit for an hour or two, it will start right back up like nothing ever happened.
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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The car has 96xxx miles and doesn't like to turn over when it sits for more than about 6 hours, it is worse the colder it is. Once the car starts it will fire right up every time you start it as long as it doesn't sit for more than about 6 hours. It doesn't make any strange noises while starting just the normal vum vum vum vum VUM vum vum VUM VUM vum vum etc until it finally catches. I should also add that upon starting (and this only happens when it hard starts) it will idle at around 1500rpm while in the park. The shift to reverse it drops to about 1000, shift back to park it goes back to 1500. I have already replaced the fuel pump, 02 sensors, MAF, and the camshaft position sensor. I took it to a shop once, they could not figure out the problem but claimed it was a common problem with Nissans of that period and if I primed the fuel pump by turning the key to the ACC point for about a minute and pressing the gas a little bit when I tried to start it that it would start. That does not work.
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I have a mk4 golf gti vr6. For about the past month every few days when I shut off my car and then try to start it next time I get a very fast clicks. After I disconnect and reconnect the battery it starts up just fine. Yesterday after getting off the highway it shutoff when I came to a stop. Took the key out and before I disconnected the battery it started back up with a turn of the key. I'm guessing it's some kind of ECU issue because it starts up after I reconnect the battery?
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This is my first VW. My first European car at all. I've been having what I think are battery issues, but they're weird. Every... I'd say 3rd or 4th start, I just get the clickclickclickclickclick thing. Then I jump it and it starts fine. When I don't have to jump it, it's been starting rough. When I jump it is the only time it starts smoothly. To me that screams battery.
The other day, I went to start it and it wouldn't start. But I had nothing to do that day so I went back inside and did whatever. Went out about 5 hours later, and it started just fine.
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I have an 02 GTI w/ 1.8t and 5spd. I was in the drive through and all of the sudden the ABS, ASR, and seatbelt lights came on and the battery light is randomly blinking. I got home turned the car off and went to restart it and when I turn the key nothing happens. I should also mention I recently have 2 cels for p0701 lean condition and bank 1&3 misfires that developed after I replaced a bad injector. Where do I even start?
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I recently bought a 2000 Golf VR6 and I've noticed that my fan to the radiator stays in way too long and think it might be draining my battery. I don't even have to start the engine, once I put my key in the fan starts going. I'm getting really annoyed of having to take the out the fuse to get it to turn off. The battery is brand new so I don't think that's the problem.
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