Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 Randomly Cutting Out
May 11, 2014
My Mk4 2000 Jetta 2.slow has been acting up, a week ago I went to pick something up from my fathers house and a minute later I cam back to start it to only have the idle strange,it as well the throttle being all sorts of weir till it cut out and I had to push it into the drive way. I has the coil pack tested, and it was measured to be right where it needed to buy. I then bought starting fluid and after spraying it into the air intake it started. I had it running till it cut out and had to redo it again. Then when driving home again after putting more in it stopped, I was able to start it again keep moving for another ten second before having it stop again. I am receiving no check engine lights, alternator is good and as wel as the battery.
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I recently replaced my SAI pump rivets with stainless bolts so everything is nice and tight. However, the pump will randomly cut on and run for a few seconds while driving... i notice it usually when I come to a stop, such as at a stop light. I would assume this is because there is an air leak somewhere in the SAI system... sound likely? Maybe purge valve? I haven't yet had it pressure tested in case there is something I can easily to to rule out most potential sources.
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My jetta has been cutting off at stop lights ... I've been reading all of the posts here and come to the conclusion that I needed to replace the crankshaft position sensor...once I found the sensor, hours later...I was able to remove it...it's been a week now, and the car runs great!
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2004 GTI VR6 24V Manual trans. My son's GTI has an intermittent problem that I think will be hard to pinpoint because it is intermittent. I will hopefully have more info this afternoon. Three time now after driving about 20 miles the car will cut off. Usually while slowing down to a stop or to make a turn. So far it has run great at highway speeds.
It has some random symptoms. I drove it to work and it happened to me. The first time I had slowed to about 20 to make a turn and it cut off. I made the turn and let out the clutch and it bump started and I made it to my work parking lot. While turning into the lot it cut off again so I coasted into a parking spot. This part has me puzzled it would not crank the starter. I moved the gear selector to every gear and nothing. I put it in reverse and the starter would crank but would not start.
Came back about an hour later and it started fine and acted like nothing wrong. Drove it home and again about 20 miles and it cut off again. This time it would crank in all gears but would not start. This time the EPC light came on. Left the car and came back later that night and it started fine, EPC light off and drove the last two mile home no problem. I am borrowing a friend from work computer with the VAGCOM software and hopefully will have more info.
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1999.5 MK4 Jetta...
So I mentioned in a previous post that my dome light grounded out and melted the wiring down the A-pillar and into the larger harness. I cut the wire out and strangely am no longer burning up fuse #14 (interior lights, power windows, etc.) but continue to burn fuse #6 (central locking system). Probably the wires melted to the door wires and are grounding out.
Obviously I have to do a bigger fix to get everything re-wired (or just a whole new harness). But really, it's just the alarm that is keeping the car from being mobile, as the alarm is somehow cutting power to the starter (this happened to me before when fuse #14 blew - replace the fuse and boom, you have power to your starter again).
I have searched other forum posts fairly exhaustively with no luck - how to bypass the alarm cutting power to the starter? I know there is a fairly easy way to jump the alarm module connection on the MK3s, but can't figure it out on the same module on the MK4s. Again this is pre-immobilizer.
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I have a 2008 Prius and have been having problems with the a/c blower just cutting out randomly and then coming back on equally as randomly. I can hear the relay click when I turn the fan on and off, but nothing coming out of the vents.
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Have an 05 Limited Excursion v10 where the front blower motor will cut out randomly. The rear blower will work without issue even when the front is not working. When the front is working (98% of the time) all speeds seem to work and can adjust to all heating/cooling positions. After searching the forum I thought the likely culprit was the blower motor; which I replaced this pass weekend but coming home from work it cut off again, clearly the issue is not resolved. I know the ford resistor are known to be prone to issues but symptoms do not seem to point that direction. Also it is does not happen with any consistency, happens at idle just as frequently as the expressway. What else to check and how to check before I have to give in and take to dealership...
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I purchased my 2012 Sonata 2.0T about two months ago and have absolutely loved it and just ordered an intake and sound plate etc. The car has been running 100% perfect. i went out today to start it and noticed immediately it turned over numerous times before firing off. I proceeded about 2 miles to the gas station and noticed it was cutting out a little bit. I got gas and all the way home it got worse and then the check engine light came on. at idle it sounds smooth with a little flutter out of the exhaust but the moment you rev etc...it instantly cuts out and shoots out a lot of white smoke and black water. it has 54K miles so I should be good on most things with factory warranty? this is random!
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I owned a 2012 Ford Mustang that had a safety issue with the stability control. At random times around 50MPH, the stability control would randomly kick on, cutting throttle and applying the brakes - sometimes with force - causing the car to slow down, shimmy, and sway from side to side. These incidents didn't happen often, but when they did - watch out! Since the dealer couldn't replicate the issue, I decided to take a video of the car performing it's deed (and others have as well. This is by no means limited to just my car). Ford - at the corporate level - basically told me that unless the problem was happening when the dealership was looking at it, they weren't going to do a thing about it. As far as they were concerned, what I was experiencing was perfectly acceptable, and apparently normal.
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I have a MKIV R32 and the other day I was driving with the A/C on, blowing cold air when randomly the air turned hot and hasn't blown cold yet. I took a look at the refrigerant levels today and they show a full charge along with the low-side refrigerant tube to the compressor getting cold but no still no luck.
The compressor is on so I don't think that's at fault, what else could there be? Something electrical maybe?
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My issue is on my 1999 Vw Golf MK4 2.0 L Automatic is that today I was heading home from my Moms house. I noticed a fuel smell coming from the engine . I was making a turn to head west then the car suddenly turned off while still in motion.. I let the car die completely turned it back on and it eventually turned back on .The check engine light was on I then headed home I also noticed while in 4-5 RPM the car would not have that much pressure . Like it wanted to shut off again .. I was doing some research from similar issues like mine . Someone said to replace my EGR Valve and my Speed sensor.
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So I have a 2004 jetta GLI (1.8T) with forge splitter valve and short ram intake. I went and got my codes pulled and all 4 cylinders misfiring and random misfires. I replaced both coil packs and spark plugs. check engine light popped up again after about 20 miles and same thing. I just bought the car so I'm not sure how long it has been running with these misfires. I just got the timing belt replaced. I know it could be off a tooth. (Wouldn't a code pop up though for it?) How could I check that. And I also took my MAF sensor off as well and no change. Heard it could be clogged cat, any way to check? I've also cleaned the throttle body. It runs fine when I'm driving, just a rough idle.
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2005 1.8t gti. so my left blinker bulb went out and it was acting normally for a burnt bulb but then my right blinker started to randomly come on and stay on, my blinker arrow on my dash will stay on but very dimly and when i go over bumps it will click on and off and sometimes stay on then shut off when i go over another bump.
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I got my jetta over a year ago, and during that time I've accidentally left the lights on a number of times. But just a few days ago it started making a tone when I leave the lights on. Is there some way to turn that feature on and off, or was something wrong that mysteriously healed itself?
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I believe this fuse has to do with radio and convenience options? 2004 mk4 GLI 1.8t. A few weeks back, the fused popped. I replaced it, and drove fine for a few more weeks. Shut off randomly, so I put a fuse in, try to start, it cranks like usual, but doesnt start. Tried with several different 20a fuses. It pops all of them the second I crank the car. Obviously there is a short somewhere. Where? Or know where fuse 37 goes?
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No AC... Its not the fuse box on top of the battery, I recently already changed that. The air coming out is not cold at all, so I checked the pressure, and it was even higher then it was supposed to. After letting some pressure out, still no cold air. What could the issue be? Should I maybe bleed the system?
Also, its a 2001 GLX so I have climatronic....
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I'm getting used to just expecting a problem with this car every 3 months or so. Anyway, I have a 2004 1.8T GLI which lately has been idling and then stutters and dies. The first time it happened it turned right back over and started driving. So I drove it home and cleaned up the battery terminals and it didn't seem to have a problem since. Now about a month later I was just parked and turned it over.
It was on for about 1 second and then it stuttered and died. I can hear the starter engaging and turning the engine, but it won't turn over. I also checked the battery levels and its showing 12v so I don't think it's electrical? From scanning forums here it seems like the two prime suspects are spark plugs or the fuel pump?
Also checked the fuses and none are burnt. I could see it being the fuel pump because that would explain it randomly stuttering and dying. Also the car is at 149k miles and that is the original pump. Wondering if maybe it being at 1/4 tank isn't working either? Going out to buy a vagcom and see what codes it throws!
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So here's whats going on now. My girlfriend has had her car for about 10 months now, and besides the last 3 weeks it has been a perfect car. In these last 3 weeks though her car has been a real pain.
Her car randomly dies while its being driven/at a stop. It doesn't matter how fast she is going or how long she has been at a stop.
It first started 3 weeks ago when i was driving it to the mall with her and the car started to slow down on the freeway, going about 65. I pushed on the accelerator and got no response. After about 5 seconds all power came back and we were off. At no point in time did the power inside or the headlights dim/turn off.
Next time it died it wouldn't get going again. Battery was fine. My first assumption was the fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump and it ran fine.
A couple days later the car did the exact same thing, except this time the battery was completely shot. Took a look at it and it was almost 8 years old. Went and replaced it.
The following day it died again, this time it was the battery again but since it was a brand new battery we knew it couldn't be the issue. So i went ahead and replaced the alternator. Turned on the car and it ran perfect. While it was running i even disconnected the battery just to make sure the alternator could still power the car, no issues.
A few days went by with everything working perfectly fine, not a single issue that is, until tonight. As my girlfriend was coming to pick me up her car died. She was coming up to a stop light and starting to slow down when her car lost power again. All the lights and radio stayed on but the car died. Battery light came on as well. I walked to her car and told her to try to start it. Fired up right away and ran fine like nothing ever happened. Drove it to my house without another issue.
At this point i'm stumped. The CEL is not coming on, which is a bummer because that would make this much easier. I cleaned off the terminals for the battery and the connecting wires (which weren't dirt or corroded).
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2004 gli , 1.8t , 136k , 6 speed
The car started misfiring after exiting the freeway, at the light it felt like it was gonna cut off. The brake pedal is stiff like the car is off. When it's idling is when it's most noticeable. It smoothed out after 2nd gear at like 35mph but still not right. The pedal thing has never happened before but I knew the sputtering was the coils, so I had it scanned and sure enough. 5 codes.random misfire.. random misfire all four cylinders.. so I bought 4 and replaced the old ones.. Changed the Sparks as well. No change.. The cel came back on..still idling rough.. What it could be.
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I've got 149,xxx miles on my Golf TDI. Took it by a local shop for a routine oil change and since then, it's just been puking oil from the oil cooler. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic even pointed that out. Some red flags here; Timing is too shady. This happened literally the day after the oil change. He also told me that he won't use customer-supplied parts for liability reasons. Seems believable enough, but why would this part just choose to go wrong now?
This is my first time at this shop too and I've never really dealt with "bad mechanics" before but something about this isn't sitting right with me, and I'm not sure how to handle my next step properly. So what would cause an engine oil cooler to leak profusely just after an oil change?
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04 jetta 1.8t
apr tune 1.6v
neuspeed 4bar fuel pressure regulator
3" turbo back
APR TIP
This is the second time this happened to me. First time was about two weeks ago where i was just driving and the car stalled. Tried to start but it sounded like it just wasn't getting fuel. Brand new battery, terminals are clean) Got it started and it was revving high like a cold start, normal but why after driving for 30 mins? EPC light came on also which was strange along with the CEL, a buddy checked the code and it was for the secondary air injection pump. (I have not had that go off in a while. Code po4011 secondary air injection. Had this issue a while ago with that code when i did a short ram intake. Tuner cleared it so i can pass emissions. ) Now today it died about 2 miles from my house. Same thing but no CEL. EPC light came on and car was revving high, luckily 3 cars behind my buddy was there and he give me a push into the gas station. Once again it wanted to start but i felt like no fuel. waited a few minutes and it started right up again until it almost died in my drive way. Cluster comes on when it dies. ignition is good.
My big question is the stalling part and the EPC light coming on, then the car revving like it is a cold start but not stopping? and i need this car to be working.
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