2001 jetta 4 dr. 2.0 gas
The other day I was driving and the air just quit. No screeches bangs or anything. I checked all the fuses and realized my main fan wasn't working.
I replaced both fans but still no air. When I push the button on the dash for recirculate my brake light on the instrument panel comes on.
I bought my Saturn Vue Hybrid and was driving for a week when I heard a sound while driving and suddenly the air conditioning quit working and started blowing hot air. I took it to Pep Boys and they told me to take it to a dealership. After three hours and 143 bucks I was told the A/C clutch appears to have come off of the compressor. I have noticed others have had this same issue in Hybrids. Is this a recall or what do I do since this repair is not a cheap one? Also, what other models have the same ac compressor/ clutch for purchasing?
View 1 RepliesI have an 04 jetta and have replaced the wiper motor, the relay and the switch. I'm not sure where to go from here.
View 2 RepliesOut of the blue, months ago, the A/C quit working. I rarely used it prior so I can't say for sure if it was losing "coolness." It may have been. And other than hearing a slight hum or whine after turning the compressor off, which it has done since almost new everything was fine. Although it did, recently, before the A/C died, begin to overheat while waiting in traffic. Never did it again.
I have not done a bunch of troubleshooting other than adding some refrigerant and monitoring the fans and A/C clutch to see if they cycled, which they did not (assuming I was reading the fan process accurately). The gauge did read low, I filled it to the green zone, the compressor clutch engaged, level dropped, I added, it cycled, then dropped, all the while still blowing hot air. I quit doing that but it remained on the low side of green.
The car has 180k miles and runs great. I'm getting ready to sell her after 11 years but really need the A/C working to get anything out of it in the South.
Here's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:
- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage
So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...
1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.
My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...
Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.
I had just picked my car up from the shop after getting a new 3" downpipe installed (welded to stock cat) and attached to stock catback exhaust. I mention this because I never had this problem before and have already had installed a TIP, boost hose kit, DV, larger intercooler, and breather hose kit, all for a Unitronic Stage 2 tune.
So I go to turn on the A/C and the idle drops to about 400 rpm, almost stalls, interior shudders, vacuum jumps from about 20 to 10 as the engine revs itself a bit, and then it settles back out and the car runs fine (awesome with the new tune) and A/c works great. I have used the A/C a bit since getting all other upgrades done and never had a problem, or I didn't notice, but I'm wondering why a new downpipe would make a difference. I tried turning it on and off a few more times and the same things happened at idle, but after that initial dip and near-stall the engine was just fine around town and on the highway.
I have an 01 Jetta 1.8t wolfsburg eddition and the AC won't blow cold air. The AC Clutch does engage when I press the AC button on the control unit The refrigerant pressure is good The fan blows, but its hot air. the condenser is working because the pipe is cold when the ac is running I am curious if any of you know what other possible problems could be causing this. It is currently 100 degrees with 100% humidity
View 11 RepliesHow many degrees should cool the air conditioning? My Golf 4 has about 14 years and doesn't seem to cool as much as before. Measuring with the probe of a multimeter, the temperature of the air coming through the air vents drops 10 C below ambient temperature. For example at 28 C ambient temperature I can get 18 C through the air vents, but doesn't seem that low. After the air mixes inside you don't really notice a big drop.
View 2 RepliesOk here is the issue, my girlfriend owns a MK4 '99 Jetta. Through the search I was able to figure out why she is having so many issues with her door locks and how they can be fixed on the cheap..thats awesome. But here is the problem. She was driving down the road the other day, A/C working...then suddenly it stopped blowing cold. Fan is still working, just blows hot air. She said it started blowing warm suddenly and hasnt been getting warmer through out the past days or anything.
With the hood popped and the a/c on, you can see that the compressor isnt engaging. The car makes a noise like its engaging the compressor, but nothing is happening that I can see visually. Seems as if the compressor is not getting the signal to engage. It sounds like its trying to make the compressor kick on about every 5 seconds or so. Basically that initial clicking sound that your hear RIGHT before the compressor comes on when its working normally.
We have checked the fuses and no luck with those, all look good. Seems like its an electrical issue to me. What this may be? Bad pressure switch? Low pressure in the system? I know the car has had the compressor replaced before...and the clutch seems to spin freely when the car is off.
I am having issues with our 2001 vw jetta wolfsburg edition with a AWW engine the cooling fans not working properly. I had a bad fan and replaced it and since changed the thermo fan switch and the module under the battery and still no luck. With the key off I can jump the fans via the plug for the fan switch only low speed works with the key off. with the key on i can get both speeds of the fan to operate. With the ac on the fans operate.. normal driving the fans will not operate. and the engine will overheat and fans will not go on. Any other relays or sensors that could be faulty?
View 2 RepliesMy stereo fuse had blown off and while trying to find it, i removed all the fuses one by one to see which one was blown. I found the fuse, changed it, stereo was back to life. Only problem is that right before removing the fuses the car was driving normal. After checking the fuses the car seems to take longer to start; starter keeps turning for twice the time it did before. Also it seems as if the turbo is not even there. Btw the car is a golf mk4 tdi 150 bhp 2001 model
View 4 RepliesSo I just got a new car tonight (01 Jetta 1.8t) traded my tdi for it. They failed to tell me about the lighting problem. The dash light (blue ones that light up whole dash) only work sometimes. Don't work when headlight switch is on (have euro switch) but they will work sometimes if you put the left blinker or hazard lights on. Illumination for window / lock controls are glowing red, same as all the buttons by the vents up top of the radio, ac / climate control lights not working. They did end up telling me that they swapped the other car they had (2L golf mk4) and they swapped in that dash and it worked no issues. Do I need a whole new cluster?? Or is there something I can try to fix it?
View 1 RepliesSo I bought an 01 GTI last week with a decent amount of things pre-modified including a Jetta front end swap? Anyway the guy I bought it from knew absolutely nothing about what had been done to the car other than the fact that there was an HID kit installed and it was set up to run high beams only.
I figured I'd remove the HID's until i drop some cash on a pair of nice projector housings. I removed them and plugged up some nice sylvania bulbs as per the OEM standard 9007, and figured I'd have no issues... They are still stuck on high beam only... What could be causing this?
I just got a 2001 Jetta 2.0 (I know slow but I needed a work vehicle) and the dash lights and passenger rail lights don't work, the check engine light, fuel light, all those type of lights work, but the speedometer and blinkers and that stuff don't work, and then the blinker works in the back but no break light. I'm pretty good mechanically but when it comes to electrical stuff I'm completely stumped. What it could be? I haven't looked into anything due to just getting it last night and having to work this morning.
View 3 RepliesMy problem(s) are as follows:
I recently got a 2001 VW Golf 1.8T from a buddy in the Marines. He delivered it to me at my home almost 4 hours away, as described, reportedly without any issues. I got all of the paperwork transferred so that my wife could have a solid daily driver, only to discover ...
1) The vehicle in question was apparently used by a car audio company local to him, who has done some serious screwing with the electrical system in order to incorporate (and then remove) their crap.
2) When shifting through the gears, and coming to 4th gear, you get a couple of seconds of initial acceleration, followed by deceleration and RPMs falling, which in turn leads to the speedo dropping.
3) The same thing happens in 5th gear.
4) The only option is to downshift to a lower gear, which she did, and was apparently cruising along at 60 mph in 2nd gear, as 3rd gear was behaving the same way as 4th/5th upon downshifting. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I'm pretty sure this is a BAD thing .
Just bought my 5th Vdub an 01 Jetta Wolfsburg with 1.8T and 5 speed manual. I bought it from a local dealer and found the speedo not working. they ordered parts for it to fix that and the front end. They tried to fix it by replacing the VSS. CEL was off when I first started driving it then came on shortly and began to stutter. I haven't hooked my vag-com yet because I just got home with it a little while ago. I think it may be a loose wire because it also beeps and fuel gauge goes to empty around corners. Typical areas to look for etc???
View 13 RepliesI have a 2001 Prius with almost 224,000 miles. It has never had any power steering problems during the 7.5 years that I have owned it. About 10 days ago during a heavy rain, I parked it nose down on a driveway that was steeply inclined. The next morning when I started it there was no power steering. I find that the un-powered steering is not all that bad to drive. About like a 1939 Ford. Correction requires replacing the entire steering system, including the rack. Can I use the steering system from a 2003 to avoid recurrence of the problem? If so, does the replacement process differ from using a 2001 system?
View 3 RepliesI was recently on a road trip, using my cruise control extensively (like usual) when it just quit working. I tried to reset to a lower speed, but it would rev itself back up to the original speed. I turned off the cruise control, drove a mile or so and turned it back on. The cruise dash light came on, but the right control buttons no longer worked. No check engine light. It's never worked since.
My local tire shop checked codes and found the tcm not communicating with the mod (cruise module?). I'm looking to take it to the dealer, but I'd like to be better informed with what I may be dealing with before I get there.
Windshield wipers quit working. Wiper fluid still squirts. Fuse is good. Looking for any information for troubleshooting further.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2005 Santa Fe, and both power mirrors quit working at the same time. I plugged in a different switch, and still nothing. I checked the 10 amp fuse under the dash and that was good (is there a different one). The locks still work though.
View 3 RepliesIt was blowing cold and stopped. Minutes later it started again and then stopped. This went on for a week and then stopped altogether. Car has 190,000 miles. Is it compressor, clutch or relay....
View 5 Replies