Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 1.8T Does Not Stay On / Stalls Out On Cold Start
May 12, 2013
When the weather gets cold, (lower than 45 deg. F) my Jetta does not want to stay running. It turns over and starts just fine but it does not like to stay on. When I turn the key to the #2 position I can hear the fuel pump fire up and pressurize the system. I always attempt to start it after that, and after 1-2 seconds of running, it seems like it chokes itself out. I have the new coolant temp. sensor (green top), my MAF has been replaced, all spark plugs are new with the correct gap (approx. .030"), new air filter, I run 93 octane fuel.
The worst part is, once the car is warmed up (After forcing it fuel and starting it over, and over, and over again) it runs awesome! I have had this problem since I bought the car (about 2 years ago). The owner told me about it and mentioned that he has never been able to figure it out either (trips to the dealer included). I have been dealing with it for 2 years, but it is getting much worse. Over the past 2 days I have not been able to get my car to stay on long enough to get it to move.
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I have a 2001 jetta 1.8 turbo. when I turn the car off the cooling fans stay on and kill my battery. Ive been told it could either be a relay or temp sending unit but i dont know what one to tackle first, also my coolent temp stays way low almost as if the thermostat is stuck open.
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This has been happening for awhile now, but whenever the gas gets to 1/4 tank and below (about 2 ticks from the red tick on the gauge) the car will stall for about 3 seconds then come back to life. If it happens while I'm stopped it will completely die and I'll have to restart it.
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So up until a couple months ago my car was running fine. We drove to Vegas and everything was good, then on the way home from the car show, I put some cr@ppy 87 in and about an hour out of town I was going 80 on cruise and it bogged all the way out and came back when I hit like 60. Put some 91 in when I got to the next town and car stopped bogging out after every 5-10 miles.
I got home and read my codes. I've got a secondary air injection issue which has been going on for awhile. Also had a cam position sensor which I fixed.
Now I was driving my car the other day, I drove it til it was all the way warm and then when the clutch gets pushed in and around 1k rpms it stalls. I started it back up with my foot on the floor to get it back going. Right down the street I stop at a stop light and it stalls again and won't start. Had to push it to a gas station and leave it for a couple of hours to wait for it to cool way down to start back up. Was running like cr@p at first, but I made it home.
I had initially thought I needed a new fuel filter as well as a new fuel pump. Heard that it could also be a crank position sensor?
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The car starts well every time even though the revs go up then down for just two seconds before stabilizing at normal rev count. Sometimes while driving the car would just stall and loose power even though my foot will still be on the accelerator, if I pump the accelerator it will wake up and move on nicely like nothing ever happened. I've had this problem for the past two months now and it happens atleast 5 - 6 times a week randomly. the problems is beginning to get worse. The car has an automatic transmission. I've changed the fuel filter and air filter only in the last 20000kms. the MAF is ok because when i unplug it the car switches off and won't start again. every time i open the hood and rev the car a bit i can hear what sem to be huge suction of air somewhere next to the throttle body.
2011 Golf mk4, 1.8L...
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I have a 01 vw bora 1.8t and recently I let it sit for one day and now it has trouble starting when it's cold and when it does start it has a very rough idle and often stalls out of you try and press the gas. Once it has warmed up she runs fine. My check engine light is on but I have no way to take her down to a shop to get the codes read. What is wrong with my car? One of my friends told me it could be a cool pack or a sensor.
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I have an '01 gti glx that I just swapped a motor into. I got the motor out of an '01 jetta glx, exact match AFP engine code.
I get cylinder 2 misfires mostly (high number) but I also get 5 and 6 intermittently as well as a P0300 code.
Sometimes I also need to hold the gas down just to get it to start even after the crank sensor.
The engine idles sometimes at 600 rpm but drops and nearly stalls after revving at all.
What I've tried so far:
working cam sensor from my old vr
brand new crank sensor
brand ned wires/plugs
new fuel filter
swapped injectors of misfiring cylinders from old motor
lined up the timing 3 times now and its still perfect
I know the coil pack works because it was on my old motor, which ran fine, just leaked oil.
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Recently my 01 Jetta 1.8T has started to not start like it should. Say every 4th or 5th start it cranks and cranks, I see the tach eventually flick a couple of times and then it finally fires up. It's also stalled while I'm driving, say when I stop at a light but will usually start up again ok.
After the not so good start I get the impression the car is kind of surging while driving - like a fuel supply issue although maybe the fuel pump has nothing to do with supply after starting?
So anyway my thought is perhaps fuel pump issue? I decided to try and search for my issue or fuel pump issues but it talks about things that happen when you open the drivers door which in my case isn't working properly (i.e., I believe it is a DLM as my windows sometimes all go down and I don't get any chime or door light when the door opens).
So just wondering if based on what I'm experiencing if fuel pump sounds likely and perhaps what further tests I should run. My battery is new and the engine does crank pretty good if that eliminate it. I guess I should be thinking fuel filter perhaps also.
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2001 vw cabrio 2.0 .. The car starts and stalls BUT only if you give it gas. I replaced the throttle body and did the throttle body alignment using vas-pc , no problems at idle but as soon as i give i gas it dies, and it seems to die quicker at higher temperatures. When it dies i get codes P0121 and P1570 i clear the code , do the alignment , and same thing happens over again. I also replaced distributor , crank sensor, maf sensor , spark plugs, wires , rotor, tried different pcm reprogrammed, no vacuum leaks, the only thing i can think of now is the ecm relay? but its missing so is it using the fuel pump relay ?
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We just brought a 2000 S70 Volvo 5 cyl. sadan. There is a problem when we start it up. Initially it starts up fine, but when you put it into drive, the rpms do not stay constant enough to keep the engine from stalling out. When you restart it, the problem repeats and repeats about five or six times, until the problem corrects itself. If in an effort to increase the rmps by applying the gas pedal, the problem may cease, but not always. Once the rpms remain constant, there are no longer any problems with the engine.
This problem is not a constant. It mostly happens when the engine is cold, but it can also happen when the car has been running and then turned off. When you turn on the warmed up engine, the problem happens again. Because we anticipate the repairs on a Volvo are likely to be expensive, we would like to have an idea of what could cause this problem and an anticipated cost.
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'01 Jetta IV GLS AC not blowing cold air:
1. Blower works on all 1,2,3,4 settings
2. Cabin Air Filter Clean
3. When AC button pressed, I see the Compressor turns and noted the clutch also engaged.
4. AC Fan near Radiator comes on
5. Blend Door seems to be working fine - fixed the problem of spitting foam without opening up the heater box.
6. Since the above electrical parts seem to be working, I suppose it could not be a relay issue.
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My ac stopped blowing cold. The compressor turns on when I turn the ac on. When I pressure tested the low line port, it showed it was too high to add any recharge. 2001 jetta wolfsburg 1.8t....
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So I'm trying to figure out the issue with my girls car, upon cold start sometimes a cloud of white smoke will come out of the tail pipe but not all the times, sometimes the oil level slowly drops but again not all the time, coolant doesn't look mixed but I'm not 100% sure. The car is the pzev 2.0.
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I have a mkiv and before I got to work in the morning, I warm up my car for about 10 min. When I start it up the belt squeals. I do believe that it only does it in the morning. Should I have it checked out? i put belt dressing on it last night but it squealed when i started it up this morning so I don't think that worked......
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Strange question but is there a way to have the engine start up in this mode every time its started?
Just wondering for show purposes trying to make a video, as my GTI has a big ass cam and sounds evil in cold start mode and doesn't have that opportunity as its 90-100 degrees here all the damn time...
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Okay so my 2003 Jetta GLI normally starts without a problem. But it seems like whenever it gets cold (below about 40) it doesn't even try to start. I turn the key and nothing happens, the engine doesn't crank. All the lights turn on like normal and they're not dim so I don't think it's the battery. It'll still start if I roll-start it, but there isn't any sort of hill for a few miles. Normally once it warms up later in the day it'll start up.
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So my new problem is cold engine starts If it's mildly cold out like 30-40 F or 0-10C and has been sitting awhile the car won't start on the first couple of tries. It tries to start but I guess chokes/sputters out like its not getting enough gas. Warm engine it starts instantly.
I put a bottle of gumout regane fuel system cleaner in the tank hoping its a dirty fuel system seeing it feels like it chokes out on gas during the cold start. I'm about half way done that tank and was going to add another bottle on the next tank.
I'm worried about the cold winter approaching and found out issue 8001 today that the oil pan heater is ripped off with broken wires and missing cover.
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I have a 2003 Jetta. It runs great until it just stalls out with no warning. There doesn't seem to be any particular thing I do to make it stall. I could be accelerating onto the highway, just driving down a residential street, moving along at 60 mph, or just starting out of the parking lot. It happens when it is cold and when it is hot. It could happen twice in one day and then not for two weeks. I have taken it to the dealer, a VW specialist, an excellent auto electric specialist, and the local mechanic. No one can figure it out. I have so far replaced the fuel pump, ignition wires, distributor, several engine sensors, complete tune-up, all filters, battery, and some misc wires and hoses. All told, I have spent over $3000. replacing stuff and trying to cure this car's ills. The dealer could not get it to duplicate the stalling. No codes have shown up at the VW dealer, the local guy, and Autozone. The auto electric guy drove it over 100 miles on one week with no problem, then it stalled on him. He immediately hooked it up to the diagnostic machine....and no codes! He was perplexed.
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Is this a warm stall issue and if so what is the actual solution to it ?
- Car is warm it will stall out at times after start . Giving it some gas will save it from stalling
- When dead cold it will have a very sluggish start
New plugs and coils. New fuel pump fuel filter & regulator . New crank sensor . Throttle body cleaned as well as maf. evap leaks all sealed up too. battery is good too
Very frustrating. Only solution would be to leave it at a shop for at least two hours so they could do live scans. But I'd rather not pay two hours of labor for nothing.
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I am having an issue with my 2002 GTI 1.8T. I have tried searching for an answer to this, and found a couple things saying maybe it could be the secondary air pump but wanted to get more opinions before I go shell out money to chase this problem.
When I start up the car in the morning after having it sit overnight, the car does the normal thing where it increases rpm's to about 1100 to warm it up. During this a loud "whistling" noise can be heard. Once the car is warmed up a little bit, the rpm's decline to about 900, and the whistling sound goes away. When this happens though it almost sounds as if a valve or something is closing causing the noise to go away.
Also, I am unsure if this is related to this, sometimes when I am driving, I will be accelerating and the car seems to stop accelerating as strong as it was, boost goes down from around 8 or 9 psi to about 4 and I seem to lose power as if I had let off the gas some. When I put my foot further down the car accelerates harder again and boost goes back up.
I have already changed spark plugs, cleaned MAF sensor, and run the 3m 3 part engine cleaning kit through it.
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not sure if this is normal or not. usually ONLY comes when I turn my car on for the first time of the day. (cold start obviously, keep in mind its cold where i live at this time of year), there is a weird whistling like sound. goes away when the rpm gauge hits 10/ after 1 minute of the engine running. at odd times it will come on again after leaving the car off for a few hours, after work for example. I was told it because I'm using the wrong coolant??
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