Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 VR6 Remote Not Working After Battery Change
Jun 12, 2016
I have changed the batteries in the remote for my MY 2000 Jetta MKIV VR6. Now the remote is not working. A search suggests I need to program the remote using a specific procedure. Alas, I have found various procedures, and so far none has worked.
First of all, I have two keys, Both were functional. One still is.
What I tried:
-Put key with fob in ignition and turn key to accessory mode position.
-Wait 5 seconds
-Hold lock button on 5 down for 10 seconds.
-Turn ignition off and remove key.
-Close doors on car and trey to lock/unlock - not working!
I'm sure I can find a few more suggested methods, but what's the proper method?
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Any VCDS instructions to reset?
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The remote locks on my 2000 Jetta GLX have been working intermittently for almost a year. I had been using the manual key to lock/unlock until finally the manual lock alarm disarm also became intermittent and I found myself stuck at a truck rest stop at 1:30 a.m. with my alarm repeatedly howling into the night and no way to disarm it. I felt caught. I felt trapped. Like I was found guilty of a crime I had never committed. I knew then - I had work to do.
My research in the forums indicated that the door lock assembly was a common culprit - a gremlin, often leaving headaches as it's only calling card. I worked quick, pulling a driver's side door lock assembly out of 2003 at the local junkyard and replacing it no problem. To my surprise, although this DID fix the manual locking/unlocking/alarm disarming problem, it DID NOT fix the remote unlock problem. The culprit was still at large.
Business as usual with intermittent remote unlocking/locking/trunk-popping for weeks until my dash threw the "AIR BAG FAULT" light. I decided to question a local garage owner who's VAGCOM told me that it was caused by something on the driver's side door. He was busy, but it reset fine and I was on my way. I know now that I should have asked for the code then but I was caught in the beauty of a girl who only nails polish was the grease and dirt of the car she worked under. And about a mile down the road, the light came back on.
Now, the "AIR BAG FAULT" light is on as soon as I start the car. However, the time seems to vary slightly before the Jetta beeps and tells me in faded red letters "AIR BAG FAULT". Sometimes right when I leave my driveway, sometimes not before I drive a mile or two down the road. My remote unlock is still working intermittently.
I need both my airbag fault and the remote unlock fixed. I'm wondering if these two problems are related? Like maybe there's a loose connection that is causing the airbag sensor to short and it's beeping when it bumps out of place and maybe the intermittent remotes are being caused by slamming of my driver's side door too hard & it's losing a connection as well. I tried putting a little conductivity jelly in the female clip that goes to the window regulator motor because I heard that the airbag sensor is in there somewhere but it didn't make a difference.
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I bought a golf mk4 2000 and sometimes when rains the battery light comes up and the power (electricity) of the golf goes a bit out, but it don't turn off. It is only when is lots of water on the road.
Symtoms:
The handle gets hard
A/C stops for a second
Light flickers
I can solve it buying a splash engine cover? Or I should check something else.
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I have a 2000 VW Golf 2.slow. I have done some research from other threads but I'm wondering if mine is a simpler fix then testing all the wiring. After taking the car to Auto-Zone and having my battery and alternator tested they said the alternator was the problem. I had to wait a day to get paid to buy the alternator so I had them charge the battery. After I put the battery back in and started her up I got a flashing e-brake light, ABS light and no A/C. My A/C clutch compressor isn't kicking in either. I checked my brake fluid and it's fine as well.
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I recently bought a 2000 Golf VR6 and I've noticed that my fan to the radiator stays in way too long and think it might be draining my battery. I don't even have to start the engine, once I put my key in the fan starts going. I'm getting really annoyed of having to take the out the fuse to get it to turn off. The battery is brand new so I don't think that's the problem.
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Just put a side post battery with top post adapters on. I drive to town the battery light was flickering with every little bump finally it turned off. Got to the house car shut off tried to turn it on and nothing no click nothing. The dash lit up half way the radio flickered on and off constantly and and the ebrake light flashed with a beep. I'm at wits end. Just bought a tire and battery and filled the tank and now this happens. 2000 jetta 2.0 GL.....
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I replaced the batteries in my key fob yesterday, and now it doesn't work. My car has no accessible exterior key holes, due to the trunk lock being seized as long as I've owned it, as well as the drivers door lock having the exterior plastic cap(is there a lock still hiding under there?) So instead, I hopped in through the sunroof since I had left it open, and once I opened the door the alarm went off. I disconnected the battery, and when I reconnect it, the immobiliser resets. I assume that my fobs have reset, so with there being no exterior locks and no fobs programmed, what should I do? The car is not driveable at all right now, and I can't even close the sunroof in case it rains.
Some additional details:
2000 Golf 2.0 VIN WVWBA21J0YW745218
Fobs are HLO 1JO 959 753 F
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I have a jetta that sat inside for 3 months. and when i went to start it it ran great but when i went to restart after shutting it off it wouldn't restart until I disconnected the battery for a few min and reconnected it , and that is when the check eng light came on the car runs great but having to disconnect the battery each time so I also took it to get the codes read and this is what i got po725, p1780, p1850, po605, po113, po102. I find these codes to be well to say it is a little unbelievable as the car runs fine and i had no trouble before i parked it for 3months. The car only has 58,000 miles on it ?
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I Have a 2005 Camry LE. My remote is not working.
I had the remote battery changed, and also bought a new one on ebay and did the programming, which was successful, but still not working.
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I took the battery out of my key. When I replaced it, my remote does not work anymore. Does it need to be reprogrammed when you remove the battery? If so, what is the process?
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My blower motor in my Jetta recently stopped working. When I turn on the blower it works for 10 seconds or so then slows down and dies. Is this a blower motor or resistor problem?
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Just FYI for those that may encounter key fob issues after replacing the battery:
Yesterday, I noticed the one of key fobs stopped working (2009 Tig SEL). The key fob battery was dead (tested the battery in another device). My 2nd key fob still worked, so I used that until I was able to pickup a new battery (2032) from the local store. Got home replaced the battery in the key fob that did not work. The key fob now lit the LED whenever I hit any of the buttons on the remote, but would not actually unlock/lock any of the doors / hatch or PANIC functions.
Called my local VW dealer and they to swing by (I work less than 5 minutes from them). One of the techs came out an verified the the key fob did not work, but did light up the LED. He told me they have seen this before and it does not always happen from changing the battery, but here is how he got the key fob to work:
Use the flip out key and manually open the driver's side front door (remove the little key cover on the rear of the door handle). 'Cycle' the key clockwise and counter-clockwise. Doing this locked and unlocked the veh / flashing the lights and sounded the beep. Remove keyfob and then use. The keyfob was now recognized and worked.
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Today I changed my LH battery due to some issues i had when leaving the can unused for a day or two. I followed the changing procedure listed on the forum and everything went as planned. However now my power trunk wont work. I used the procedure to sync the power trunk but now when i hold the trunk button on my keyfob the lights flash etc but no sound or movement from the trunk.
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I have a 2000 Passat and one day the the alarm remote just stopped working. I bought new batteries for it but it didn't work. Shortly after that my A/C started taking about a 1/2 hour to start working. What is the reason for both of these to start acting up?
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After changing the battery on the 2005 Accent, problem now is: no power windows, no radio, no air/heating fan, battery light always stays on. Checked all fuses in box besides driver seat an all OK. Rest of electrical seems ok ( int. and ext. lights, lighter, etc...). I would really really like not to have to bring it to the dealer.
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I just changed the timing belt and everything runs great. I pushed the AC button and no light came on. I checked all the fuses and they are good I took the H and L caps of and tapped the pin and there was air blasting out. Don't know what it could be? All I did was loosen the compressor and remove the belt and put it back on.
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Just the other day my remote began to stop unlocking my doors at all? And the hatch button works most the time along with the lock. Locking it always sets the alarm but on occasion it doesn't actually lock the door. Am I just out a whole key..
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Soooo the other day i killed my battery, went to get a jump- and after I was running again, i went to unlock my doors and only my driver side door would unlock via my key fob.
Now, the lock function will lock every door, using my key (in the door) will unlock every door. Hitting the unlock button in my car will unlock every door..... just not from my key fob.
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How do I make my windows go up and down with remote ?
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Well our remotes only worked close the car and was driving us nuts. You'd have to be within 10 feet or so to arm or unarm the car. So i looked at the wiring diagram for the comfort control module and found which pin the antenna wire is at. Its pin 10 of the smaller connector (12 pin i think) and is a copper wound wire with a clear sheath around it. its the only one that doesn't have a colored insulation around it. I removed the terminal and wire from that slot and installed a new terminal with 6 feet of wire spliced on.
I then routed the new antenna wire along the door sill and to the rear seat area. Its now a 6 foot antenna instead of the small 2 foot one. I then started walking away and arming and un-arming the car. i got to the end of my court (roughly 50 feet) and it was still arming and un-arming even if i held the remote low and not up in the air. Id have to say this was a HUGE improvement and i am much happier not having to walk down stairs to arm the car.
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