Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 - Knock When Going In To 1st / 2nd And Reverse
Oct 8, 2014
I have a 2000 VR6 M6. I will do my best to describe the problem I am having and what I have done so far.
I get a knock when going in to 1st, 2nd or reverse. If I let the clutch out real easy I will not get it. If I go in to 1st depress the clutch and then move forward again it is not there. Same with reverse, go in to reverse and I get it but depress the clutch and then let it out it does not happen. When going from 1st to second during normal diving I will get it, and leaving from second I get it also.
What I have done and looked at so far, replaced the left side mount and the dog bone. Inspected all other items such as the control arms, body mounts and stabilizer bar. I have also changed the fluid with Synthetic 75w90. Axles look pretty good and I do not suspect it is there.
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My 2000 Jetta gls vr6 automatic was not shifting into reverse until it warmed up a bit, so I did a filter and fluid change, car level, warm pumped fluid while shifting gears. No problem. Next morning no forward fear, guess I split the gasket by over tighting. Had it towed home. Oh, tried to get to work, adding fluid made it go. Now now gasket and fluid. No gears at all. Generic code reader said electric malfunction on every shift solinoid, torque converter lockout and something about shift timing malfunction. Basically everything connected to ribbon harness. What's up? Did I fry it. Also I have a 2002 triptronic from my 2002 vr6, suppose that's not a bolt on?
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I got a 99' Jetta gls 5 spd. I just replaced the transmission and now the car won't engage reverse from inside the cockpit. Reverse can be engage from inside the engine bay, but when the shift knob is depressed nothing happens. Linkag cables are in the correct spots.
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I replaced the knock sensor because I was getting the p0327 for the front knock sensor. Drove it again and still sputtering and CEL came back. What are other causes of this? N75 solenoid? Low fuel pressure?? It has a spectre air filter kit on it. Didn't know if this would do it. I cleaned maf. Just put new plugs in it too.
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My Jetta wagon with 131K on it has a ping when I accelerate hard. I know it's not bad gas, but probably a carbon buildup. I've done a few seafoams that had some effect, but not much. I'm gonna do the water spray/steam next. Which components are prone to carbon buildup in these gassers that would cause ping?
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I can't figure if it's a TB issue as I've just had it replaced or a mount problem. I only get the knock on biting point idle and pull away under load. This noise is driving me insane.
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I got my car in November and I just did a scan and got this code. I don't have a CEL on. I do feel a slight vibration from time to time. It's very light.
Should I clear all DTCs and then run a scan a couple of days later to see what codes I truly have? Or should I address this code?
If yes, what should I do about this code? Do I need to buy a new knock sensor or should I check the wiring first with a voltmeter?
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen jetta, recently my reverse has went... Not sure the reason.
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Have a 20th with the 02m six speed ... Car won't go into any gear, except reverse ... Tried with the car off or on, clutch in and out with no luck ...
I took off the linkage from the engine bay and can only manually get the car to go into reverse ... Feels like it can't change "levels" ... Don't think it's clutch since because the car won't engage a gear even with the car off ...
Tried searching and no luck ... Thinking shift forks but hoping not since don't want to drop the transmission and it could be something else ...
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I'm just having a mis-alignment for my gearing reverse is replaced as first and I have no second gear not reverse only 1-3-4-5 gears are being entered what can I do to fix this...
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I have an 03 Jetta with an awp and 02j trans with 100,000 and I believe it's still the factory clutch. Trans fluid was flushed at 98000.
Problem : Going into first and reverse is really tough.
From 1st to 2nd and all other gears it is decently smooth not perfect though
The clutch pedal has a slight vibration in it when fully depressed
Once car gets warm it gets even worse to get into first and reverse
Does not pop out of gear or grind.
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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I'm wondering if this piece of plastic has anything to do with it,also it is a 2001 jetta 2.0 .I just don't know what it is, or what to look up as a part # or name.
About 2 months ago,it just started acting up, shifts fine, but I have to push down hard 75% of the time to get it into reverse.
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I bought a MK4 GLS 2.0 5 spd with 200,000km on it back in february, It currently has 208,000km on it.
Whenever I drive in reverse, I get this loud shuddering/rattling noise with a slight vibration. I've noticed that it is louder from a stop and when the clutch it partially depressed accelerating,but pretty much goes away when the clutch is let out or when coasting.
It is sounds like it is coming from behind the front seats to the rear of the car. It almost sounds like the rear shock mounts are rattling. I also sometimes still here a slight knock, similar to the sound of worn sway bar bushings, but replaced those a few weeks ago.
I also get the same knock whenever I screw up a shift and the engine moves. I also considered and engine or transmission mount but i don't really get any vibration through the steering wheel other than a small amount which could be attributed to the poly dog bone bushings.
About two months ago but I replaced the RR shock mount with a new one. The old one looked fine. I replaced the RL shock mount with the one that I removed from the RR side.
Changing the shock mounts made no difference but I noticed that I could easily compress the RL rear shock with my hand. Could worn rear shocks be causing this noise/vibration? I've searched but I can't find an explanation besides the shock mounts.
I have replaced a few suspension components in the last few months:
-rear beam bushings in august
-front sway bar bushings a few weeks ago
-RR rear shock mount (new)
-RL rear shock mount (used from other side, but looked fine and replacing it made no difference)
-energy suspension poly dog bone bushings about six months ago
I don't think the car was really maintained that well due to it having original sway bar bushings and having tires that were worn very unevenly due to the rear beam bushings when I got it.
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This weekend I replaced the transmission in my 2000 12v vr6 5 speed golf. Got In drive around block going through each gear all seemed fine. Then I tried reverse and couldnt find it. Seem like it reverse was more like 5th cause car would try and move forward. I have the new style shifter and the bearing is quite a bit beat up. However if I in engine bay operating the gears directly on shift paddle I still can't seem to find reverse. Is there some kind of lock out or what could I be missing. I tried adjusting the cables but that seemed to make things worse not better.
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So I just replaced my clutch. I have a 2001 Gti vr6. It has roughly 120,000 miles and the clutch went out. I ordered a stage 1 clutch and put it in. Everything went smoothly and now I am stumped as to why I can't shift into first, third, and reverse? Second, Fourth, Fifth all work. Why this happened?
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Is it a good deal to buy a 1.8t jetta with transmission problems. Won't go on reverse when the car is cold. 1500? mk4 vr6 .....
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So my 2.0 Golf GLS Automatic has been having a few small issues lately.. Started out with engine stalling out when put into into Reverse. I was told to swap out the TB so I did. Didn't fix issue, next I was told alternator, installed a new one & it didn't fix the issue... . I finally decided today to throttle up the RPM's when I put it in reverse & guess what it worked!!! No more vibrations no more stalling (For now anyway). But on the even brighter side it finally gave me codes!!! P0725, P1780, P0740, P1850, & P1544. I know it seems bad but I finally have something to work with!! Only bad thing that really concerns me is that now I feel like I may need a new tranny....
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Over the past few weeks, my car (2002 Golf 2.0L) has gotten really hard to shift into 1st and reverse (has crunched once or twice), but only when the car is hot, after driving it for a little while. When this happens, and I try to shift into reverse, the shifter feels really "sticky" and can get kind of stuck in the depressed position near reverse.
I bled the hydraulic system and replaced the slave cylinder, but no dice. I haven't noticed any clutch slipping. Shop wants to replace the whole clutch. Is this the right answer?
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I recently purchased a 2002 Jetta VR6 GLX. It drives fine when the transmission is warm, but fails to go into reverse and has a hard time shifting out of first when it's cold. I took it to my german mechanic friend who specializes in transmissions and he said that both the valve body and transmission need to be replaced. Problem is I don't have the funds to replace both.
The current transmission has 131000 on it.
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Drove my 02 VW golf GL to the airport, it sat there for 4 days, drove it back home. Next day I noticed that my 1st gear and reverse are very hard to get into. So I kept messing around with it and noticed that if I tried to put it slowly into first gear that there was no way in hell it would go, it felt like the gear was closed.
But if I put it into second gear and push it from second gear into first gear it goes back into first gear about 70% of the time. And it will also go into first gear if I push my stick down as if I'm attempting to go into reverse, and slowly move it into 1st gear.
The reverse is also very hard to get into it feels just like the 1st gear does when you try to do it slowly, it's like it's closed off/blocked. Latest work that was done to the car, replaced the clutch about 4-5 months ago.
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