Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 GLS VR6 12v Codes Won't Go Away
Sep 14, 2015
Okay I have a 2000 Jetta GLS VR6. I had the engine replaced after i found out the block was cracked when replacing the heater core. ever since it was replaced the car runs great but it keeps throwing these 4 codes.
p1424 secondary air injection system bank 1 leak detected -intermittent
p0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected
p1603 internal control module failed self test -intermittent
p0134 02 sensor bank 1 sensor no1 no activity -intermittent
The thing that is bugging me is that the sai pump is still running. On cold start it literally sounds like a Dyson vacuum. What i should try.
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i have a 2000 jetta 2.0 i am in desperate need of a new transmission. Ever since I bought the car I rarely had third gear and today on my way from southeastern PA to northwest Ohio seem to pretty much completely lost first unless I really slam it in and fifth likes to disengage every now and then unless I hold the shifter in place both first and fifth were slowly giving me problems until it got really bad after todays 8 hour drive. My transmission code is EBP, is there any other codes I can put in my car from another 2.0 or do I have to get another EBP?
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The past week, the CEL of my Jetta 2000 was on, and a couple of days after, was off. But yesterday was relit. I take my car to Auto Zone to check codes with scanner, but was impossible read any code, the lector can't connect with computer. I thought in fuses, but the fuses are fine.
Searching on google, i found that the reason could be the aftermarket radio, but I am not sure about that, the connections are seen aparently fine. I Read in one thread that disconnecting the aftermarket radio harness is enough to can read codes from computer.
I read also that the scanner could be incompatible with VW cars, but I don't think that, because AutoZone should have a scanner compatible with most of the common cars models.
The fact is that I don't want to get in troubles with the harness of radio, I don't have tools like multimeter neither knowledge about electrical systems, i just want to know if disconnecting the radio harness is enough in order to read codes. (in case of the problem be on the K-line wire).
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My daughter's 2000 Jetta with a 2L has an engine light and codes that state Misfire on 1 and 4. It is intermittent as it only misfires once in a while.. She is in Rolla MO, and I am in Detroit MI. A couple of years ago the car died when she was home and I found a swollen/cracked coil pack. I replaced it with an aftermarket. The plugs and wires were replaced about 30k ago with OEM parts. I am tempted to have the son in-law replace the coil pack with a Bosch unit.
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I have a 2001 1.8t beetle and doing some research to buy parts I came across two different engine codes. My trunk says I have a AWV engine but the cylinder head says AWM. This is really confusing as looking them up I get three entirely different options for this car.
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I recently had an issue with a coolant leak. the Y shaped coolant line connection went bad located under the power steering reservoir. The car got hot and the coolant light came on i immediately turned the car off and saw coolant leaking out from this.
Now today I start my car it has a rough idle and dies once it dies it doesn't start again and the epic light comes on throwing the codes
17579 P1171 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Range/Performance
17951 P1543 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too Low
16497 P0113 Intake Air Temp.Circ High Input
17987 P1579 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation not started
17953 P1545 Throttle Pos.Contr Malfunction
17976 P1568 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. mechanical Malfunction
18012 P1604 Internal Control Module Driver Error
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My gf's 04 gti 1.8t 5spd is having idling issues. Here's the rundown, at idle it sits at 800 rpm but when given a rev it then becomes erratic and fluctuates between 500-1100 rpm. When throttled again lightly it returns to normal 800 rpm idle. The car will try to stall a little bit. Now for the codes and lights. The lights are the traction control light and the check engine light. The codes are p0102 (MAF) and p2181 (coolant system performance). I have recently had a misfire which I took care of with 4 new coil packs. I kept the 3 good ones I took out. I have to change the plugs still but don't think it's an issue. Has new clutch and sits at 148,852 miles.
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Throwing 2 codes -
P0172: too rich
P1176: post cat 02 reached limit
Last time it turned on it had horrible air flow, it felt as though it was choking. definitely not a misfire. occasionally after spirited driving the engine would die after I came to a complete stop then worsened to cutting off when I put the clutch in at high rpms. also have a slight loss of power. I also recently added a 3" tbe and changed coil packs.
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This isnt my first vw but its my first vr6, its a 2000 gti glx, only showing codes for o2 sensors havent got a vag com yet only have a obd scanner. It idles fine and runs smooth until i get over quarter throttle then it starts hesitating like there isnt enough fuel or air...i know that the noob owner i bought it from cheaply put exhaust on it and i didnt see any o2 sensors but ive never known a car to not run correctly without them.
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So my car has been dropping multiple codes after I scanned her and found all five: p0303, p1128, p0172, p1300, p0301. She is just a simple five speed AEG and has no mods other than a SRI. I already replaced the MAF but that ended up causing more codes and I have checked the vacuum lines to no avail.
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I was having an issue with my car not going into boost so I plugged my code reader in and it had 2 codes 1 was p1200 n249 malfunction and the other was diverter valve malfunction so I did the quick easy one and got a new factory diverter valve but it still doesn't go into boost and still reads p1200 n249 what do I need to replace or should I do the n249 bypass it's a bone stock jetta 5 speed.
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1.8T ... Failed smog test, then got PCV hoses repaired. Now I'm failing because the OBD readiness codes won't reset. I've driven over 100 miles and the shop that fixed it said to "just keep driving it" but that they have no other solution to get those codes to reset. Any tips to those codes to ready?
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Alright I might have made a major mistake and I need some input; I just recent bought a 2001 Jetta VR6 131k on it and at first I didn't notice so much but since I've gotten. To drive it more I've noticed it's really sluggish on take off and doesn't seem to shift into 4th gear. Also I started noticing a faint rattling noise. And the CEL is on with the codes P0785, P0411 and P1151.
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So recently I took my engine apart to do a valve cover gasket and Ecs tuning 2.0 coil conversion. I noticed a good amount of oil in the plug tubes so I got out my trusty soap dispenser and started pumping out oil. Pulled plugs and cleaned them (wanted to make sure oil was all out b4 getting new) also while I had it apart I wanted to take intake off, ( just to polish it and clean out any carbon inside).. Well I never ended up doing that. I removed the injector connections and realized it was to much work for such little satisfaction. So I plugged the injectors back in.
I got my car all back together and now I'm throwing 6 cel codes!! P0102 (maf) which I'm assuming b.c I took it off for so long, p0201, p0202 ( injector 1 and 2 miss), then some misfire codes p0300 (random) p0301 (cylinder 1) and p0304 (cylinder 4). The car starts runs very rough then cel comes on and blinks. I was thinking maybe the oil getting down to the combustion chamber couldn't be the best for it but it would just burn off. Only other thing I did was take off the thottle body and cleaned it.
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My car is not boosting. I had two codes p0238 and p0106...
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I finished installing an auto out of a 1999 beetle into my 2000 golf. I used the beetle TCM now it wont shift out of 3rd. If I manually start in first it will shift up to 3rd but nothing past 3rd. I had it scanned with a generic scanner and these are the codes. P1780, P1783, P0725. I researched the heck out of this and I'm not sure what to do. Do I need to take it and have a vag com hooked up to make sure the ecm and the new tcm are talking? It seems others have had these issues and I thought it might be solenoids but that's not what's coming up.
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Yesterday I purchased an 04 Jetta 2.0 with 179k. It was super cheap and pretty clean. Needs work but I bought it to fix it and daily it. Anyway. When I initially went to look at the car, It started right up. after test driving it, I turned it off to make a deal with the guy. Then started it back up to pull on the trailer. Towed it home, Started right up again to get off the trailer. All was good.
This morning I go out, scan the codes (with an obdII scanner, not vag-com), get the codes, then erase them. Just to get a fresh start at the issues. I go to start the car, and it wont start. Turns over but doesn't fire. Could erasing the codes have done something?
Here's the codes that popped up in case they're important to this situation. P0043, P0102, P3081, P0113. I did scan the codes again after I erased them and it wouldn't start. P0043 is still there.
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Engine runs fine. The pedal is unresponsive. Car will sometimes full rev when taking foot off the break, will sit at idle at other times (no indication as to when or why)
List of codes: 420, 38, 141, 226, 2133, 2128, 223, 121
I know some of the codes are from when I had a cracked ignition coil and moister caused misfiring which lead to something wrong with the cat.
Here's my main question. After everything I've read I've boiled it down to two things to try. There was one obscure post about the break light switch causing similar problems and everything else points to the ECU. I checked my O2 line for damage as that is what seems to be the most common problem of shorting out the ECU and it looks and feels perfect. So I took my ECU off, just to have a look, and the driver side plug seems to have corrosion. This was an immediate red flag, but I have found ZERO information on it. I don't know if I'm looking for the right thing or what. SO, ECU corrosion, break light switch...
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I am getting 20 intermittent ground fault codes and the kid I bought the car from had an alternator put in. I see a terminal closest to the front of the car on the alternator that has no thick wire attached to it and when I was at the junkyard they had wires connected to them. I cleaned all other grounds on the car that I can access so I think that could be the issue but I don't know where the wire should lead to and how the alternator should be grounded!
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So I bought a used 1.8t back in august. My second golf, up from an mkiii and I love it. However, the previous owner installed a CAI and being that he lives in the desert, probably never had any issues taking on water. Fast forward to my problem, got caught in a rainstorm, limped it home with the CEL and the traction lights on. it died like three times trying to get it home, but it still would idle when I parked it.
Now I've used the search feature extensively on this problem, and what I've down so far is to take off the intake and reroute it about six or seven inches from the maf, I've cleaned the filter, maf, pancake pipe, and SMIC with denatured alcohol and those are all currently drying. When I took the IC off, specifically the connection between the pancake and the IC, a good three cups (~30oz/850sillyliters) of water dumped out.
Again, my car still was idling when I parked it. Scanned the CEL and got misfires and maf low air codes. Before I started tearing down the intake I took the coils and plugs out and put my shop lights above the valve cover to generate a little heat, maybe make a lil water evap from the cylinders. I live in a pretty arid climate, IE all the water that fell onto my garage floor was gone in 24 hours. Prolly wishful thinking but whatever.
My plan next is to put everything back together when it's all dry, pour a lil oil down into the cylinders, and crank it while the spark plugs are out. Hopefully any residual water will shoot out, along with the oil/gas, and I can go back to enjoying my life.
Also, the intake is hot. I'm thinking any water that made it past the intercooler would've been steam/vapor and I shouldn't need to remove that? Also it seems like it's in a conformation that would force any residual water to drain either into the cylinders or back into the intercooler, so I really don't see any gains by removing and cleaning it
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I bought my son a 2005 GTI MkIV (great dad right). On the drive home it threw a light the code was P4011 secondary air no prob found a hose off and issue solved. The car had 66k so I made him leave it at home until the timing belt was changed (read about alot of failures between 60 and 80k). Everything was great for 2 weeks last Thursday the EPC light came on and he got it home in limp mode. I pulled the following codes P0221 and P2637.
Am I looking for a short? I have read that it has been the following.
Brake light switch
Gas pedal
MAF
Intake manifold...
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