Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 - What To Do While Installing Tranny
Jun 3, 2014
I just picked up a 2000 VR6 golf a few weeks ago. been doing lots and lots of reading. It needs a transmission and was wondering what other things should I do why tranny is out of the way. I know some things can either only be done with tranny out or are a hell of a lot easier with it out of way. So what are your recommendations. Looking to pick up a tranny and get this bad boy on the road asap. Car ran great no issues or sounds my buddie just shifted to 3rd on highway and something walked loose in tranny and kaboom she went.
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So i have been looking to get some new headlights with the projector housing but noticed that most of them have a fog light which my car does not have. I know in order to get them to work properly i would need the euro switch, but would i need to run additional wires through the firewall?
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There is only one DIY i can find that is still alive. I have a megan short shifter. Its already half way in. I just don't have any instructions and i am kind of at a loss as to where i go from here. Does this shifter change the way my reverse gear will be engaged? I mean will i need to pull the trigger up to go in reverse or will i still push down? Does the spring that came with the kit go under the sleeve or above it? Sounds confusing.
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How to install rivets to the subframe and rails of the car I can't figure it out to save my life and it just says to put the ecs bolt and but rivet installer but it literally does nothing the rivet literally slides in and out am I missing something.
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I'm looking at some wheels and the specs are 18x9.5 with 35mm offset, will it poke out or no? I can get them staggered but I would rather not?
Car is a 02 Tdi Golf 4 Door
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I have an 02 Jetta the the left CV Axle came loose from the tranny/axle flange. I checked the Bentley and it shows that a bolt holds the flange on, I guess a spline. My question when taking one off, is there anything inside that will drop/pop off when I pull it? The reason I need to take it off is that some of the bolts actually broke off, while others screwed their way out. Not sure why they came out or what made the others break but they did. It would be so much easier to get the broken bolts out with the flange out.
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This weekend I replaced the transmission in my 2000 12v vr6 5 speed golf. Got In drive around block going through each gear all seemed fine. Then I tried reverse and couldnt find it. Seem like it reverse was more like 5th cause car would try and move forward. I have the new style shifter and the bearing is quite a bit beat up. However if I in engine bay operating the gears directly on shift paddle I still can't seem to find reverse. Is there some kind of lock out or what could I be missing. I tried adjusting the cables but that seemed to make things worse not better.
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I have a 05 1.8t jetta wagon , my transmission went out and it wouldnt grab it would be revving at 5k and 6k going about 20 mph then when i turn it on again, it worked fine but it was switching gear on time but very rough what could the problem be?
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I am installing a used tranny in the ranger. According to the salvage yard the tranny fluid and filter was removed and fluid drained from the torque converter. How am I supposed to fill the torque converter?
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I'm getting a remote start system for Christmas and I'm looking at how to do the install myself. I know you need a bypass and an extra programmed key for the system to work. This is my problem, My car only came with one switchblade key so I would have to get one made. Basically if I do an immo defeat on my ecu which is tuned (not sure which company a po did it), will I be able to do the remote start without having to use a bypass and spare. Essentially if I do an immo defeat, in order to start the car they key would not have to be programmed, just laser cut, correct? Is it possible to do an immo defeat with vagcom or do I have to get a tuning company to do it. The car is an 01' gti AWW for reference. I'm planning on going gonzo stage 2+ in the Spring so I'm thinking about just waiting until then and getting the immo defeated with that, if it works with the remote start.
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So I recently got this GTi and I was wondering what steps I should take before putting a bigger turbo on this car and the steps I should take when putting a bigger turbo. What should I do first be for considering a new turbo?
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Okay so I bought this car and a week later tranny wouldn't shift out of first when I would slow down or at least it would take a min. I would hit 4or 5 grand then it would jolt me back. It wouldn't do it every time though. I bought it to go to college drove it the 900 miles on the highway and had no problems except right before I left town but then fine. All I did was change the tranny fluid before I left which I can confidently say I don't think has been changed before that. stunk bad bud no metal.
Alright now I'll go jump in the car to go to class and it will not leave first. If I put it in the manual mode it thinks it's in third but clearly if in doing 15 mph at 4000 rpm that's not the case. It doesn't do it every time. Kinda hit or miss. After driving for a min it usually shifts. Sometimes I make it the two miles without it shifting though. Also sometimes It will shift but once I slow down it won't shift out of first again.
I have seen a code for torque management since I bought the car. The check engine light is on now but I haven't seen the torque code since I change the MassES. that's not to say it's not still there. I used a different handheld computer for the check engine light the last time I did it and I could have missed it because I was unfamiliar with it. I have put a mass airflow sensor, battery, alternator, and changed the tranny fluid since I have owned the car. drained 3L of tranny fluid and put 3L back in. Oh and the last time I checked the light it said lean in bank 1 but I was assuming that was an unrelated issue.
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So I just had my transmission replaced because my cv axle popped loose and tore a hole right into my old one spilling all the tranny oil all over the road. I was able to find another used one and then bolt it up and now I have a small issue. Its been leaking a little bit of tranny oil through the one piece on the bottom that has two bolts on it and a VW logo on it.
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So long story short, last week I destroyed my first gear in the tranny. This weekend I did the complete swap and put a used o2j in. 5 speed. 2.0 motor.
Right after the swap, on the first startup I noticed the clutch felt softer. The grip is also a little less than it used to be.
Right before my transmission blew I upgraded from 15" alloys to 17" longbeaches with spacers all around- much heavier. It happened on my first drive with the new rims so I didn't get to feel the car much.
I reused my current slave cylinder. Did not disconnect it from the line while swapping. I did however notice my slave boot had a small little dent in it (super small) but no tears or anything. Also, reinstalling it i pushed it in and compressed the boot and secured it with the bolts - I hope I did this right.
I redid my rear brakes about a month ago, did not disconnect brake lines or bleed the system.
I have already driven about 50km on the new tranny. Today I am getting the tranny service (flush) done because I didn't have the sockets to check it after install. I'm going to ask the mechanic if he might know anything. The brakes also feel a touch less but I'm not sure if this is cause of the 17" wheels.. does the system just need to be bled?
All gears go in smooth - clutch in.
All gears go in smooth with car off.
No grinding of gears when switching or driving.
No reverse grind.
No slipping in any gears.
Just a soft pedal and feels like softer bite. I did the tranny swap in a rush, did not replace fork, TOB or anything. They should all be fine, I'm thinking it's just air but need confirmation. I just want this car to last another year or so..
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2001 MK4 GTI VR6 put brand new coil pack, wires and plugs in the car because it was misfiring. Was fine for about a week than I got a clogged cat code and could feel the affects. I now have no cat, no resonator, and no muffler. The car is finally driving good and then the check engine light came back. It says only a misfire in Cylinder #3 and when accelerate hard to speed up my check engine light starts to blink until I stop accelerating hard. So my guess is the clogged cat caused that cylinder to misfire but I do not know the actual solution to this. My EVAP hose is semi-pinched and when u squeeze it you can almost kill the engine. The weirdest thing of all is this: driving normal I shift in between 2000 and 3000 RPM and once i get into 4th gear about 2000 RPM......my car starts shaking badly and i feel like my engine is going to fall out. I have searched and the only thing i can think of is a bad injector...
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Okay I have a 2000 Jetta GLS VR6. I had the engine replaced after i found out the block was cracked when replacing the heater core. ever since it was replaced the car runs great but it keeps throwing these 4 codes.
p1424 secondary air injection system bank 1 leak detected -intermittent
p0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected
p1603 internal control module failed self test -intermittent
p0134 02 sensor bank 1 sensor no1 no activity -intermittent
The thing that is bugging me is that the sai pump is still running. On cold start it literally sounds like a Dyson vacuum. What i should try.
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I'm looking at buying a 00 jetta vr6,the couple who owns it claims it never came on before they parked it, but after not running for around 3 months it started again. Idles fine, starts on the first crank, no strange noises coming from it, bogs down around 2200 rpm?
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2000 golf glx VR[IMG][/IMG]
Epc light is on going down the list of things it can be. Should this be closed all the way while car is off. And if it is then is it closed all the way in the picture?
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I have a 2000 jetta 2.0 124k automatic I want to know how hard would it be going from gas to diesel? And also what would I need to do to get started.
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I have also owned a 2001 hyundai accent for almost 6 years now. This is the vehicle I drive to and from work. Today I was pulling off the on ramp onto the interstate and when I shifted to fifth-year it took for a few seconds and then all of a sudden I had absolutely no pull in 5th gear. There was a small pop sound but I can't be too sure exactly what it sounded like. And there is a really bad rattle from the tranny whenever the car is running 2000 RPM in fifth gear any higher than that then there's no noise at all and no pull. The RPMs just go up as if you're revving the car in neutral. I just wanted to know if that pretty much tells me that fifth gear is gone and I need to replace the transmission or have it rebuilt.
My other question is I've been looking up on the Internet to find a replacement transmission and so far I found out that for the 1.6 L if my car was made after March 8, 2001 that it requires a different transmission. But my car was built in September 2000 and I was wondering if the manual transmission was the same on the 1.5 L and the 1.6 L.
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I came out of work to see a fair amount of fluid on the ground under my excursion (2000 limited 7.3l 4x4). So I checked my fluids and found the coolant low and all the other fluids were good,. I had some in the excursion (not sure why I had it but it was there ). Filled it as much as I could started the truck and there it was a pretty big leak from my water pump. I was able to get one (new one lifetime warranty from an auto parts place, Ford was closed) so now on my day off instead of relaxing I will be installing a water pump. I guess it was about time. I figured since I was there I might as well flush the system. How many gallons of coolant this will take to refill the whole system?
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