I have a vw jetta 2000 and U checked the check engine light fuse. Just took it out and put it back in. Now the car wont start, it maybe the security ignition cut-out ? Can I reset it myself, or do I have to take it to the dealer?
View 16 RepliesI own a 2002 Jetta 1.8T now here is my story.
A week ago whiles driving lost power when accelerating, EPC light illuminates so I turned on my hazard light and limped home since I was far away from home. As I limped home, all the lights on the dash went off. I got home, shut engine off, restarted the car but car wont accelerate.
I popped the hood and saw the dreaded melted fuse box on top of battery with charred alternator cable. I ordered the fuse box and alternator cable and prepared to replace them.
I realized that with the driver side door open with no key in ignition, I could hear a clicking sound with inside lights blinking. Didn't worry because I believed it had to do with the melted fuse box and charred alternator cable. I noticed that the clock was off too.
I replaced.the fuse box and alternator cable. My battery is just a year old so when I tried starting the car and it won't crank, I tried to jump start it but no sound. Car won't start. Dead silence,no click nothing.
The check engine light came on in my 2000 Jetta and the engine power suddenly decreased noticeably. Got worse quickly and was idling rough, like it was about to stall out (but didn't). Took it to dealership, they said spark plugs were the problem and replaced. All seemed normal driving home, but after 10 minutes, same problem: check engine flashing, weak engine (trouble on hills), and a rough idle.
Two questions: what could it be?
and is it safe to drive back to dealership (~10 miles) or might that cause further damage?
Have a 2000 1.8t Jetta that turns over but won't start, What I should be looking into?
View 2 RepliesI just bought this car in it's current state. I got a really good deal on it so I wasn't too concerned that it wouldn't start. And I did a compression test before I bought it which had really good results.
It's starting up pretty effortlessly. and its really consistent how it goes up to 2000, and then dies. I though it might be the immobilizer but the light turns off like it should.
The previous owner claims it was rebuilt 40k miles ago professionally. I think I believe it. the car has 210,000 miles and 190 psi compression.
It also has a bunch of preventative maintenance done to it. waterpump, timing belt, thermostat, clutch, lightweight flywheel. What it could be? it's got to be something simple. I'm pretty sure this engine is nearly flawless
Over the past few weeks my 2000 Jetta GL has been occasionally been grinding on start up. The car starts fine, but it sounds like the starter doesn't realize that the engine is running and it makes that oh so lovely grinding noise for an additional half a second or so. It doesn't do it every time, just when it feels like being ornery. Is the starter going, or what?
View 4 Replies2000 GTI MK4 200,000 miles
I have had a grinding noise during engine start up for a few month but had no problem is engine starting up so left the grinding noise problem untouched.
About two days ago both lowbeam headlights blew up and left signal blinker on headlight lamp cluster didn't turn on while rear left blinker blinked at twice faster speed. At the same time I began to have starter motor stall while starting up the engine!
Wonder if this is a problem involving solenoid as well.
This noise happens usually on the first startup of the day, but it can happen at least 2 or 3 times a day randomly. I am not great with cars but if i had to guess it sounds like a belt is to tight or its a electrical problem but i have no clue. I attached a video of the noise for better in site. Apart from all the looks i get when i start my car up I'm just afraid my engine is gonna blow up on me randomly. The car is a 2000 vw golf automatic.
View 7 RepliesI recently bought a 2000 Golf VR6 and I've noticed that my fan to the radiator stays in way too long and think it might be draining my battery. I don't even have to start the engine, once I put my key in the fan starts going. I'm getting really annoyed of having to take the out the fuse to get it to turn off. The battery is brand new so I don't think that's the problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a jetta that sat inside for 3 months. and when i went to start it it ran great but when i went to restart after shutting it off it wouldn't restart until I disconnected the battery for a few min and reconnected it , and that is when the check eng light came on the car runs great but having to disconnect the battery each time so I also took it to get the codes read and this is what i got po725, p1780, p1850, po605, po113, po102. I find these codes to be well to say it is a little unbelievable as the car runs fine and i had no trouble before i parked it for 3months. The car only has 58,000 miles on it ?
View 4 RepliesI own a 2000 Jetta VR6 5 speed. Car has over 300,xxxkm on it, with documented maintenance including chains within the past 12k. Car has intake, 2.5" resonated exhaust, stock software.
I have recently noticed that the car has a cold start issue. Its winter here in Canada, so in the morning when i go to start the car and let it warm up for a couple minutes, the idle is choppy at first and then evens out at around 900-1k rpm. If i try to blip the throttle, or even hold it (half way or WOT) the car just wants to bog out, EXTREMELY rough idle. It will eventually, after about 2 mins of idling, go away and i can drive.
I have absolutely no issue with allowing the car to idle for a few mins to warm up, but i know for a fact that whether a car is cold or not, it should be able to rev freely.
I also have horrible fuel milage. I use 91 octane, and average about 250-300km per tank. 70% city 30% hwy driving.
The following parts have been replaced in the past 1200 to try and resolve the issue
OE Mass air flow sensor
OE spark plugs
BREMI wires
OE Bosch front O2 sensor
I have scanned the car several times, which led me to change the parts i did. Only had a CEL once and it was for the front O2 sensor which i just replaced. Any other codes were for random multiple and a cat efficiency fault. Again those were fault found off a GFF test done at VW, they were not enough to trigger a CEL, but i still changed the parts.
My wife drove the car to work, and it ran good. She got a check engine light, but it was not on when I got home from work. I started the car and it idled fine for a couple of minutes and then it stalled. I check the codes and there was nothing locked in. There was a pending coding P0321. I am not sure what a pending code is, but I assume not enough to trigger the check engine light.
After work each night this week I tried troubleshooting but I have not gotten anything accomplished. Each night the car would start fine but if I turned it off it would not start until many tries if at all. It turns over strong but won't start. I drove it around the neighborhood today and it stalled and wouldn't restart.
The fuel pump primes. When the car won't start the fuel pump relay clicks constantly. Is this normal? I replaced the fuel filter because it has been 50k miles. Is the crank shaft sensor the problem? I hate to throw money at parts that aren't the problem when I can't get a code to trip the check engine light.
Having trouble with my '00 Jetta 2.0 A/T w/ 98K miles. Had the water pump replaced @ a year ago (for the 2nd time, the 1st replacement died after <15K miles.) The car has had issues with rough idle when started, especially with a cold engine, since before the 2nd water pump. I've replaced the coil pack, thermostat, and coolant temperature sensor in the recent past in addition to the water pump & timing belt.
The gas mileage sucks, and when it's idling rough it doesn't "idle up", & will stall if the gas pedal is pressed with 30 secs. of starting. Otherwise it seems to run fine. The coolant temp. sensor was replaced after a CEL indicating it was bad. The CEL went off after it was replaced, but it's now throwing a P1296 Cooling System Malfunction. I have noticed the temperature gauge fluctuates instead of staying around the "middle" since the 2nd water pump replacement, and will run "colder" in colder weather. Since spring is here, the temp. gauge stays around "normal", or the middle.
Some research online says thermostat OR coolant temperature sensor. Since the gauge registers normal now, I'm leaning towards a bad temp. sensor...?
Does the hard start/rough idle and the cooling system malfunction CEL could be related?
I got 2000 tdi with 270000km on it and have a few issues with it and am looking for some information before i start doing some work to it.
First problem excessive blue smoke on start up also runs ruff tell it warms up.
Second the is a screeching noise on start up some times. happens most of the time when the car is cold.
Third sounds like something is dragging or rattling but i have checked and there is i can see.
Fourth when the clutch is in and the brake is on the car runs ruff at idle. i think it has something to do with vacuum used for the brake booster but not sure.
So... have a 2010 Prius V, about 80,000 miles.
Tried to start it this morning and got a "Check Hybrid System". No start. Brought it to the local Toyota mega dealer here in Lakeland, FL. (They were pretty organized and on things, so I was pretty impressed.)
Anyway, just got a call back and it's a junction block fuse that was blown. Questions I have are
1) What is this a fuse for? The actual hybrid battery?
2) Where is it located, and
3) (the EE in me) Doesn't something usually cause this fuse to blow?
Dealer will attempt to replace fuse and drive it around to see if it's fixed, but something typically causes fuses to blow.
On my MKIV Jetta the wire going to S177 is getting super hot an melting my fuse box, an I am talking from the time I start my car to pop my hood the fuse box cover will burn your hand. I used a voltage meter an it reads 14v but the wire running from the fuse box to the alt gets super hot, an it only gets hot on the side of the fuse box. Could it be a bad alt?
View 24 Replies02 JettaVr6 auto tranny- car was running perfect, no CEL. Now all of a sudden the fuse keeps blowing out- what exactly is running off this fuse?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Jetta Wagon 1.8 t I got pulled over the other day for no brake lights, and I figured it was just a fuse, but I had a look and it isn't that. the middle light thing in the top of the window comes on, so I know the switch works. (is is mechanical on the pedal, or hydraulic pressure?) Both taillights come on, but neither brake light. What's going on here?
View 11 RepliesMy daughter's 2004 Jetta GL 2.0L has had a second occurrence where the fuse box on top of battery gets melted and damages fuse & wires. Last time I had the whole box, Alternator wire, fuses replaced and now it happens again. What's causing this to happen? I have read a few searched threads on this problem, but now one has stated a cure to this problem. Only suggestions to change the parts. This second occurrence has caused a slew of electrical problems and CEL's to pop up. including ABS, cooling/fan & a/c problems.
View 4 RepliesFirst of all, its not a faulty brake light switch. I just found out that my rear brake lights have been out. I went to check the fuse and it was blown. I've replaced it but the second i touch the brake pedal, it pops again. Things I've tried...
I checked the wiring for any exposed wiring and i didn't find anything.
I disconnected the entire light assembly from the connectors on both sides and the fuse still blew.
I'm suspecting a bad ground, (as there was a point when the lights would work, even when i touched the pedal, but as soon as i pop the trunk open, the fuse would blow.
Where the lights are grounded? Is there anything else i should check?
Pics for views....
Can't find a solid answer. But where to put your fuse box after relocating your battery? Don't wanna just have it chillen there when I move the battery.
View 9 Replies