Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 GLX - Intermittent Start And Stall / Pending Code P0321
Oct 10, 2014
My wife drove the car to work, and it ran good. She got a check engine light, but it was not on when I got home from work. I started the car and it idled fine for a couple of minutes and then it stalled. I check the codes and there was nothing locked in. There was a pending coding P0321. I am not sure what a pending code is, but I assume not enough to trigger the check engine light.
After work each night this week I tried troubleshooting but I have not gotten anything accomplished. Each night the car would start fine but if I turned it off it would not start until many tries if at all. It turns over strong but won't start. I drove it around the neighborhood today and it stalled and wouldn't restart.
The fuel pump primes. When the car won't start the fuel pump relay clicks constantly. Is this normal? I replaced the fuel filter because it has been 50k miles. Is the crank shaft sensor the problem? I hate to throw money at parts that aren't the problem when I can't get a code to trip the check engine light.
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2000 Jetta 2.0 cylinder 2 misfire. Replaced plugs and wires. No check engine light but code is pending and there's still a misfire. Need to smog
Replace coil pack?
Swap fuel injectors and recheck?
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I just got a 2001 VW Jetta. I got it with the Check Engine light on. Went to my local AutoZone to get a OBDII reading, got codes P0343 & P0321. P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input B1. P0321 Ignition/Distributer Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance. So for P0343 I got the Camshaft Position Sensor for $70 and for P0321 got Crankshaft or Speed Position Sensor for $110 ( FYI, Crankshaft Position Sensor & Speed Sensor are the same ). Paid $160 to get both sensors replaced. I know both sensors are easy to replace but it was easier to pay..
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Over the past few weeks my 2000 Jetta GL has been occasionally been grinding on start up. The car starts fine, but it sounds like the starter doesn't realize that the engine is running and it makes that oh so lovely grinding noise for an additional half a second or so. It doesn't do it every time, just when it feels like being ornery. Is the starter going, or what?
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At times my windshield wipers stall halfway up my windshield or move really slowly. Other times absolutely fine, I already checked both battery terminals and niether were the issue. What's the best way to get to the wiper motor to check the connections. Or does it sound like a ground strap issue elsewhere on the car.
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My car has ~102,000 miles, though I replaced the motor at 95,000.
Yesterday, I experienced these symptoms: My car just stalled in the parking lot going from R to D. Took me several tries to even get it to crank, double checking transmission in park, foot on brake, etc.
Then I had to crank on it a bunch of times to get it to light.
The BT-1 I have on me says I have a P0321 medium generic code. Googling that seems like it's related to a crank position sensor.
Runs OK for now, but I'd like to locate that sensor (is it G28?) to make sure the wires look OK. Happened again the next time I ran it, so taking it off the road for now as unreliable.
Is this the G28 crankshaft sensor location? I figure it's the plug hiding behind the angle bracket to the right of the oil filter in this photo.
I'm trying to figure out if this is within my abilities, or if I should farm it out. As I think about it, I'm guessing the sensor and related harness are not "new" with my motor, they transferred over from the old one.
Still looking for input if I have the right location for the sensor and any input on DIY.
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Having trouble with my '00 Jetta 2.0 A/T w/ 98K miles. Had the water pump replaced @ a year ago (for the 2nd time, the 1st replacement died after <15K miles.) The car has had issues with rough idle when started, especially with a cold engine, since before the 2nd water pump. I've replaced the coil pack, thermostat, and coolant temperature sensor in the recent past in addition to the water pump & timing belt.
The gas mileage sucks, and when it's idling rough it doesn't "idle up", & will stall if the gas pedal is pressed with 30 secs. of starting. Otherwise it seems to run fine. The coolant temp. sensor was replaced after a CEL indicating it was bad. The CEL went off after it was replaced, but it's now throwing a P1296 Cooling System Malfunction. I have noticed the temperature gauge fluctuates instead of staying around the "middle" since the 2nd water pump replacement, and will run "colder" in colder weather. Since spring is here, the temp. gauge stays around "normal", or the middle.
Some research online says thermostat OR coolant temperature sensor. Since the gauge registers normal now, I'm leaning towards a bad temp. sensor...?
Does the hard start/rough idle and the cooling system malfunction CEL could be related?
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I took my 2000 Jetta GLS 2.0 5 speed it a certified mechanic shop that I have used before. This scan show a speed sensor (which I already replaced) and the ECU. He said that the ECU is discontinued and that he could not do the repair.
The car will run fine for 10 minutes then will stall, wait 5 minutes and it will run again for 5-10 minutes stall and repeat the process. Question, what is involved with swapping the ECU with an identical numbered one from a junk yard? Also could swapping out my headlight assembly have any effect, this started to happen shortly after the new headlights were installed.
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I recently replaced my MAF on the car with part number 06A 906 461 A which is not the 07D 906 461 part number. I take it that this is wrong because i am getting power surging in the car at WOT and I have a pending DTC code P0103.
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The car will start and run for about 10 seconds and stall. The engine has been completely rebuilt 20k miles ago. The timing is perfect and the car makes 190psi on every cylinder
I should point out that it is NOT the immobilizer. it has been checked over and over and verified to not be the immobilizer. Here is everything that has been done.
- New fuel pump
- fuel filter
- fuel pump relay
- fuel pressure regulator
- fuel injectors
- fuel pressure has been verified
- spark plugs
- ignition coils
- crankshaft position sensor
- cam position sensor
- MAF sensor
- throttle body
- CU has been tried in another Jetta. worked fine
- gauge cluster worked fine in other Jetta as well.
- brand new battery
- alternator checked and passed
- grounds checked, all fine
The car has been scanned with VCDS. Here are the results:
6 Faults Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
00955 - Key 1
09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
Here is a video of what the car is doing.
I am able to rev the engine but it dies quickly afterwards. vacuum pressure looks completely fine on the boost gauge.
My roommate has a 1.8t jetta as well so I have access to his car for trying things with.
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I am having serious problems with my 2003 Santa Fe 2WD 2.7. First, about two months ago, I would have typical crankshaft position sensor problems whenever it would rain outside and my car would not start or if it did it would eventually stall while driving. Before stalling, the engine light would come on with code P0335 and the engine would shake. I did my best not to drive it during these moments and was always able to get it back home. The problem went away after a couple days of issues until recently.
About a week ago, the P0335 code came back with associated symptoms; however, this time it would not go away. It is worth noting however that I am in Portland Oregon and it is raining non-stop this time of the year. I am not a mechanic, but my neighbor used to be and he carefully guided me through replacing my Crankshaft Position Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor, and several spark plugs.
After all of this work, my car turns over and starts for maybe a second, where before it would not even fully turn over in my driveway. It immediately dies after the second and then I can not get it to start up again unless I charge the battery for a bit or hook it up to another car and even then its only that initial second of start up. Additionally, there are no longer any codes or check engine light, but there is a "pending p0335" on my neighbors reader. I thought maybe my crankshaft sensor was defective, so I got a second one and it is still the same deal.
It is also worth noting that I do not see any tachometer movement during start up. When we replaced the Crankshaft sensor the old one was destroyed. The wires on it were either burnt up or the plastic coating had decayed away almost completely; thus the reason it was shorting out.
My car has all new belts done through a dealership as of 10 months ago, so I doubt it is related to the timing belt. My neighbor thinks it may be bad fuel, although I always get good fuel and I also doubt this is the case. During key-on you can hear the fuel pump start up and other components all working normally, so it is unlikely related to that.
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Is this a warm stall issue and if so what is the actual solution to it ?
- Car is warm it will stall out at times after start . Giving it some gas will save it from stalling
- When dead cold it will have a very sluggish start
New plugs and coils. New fuel pump fuel filter & regulator . New crank sensor . Throttle body cleaned as well as maf. evap leaks all sealed up too. battery is good too
Very frustrating. Only solution would be to leave it at a shop for at least two hours so they could do live scans. But I'd rather not pay two hours of labor for nothing.
[URL] ....
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2.slow bev engine / 2004 golf gl / 105k miles
The car sat in a garage for 9 days. It had no problems before. Now I have a p0441 code that comes back after being cleared, and an intermittent gas cap light. Is there a typical problem that causes this?
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2001 Jetta 2.0, manual trans
I've been having problems with intermittent P0420 cat below efficiency code. Everything else is fine, no codes, runs great. I tried spacing the post cat sensor back w/ extender bung (after replacing post cat sensor..) and still get the code. I don't hear any rattling or anything to make me think cat is bad physically. I was told by dealer that a code update might resolve for $200 - which got me thinking that that if that was so, it should should be a problem which Feds should be aware.
I searched safercar.gov and found this NHTSA ID Number: 10054864
It's a service bulletin saying that VW made the limits too sensitive and it seems there was a customer satisfaction campaign to update code - pdf on site CSC-10054864-8736
It says:
May 2007
Subject: Emissions Service Action N7
1999-2002 Jetta, Golf and GTI with VR6 Engine
Update Electronic Control Module (ECM) Software for Catalytic Converter Monitoring System Dear Volkswagen Owner: We are writing to inform you of an emissions service action on some 1999-2002 Jetta, Golf and GTI VR6 engine vehicles. Our records show that you are the owner of one of these vehicles.
What Is The Problem? The electronic control module (ECM) software for the catalytic converter monitoring system is too sensitive. This can cause the MIL to come on, and some vehicles may exceed Federal and/or California emissions standards. Also, in some cases this leads to unnecessary catalytic converter replacement. What Will Volkswagen Do? Dealers will update the ECM software.
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I have a 2001 GTI VR6 5 speed. It has an intermittent no start. When you turn the key on it will start as long as the EPC light was lit before cranking. If that light does not come on, it will not start. I also can't communicate with the ECU via the OBD2 connector if the EPC light does not come on. So I am assuming that the ECU/ECM is not getting power when this condition occurs. Is there an ECU relay that is possibly out? If so, what is its location?
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Got Tiguan 2011 46000 miles on it. Just serviced intermittent no start and occasional stall after start.
Dealer replaced High pressure fuel pump and fuel pump control module. So far so good.
Seams like common issue.
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I have a 2002 2.0L 5spd Jetta that has an intermittent crank no start issue. The car has about 140k miles on it. The car will crank, but will not always start. It seems to start about 8/10 times. During the cranking, there is a rough noise coming from the starter area. More on this noise later.
When the car starts, no codes are thrown. When it refuses to start, the following codes show up:
P0261 Cylinder I Injector Circuit Low
P0267 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Low
P0270 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Low
P0264 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Low
P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted
P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low B1S2
P0418 Secondary Air Injection System Relay "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (I don't think this is related to the intermittent starting issues)
I've read up on these codes, and there are instances of other people getting these codes as well, but unfortunately, I haven't found any "smoking gun" that's the root cause to solve the issue. What I've tried, chronological order; none of these solved the problem:
Checking for spark. The spark plugs are new (within 2 months), but I removed spark plug and checked for spark.
Check fuel system: I removed the fuel line to the engine and drained it to a jug. I saw fuel flow intermittently when I keyed on the car. (Should it flow continuously?)Replaced the fuel filterSwapped fuel relay 409Checked wires near relays for obvious signs of damage (admittedly maybe I missed something here)Swapped coil pack. The coil pack was replaced in April, but I put a different one on, to no avail.
The spark plug wires were replaced at the same time as the coil pack.Starter
Thought fixing the noise might fix the starting issue. The noise from the starter is a grinding noise that occurs during the cranking process (not after, as is a common problem with these Jettas. It's NOT this noise: [URL] .... In any case, I tried the fix for the above noise by removing the starter and regreasing the inside. That didn't work and the noise and the intermittent starting issues are still here.Finally took the starter to Advance Auto Parts, had it tested, and was told it was good.
I think I have two issues that may or may not be related- the intermittent starting issues and the noise issue. They started happening at close to the same time.
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I have a 06 Passat with a V6 with 80K on it. Recently I have been getting intermittent stalling at start up, only when the engine is warm(but once on a really hot day). The car will rev slightly and stall. After several attempts, it will start, and then it runs fine. VW service said no error codes and didn't offer much more.
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I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
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I keep having the P0102 (MAF Circuit Low) code come up. I've replaced the MAF twice already. I also have the P0113 (Intake Air Temp Sensor) which has been replaced as well. Could the breather hose coming off the Intake Air Duct leading to the oil cooler cause this.
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I have a 2000 jetta 2.0, and the idle seems to rough and when I start the car it seems like I might stall.
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