Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 VR6 GTI Misfire / Funky Smell Kind Of Like Burning Oil
Apr 15, 2016
My 2000 vr6 gti been starting too act up. After about an hour or so of driving the ride gets rough , loses power and it makes this knocking noise . Although when I punch the clutch in the knocking goes away . Besides the knocking going away the rides still pretty rough though . Once it starts this it starts too backfire way louder than it usually does and it throws out this funky smell kind of like burning oil /syrup smell lol .
I really wanna fix the car . When the car does drive good it's no complaints at all . I do know that I have a misfire in cylinder 3 & 4 though and I do have all the codes scanned from the obd2. I've heared of this being the throw out bearing but I'm not completely sure. There's a video to actually hear it. [URL] ....
Obd2 Codes :
P1473
P1432
P0300
P0301
P0306
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2000 Golf Gl AEG 2.0
My car smells of fuel in the exhaust and when checking the oil it is mixed. I have a cel and it says the o2 sensor is bad, not sure if a bad o2 would be causing all of this or not. The air filter is clean and I have done a few oil changes also. The oil is low also after so many miles but cannot seem to see any leaks.
Car also has over 200,000 miles. Is it necessary to change the gear oil in the vehicle?
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My engine bay smells of burning oil after driving for a while. I have cleaned up the engine in order to find the leak. There is some gunky residue on the belt side of the engine but that wouldn't cause the smell.
Crawling under the car I found that there appears to be a leak between the (what I think is) the aluminum intake side of the turbo and the cast iron center. You can see it in the videos below:
[URL] .....
This is the only leak near the exhaust that I can find. Does this mean that the seals inside my turbo are toast and I will need to either rebuild or replace it? What is the best course of action? Rebuild? New OEM Turbo?
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Last night while i was driving my car began to overheat. I could smell coolant burning. I pulled over and opened my hood. The coolant inside the coolant pod was boiling. Some coolant lines were steaming as well. I could also hear a gurgly like noise coming the engine. This is a 1.8t gti
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Searched for days on this, symptoms are when at idle sometimes will smoke white/bluish with a burned smell. Not just a cold start, warm start aswell. Happens someimes when starting in 1st gear getting going a cloud with appear, only sometimes, does not happen all the time. And also cruising on the highway i was told little was visible. Now my turbo hold and boosts full. All new pcv piping. No engine codes. No lights on, was thinking along the lines of turbo seal? Spark plugs are dry aswell. Im stumped.
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I just recently picked up a 2000 Jetta VR6. its 173k miles on it and has few issues with it.
The Background. The car had a check engine light on and when i bought it I was told it was just an o2 sensor and i trusted him cuz i knew the guy (sorta). Bad move on my part, but not terrible. After I bought the car, i took it to autozone to just get the codes and be sure. It came up with a P1116 - o2 sensor heater circuit open on bank 1 (expected), and I also got a P0302 - misfire cylinder 2 (dafuq?). The misfire surprised me cuz it did not feel like it was misfiring whatsoever and it did not have flashing CEL.
After driving the car for a few days, I have noticed a few things that make me believe that it is either a faulty injector or seal.
1. The misfire, but not significant misfire. The only time I can tell any difference on how the car performs is when its at idle, it tends to not idle completely steady and vibrates a little more than what an engine should. Other than that, the car pulls great and not any issues.
2. The smell of gasoline is prevalent. It takes about 30 seconds before it just plain out reeks. And if you pop the hood and stick your nose right next to cylinder 2, you probably get high off the fumes (if that's possible). I am sure its coming from somewhere under the plenum because it was leaking some type of liquid that I had initially thought was just oil but I really think its gasoline.
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About a month ago my wife's 2000 Jetta with the VR6 engine in it started acting up and throwing codes. The codes it threw were for random misfire, misfire in cylinder 2, and misfire in cylinder 5. Starting out, we changed spark plugs, fuel filter, and made sure the injectors were clean.
The problem didn't go away so we water tested the coil and wires, but they passed that test. The wires were quite old and out of spec, while the coil was in-spec across all terminals, according to the vehicle service manual, so we installed some new OEM leads this weekend. While installing the leads we noticed a disconnected vacuum line and reconnected that as well.
The vehicle was driving great for two and a half days, then today while I was sitting at a stop light, it started missing really badly and felt like it was going to kill. It did this for about 5 seconds, then recovered and ran smooth for about 5 seconds, before getting really rough until I started driving when the light changed. It didn't do it when I drove it a few hours later at all. This episode didn't throw any codes either.
What could be causing this issue? Would the MAF cause the intermittent missing, or is it possible that the computer is going bad?
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2000 Jetta AEG ... An intermittent CEL light turned into a blinking CEL after a few months. Checked codes and it threw a P0303 (misfire on Cyl 3).
Pulled the plugs and found this:
There was oil dripping off of the plug from Cyl 3.
I last changed the plugs in July 2014 and only drove around 10k miles this past year.
When I changed them back then though Cly 3 looked like this:
Before I changed them back then I had an oil cooler gasket fail on the freeway and oil shot everywhere under my hood. Obviously oil is in there and it is causing problems.
I have read online and most of what I have read says that it's likely an issue with the VCG (Valve Cover Gasket) or the PCV (Pressure Control Valve) that is allowing oil to get to that part of the spark plug tube. I've also seen some non VW stuff talking about replacing the spark plug tubes.
Also it does appear that there is a little bit of oil around the threads of the other plugs but nothing getting to the all the way to the tip around the electrode.
I have pulled the plugs, wires and the ignition coil as well ... I'm ready for whatever. I am by no means a mechanic but I am capable of following instructions and doing what is needed. My problem is generally finding out what is needed to be fixed.
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2000 GTI GLS 2.0L ... I understand I need to replace the Ignition Coil Pack on my car. I have looked on ECS Tuning to find the coil pack, but from all the pictures I see of other people coil packs they look nothing like what mine do. So I'm wondering if they are different for my specific car? So the issue that I have is my engine sputters sometimes, but more so when is wet outside. Its only cylinder 2 misfiring currently, and I replaced my Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump already in the past 4 or 5 months. Also a local shop had done some work recently and I know they had replaced the spark plugs. So I'm just wondering what coil packs I need for my car, and how I would go about replacing them. From what I saw online with other 2.0L (They weren't GTIs tho) was that the coild pack was behind the SIA pump or something like that, and they are a small black box. It looks to me that my coil packs are inline above the spark plugs and cylinders?
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So i am going to drive to school and going up the hill on my street to turn on the road and i give the car some power as i usually flore it up the hill but suddenly the check engine light pops up and the car doesn't want to go. My foot was all the way down on the gas and i was getting like 3-4 rpm and the car wouldn't even get up to 30mph. so i go around the block trying new things turn off the car and restart it and the same happens so i go back home and park it in my driveway and i turn the car off and get out. I smell something burning from the car so i pop the hood and check underneath the car but no smoke just and intense burning smell. I don't know what is wrong the car just had the recalls done a week ago and this is the first thing that ever happened like this to the car. Has this ever happened to you? What do you think is wrong with the car?
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My daughter's 2000 Jetta with a 2L has an engine light and codes that state Misfire on 1 and 4. It is intermittent as it only misfires once in a while.. She is in Rolla MO, and I am in Detroit MI. A couple of years ago the car died when she was home and I found a swollen/cracked coil pack. I replaced it with an aftermarket. The plugs and wires were replaced about 30k ago with OEM parts. I am tempted to have the son in-law replace the coil pack with a Bosch unit.
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2000 Jetta 2.0 cylinder 2 misfire. Replaced plugs and wires. No check engine light but code is pending and there's still a misfire. Need to smog
Replace coil pack?
Swap fuel injectors and recheck?
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I purchased my car second hand. I don't know if the previous owner was a big, sweaty dude who didn't take showers but....after driving in my car for certain periods, I get a funky body odor from the seat.
I sprayed vinegar/water onto the seat, let it stay and wiped up. I wonder if there's bacteria forming on the seat heat/cooling source?
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I noticed a bit of funky smell coming from the vents when I first turn on the AC and after turning off the AC. So I am trying to locate the air conditioner evaporator drain hose and make sure it's not plugged.
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I've been having this funky smell from vents lately. It doesn't exactly smell foul or corpse-like, but rather more of an old unwashed sock....
The smell seems to come out after a bit of driving with the AC off. When I turn it on, it goes away after a little while.
This has been happening everyday, and I'm thinking that it's condensation, or maybe I just need to change my filter... Is there a way to get rid of this smell without changing anything?
I've read that I can spray Lysol at the bottom of the dash board (where the driver's and passengers feet are) with the AC on at the coldest setting with the recirculate button on. Doing that will flush out the vents and kill whatever is in there.
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I've got a 2000 Subaru outback with 170k miles on it. I recently pulled a code for a bad line pressure solenoid and replaced it. About 500 miles later the oil temp sensor light started flashing so I turned the car off and when I turned the car back on it wasn't flashing and hasn't come on since. No CEL. I'm now about 2k miles after changing the line pressure solenoid and now whenever I drive over 10 or so miles my car smells like the clutch is burning. He idle is a little rough, i.e. it vibrates a little more than usual and the car is a little slow to respond when I gas it.
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I have a 2011 Sonata and have issues where my A/C won't cool properly and gives off a funky smell when I'm at a stop. Then it continues cooling when I drive at speeds.
I am going to the dealership for a steering clicking noise as well and was wondering is it worth telling them this problem too or should I go to an independent shop? My car is at 99,000 miles and I know A/C isn't part of powertrain.
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I have a 4 cyl 2000 camry. I notice the smell of burning oil when I shut off the car and while I'm driving. There is no black smoke coming from the tail pipe and it uses minimal oil. I removed the spark plugs and found oil on the threads of spark plug # 2, but not on the electrode. What's up?
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My car has wet carpet, particularly in the passenger footwell and I have also noticed on the driver's side as well. My car did have a funky smell quite a few weeks ago, but after a couple of weeks of good strong sunlight and heat that smell went away. At the time I thought maybe some water had spilled and it just needed to dry up.
Yesterday we had a bucket full of rain. Quite heavy and strong. I didn't notice anything yesterday when I got to my car as it was still raining. However this morning I found that the smell was back (that wet carpet / mouldy smell) and I had a few minutes before the next train arrived. I checked quickly and found that the passenger side (in Australia it's the left side of the car facing forwards) carpet had a small wet patch.
Anyway got home after work and proceeded to find out what might be causing the problem. I dismantled part of the passenger side and lifted up the carpet and found that all underneath (the padding / noise proofing) was soaked wet.
I removed the plug that normally sits there and the amount of excess water from that plug to the garage floor was more than I was expecting
** Drain Plug **
I asked my wife to point a hose at the sunroof to see if I could spot where the water was coming from. I noticed that just underneath a big electrical bank sitting just above the carpet, water was basically running out of this hole.
** Close up of the hole where water is pretty much running straight through, basically someone turned a tap on and it just leaks straight into the carpet **
As you can see the closeness to the wiring is dangerously close.
I tried to see if the sunroof holes were blocked and they looked okay. I took some whipper snipper string and tried to feed it down the sunroof holes, but alas did not see where this would come out. I tried searching under the car, but couldn't find the spot where the water would normally drain out. The string went in and I fed it through, but eventually I hit a block somewhere but I don't know if this is a problem or just the string couldn't twist to get where it needed to.
I need to find out why there is water spilling into my cabin at the footwell. This has started to ruin my carpet and getting into the car with that smell surely isn't good for my or my family's health. Where this is meant to be draining out underneath the car? How do I fix this leak without spending a fortune?
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So I've always been aware of my slight oil leak on my 2003 Hyundai Accent. But it wasn't until I took it to Firestone for a discount oil change that it started getting worse and began to actually smell of burning oil while driving. I've checked the obvious places (ie the oil pan bolt and the newly installed oil filter) and I've determined it's definitely coming from higher up in the engine. Also, when putting cardboard underneath, you can see that it drips from right behind the engine. I figure it is probably that seal that costs but loads of money in labor to replace but when checking it today I noticed that the oil SEEMS to be in the top part of the engine dripping down. I'm attaching pictures of the one spot in particular that appears wet with oil. I'm not sure what it is but I believe it is next to the injectors.
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In 4 x4 ( 2000 ford ranger 4.0 ) and drive for a while I can smell gear oil burning off the exhaust looks like it's coming out of the right cv shaft? Is there a seal that goes first That's bad?
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