Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 - Oil On Spark Plugs?
May 7, 2014
I have a 2000 Jetta 2.8 VR6 (the 6-cyl) with 128k miles and I have oil on my spark plugs, only on one bank of the motor (the bank closest to the bumper, if that makes any difference). I am aware that it is most likely a leaking or worn out valve cover gasket, and I have a replacement and am prepared to replace it. What I need to know, and I can't find this exact part anywhere, is do I also need to replace the spark plug tube seals??? The gasket I ordered did not come with any tube seals, I can't find this part on any auto parts website at all, nor have I been able to locate anything useful on this, or any other, website. I know the 1.8 has plug tube seals, and they come with the gasket, but does the 2.8 also require tube seals? I imagine it would, but I just don't know.
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I just did the plugs and now the check engine light is on?
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Nissan altima gle (2000) and for the past 3 weeks it has not gone over 55. The car was running ok before but was idling rough. A mechanic replaced the intake manifold gasket, the MAF sensor and the fan sensor. I decided to change my spark plugs when I noticed the idling was getting worse. The spark plugs had oil on them and now a month after the new ones are burned (like ashy tip, black thread) and dripping oil again. I think is the oil not letting my car accelerate in the highway. I considered changing the valve gasket, cables and cap for the spark plug. A mechanic told me not to bother because the motor is a lost. Is he right?
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I am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
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I was having some problems and one of my friends told me to post up here before I went and saw my mechanic. So my car isn't starting (its a 06 r32). Now I've gone through a whole list of things and what I have worked out is that it is the spark plugs not firing (none of them are) although they are all brand new and were working not too long ago.
Battery is fine and fuses look good no warning symbols on the dash so I'm at a bit of a loss as to what it could be. Relays? Coils?
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2000 Jetta AEG ... An intermittent CEL light turned into a blinking CEL after a few months. Checked codes and it threw a P0303 (misfire on Cyl 3).
Pulled the plugs and found this:
There was oil dripping off of the plug from Cyl 3.
I last changed the plugs in July 2014 and only drove around 10k miles this past year.
When I changed them back then though Cly 3 looked like this:
Before I changed them back then I had an oil cooler gasket fail on the freeway and oil shot everywhere under my hood. Obviously oil is in there and it is causing problems.
I have read online and most of what I have read says that it's likely an issue with the VCG (Valve Cover Gasket) or the PCV (Pressure Control Valve) that is allowing oil to get to that part of the spark plug tube. I've also seen some non VW stuff talking about replacing the spark plug tubes.
Also it does appear that there is a little bit of oil around the threads of the other plugs but nothing getting to the all the way to the tip around the electrode.
I have pulled the plugs, wires and the ignition coil as well ... I'm ready for whatever. I am by no means a mechanic but I am capable of following instructions and doing what is needed. My problem is generally finding out what is needed to be fixed.
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I got the APR ECU Tune in June along with VW Racing air intake. Car runs great except... the engine is knocking under full load. The guy who did the install heard it right away but I just thought he was trying to up sell me. He suggested new spark plugs.
Well it's two (three?) months later and I've come to accept that I can't drive it in the 91 program anymore (I paid extra for the ability to switch programs - lucky!!). I was switching back and forth between 91 and stock and I can hear the difference.
Are spark plugs the likely fix, and how do I choose the right ones for my Mark VI Golf R? "one step cooler"??
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I've been doing the 40k service to my R32, and was in the process of changing the spark plugs.
The first three went smooth with no problems, the next three however.... When I pulled the coil packs off, they were covered in rust and corrosion.
The inside of the block leading down to the spark plug (where the coil pack was) also had rust in it. I haven't pulled those three spark plugs out yet. What caused the rusting?
I assume I need to replace these three coil packs, and clean off the existing spark plugs before removing them. Is that a fair assessment?
I haven't had any trouble with misfiring or stalling. The car has been running great.
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After getting some misfire and hesitation (code reading says misfire on cylinder 3), it looks like I'll be doing my first spark plug change on my 24V VR6. I've ordered all of the plugs, and have made sure that I'v got all my tools on hand. Hopefully, the DIY's I've found on Vortex will be as useful as they look .
My car has 163K on the clock, and spark plug change has been on my short list of to-do items, as I'm not sure of the maintenance history of the car. Hopefully, the spark plugs will do the trick, but coil packs will be done soon too.
Would it be OK to change just the coilpack on cylinder 3 and leave the others alone if they are all working OK? Or just shell out the cash to change all six at once?
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I am having a problem where my spark plugs keep going out. I changed all the plugs, wires and coil pack on my 2001 Windstar and within a few months my van was running on 4 or 5 cylinders instead of 6 and this isn't the first time it has happened.
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I have a 2001 saturn sl 2 and I noticed some oil around all the spark plugs. The engine seems to be loosing oil a little bit as well, about a quart a week. Its not buring it or leaking that I noticed.
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'03 Solara 4 cyl, 135K repl. Fuel pump, 45# press ok, NO scan tool code(s), turns over fine, no spark 2 plug. Started/ran fine before fuel pump change.
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I was thinking about change my spark plugs on friday so today I went to check the ones the car have open the hood took the engine cover out and the ones on the sides, I see 6 wires 4 going to the left side(air intake side) and 2 going to the right side (where the oil fil cap is) so I say think this should be the spark plugs wires. I take one of the left side wires out and is cover in oil so I keep taking the other out one by one and all of them have a lot of oil I can't even see the sparks plugs. All the wires have numbers on top 1 to 6. I say this have to be the wires cause I don't see any other place where the plugs can be located at. The car is a 99 v6 fwd...
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I would like to have a look at the condition of the ignition plugs in my V8 Phaeton.
According to the service plan, it's already time to change them and it also seems that the car has lost some power when accelerating.
Is it even possible to change them with the 'usual' knowledge (knows how to change a tire and so on) or should I better go to a professional.
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Had issues with TBI, rebuilt. Had some starting problems after truck sat for 1 day or more, but would start after a few tries. At one point when it was particularly stubborn, starter lead vibrated off. Once reconnected, truck started, ran fine, but had some electrical humming & radio interference. The starting issue continued with some low rpm stumbling, when driving check engine light would come on at cruising speeds and go off 7-8 seconds after letting off gas.
Had 1 day lest week when I drove a bit more then normal (150+) but ran fine other then engine light. Next day started, but ran horribly rough with violent back fires. At one point stalled and would not restart. It looked and acted like it was flooding itself out and poor spark. Less then a year I replaced cap, rotor and coil. Now I have done all new plugs and wires. Now it appears I have no spark. I had been in the dash messing with the blower motor relay 2 days prior to the stalling and not starting.
Does the ECM control spark? Cant it go bad slowly? And if I had to do alot of cranking of the engine to get it to start, would that have any thing to do with it going bad?
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I don't have a torque wrench. I just have a spark plug wrench. I changed my own spark plugs. I don't like taking them out and putting them back in. I'm not sure if I got the torque right. What should I do?
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Bought my car three weeks ago. I was looking around under the hood and noticed that the color of the connector on the spark plugs is different. Two are grey and two are black, in alternating order. What's up with that?
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I have a '63 Buick Wildcat that has been sitting for 17 years. It has 2 spark plugs stuck in the motor. I got the other 6 out with liquid wrench. The other 2 have been soaking in liquid wrench for 2 weeks and I have been using a 3/8 drive spark plug socket, but still unable to get them out. How to get them out?
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Today I ran into a problem while i was changing my spark plugs ...two of the plugs were completely covered in oil. I mean oil was literally dripping off those plugs. I have a Passat 1999 2.8L V6. What could be wrong.
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I need to change spark plugs in my daughter's 2010 Tiguan but I have never worked on a VW before. How do I get to the spark plugs and what brand is recommended?
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I can't get a single spark plug to come out of my 2009 Corolla S. I'm using a 3/8 ratchet with a 3 inch extension and a GearWrench 9/16" x 6" Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Socket (3938D). Which is exactly what others have suggested. It feels like the socket is just spinning around on top of the spark plug. I'm kind of at a loss for what to do now?
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