Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 - Going From Gas To Diesel?
Oct 30, 2014
I have a 2000 jetta 2.0 124k automatic I want to know how hard would it be going from gas to diesel? And also what would I need to do to get started.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 jetta 2.0 124k automatic I want to know how hard would it be going from gas to diesel? And also what would I need to do to get started.
View 11 RepliesOkay I have a 2000 Jetta GLS VR6. I had the engine replaced after i found out the block was cracked when replacing the heater core. ever since it was replaced the car runs great but it keeps throwing these 4 codes.
p1424 secondary air injection system bank 1 leak detected -intermittent
p0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected
p1603 internal control module failed self test -intermittent
p0134 02 sensor bank 1 sensor no1 no activity -intermittent
The thing that is bugging me is that the sai pump is still running. On cold start it literally sounds like a Dyson vacuum. What i should try.
I'm looking at buying a 00 jetta vr6,the couple who owns it claims it never came on before they parked it, but after not running for around 3 months it started again. Idles fine, starts on the first crank, no strange noises coming from it, bogs down around 2200 rpm?
View 3 Replies2000 golf glx VR[IMG][/IMG]
Epc light is on going down the list of things it can be. Should this be closed all the way while car is off. And if it is then is it closed all the way in the picture?
Recently bought a 1999.5 vr6 jetta and noticed that it will randomly grind going from 1st to 2nd gear (its a manual). It seems really erratic, it will do it at any rpms and at completely random times.
It only does it when shifting up, not downshifting. I can also go 50 times or more shifting into 2nd without it happening or it can happen 5 times in a row. Not sure what do here...
I just picked up a 2000 GTI VR6 and it's got a few issues but what's bugging me the most is the hatch won't open, I've tried everything I can think of but no luck. what should I do next?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Jetta that doesn't blow cold AC. Here are the details:
- When the AC is turned on, air does blow through the vents. Each setting (1-4) does blow harder than the previous.
- Both front fans spin and are working
- The AC compressor clutch never engages
- All fuses (two inside the car and the one above the battery) have been replaced and test good.
- When the AC is on full blast, the voltage coming from the AC compressor wire shows ~9.3V for about 5 seconds, then jumps up to about ~11V for less than a second, this repeats over and over and the clutch never engages.
What the next logical troubleshooting step would be? I've read about this possibly being the fan control module (maybe) and also read about testing the AC compressor using an external 12V power supply, but am not sure where to go from here.
I have a 2000 Jetta TDI, with an aftermarket radio, which was professionally installed about 3 years ago. never given me problems till recent.
After driving i turn off car and all is normal, except frequently i can come back within an hour or two and find that the radio illumination is on, and that i can no longer turn the radio on (with or without key turned on). i also cannot turn off the radio. i say turn off because while it is in this odd mode i can plug in my iphone and it will charge and play music as if through headphones, it is also powering up my amp while in this mode. If i pull fuse 42 it resets and all is good.
I have not noticed any problems while driving or when radio is ON normal
I have swapped out the radio with another identical radio and it is still doing the exact same thing.
I have a 2000 Jetta 2.8 VR6 (the 6-cyl) with 128k miles and I have oil on my spark plugs, only on one bank of the motor (the bank closest to the bumper, if that makes any difference). I am aware that it is most likely a leaking or worn out valve cover gasket, and I have a replacement and am prepared to replace it. What I need to know, and I can't find this exact part anywhere, is do I also need to replace the spark plug tube seals??? The gasket I ordered did not come with any tube seals, I can't find this part on any auto parts website at all, nor have I been able to locate anything useful on this, or any other, website. I know the 1.8 has plug tube seals, and they come with the gasket, but does the 2.8 also require tube seals? I imagine it would, but I just don't know.
View 2 RepliesHave a 2000 1.8t Jetta that turns over but won't start, What I should be looking into?
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a 2000 jetta vr6 MK4 and since i have had it its had a misfire problem. So its saying that its misfiring in "cylinder 1" and sometimes when I clear the code it will stay off for the whole day. I did everything I could think of. I replaced all the spark plugs. I replaces the plug wires. Then i bought I new coilpack. and its still misfiring.
View 10 Replies00 Golf GTI MkIV 1.8T
key fob worked when i first got car a few months ago, previous owner wanted strereo so changed stereo now key fob doesnt work,
Tried so far: removed Car battery for 10 mins Checked all relevant Fuses Used VAG - Com to check Qty of Keys programmed = correct Used VAC COM to re-sync key. Car signlaed a beep to show correct programming Used VAG com to inspect convenience model, No faults found. Used VAG com to measure sensor, this displays a 1 or 0 dependant on which button is pushed,
Notes Central Locking works from Key in door and via internal push button. Dead locking works if u use key in door twice - alarm arms if Car is dead locked and unlocked with Key in door, the Alarm sounds, I have to put key in ignition and quarter turn to disarm. So in summary It would apear Central locking works as does the key as does the sensor. What else can i try?
2000 jetta 2.0
so far i have replaced 2 fans ; thermal switch in radiator ; ran all the tests i can find ; all fuses and relays seem fine ; jumped compressor and it engages .
key on & car NOT running there is no power to the compressor.
I wanted to check the low pressure switch but every test is for a 2 wire set-up.... mine has 3 wires. which wires do i jump?
So to start off, I own a 2000 golf gls 2.0 it's got 182000 miles on it ... My rpm gauge does some thing weird intermittently. I have an exhaust on it so that's how I know this is happening.
I'll be sitting in traffic, idling, and all of a sudden my rpms go from ~900 to ~700. I start going and I shift into second and as I'm shifting the rpms fall really quickly and if I let it fall all the way it doesn't stop falling at 900 like it usually does. It goes all the way down to ~300rpms and bounces back up to 700. When it gets down to 300 the car starts shaking like it's going to stall and it barely catches itself.
I replaced the batteries in my key fob yesterday, and now it doesn't work. My car has no accessible exterior key holes, due to the trunk lock being seized as long as I've owned it, as well as the drivers door lock having the exterior plastic cap(is there a lock still hiding under there?) So instead, I hopped in through the sunroof since I had left it open, and once I opened the door the alarm went off. I disconnected the battery, and when I reconnect it, the immobiliser resets. I assume that my fobs have reset, so with there being no exterior locks and no fobs programmed, what should I do? The car is not driveable at all right now, and I can't even close the sunroof in case it rains.
Some additional details:
2000 Golf 2.0 VIN WVWBA21J0YW745218
Fobs are HLO 1JO 959 753 F
My Mk4 2000 Jetta 2.slow has been acting up, a week ago I went to pick something up from my fathers house and a minute later I cam back to start it to only have the idle strange,it as well the throttle being all sorts of weir till it cut out and I had to push it into the drive way. I has the coil pack tested, and it was measured to be right where it needed to buy. I then bought starting fluid and after spraying it into the air intake it started. I had it running till it cut out and had to redo it again. Then when driving home again after putting more in it stopped, I was able to start it again keep moving for another ten second before having it stop again. I am receiving no check engine lights, alternator is good and as wel as the battery.
View 10 RepliesSo I am at a loss. My gti starts and runs great, but not for long its like the fuel just cuts off. It won't stay running long enough for the computer to even pop a code...
View 5 RepliesWhen my 2000 GTI VR6 sits for a week or two the coolant will run low. There are no leaks that I can find. No coolant in the oil. The crack pipe looks dry. Nothing from the thermostat hosing that I can see. The carpet by the heater core is dry. Nothing that I can see. The thing that is funny is I can drive the car with it 100 degrees outside in Georgia and have no problems with the coolant getting low, or any signs of a leak, smoke or smell. The head gasket and every gasket except the oil cooler and oil stand gasket were replaced about two years ago. The heater core was also replaced at the time. I gave the front pulled loose so I can pressure test the system and look more today.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 VR6 M6. I will do my best to describe the problem I am having and what I have done so far.
I get a knock when going in to 1st, 2nd or reverse. If I let the clutch out real easy I will not get it. If I go in to 1st depress the clutch and then move forward again it is not there. Same with reverse, go in to reverse and I get it but depress the clutch and then let it out it does not happen. When going from 1st to second during normal diving I will get it, and leaving from second I get it also.
What I have done and looked at so far, replaced the left side mount and the dog bone. Inspected all other items such as the control arms, body mounts and stabilizer bar. I have also changed the fluid with Synthetic 75w90. Axles look pretty good and I do not suspect it is there.
2000 2.0 has full oem exhaust, when downshifting it pops, could this be something in the exhaust or fuel? Not sure as it pops about 2-3 times per downshift. No more no less.
View 3 RepliesI just bought this car in it's current state. I got a really good deal on it so I wasn't too concerned that it wouldn't start. And I did a compression test before I bought it which had really good results.
It's starting up pretty effortlessly. and its really consistent how it goes up to 2000, and then dies. I though it might be the immobilizer but the light turns off like it should.
The previous owner claims it was rebuilt 40k miles ago professionally. I think I believe it. the car has 210,000 miles and 190 psi compression.
It also has a bunch of preventative maintenance done to it. waterpump, timing belt, thermostat, clutch, lightweight flywheel. What it could be? it's got to be something simple. I'm pretty sure this engine is nearly flawless