I just replaced the lower control arm bushings. This is for an '01 GTI. Getting ready to put the wheels back on. I've noticed lately that it can be tough to get the wheels off. And I noticed that the the hubs are a bit rusty.
Would it be a good to put some anti-seize on the hubs, before refitting the wheels?
And maybe treat the hubs with a little Evaporust or something similar, first?
2000 VW Jetta
Yesterday everything was working great with my FOB key, I swapped plastic housing to one that is in better condition and then things went down hill. Both FOB's tested great for wireless transmitter. Old FOB no longer locks, unlocks or pops trunk. Car drives and turns over with master and valet keys properly (ruling out immobilizer I believe?)
I am trying to reset and program the FOB but my anti-theft system is not turning on with key- and that is critical to have on with what I have read here. Once I can get the red-light flashing and indicating anti-theft is on, I should be good to proceed.
Last night I turned key in car to on position and the alarm was going off, used the master key to pop the trunk open and that caused the alarm to cease.
Since then I can not get the anti-theft/alarm to activate at all. Currently if I have all my doors and windows closed along with the trunk, turning the key in door to the lock position it locks but does not activate the anti-theft -- no blinking red LED. Turning the key twice does not lock all doors either.
Well last night on my way home after work (2:30 AM) I was on the turnpike and puff my car shut down and anti theft immobilizer light started blinking and the car won't start got it tow....
View 3 Replies2001 toyota sequoia had oil changed but the oil leak out within 1/2 a mile. Engine automatically shut off. Oil was refilled but when we tried starting it, it would not run. The engine would crank over and over but would not get to the point where it would run or start. Ive been told there may be a safety shut off unit that activates when there is very low oil or no oil at all. What may have actually happened? Can a motor seize within a few minutes of driving @ 40 mph?
View 11 RepliesI'm almost at a lose here. I have a 01 1.8t golf and at 60 the steering wheel shakes and at 80+ i feel it in the whole car. I've already replaced both axles, wheel bearings, tie rods, ball joints, new coilovers, new wheels and tires, and passenger side control arm. There's not much more I can replace besides hubs and driver control arm or do u think it could be defective parts like one of the new axles.
View 9 RepliesWhenever I brake hard the steering wheel jerks to the right and the car follows. And it'll stay to the right until I got about third gear or if I shake the wheel back and forth. Not sure what it is. What could cause this? 01 jetta wolfsburg.....
View 8 RepliesI bought these wheels last summer from ECS Tuning - Alzor wheels for my Jetta. I haven't driven too much on them since I was deployed to Afghanistan for 9 months. I've been home 4 months. I think I have about 10k miles on them. The issue is that now one of them leaks. I took it in to be checked, thinking it was the tire. There is no rock rash, I haven't hit anything. The wheel leaks from the area that the spoke connects to the wheel base. There is no visible sign of a crack at all so I don't know what the heck is up. The paint looks fine from the spot it leaks from.
View 4 RepliesI have a bad wheel bearing but on the highway my steering wheel shakes. It is only on the highway not down residential streets. I'm pretty sure it is the driver's side wheel bearing. I already balanced my wheels and everything.
View 5 RepliesA Water gets into wheel hubs much easier with aftermarket wheels than OEM wheels. I have a set of BBS RS-GT wheels and this is what the rear hub looks like after about a year. Previously I noticed with OEM wheels there is just a little surface rust. Hopefully I won't need to remove in the future as it looks welded.
View 14 RepliesNoticed that both rear wheel hubs don't spin freely, they rub or grind. 2013 Elantra sedan gets about 10% worse MPG than a 2012 Elantra we traded in for it, two identical cars yet 2012 got much better MPG and now we notice a rubbing noise on the 2013.
2013 Elantra has 19000 miles but has always had reduced MPG, markedly worse than the identical 2012 we traded, but dealer could never find a problem with 2013.
Wonder if this rubbing on the wheel hubs is to blame for the lower MPG? I can't think it works. Not sure if its the emergency brake, the power brakes, the wheel bearing or something else.
Is this rubbing noise normal? Rubbing happens with the hub only or even with the wheel attached to the hub.
So from my previous post of might having a tranny problem or differential issue, it turns out that my front passenger side wheel hub is bad. Here is the odd part......the front passenger side wheel has some side to side play and it does make a clunk noise but it spins freely. On the driver side, there doesn't seem to be any play but it has resistance when spinning the wheels. Are both front wheel hubs bad or just one?
View 1 Replies2012 Passat with only 6k miles. I have surface rust on center wheel hub area. Is this normal or should I paint it or is this a warranty issue?
I have it on 3 of the wheels..
My 2009 F-350 4x4 has a front wheel option of Auto or Lock ; I think I understand the Auto option but under what circumstances would I lock the hubs and is it safe to leave them in the Lock mode when traveling on the highway?
View 5 Replies(2004 f150 S.Crew 4x4) I noticed that my 4 wheel drive is not working. The front hubs won't lock in. The transfer case will go into 4 low but the hubs still won't lock in.
Anyway, I have pulled vacuum on both actuators and one of them won't hold. It's obviously bad, but is that why I don't have 4x4? It seems to me like it is not...
When I pull a vacuum on the actuator that does hold, it disengages the hub from the driveshaft allowing free-wheeling. Correct me if I'm wrong, but when the truck is running in 2wd, vacuum must flow to the actuators preventing the hubs from engaging? The actuator on the bad side is locked 'in' so the driveshaft always turns.
According to my train of thought, since the actuator has failed in the 'locked in' position, I should still have 4x4- What am I missing?
My 2001 Jetta 2.0L steering wheel vibrates at about 60+ mph and when I turn the steering wheel to the right into a turn, the vibration intensifies. I've changed and rotated my tires, but to no avail, the problem persists. I have yet to take this problem to a mechanic until I've found out what the issue actually is, as I do not want to get jerked around. I've looked around on various VW blogs, and from what I can gather, the CV joint needs to be replaced/repaired.
View 3 RepliesI was getting a growl/grinding noise from my front hubs (driver's side I think) when I do a slight right turn like going around a curve, not turning around a corner. Just started happening the last week after returning from a 4th of July roadtrip. First thought was wheel bearings going out and started reading up on the forum here to see what was needed. Last night, I started getting a continuous growl when I was 5 miles from the house so just pulled up and parked it. I'm assuming (without pulling anything apart), it's the bearing assembly and I can get the Timken version at Autozone locally.
The problem is I generally do my heavy maintenance at our family shop in San Antonio but I live in Austin so will need to do this in my driveway. I have all the basic tools, just need to know how involved it is to do in a driveway instead of a shop. Thoughts?
My 2001 f150 is not starting up. The anti theft light flashes and then eventually slows down and flashes one time, pauses and then flashes two more times. The odometer still shows my mileage as I know some people with this issue just get dashes. I know there are passive anti theft codes that can indicate what is wrong but cant find a chart with any info for all the codes. I'm going to assume my pats transceiver module is shot. Or maybe the key simply needs to be reprogrammed? I checked fuses, relays, etc and didn't see any that were blown. What could be causing it? Or maybe there's a relay I forgot to check out.
View 6 RepliesMy F350 4x4 won't go into 4 wheel drive unless I get out and take them out of auto and put them in locked position and when I have it in lock mode it seams to work like it's in auto mode, when I put the switch on the dash in 2wd, it seams like it's only driving the back wheels....
View 14 RepliesI recently picked up a '99 F250 Super Duty with the 6.8L V10 for a song.
The 4 wheel drive hubs are not working with the vacuum. If I use the manual lock on the hubs all is well. I ordered the Innova 31703 CarScan OBD2 + OBD1/ABS/SRS Scan Tool. It says it does Trans codes. I am hoping it will cover the 4 wheel drive too.
Maybe related, the heat is always on. Meaning I feel heat at my feet when the temp dial is cold and fan is off. I can't find the heater control valve to check the vacuum line.
2000 GMC Sierra, just over 200k, 4.8L, 4WD. Son was driving and the rear differential seemed to sieze up. Internal casing was destroyed, so got a replacement. Matched the size using the code inside the glove box (something similar to GT4 in both vehicles - it matched exactly). Attached video shows the sound that is coming from the rear of the truck. This noise happens on deceleration. Can drive at least 20MPH and let off the gas. Truck begins shaking at 45MPH. There is no feeling of loss of power or anything negative besides the sound on deceleration.
Important note, this sound was present before we changed the differential guts, and is absent when in 4WD. We only hear the sound when the truck is in 2WD.
My anti-lock brakes keep activating when i am slowing down from a speed above 10 mph once i reach a mphh. I have just installed koni sports on the front and bg springs all around with 20mm wheels spacers in the rear. The sound is coming from the driver side wheel and i can feel the brake pedal reacting in the way it does when the anti-lock brakes are activating. I haven't had a chance to take the wheel back of and check the sensors and wires.
It makes a grinding and popping kind of noise, which again remind me of anti-lock brakes.