Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 1.8t Not Getting Full Boost / Vacuum Leak?
Sep 11, 2015
Ever since I got my car about 5/6 months ago I noticed it's not getting full boost. when I first got it the stock boost was getting about 5-7 I don't know if that's normal I've read they normally get more. eventually I got my car tuned and it's supposed to peak at 22 psi but it only got to about 13-14 psi. slowly it's been getting worse and my car is getting 2 psi. I've had lots of people tell me it's a vacuum leak. also the bov makes a flutter noise if that has anything to do with it. my intake doesn't make a sucking in noise like most do. The car has been randomly backfiring usually between gears. I just ordered a turbo inlet pipe a breather hose kit and a boost hose kit.
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Bought a 1.8t 04 gli. Was boosting 15 pounds so i did a boost leak test. Found pcv up hose from valve to y pipe at valve cover was almost blown in half, so i replace all of that stuff with oem.
Boost leak test again, found where boost gauge is hooked up to, turbo outlet to n75, the hose was leaking, i fixed that.
Boost leak test yet again, n75 was not clamped down, so clamped that.
Boost leak test one last time, held 10 psi before blowing the cap out of the intake. Which is pretty dangerous, my cap is made out of a spray can cut in half. Sounds like a canon. Anyways i heard zero leaks.
So now I am boosting 18psi and holding perfectly fine. Why I am showing ZERO vacuum on my boost gauge??
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I just replaced my my k03s with another one with only 20k on it. After I did this, I noticed a loud screech sound when in WOT. The screech lasts a little bit after i left off the gas when revving in neutral. I've been doing research on here, and I've read that it could be a boost leak somewhere or even the turbo dying. The shaft play is minimal though.
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I have a stage 2 2002 GTI with 135k & I'm having an issue once in a while where if I go WOT the car will only boost up to about 5 (around there, don't remember) psi but if I let go and accelerate again, it'll boost normally again.
No lights or CEL comes on when it happens though. I tried searching for any info but not sure what direction to look at. I have a stock K03S, Forge DV, 3" Turboback, Short Ram Intake, FMIC. Bad N75 or DV?
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The car is an 02 gti. I am having problems at full boost(17 psi) where the car starts to stutter, backfire, and eventually drops to 5 psi. Throttle up to 15 psi is always smooth and there is no hesitation or misfires. It's chipped but I am unaware of which software as it was already on the car when purchased.
What I've done:
Checked for any leaks - none
Cleaned maf
Replaced plugs(0.028) and coils which was needed anyways
Coil harnesses look good
Fuel filter changed
I've read about the n75 but I am not experiencing any surge issues that many have described. I do believe the car is running a little rich because I can smell some fumes but it is very light. Car fires up just fine and idles smoothly.
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I suspected I had a vacuum leak somewhere, was told it wasn't likely. Just installed a tune in the evening drove it 15 miles was pretty sure I had one.
Installed Forge DV the next morning it was evident I had one by the sound the DV was Making. I checked the car head to toe and found two lines had broken apart. I replaced them will silicone lines and it appeared to be fixed.
Drove it 5 miles and the 'turkey sound' came back. (This is the sound that I originally heard and confirmed I had a vacuum leak somewhere)
I searched all over there car, had a second set of eyes that was mechanically inclined and we found nothing obviously causing a problem. We ended up just taking off the Forge DV and testing it by hand it held up and re installing it and securing it.
Strange enough that fixed the problem (no other hoses were tampered with while we were inspecting)
Drove the car home about 15 miles and stopped in a drive through. At some point while sitting something happened. Cause when I left the drive through then I noticed the car seemed to be lacking at low end, turned down the music and I could hear the turkey call. I left the car alone for the night. Thought maybe heat jas a factor in this. Drove it this morning and it was just how I left it. I inspected the hoses and found no change. I took the DV off and inspected then re installed. I noticed the turkey call was not as predominant but still completely present.
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I need replacement vacuum hose part for my GTI 337. The piece that is disconnected is the hose from the break booster to the intake manifold. It appears to be at a one way valve. I found a picture from a different DIY, that I have circled in green. The red arrow points to the place where it separated. I am not sure if this is a matter of me using a new clamp or buying a new piece of hose from advanced auto parts. The vacuum sets on ECS Tuning and it doesn't appear to be the correct set.
[URL].........
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As title states, I scanned my gti and got P0420 (nothing new here) and P1136. I did some searching and looks like vacuum leak can cause this, however I also read that it'll affect my idle. I replaced MAF 2 years ago with a brand new OEM one, my idle is NOT rough, at all.
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I just bought a 05 1.8T Jetta 116,000miles. and need diagnosing it. It misses all the time. Has new plugs I tried two other sets of coils (from my 2.0 a4 and my dads passat) and it made no difference. The SAI was taken out but nothing is blocked off. Also the coil pack wiring harness has cracks on the big brown wire where it goes down along the block. I'm getting these codes on my vag-com.
16687 cylinder 3 misfire
16686 cylinder 2 misfire
16688 cylinder 4 misfire
17766 cylinder 2 open ignition circuit
17763 cylinder 1 open ignition circuit
17769 cylinder 3 open ignition circuit
17772 cylinder 4 open ignition circuit
So am I correct in thinking that it's from the cracked harness? An not a vac leak?
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Okay I have a 2001 Vw Jetta 1.8t Wolfsberg.
I have done a few mods:
- Oil catch can
- Boost gauge
- New turbo (5000 miles old)
- Brake booster mod
- PCV system fixed and some hose deletes (that make the intake manifold have one line off of it rather than two)
- Timing belt/ pulleys
- Accessory belt / pulley
- A few other things but nothing to cause this
The car will do this randomly. And I mean once every two weeks of that. I will go to accelerate and the boost gauge says the "boost" is at zero and no matter how much I give it gas, it won't go past zero and stutters. But it stops almost as fast as it starts. I don't get it...
My catch can has 3/4" line to about 1/2" or so, that meets the oil catch can. (Ebay with the blue hose.) I have new plugs, all new (dealership recommended) lubes, all kinds of new small odds and ends. But it's never done this before. (3rd time now in a month..)
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This is kind of an odd ball problem since I have not encountered this before, but every time I turn my wheels full left or full right and start moving a really high pitched squeaking sound comes from the front of the car. Is it bad alignment or wear sensors on the brake pads rubbing? the brakes have a lot of pad left so i find that hard to believe.
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Recently purchased a brand new 2013 R. With ZERO mods on it and 5,000 miles, I flashed the car to UM Stage 1. Immediately after flash I get a noise that sounds like a metal clattering in first and second gear from about 2K to full boost. Happens most audibly when the car is cold but is subtly ever present when heated up.
When the noise occurs I feel as if I'm getting half boost or a very inconsistent boost curve. The boost then kicks in after the 3,500k(ish) threshold. On rare occasions, the car will warm up and run exactly as I would expect it too. 1st, 2nd, 3rd all boost very evenly and strong from 0k and beyond with no noise and the car is amazing to drive.
To try and diagnose the issue, I flashed it back to stock and the noise disappears though I can still feel it not boosting consistently. I took it to the dealer (stock) and they said the didn't notice or couldn't hear anything which was what I expected. I'm guessing it is something the with wastegate but I don't know enough to say with any confidence.
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I installed a VF intake a few weeks back and noticed my car is peaking at around 14-15 PSI max according to my boost gauge, when it used to hit 17 peak. I'm not sure if I may have a leak nor have I checked it via vag-com.
It does feel a bit off, but for as far as I know the gauge could be messed up now.
Just wondering if there would be any immediate signs (sounds etc...) of whether there would be a leak, or what other problems may cause this.
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Ok here is my question. I've noticed the power on my car has felt inconsistant for the last little while. I finally got around to logging the car and my boost peaks at mid 20's just over 3000 RPM and then drops fast to between 13-15 psi before I even get to 5000 RPM.
Under full boost I hear a low fluttering sound like the diverter valve opening and closing when this is happening. I also don't get the typical diverter valve sound when shifting when the car is doing this.
I took my diverter valve out and inspected it. I can pushing the piston up very easily with almost no resistance, is that normal? I would think that it should be hard to push the piston up if not wouldn't boost pressure be able to overcome the piston and leak past?
My mods are. HPA tune, HPA catted down pipe, and VWR intake.
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Just purchased a 01 golf 1.8t 5spd and noticed it has a small coolant leak.. Left parking over 2 days in the same spot and it builds up a little puddle.. It's dripping down off of my oil pan and I haven't been able to trace it back to where the leak is coming from..
I've been told it could be my water pump? The car has 92k miles.
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I have an '02 Elantra GT with ~175,000 miles.
CEL is on, gives code about evaporative emissions control system, P0441. Shop manual says a)Purge control solenoid valve or b) vacuum leak.
Symptoms are very rough idle, strong smell of gas at startup, erratic, racing idle when starting or cruising to a stop in neutral.
Replaced PCSV, didn't WORK. Went looking for vacuum leak. Seems to be at the fuel injector that's on the end, passenger side, on the manifold side. There's a noticeable hiss, and when I spray gumout at the injector it changes idle. Replaced the injector O-rings. Didn't make a difference. What next?
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So.... here's my issue. I have a 2001 supercrew 5.4 and runs great all day long, no problem starting or anything. After I have driven it for a while and turn the AC on it cools off very good then after about a 1/2hr. the truck tries to stall. It almost sounds like a vacuum leak and really bogs down. I can wait about 2hrs and then with the AC off the truck starts and drives like it should. I am steering to the IAC valve but would like to know if this is it.
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Recently bought a MKV R32. Already had a magnaflow cbe, k&n panel filter, and some emissions stuff taken out from under the hood. not sure if it has been flashed, waiting to get a vagcom. think it is pretty stock other than that. My problem is about 2 weeks after I got it, I started to notice an exhaust leak or vacuum leak or both at higher RPMs, like above 3 or 4k it starts. The exhaust has a nice deep rumble in normal driving but when the leak noises start that is all you hear, the exhaust note disappears completely. I have tightened the clamps on the cbe and still does it. Not sure what to look for.
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I have a vacuum leak on the driver side seal on the changeover rod in the intake manifold. It was replaced recently at the dealer and now has another hole in it. I was told this is caused by oil in the lines and my pcv valve is bad.
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Car: 2011 VW GTI MkVI
Mileage: 79k
Configuration: Stock
Warranty/Coverage: None
So I started my car last Monday and the check engine light was on. Didn't think much of it because the car ran fine and there were no immediate symptoms. I was busy with work this week, but noticed some changes in the car's performance over time so I waited till Thursday to have it scanned at AutoZone, which threw the following codes:
P 300 Definition: Random Engine Misfire
Explanation: Lean air/fuel ratio
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
P 302 Definition: Cylinder 2 Misfire
Explanation: Vacuum leak on engine
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
P 303 Definition: Cylinder 3 Misfire
Explanation: Vacuum leak on engine
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
Prior to making any purchases I noticed that I started losing some pickup, primarily in lower gears between 2-3k RPM's. Praying that it was somehow just the coils/plugs I bought the R8 pack for both and replaced them this evening. Engine starts up and continues to misfire. I have not had a chance to have it scanned but it would appear it isn't the plugs or coils.
When the plugs were removed, there was an 'oily' substance on the threads, which also seemed like it could have been burnt off fuel or oil pushed up from the cylinder. Also 2 of the plugs seemed looser than the others and didn't feel properly sealed. New R8 install included proper plugs for STOCK application, as I do not run any tuning, and i installed with the appropriate plug grease added lightly to the threads.
I took the car for a spin with the R8 coils/plugs installed to compare it to how the car was doing prior the install. Car misfires and seems fine (relatively) at idle and revving to 2-3k rpm yields NO change. It is almost unable to accelerate up a hill, or go past 30 MPH without the car shaking and any gear higher than 3rd seems not drivable. I feel these are my potential diagnoses before i bring it somewhere and have it looked at.
In Order of Most Likely:
1) Fuel Injectors
2) Air Intake
3) High Pressure Fuel Pump
4) Electronic Leads for the Coils
5) Battery Needs Changed
6) Chain Tensioner Failure
7) Coils and Sparks are all Bad, and I am an idiot
I would prefer to do this work myself and can afford the parts. I just didn't want to be fooling around all month without a mode of transportation to get to and from work.
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Having problem on mrk 6, sounds almost like a high pitched vacuum leak but I can't find it.
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