Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 - Way To Install CV Axle?
Jul 21, 2015
I am stuck in the process of replacing a driver side CV axle on a 2000 Jetta VR6 automatic. I followed a Youtube video that may have misguided me. I removed the ball joint connection to take out the axle. (I will need a alignment after all this.) I was able to take out the old cv axle, but unable to put the new one on. While taking out the old one, the strut sank 2 inches. I then disconnected the suspension from the braking system, so it would be lighter and easier to push the strut up. However, it will not budge upwards. Do I need to compress the spring? How to move the strut up?
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I am replacing the mid and rear (suitcase) mufflers on my daughter's 2001 2.0L Jetta wagon. She is not interested in anything that would be louder than stock. What I am seeing is that the rear axle needs to be dropped to remove / install the rear muffler. Can this be correct? I know I can continue to cut off parts of the old muffler but that does me no good when it comes to install the new unit.
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I am doing the coilover install this weekend and plan to remove the axles. Is there a way of removing the axles, without buying and using a puller?
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Got the stud conversion kit from ecs couple weeks ago and got them installed. I'm not sure if the engineers that designed these cars sat down in a room and decided that they were going to produce these car in such a way that it causes to work hard on unless your vw themselves. (Marketing may have played a roll) But If you have a German car with stupid ass wheel bolts you know how annoying it can be wasting time doing a simple task so get this kit. One of the best things I've purchased to make working on the car a lot smoother.
Get them hand tight. I used red loctite for high temp. Didn't take a pic of it since I decided to do this near the end. Tighten bolts together so the second one doesn't spin. Tighten em down. Tight! Rear. Longer for wider spacers. Never have a hard time pulling wheels off and putting them on again.
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This previous weekend, my buddies and I finally got my FK coilovers installed on my GTI. I have heard that people say there is a little bit of rattling upon them getting properly seated. Well it has been 4 days of driving and now sounds like the rattling has gotten worse! I took it into a local suspension shop and they couldn't put a thumb on it. We in-turn found out that my rear hub bearing was going out and has since been replace. Having issues with coilovers? I have contacted the company that I purchased them through already and am awaiting feedback from them.
Pic of the car in question. (Before coilovers)...
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Installed some shifter cable bushings. But now reverse is harder to get to. Instead of just pushing it down and left for reverse.. Now I have to tilt the shift know slightly towards 4th gear then push down and go left and the gate seems so much smaller now. Overall it doesn't feel that much better than stock. what could i have done wrong?
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I have an 02 Jetta the the left CV Axle came loose from the tranny/axle flange. I checked the Bentley and it shows that a bolt holds the flange on, I guess a spline. My question when taking one off, is there anything inside that will drop/pop off when I pull it? The reason I need to take it off is that some of the bolts actually broke off, while others screwed their way out. Not sure why they came out or what made the others break but they did. It would be so much easier to get the broken bolts out with the flange out.
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I have a 2001 gti that I just changed the cv axle on and it feels like it's failing already but there's no play in the axle or place it mounts to the tranny.. Doesn't feel like the last one I removed but rumbles and clicks at 30+mph.
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So I just had my transmission replaced because my cv axle popped loose and tore a hole right into my old one spilling all the tranny oil all over the road. I was able to find another used one and then bolt it up and now I have a small issue. Its been leaking a little bit of tranny oil through the one piece on the bottom that has two bolts on it and a VW logo on it.
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I recently just lowered my gti and I noticed that the sway bar was laying on my passenger side axle. I put adjustable end links on but that did not got the problem either, this car I daily drive.
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So I just but my golf about a month ago and have hit many problems but the most annoying is the hum I get at 3500 rpms. In my searching I feel somewhat confident this is caused by a cheap right axle replacement. I also went under and found on the left axle markings that indicate its is oem VW and I was unable to find these on the right side. anyway I have found this: [URL]....
It says it is a hollow axle right there and it is 170 less than the cheapest oem one I have found. would this workout?
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I changed the driver side axle on my 03 GLI 24v VR6 today and the driver side of the car now seems higher than it was. I was given the wrong axle twice so the car sat on a jack stand for hours could this be why? If so how long will it take to revert? Only things that was undone was the ball joint and tie rod so I'm not too sure why it seems higher.
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I have a 2004 GLI that I just completed the slave cylinder on, after i got everything back together my driver side axle is now rubbing really bad on the sway bar where it connects to the endlinks. What could be wrong?
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Okay I have a 2000 Jetta GLS VR6. I had the engine replaced after i found out the block was cracked when replacing the heater core. ever since it was replaced the car runs great but it keeps throwing these 4 codes.
p1424 secondary air injection system bank 1 leak detected -intermittent
p0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected
p1603 internal control module failed self test -intermittent
p0134 02 sensor bank 1 sensor no1 no activity -intermittent
The thing that is bugging me is that the sai pump is still running. On cold start it literally sounds like a Dyson vacuum. What i should try.
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I'm looking at buying a 00 jetta vr6,the couple who owns it claims it never came on before they parked it, but after not running for around 3 months it started again. Idles fine, starts on the first crank, no strange noises coming from it, bogs down around 2200 rpm?
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2000 golf glx VR[IMG][/IMG]
Epc light is on going down the list of things it can be. Should this be closed all the way while car is off. And if it is then is it closed all the way in the picture?
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I have a 2000 jetta 2.0 124k automatic I want to know how hard would it be going from gas to diesel? And also what would I need to do to get started.
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Recently bought a 1999.5 vr6 jetta and noticed that it will randomly grind going from 1st to 2nd gear (its a manual). It seems really erratic, it will do it at any rpms and at completely random times.
It only does it when shifting up, not downshifting. I can also go 50 times or more shifting into 2nd without it happening or it can happen 5 times in a row. Not sure what do here...
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I just picked up a 2000 GTI VR6 and it's got a few issues but what's bugging me the most is the hatch won't open, I've tried everything I can think of but no luck. what should I do next?
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I have a 2000 Jetta that doesn't blow cold AC. Here are the details:
- When the AC is turned on, air does blow through the vents. Each setting (1-4) does blow harder than the previous.
- Both front fans spin and are working
- The AC compressor clutch never engages
- All fuses (two inside the car and the one above the battery) have been replaced and test good.
- When the AC is on full blast, the voltage coming from the AC compressor wire shows ~9.3V for about 5 seconds, then jumps up to about ~11V for less than a second, this repeats over and over and the clutch never engages.
What the next logical troubleshooting step would be? I've read about this possibly being the fan control module (maybe) and also read about testing the AC compressor using an external 12V power supply, but am not sure where to go from here.
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I have a 2000 Jetta TDI, with an aftermarket radio, which was professionally installed about 3 years ago. never given me problems till recent.
After driving i turn off car and all is normal, except frequently i can come back within an hour or two and find that the radio illumination is on, and that i can no longer turn the radio on (with or without key turned on). i also cannot turn off the radio. i say turn off because while it is in this odd mode i can plug in my iphone and it will charge and play music as if through headphones, it is also powering up my amp while in this mode. If i pull fuse 42 it resets and all is good.
I have not noticed any problems while driving or when radio is ON normal
I have swapped out the radio with another identical radio and it is still doing the exact same thing.
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